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Thread: Comp's MM6501

  1. #1

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    Default Comp's MM6501

    Ok, so has anyone had any experiance with these comp's. I am really wanting to know if these will have a more mid bass than the DB series ones that I have now. If any one has any input on this that would be nice, also if anyone has any other suggestions for another brand that would have good mid bass, but clarity as well. I would greatly appreciate some feed back.


    Thanks.

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    mm6501 is best known for its mid bass..with sufficient power.
    im installing mine tomororw, will let u know
    Front: Polk RTi6
    Center: Polk CSIa4
    Rear: Polk M10
    Receiver: AVR Denon 789
    HTPC Soundcard: Emu-0404 USB for 2.1, Creative X-Fi Platinum for 5.1 (SPDIF out to AVR)
    Headset: Grado RS2 + Grado RA1 amp
    Mic: Neumann KMS605
    TV: Toshiba Regza 52' 120Hz

    Car Audio
    2002 MB C240 Sedan
    MM6501 components
    MM840 sub
    MB Quart Onyx 4.60 (1/2 to components, 3/4 bridged to sub)
    Pioneer 8200BT HU

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    Good deal. Thanks. Yeah please let me know what you think, and also how you set them up as well. I can tell you now how I plan on setting mine up. I plan on having 4 comps one set in the front, and one set in the back. I know some people may say that investing money on a really high end front speakers will be fine. However my truck's back doors open where the speakers are facing toward the front of the truck, and I do like to open them up when at parties, BBQ's ect so that is why I am doing all four.

    Thanks

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    exact same speakers going into my ride in a few weeks :). DBs are great bang for the buck but these new MMs really take things up quite a few notches across the board :)

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    Quote Originally Posted by KaosTsoc View Post
    Good deal. Thanks. Yeah please let me know what you think, and also how you set them up as well. I can tell you now how I plan on setting mine up. I plan on having 4 comps one set in the front, and one set in the back. I know some people may say that investing money on a really high end front speakers will be fine. However my truck's back doors open where the speakers are facing toward the front of the truck, and I do like to open them up when at parties, BBQ's ect so that is why I am doing all four.

    Thanks
    Are you planning on running passive or active?

    Have you tried one comp in the front yet? I know you're chasing spl with a bit of sq in mind, but see if 1 comp is able to keep up with your subs first. If the mids can't keep up, throw in an extra mid-woofer in the front door. 1 pair of tweets is plenty loud and will keep up with dual-triple 6.5 woofer setups.

    Also, have you deaden your car yet?

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    You know somehthing chu, I am still pretty new to this whole car audio thing, so I really do not know what the difference is between Active, and or Passive is. So, if you have some more info on this so that I can understand a little more that would be great.

    So, could you also please tell me why most people seem to only run one set of comp's as opposed to two?

    As far as sound deading is concerned, I am currently working on that now. I have the front doors done with one layer of dynamat extreme, and the roof so far. Money is not flowing the way I planed right now, but hey that is how life is sometimes. Plan on doing the whole cab, and putting a least two layer's on the front doors, rear doors, roof, and floor.

    As for myself I kinda like the highs to be little brighter than most people like, because most of the music I listen to is little "dirtier" than what most people listen to. Not sure If I have stated this befor, but I listen to heavy metal, and had hitting rap/hip hop, (dont really listen to anything in between) so most of the recordings are just plain dirty sometimes, but not all the time. Hence why I was looking at doing two sets of comps.

    Thank you for your input.... keep them coming, and keep dropping this knowledge on me like a ton of brick.
    Last edited by KaosTsoc; 07-30-2010 at 10:27 AM.

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    If your planning to put speakers in the back, save some moolah and go with the coax (MM651) for the back set.

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    Topper,
    Why should I go with coax in the back? The reason I ask is I thought that because, the pole piece is in the middle, and goes through the woofer that I would lose mid bass. I have been told that in order to get more bass out of a speaker. The more cone area you have the more air it moves, hence more bass. So, with that said would I not lose out on that with a coax?

    Thanks for your input keep it coming.

