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  1. #61

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    I'll answer for Tony, yes.
    'Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end."

  2. #62

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    Quote Originally Posted by quadzilla View Post
    I just checked, and that's a really good idea. Makes everything fit perfectly. Thanks!
    Well that's good! I was getting worried that I bought some without the ability to fit them on Tony's boards! Please keep the photos and description of how it's going coming.

    Greg
    Taken from a recent Audioholics reply regarding "Club Polk" and Polk speakers:

    "I'm yet to hear a Polk speaker that merits more than a sentence and 60 seconds discussion."

    "Green leaves reveal the heart spoken Khatru"- Jon Anderson

    "Have A Little Faith! And Everything You'll Face, Will Jump From Out Right On Into Place! Yeah! Take A Little Time! And Everything You'll Find, Will Move From Gloom Right On Into Shine!"- Arthur Lee

  3. #63

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    Quote Originally Posted by F1nut View Post
    I'll answer for Tony, yes.
    Thanks, also very good to know. I was going to put some foam tape under the resistors to damp them. But now I guess I'll be mounting them from the top and figuring out a way to anchor the end sticking up so they don't move around.
    Are you part of the dirty digital peasants or a member of the great Analog Master Race?

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  4. #64

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    One other question.... Looking at the binding post cup, can anyone think of a downside to making a flat one out of .220 acrylic? Would that be stiff enough? The only thing I can think of is that it might flex and create a resonance. But I've always really hated the recessed binding posts since I use spades.
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  5. #65

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    Quote Originally Posted by quadzilla View Post
    Thanks, also very good to know. I was going to put some foam tape under the resistors to damp them. But now I guess I'll be mounting them from the top and figuring out a way to anchor the end sticking up so they don't move around.
    Top or bottom mounting won't matter as long as you leave air space around them.

    Looking at the binding post cup, can anyone think of a downside to making a flat one out of .220 acrylic? Would that be stiff enough?
    Good question and I'm not sure about the acrylic. Delrin or aluminum would be good choices.
    'Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end."

  6. #66

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    Quote Originally Posted by F1nut View Post
    Top or bottom mounting won't matter as long as you leave air space around them.



    Good question and I'm not sure about the acrylic. Delrin or aluminum would be good choices.
    Hummmm...Like I need another project

  7. #67

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    I'm mounting them from the top because I'm putting an acrylic layer under the xover boards, with 1/2" stand-offs, so I can also anchor the corners. I'm making it out of the thickest acrylic sheets I could find locally, which is .220" thick. I wondering if that would also be stiff enough for a binding post plate.

    Where can you get delrin sheets, typically?
    Are you part of the dirty digital peasants or a member of the great Analog Master Race?

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  8. #68

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    Hmmm, can you post pics of the acrylic layer under the crossover boards? I'd be interested in seeing how it works out.

    Greg
    Taken from a recent Audioholics reply regarding "Club Polk" and Polk speakers:

    "I'm yet to hear a Polk speaker that merits more than a sentence and 60 seconds discussion."

    "Green leaves reveal the heart spoken Khatru"- Jon Anderson

    "Have A Little Faith! And Everything You'll Face, Will Jump From Out Right On Into Place! Yeah! Take A Little Time! And Everything You'll Find, Will Move From Gloom Right On Into Shine!"- Arthur Lee

  9. #69

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    Quote Originally Posted by quadzilla View Post
    Thanks, also very good to know. I was going to put some foam tape under the resistors to damp them. But now I guess I'll be mounting them from the top and figuring out a way to anchor the end sticking up so they don't move around.
    You could use some of that acrylic to make stands for them, something like this, I would use three for each resister one for each end and one in the middle. Hot glue to the board and use just enough to get the job done on the resistors.

    Name:  stand.jpg
Views: 173
Size:  20.1 KB

    Excuse my quicky drawing.

