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Thread: Bi-wiring SDA's

  1. #1

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    Default Bi-wiring SDA's

    Interested in hearing the experience of those who do it and like it, or have done it and gone back to jumpers. What it your associated equipment - pre, amp, speaker cables.

    I'll start the ball here - I'm bi-wiring and am getting such good results I haven't had the curiosity to try jumpers instead. I'm using the VH Audio recipe for braided Cat 5, using a 54 pair braid (27 wired each to + and -) on the lows and a 18 pair braid on the highs, using Belden teflon cat 5 wire.
    "Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills, polyswitches removed, Lg Solen inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips installed on back wall behind MW's & Tweeters, interior of cabinets sealed, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer

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    I meant to post a 9 pair braid on the highs. The awg is 9 on the lows and 15 on the highs.
    "Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills, polyswitches removed, Lg Solen inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips installed on back wall behind MW's & Tweeters, interior of cabinets sealed, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer

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    Come on, no one has compared bi-wiring to using jumpers on your SDA's

    Fess up - let's hear what your experience was!
    "Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills, polyswitches removed, Lg Solen inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips installed on back wall behind MW's & Tweeters, interior of cabinets sealed, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer

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    I prefer bi-wire simply because it doesn't use the jumpers, just a single terminated length of speaker cable for simplicity.

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    I bi-amp my SDA-SRS for my HT. I don't know much about the SDA's yet and mine have been up-graded with new tweeters and crossovers. I tried them with my HCA 2200 in 2 channel with jumpersnot bi-wired and they were great but now they are in my HT and I use 2 channels of my XPA-5 for each speaker. I am using Signal Cable Classics for the hook-ups and I am satisfied. I'm not sure I (just me) can appreciate all of the little differences in a high end amp for home theater use as my attention is so divided between audio and visual. I (just me) think that if the speaker has the capability for bi-amping and you have the amps then you should so so. I have tried bi-wiring with my smaller SDA-A1's and RTIA9;s but returned to jumpers and MIT hook-ups for 2 channel. I think generally you are better off with a high grade speaker wire and high grade jumper if you cannot bi-amp. I am un-familiar with your home made speaker wire configuration but my (just me) thoughts are...If you can afford it go with the good stuff for the hook-ups.
    Main Family Room: Sony 46 LCD, Sony Blue Ray, Sony DVD/VCR combo,Onkyo TXNR 708, Parasound 5250,
    Polk SDS-SRS with mods, CSI 5 center + Klipsch SC2, Polk RT2000P rears, Klipsch KG 1.5's sides, Polk Micro Pro 1000, Polk Micro Pro 2000, Polk SW505, Belkin PF60, Signal Cable Classics,Monster IC's, 2 15 amp circuits & 1 20 amp circuit.

    Living Room: Belkin PF60, Parasound HCA2200, MIT ProlineEXP balanced IC's,Emotiva XDA-1 DAC/Pre,Emotiva ERC2 transport,MIT AVT2, Polk LSI 9's.

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    Quote Originally Posted by michael1947 View Post
    I bi-amp my SDA-SRS for my HT. I don't know much about the SDA's yet and mine have been up-graded with new tweeters and crossovers. I tried them with my HCA 2200 in 2 channel with jumpersnot bi-wired and they were great but now they are in my HT and I use 2 channels of my XPA-5 for each speaker. I am using Signal Cable Classics for the hook-ups and I am satisfied. I'm not sure I (just me) can appreciate all of the little differences in a high end amp for home theater use as my attention is so divided between audio and visual. I (just me) think that if the speaker has the capability for bi-amping and you have the amps then you should so so. I have tried bi-wiring with my smaller SDA-A1's and RTIA9;s but returned to jumpers and MIT hook-ups for 2 channel. I think generally you are better off with a high grade speaker wire and high grade jumper if you cannot bi-amp. I am un-familiar with your home made speaker wire configuration but my (just me) thoughts are...If you can afford it go with the good stuff for the hook-ups.
    The geometry of this cable is what makes it special: it's a litz design (individually insulated wires) with all wires weaving from the outside to the inside of the cable continuously. This makes for a low inductance, high capacitance cable. From what I understand you want low inductance in a speaker cable, and low capacitance in IC's.

    It has a very clean, open sound with great imaging. Smooth top to bottom with no particular emphasis on any part of the audio spectrum. The problem is it's very labor intensive to make. I'm thinking about making the same design but out of higher grade wire (teflon OCC or teflon silver plate mil spec copper), but really don't want to do 4 wires if I can get away with just using a jumper.

    Bi-wiring is expensive
    "Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills, polyswitches removed, Lg Solen inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips installed on back wall behind MW's & Tweeters, interior of cabinets sealed, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer

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