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    4 speakers in front will only give u around +3db in SPL...ud be better end up with a good amp and just turn the volume up..
    and for mid bass, mm651 coaxial is good enough for the back
    Last edited by SivaNevets; 07-30-2010 at 01:41 PM.
    Front: Polk RTi6
    Center: Polk CSIa4
    Rear: Polk M10
    Receiver: AVR Denon 789
    HTPC Soundcard: Emu-0404 USB for 2.1, Creative X-Fi Platinum for 5.1 (SPDIF out to AVR)
    Headset: Grado RS2 + Grado RA1 amp
    Mic: Neumann KMS605
    TV: Toshiba Regza 52' 120Hz

    Car Audio
    2002 MB C240 Sedan
    MM6501 components
    MM840 sub
    MB Quart Onyx 4.60 (1/2 to components, 3/4 bridged to sub)
    Pioneer 8200BT HU

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    I plan on putting just two in the front, and two in the back. You know though I think I have to agree with you, and topper, that the coax in the back would be just fine. Like I said I like to open the back door's (which open in a suicide door fashion), and play my music that way. So, the coax in the back would take care of that.

    However now that I think of it. Could I not set up the comp in the back to be set up like a coax so, that I do not have the pole piece in the middle of the woofer?

    Thanks.

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    Quote Originally Posted by KaosTsoc View Post
    You know somehthing chu, I am still pretty new to this whole car audio thing, so I really do not know what the difference is between Active, and or Passive is. So, if you have some more info on this so that I can understand a little more that would be great.
    Active crossover allows you to have much more freedom and control in tuning your components: tweets, horns, mids, and etc to your specification as oppose to a passive crossover which the crossover frequency response per component is pre-determine and set by the manufacturer. Also, passive is generally less efficient with power and generally requires twice the power to sound as "loud" as active counterparts.

    Quote Originally Posted by KaosTsoc View Post
    So, could you also please tell me why most people seem to only run one set of comp's as opposed to two?
    Phasing and cancelation issues. Let's put it this way, you don't want to hear your rears a half a second late compare to your fronts, it disrupt the harmony and makes you go wtf LAG? But this can be remedy with time alignment and time. MS-8 does wonders.

    Quote Originally Posted by KaosTsoc View Post
    As far as sound deading is concerned, I am currently working on that now. I have the front doors done with one layer of dynamat extreme, and the roof so far. Money is not flowing the way I planed right now, but hey that is how life is sometimes. Plan on doing the whole cab, and putting a least two layer's on the front doors, rear doors, roof, and floor.
    That is good to hear. But you don't really need to do a second layer only on trouble spots like wheel well and firewall.

    You should look into secondskin (ss) or sound deadener showdown (sds) for dampening material. Personally, I'm fan of ss products, especially their pro line. I recently deaden my entire tundra with sludge, damp pro, luxury liner pro, and overkill pro and I only need to do it once, no need for a second layer except for sludge, but that is a given lol. And ss do give discount codes and freebies (once in a blue) on their product like once a month.

    Quote Originally Posted by KaosTsoc View Post
    As for myself I kinda like the highs to be little brighter than most people like, because most of the music I listen to is little "dirtier" than what most people listen to. Not sure If I have stated this befor, but I listen to heavy metal, and had hitting rap/hip hop, (dont really listen to anything in between) so most of the recordings are just plain dirty sometimes, but not all the time. Hence why I was looking at doing two sets of comps.
    That can easily be remedy by going active hehe ;).

    I'm still unsure how you're powering all these components and subs. Have you even upgraded your ground and battery yet? I suggest looking into 0 gauge wiring, and die hard platinum batteries. I wouldn't upgrade the alternator yet depending on: how much current your amp pulls, efficiency of your amp, and the peaks of your music.

    Quote Originally Posted by KaosTsoc View Post
    Thank you for your input.... keep them coming, and keep dropping this knowledge on me like a ton of brick.
    I'm still a novice myself, but we all have to start somewhere right?

    Edit: And don't use all your tweets if you're planning on running all 4 comps, those high will kill you literally.
    Last edited by chu; 07-30-2010 at 03:25 PM.