    Quote Originally Posted by quadzilla View Post
    One other question.... Looking at the binding post cup, can anyone think of a downside to making a flat one out of .220 acrylic? Would that be stiff enough? The only thing I can think of is that it might flex and create a resonance. But I've always really hated the recessed binding posts since I use spades.
    I don't know about the acrylic and I wouldn't use anything conductive. This is one idea I'm thinking about doing on my CRS+'s is plugging the hole with the right thickness MDF and then drilling holes for the binding posts below and to the side of the original hole.
    Last edited by gimpod; 12-16-2011 at 02:06 PM.

  10. #70

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    I looked up the tensile strength of delrin and acrylic. Delrin is 11,000 psi for .250 thick sheet, and acrylic is 10,000 psi .236 thick sheet. The acrylic also has a surface resistivity of 1.9 x 10e15 ohm-cm. I think the acrylic will be fine. The hardest part will probably be cutting to circles that don't look like ass. Or I might just do squares.
    Are you part of the dirty digital peasants or a member of the great Analog Master Race?

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  11. #71

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    I would contact Duelund about the need for an air gap between the board and resistors, I believe it may not be needed.
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche

  12. #72

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    Quad,

    Let me see how much Delrin or any other plastics I might have at the shop tomorrow, it wouldn't take much to cut a couple of circles for you.

    If I don't have anything that will work I will call our vender and see if he has a loose piece laying around on the cheap. You kinda have me thinking here..

  13. #73

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    Wow Larry, that's great! Thanks very much. If you can do that, I can drill it out for the binding posts and SDA IC holes. I thinking with a flat plate, there's no reason to have the two top posts so far apart. I'd move the IC connector further down, then put the top posts centered and near the top, with the bottom posts maybe a bit closer to the bottom. Probably have to pull the IC to tighten/loosen the binding posts, but I think that'd be a better design than what Polk did. And I could fit my spades on without having to bend the cable at a right angle coming off the posts.
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  14. #74

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    Yep not having the top post so far apart is what I was thinking as well, I never really cared for the dish cup anyway. I might just router the back so the delrin is at least flush with the cabinet though. Not looking forward to pulling my speakers out from where and how I have them setup but I don't have to do it right away, hell I was one of the last people here to put in tweeter brackets in my speakers and I made them. LOL!!!

  15. #75

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    Quad just remember I will do it if I have something in the shop or I can get a piece of drop from our vender on the cheap to avoid ordering a sheet..

  16. #76

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    It's still effing nice of you. I also found a place that I could order a 12x12 .250 sheet for 25 bucks. And heck, considering how much I'm into this, what's another 25 bucks?
    Are you part of the dirty digital peasants or a member of the great Analog Master Race?

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  17. #77

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    Got the jumpers installed. Took a couple of hours because I was also learning to prep litz wire for soldering. Yes, I made jumpers out of litz wire.
    Are you part of the dirty digital peasants or a member of the great Analog Master Race?

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  18. #78

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    Got the acrylic plates cut. Now to start soldering. Still have to find some 1/2" stand offs though. Even 1/4" will do since I'm mounting everything from the front.

    Also, acrylic is a bitch to cut without the right tools. What I wouldn't give for a water jet right now.
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  19. #79

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    Those should work nicely quad. Where did you source the acrylic from? And, how did you cut it?

    Greg
    Taken from a recent Audioholics reply regarding "Club Polk" and Polk speakers:

    "I'm yet to hear a Polk speaker that merits more than a sentence and 60 seconds discussion."

    "Green leaves reveal the heart spoken Khatru"- Jon Anderson

    "Have A Little Faith! And Everything You'll Face, Will Jump From Out Right On Into Place! Yeah! Take A Little Time! And Everything You'll Find, Will Move From Gloom Right On Into Shine!"- Arthur Lee

  20. #80

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    Quote Originally Posted by Face View Post
    I would contact Duelund about the need for an air gap between the board and resistors, I believe it may not be needed.
    I asked Duelund and was told there should be "a little" bit of a gap between the board and resistor.

    Greg
    Taken from a recent Audioholics reply regarding "Club Polk" and Polk speakers:

    "I'm yet to hear a Polk speaker that merits more than a sentence and 60 seconds discussion."