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    Chu.... Wow..... Ok..... where to start as a reply......uh lol.....

    Ok, so how would I make them active?

    As for sound deading I will look into those companies to see if they are pretty much the same as dynamat which I suspect that they are. Do you know if their stuff can handle high heat, as I live just out side of Dallas, Tx and, it gets HOT over here.

    As for the big three upgrade. I have not done this yet, but it is going to be part of the plan FOR SURE. I also plan on upgrading my alternator because, I suspect that lets just say for four 6 1/2, and the subs I am probably looking at anywhere between 1,500-2,000 watts rms. That is more than likley on the high end of things, but I like to over plan a little to cover all base's. Hell who know's I may not like my next set up, and decide to go bigger.

    As for power. I plan on having a D class amp to power the subs only, and get a four channel class a/b amp for the 6 1/2's. Now this leads into another question that I posted ealier. Would I be ok to put the comp's in the front, and coax in the back. Or could I do comp's in the front, and comp's in the back, and set up the tweeter in the middle like a coax set up?

    Thanks.

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    Quote Originally Posted by KaosTsoc View Post
    Chu.... Wow..... Ok..... where to start as a reply......uh lol.....

    Ok, so how would I make them active?
    Using an external sound processor such as an bit one or ms-8 or you can use an "active" headunit like the p-880 or alpine 9887. Also you must power each component with its own channel.

    Quote Originally Posted by KaosTsoc View Post
    As for sound deading I will look into those companies to see if they are pretty much the same as dynamat which I suspect that they are. Do you know if their stuff can handle high heat, as I live just out side of Dallas, Tx and, it gets HOT over here.
    Second skin pro line imo are better than dynmat extreme line in everyway, cost less, and looks great. SS products holds up in heat very well, and imo is the best stuff you can purchase. Also avoid any material that is asphalt based.

    Quote Originally Posted by KaosTsoc View Post
    As for the big three upgrade. I have not done this yet, but it is going to be part of the plan FOR SURE. I also plan on upgrading my alternator because, I suspect that lets just say for four 6 1/2, and the subs I am probably looking at anywhere between 1,500-2,000 watts rms. That is more than likley on the high end of things, but I like to over plan a little to cover all base's. Hell who know's I may not like my next set up, and decide to go bigger.
    Truthfully, even if you have 2000 watt system, its hard to average 2000 watt all the time. And you have a 2006 tacoma trd right? Tbh, its hard for me to justify the alternator upgrade knowing that your stock alt pulls 130 amps. If you do upgrade your alternator, more power to you no pun intended.

    Quote Originally Posted by KaosTsoc View Post
    As for power. I plan on having a D class amp to power the subs only, and get a four channel class a/b amp for the 6 1/2's. Now this leads into another question that I posted ealier. Would I be ok to put the comp's in the front, and coax in the back. Or could I do comp's in the front, and comp's in the back, and set up the tweeter in the middle like a coax set up?.
    Well, you need at least 2 4 channel amps if you're planning on running all 4 momo passively. If you're going active you need 16 channels, not including subs.

    Having comps or coaxials in the back is really up to you. I wouldn't add a coaxials in the back since you already have a sub there. And add to that you wouldn't be able to hear it very well.

    I still will like to suggest you to listen to your comps in the front for at least a week and see how you will like your car without rear speakers

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    The truck is a 2006 Tacoma Prerunner access cab 2 wheel drive, 2.4L 4 cyclinder engine, If I am not mistaken the current stock alt produces only like 80 amps. The truck does not have power windows, or locks, and is a standard trans as well.

    Ok. Well I have a Clarion CZ 500 head unit, do you now if this is an active head unit. I do know that I can adjust the trebel freq, mid freq, bass freq, along with a seperat opteration for the sub controll, along with a LPF on the head unit as well.

    So, lets say that my head unit is active so, would I need a sound processor then? Also if the head unit is active would I be able to get away with using only a 4 channel amp, or would I still need have 16 channels?

    Sure I will try just comps in the front once I get them.

    Thanks.

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    Quote Originally Posted by KaosTsoc View Post
    The truck is a 2006 Tacoma Prerunner access cab 2 wheel drive, 2.4L 4 cyclinder engine, If I am not mistaken the current stock alt produces only like 80 amps. The truck does not have power windows, or locks, and is a standard trans as well.
    Yeah, now I can justify an alternator upgrade.

    Quote Originally Posted by KaosTsoc View Post
    Ok. Well I have a Clarion CZ 500 head unit, do you now if this is an active head unit. I do know that I can adjust the trebel freq, mid freq, bass freq, along with a seperat opteration for the sub controll, along with a LPF on the head unit as well.
    Clarion Cz 500 is not an active head unit


    Quote Originally Posted by KaosTsoc View Post
    So, lets say that my head unit is active so, would I need a sound processor then? Also if the head unit is active would I be able to get away with using only a 4 channel amp, or would I still need have 16 channels?
    You wouldn't need a sound processor, but it would be sweet if you did.

    If you're planning on running 1 set of your comps then yes, you could get away with a 4 channel amp. If not, then the answer is no.

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    Yeah. I plan on upgrading the alt to like a 140 amp at least.

    Yeah I think I know a little more on what you mean by an "active" head unit. It would need to have a 24 bit D/A equil. Yeah I bought the CZ500 cuz of the bluetooth, but did not pay attention to that. Man... Here I again I have to buy another head unit that has 24 bit D/A e.q. That is now 3 head units that I have in three years. That sucks, oh well I will change the head unit after I sell the other two at least, then hang onto the CZ500, and try to sell it. MAN.....

    Ok. So, let me put this out there. If I planned on running lets say comps in the front, and coax in the back, would I be ok with a four channel amp.

    So, basically what you are saying is that I would have a dedicated amp for the tweets only, and an amp for 6 1/2 woofers by them selfs? So, would that not be only 8 channels then. 4 channels for the tweets only, and 4 channels for the 6 1/2 woofers??

    Thanks.

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    Quote Originally Posted by KaosTsoc View Post
    Yeah. I plan on upgrading the alt to like a 140 amp at least.
    When you do decide to upgrade your alt look into: DC power, excessive amperage, or even your local junk yard.

    Quote Originally Posted by KaosTsoc View Post
    Yeah I think I know a little more on what you mean by an "active" head unit. It would need to have a 24 bit D/A equil. Yeah I bought the CZ500 cuz of the bluetooth, but did not pay attention to that. Man... Here I again I have to buy another head unit that has 24 bit D/A e.q. That is now 3 head units that I have in three years. That sucks, oh well I will change the head unit after I sell the other two at least, then hang onto the CZ500, and try to sell it. MAN.....
    Just hold on to your headunit and buy a sound processor like the bit one or ms-8. If you want, I can provide a code for you through amazon where you can snag a ms-8 for 470 shipped. Let me know if you want it.

    Quote Originally Posted by KaosTsoc View Post
    Ok. So, let me put this out there. If I planned on running lets say comps in the front, and coax in the back, would I be ok with a four channel amp.
    Only if you're running them passively and only if you're running one set of comps and one set of coaxials.

    Quote Originally Posted by KaosTsoc View Post
    So, basically what you are saying is that I would have a dedicated amp for the tweets only, and an amp for 6 1/2 woofers by them selfs? So, would that not be only 8 channels then. 4 channels for the tweets only, and 4 channels for the 6 1/2 woofers??
    How is that not 8 channels? 4 channel + 4 channel = 8 channels. But this will only fit 2 of the comps.

    You don't need to have a dedicated amp for tweets or mids, its perfectly fine running 1 set of comps off the same 4 channel. You should be wary of the gains.

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    Ok. So, if I wanted to do a processor like the lets say the MS-8 what is the best way to wire it up (I plan on using an amp for power as well.)? I looked at the manuel from JBL, but to be honest I really did not understand. If you could please help me out here that would be awsome.

    Now, lets say I decided to get a better head unit that has at least a 24 bit D/A then I would not need the processor?? and ony a four channel amp for all four speakers??? I know I may not be getting this, and I am sorry, but this all very new to me, and I thought I had it understood, but it is apparent that I do not.