    "Green leaves reveal the heart spoken Khatru"- Jon Anderson

    "Have A Little Faith! And Everything You'll Face, Will Jump From Out Right On Into Place! Yeah! Take A Little Time! And Everything You'll Find, Will Move From Gloom Right On Into Shine!"- Arthur Lee

  21. #81

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    That's what I did on my CRS+'s for a backing board. Just order your stand offs, nuts and screws from Mouser Electronics.

  22. #82

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    A belt sander does wonders on crooked edges.

  23. #83

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    Quote Originally Posted by headrott View Post
    Those should work nicely quad. Where did you source the acrylic from? And, how did you cut it?

    Greg
    Home Depot. Dremel to cut.

    Quote Originally Posted by headrott View Post
    I asked Duelund and was told there should be "a little" bit of a gap between the board and resistor.

    Greg
    Cool that should work with what I decided to do. I'm going to put two very small pieces of foam tape down and use a cable tie to secure them.
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  24. #84

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    Quote Originally Posted by Toolfan66 View Post
    That's what I did on my CRS+'s for a backing board. Just order your stand offs, nuts and screws from Mouser Electronics.
    Found the stand offs I need at Fry's. Already have bolts, nuts, etc.

    Not that worried about how it looks since no one will see them. Just a PITA to cut.

    Got started on the soldering too. All the caps are in place. Now I'm going to work out the final resistor placement.
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  25. #85

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    Quote Originally Posted by quadzilla View Post
    Home Depot. Dremel to cut.
    I ended up ordering 4 pre-cut (to size) pieces from a place called Professional Plastics. Located in California, they should get here this week sometime.


    Quote Originally Posted by quadzilla View Post
    Cool that should work with what I decided to do. I'm going to put two very small pieces of foam tape down and use a cable tie to secure them.
    Are you putting the foam tape on the caps and laying the resitors across them?

    Greg
    Taken from a recent Audioholics reply regarding "Club Polk" and Polk speakers:

    "I'm yet to hear a Polk speaker that merits more than a sentence and 60 seconds discussion."

    "Green leaves reveal the heart spoken Khatru"- Jon Anderson

    "Have A Little Faith! And Everything You'll Face, Will Jump From Out Right On Into Place! Yeah! Take A Little Time! And Everything You'll Find, Will Move From Gloom Right On Into Shine!"- Arthur Lee

  26. #86

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    I'll have a pic later when I get it finalized.
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  27. #87

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    Quote Originally Posted by quadzilla View Post
    I'm going to put two very small pieces of foam tape down and use a cable tie to secure them.
    quadzilla - I wouldn't do that if I was you, Foam tape is fine just use the double sided sticky stuff as long as you use just enough to get the job done. Zip ties with those resistors are a bad idea, you need to remember there graphite/carbon and break really easy.

  28. #88

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    Quote Originally Posted by gimpod View Post
    quadzilla - I wouldn't do that if I was you, Foam tape is fine just use the double sided sticky stuff as long as you use just enough to get the job done. Zip ties with those resistors are a bad idea, you need to remember there graphite/carbon and break really easy.
    That's true, except whatever they make the casing out of is impervious to being stuck to by foam tape. The tie won't be tight, or even very close to it. Just enough to keep the resistors from moving around. This is a pic of the arrangement I came up with.
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  29. #89

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    No offense but I see 1 maybe 2 problems.

    1. The resistor your using in place of the polyswitch. It's ending up right where the 0.3mH inductor needs to go (solder holes N & J) you may also have to move that 5.8uF cap up a bit for the same reason.

    2. That 16uF cap may need to move a little to the right to make room for L5. It's kinda hard to see in your picture.

    I think your best bet is to mount those resistors on the bottom side of the board, ether way your going to have to extend the leads on those resistors to make them fit, that way it'll give you more room to move things around a bit. don't forget you've still have to fit those little inductors in there.

  30. #90

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    Yeah, it's not truly final. And that's why I left the leads on the caps and haven't tied them down yet. I agree, things will almost certainly have to move a bit more before I get to the final layout. It's going to be hard to move the 5.8 though because there are jumpers on both sides of it more or less forcing it to be where it is, and that kind of limits the options of where to put that cap.
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