    As a side note, any pic's or website links that have pic's would be great. I am more a visual learner.


    Thanks.

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    Quote Originally Posted by KaosTsoc View Post
    Ok. So, if I wanted to do a processor like the lets say the MS-8 what is the best way to wire it up (I plan on using an amp for power as well.)? I looked at the manuel from JBL, but to be honest I really did not understand. If you could please help me out here that would be awsome.

    As a side note, any pic's or website links that have pic's would be great. I am more a visual learner.
    I'll post up pics with wiring and explanation on my install when my new comps arrive.

    Quote Originally Posted by KaosTsoc View Post
    Now, lets say I decided to get a better head unit that has at least a 24 bit D/A then I would not need the processor?? and ony a four channel amp for all four speakers??? I know I may not be getting this, and I am sorry, but this all very new to me, and I thought I had it understood, but it is apparent that I do not.
    Welcome to car audio lol! You will never really understand everything, because there are different ways to look at a problem and a different types of solutions for said problem hehe.

    You wouldn't need a processor if you have an active headunit. Also, I find spending money on an active headunit is wasteful when ms-8 can be had for roughly $500 and will do a better job than a headunit.

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    Ok. Cool. Thank you so very much. So, are you going to use the MS-8 or the One bit?


    Yeah tell me about it. I never gave my current system this much thought, basically due to budget, and just wanting to have a system asap. My current set up is good, not all that clear, but does the job for now.

    Well I can justify buying the head unit as apposed to the processor just due to price more than anything. Not that I am going that way at the moment, and like I said this is a project for me, that I can suspec will take at least a year, and no more that 3 years to get everything, and installed.

    Not to get to far ahead of my self, but how to does Bi amping comps fit into the equation? I mean I did some reading on it, and kinda understand, but do not know how it would fit in to this situation. So, lets say I run four comps, two in the front, and two in the back, and bi amp them, would I still need two 4 channel amps, and then the processor? Just trying to rap my head around this part now Bi-amping that is..

    Thanks.

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    Quote Originally Posted by KaosTsoc View Post
    Ok. Cool. Thank you so very much. So, are you going to use the MS-8 or the One bit?
    ms-8

    Quote Originally Posted by KaosTsoc View Post
    Yeah tell me about it. I never gave my current system this much thought, basically due to budget, and just wanting to have a system asap. My current set up is good, not all that clear, but does the job for now.
    You caught the bug hehe.

    Quote Originally Posted by KaosTsoc View Post
    Well I can justify buying the head unit as apposed to the processor just due to price more than anything. Not that I am going that way at the moment, and like I said this is a project for me, that I can suspec will take at least a year, and no more that 3 years to get everything, and installed.
    That's a great way of looking at your build, you shouldn't rush anything and you will have more time to re-evaluate the products you plan on purchasing down the line.

    Quote Originally Posted by KaosTsoc View Post
    Not to get to far ahead of my self, but how to does Bi amping comps fit into the equation? I mean I did some reading on it, and kinda understand, but do not know how it would fit in to this situation. So, lets say I run four comps, two in the front, and two in the back, and bi amp them, would I still need two 4 channel amps, and then the processor? Just trying to rap my head around this part now Bi-amping that is..
    I'm not great at explaining things, but I'll try. Bi-amping is more for active setups than anything else. Although, you can still benefit from the extra power it supplies to the woofers (depending on amp). But you will need some sort of processor, be it a external or a headunit. You "could" get away with just using your amp hpf, but its not recommended.

    The active crossover filter out certain frequency response for each of the components. You will want to use hpf for both mid-woofers and tweeters. And most people will want to set the mid-woofer down to the lowest frequency response range that the woofers can play, same with the tweets.

    Ok now lets talk about your setup. If you will run 4 polks comp sets in your truck. Each component set comes with 2 mid woofers and 2 tweets. In your case, you will have 8 mid woofers and 8 tweets total. Each mid-woofer and tweeter will need its own amp channel, so you're looking at 16 channels total that would equate to 4 4channel amps.

    But if you were to do a passive setup, and use the passive crossover that came with your polk set. You will need only 2 4 channel amps. You will wire the passive crossover to 1 amp channel, and you would wire 1 woofer and 1 tweeter to 1 passive crossover.

    Since you're planning on running 2 component sets in the back, I would do this instead:
    Bi-amp both the front comps and run the 2 rear comps passively.

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    Wow. I looked at the MS-8 a little more in detail, and looked at how it works, and all I can say is wow. That thing is amazing but, I am thinking that this would be way more complicated for me than what I was wanting to get into. So, I may just go passive all the way for now, and if I think I need to add the processor I will. Really I am thinking that I might have bit off more than I can chew. Thank God I have not bought anything, and only making suggestions, and throwing some ideas around.

    I mean running two set of comp's would be nice, but now that I doing alot of research I am thinking of doing one set of comps in the front, and maybe doing coax in the back just for filler, and also for when I open the back doors to listen to the music while I fish, bbq etc.

    So if I bi amp the front comps then all I would need is one 4 channel amp for that, and one 2 channel for the back correct? So basically would need a 6 channel amp??

    Thanks.

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    Quote Originally Posted by KaosTsoc View Post
    I mean running two set of comp's would be nice, but now that I doing alot of research I am thinking of doing one set of comps in the front, and maybe doing coax in the back just for filler, and also for when I open the back doors to listen to the music while I fish, bbq etc.
    Truthfully, you can lose the back and focus on the fronts. When I go fishing, I just drop the windows down and my ch00ns still will blare like no other.

    Quote Originally Posted by KaosTsoc View Post
    So if I bi amp the front comps then all I would need is one 4 channel amp for that, and one 2 channel for the back correct? So basically would need a 6 channel amp??
    Yes that would suffice. I would look into 2 4 channel amps though if you can have it for cheaper or just a tad more. Why? You can bridge the mids can hit the mid-bass harder with more authority.

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    Save your money for now and go with a pair of comps up front. If you REALLY want the rears, later on you can spend the money. In a cabin that small, no filler is needed.

    As far as the alternator, I had an '07 Tacoma PreRunner (albeit a v6) and had no issues with about 1000 watts RMS feeding into my system off a stock alt. That install was so much fun compared to my camaro. I think it had a lot to do with the extra 18"-24" height from the floorboard.

    Some of your previous posts have rubbed me the wrong way and that is why I haven't spoken up yet. However, you seem sincere in your efforts so I will offer my help if needed. If you plan on doing this yourself, I have the brackets my dad and I cut for the doors that I could sell to you for a fair price. I could also give you some pointers on how and where to run the wires. I'll try to find my old posts with the install pictures to help. If I can't find it, ill post them up tomorrow.

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    Sorry about that. I am kinda of a straight forward person. So, sometimes my remarks are a little brash, and alot of people do not like but, hey I will always tell the truth, and give my honest answer, and thought.

    Cool deal. I greatly appreciate that much, and any help that you can offer would be nice.

    Could you also please check out my other thread that I posted. I would also like to get your thoughts as well. I know it is kind of a double post, but I added some other things, and thought's etc.

    http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=104602

    As for the alt, I have replace my battery to a optima red battery (I know it is not the battery that I really need, but will replace this one anyway with like a Kinetic HC2400 once I have everything), however I still notice that with my current set up I still get head light dimming. So, after some research, and digging around. I have come to the conclusion that I am drawing to much power, and my current alt can not keep up. So, I plan on upgrading the alt, and the battery as well to match the current draw so, that I can power everything correctly, and not put alot of stress on other parts of the engine.

    Thanks.
    Last edited by KaosTsoc; 08-03-2010 at 11:22 AM.

  26. #26

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    Chu,
    Sorry, but I did not get the:

    "I would look into 2 4 channel amps though if you can have it for cheaper or just a tad more. Why? You can bridge the mids can hit the mid-bass harder with more authority."

    Could you please elaborate a little more. Thanks.

    If I just focused on the fronts for now, which seems like a good idea, and good starting point all I would need is a single 4 channel amp?? That would also cover the bi amping part as well.

    Also I think I understand the passive, and active thing a little bette now. I looked at some stuff, and the product manuels, and I think I understand for the most part. Basically Passive is when you use the manufacturer's included crossover, and only a single amp to power everthing. And Active is where you do not use the manufacturer's included crossover, and hook all the speakers to the correct amps, and power then independently??

    Thanks.

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    Quote Originally Posted by KaosTsoc View Post
    Chu,
    Sorry, but I did not get the:

    "I would look into 2 4 channel amps though if you can have it for cheaper or just a tad more. Why? You can bridge the mids can hit the mid-bass harder with more authority."

    Could you please elaborate a little more. Thanks.
    I'm basically saying give your components more headroom (more power) if you can afford to do it.

    Quote Originally Posted by KaosTsoc View Post
    If I just focused on the fronts for now, which seems like a good idea, and good starting point all I would need is a single 4 channel amp?? That would also cover the bi amping part as well.
    Yes, but you still will need an external x-over so you won't destroy your tweets.

    Quote Originally Posted by KaosTsoc View Post
    Also I think I understand the passive, and active thing a little bette now. I looked at some stuff, and the product manuels, and I think I understand for the most part. Basically Passive is when you use the manufacturer's included crossover, and only a single amp to power everthing. And Active is where you do not use the manufacturer's included crossover, and hook all the speakers to the correct amps, and power then independently??
    Yes, but you will still need an external x-over if you're going active.

    Quote Originally Posted by KaosTsoc View Post
    As for the alt, I have replace my battery to a optima red battery (I know it is not the battery that I really need, but will replace this one anyway with like a Kinetic HC2400 once I have everything), however I still notice that with my current set up I still get head light dimming. So, after some research, and digging around. I have come to the conclusion that I am drawing to much power, and my current alt can not keep up. So, I plan on upgrading the alt, and the battery as well to match the current draw so, that I can power everything correctly, and not put a lot of stress on other parts of the engine.
    What type of grounds are you running?
    Last edited by chu; 08-03-2010 at 12:58 PM.

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    Not sure I get what you mean by "What type of grounds are you running". If you talking about the big three upgrade.. I have not done that as of yet. When I do upgrade the cable it will be nothing less than like 4 AWG, and no bigger than 1/0 AWG. I plan on doing all that upgrading when I get the new alt. Which at this time I hate to say it going to take a little while to get. They are pretty pricy, and I do not want to have my stock one rebuilt just in case the new HO burns out, or something, I'd like to have a back up. I am planning on going for a brand new alt personally just in case someone says to buy one a junk yard or something. That is just my preference sorry guys.

    Ok. So if I decide to go "Active" or bi-amped (which is more for "active" setup) I still would need a crossover to keep everything protected...??

    Now if I go passive then I do not need the crossover, and will be fine with just one 4 channel amp..??

    I know redundant, but just making sure I got this down.

    Man.... what alot to take in.......

    Thanks.

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    Also are there any other brands that are comparable to the MM's??


    Thanks.

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    Quote Originally Posted by KaosTsoc View Post
    Not sure I get what you mean by "What type of grounds are you running". If you talking about the big three upgrade.. I have not done that as of yet. When I do upgrade the cable it will be nothing less than like 4 AWG, and no bigger than 1/0 AWG. I plan on doing all that upgrading when I get the new alt. Which at this time I hate to say it going to take a little while to get. They are pretty pricy, and I do not want to have my stock one rebuilt just in case the new HO burns out, or something, I'd like to have a back up. I am planning on going for a brand new alt personally just in case someone says to buy one a junk yard or something. That is just my preference sorry guys.
    I was wondering what size grounds you were running, 4 gauge is good.

    Quote Originally Posted by KaosTsoc View Post
    Ok. So if I decide to go "Active" or bi-amped (which is more for "active" setup) I still would need a crossover to keep everything protected...??
    Yes that is correct.

    Quote Originally Posted by KaosTsoc View Post
    Now if I go passive then I do not need the crossover, and will be fine with just one 4 channel amp..??
    You will still need to use the polk crossover that came with your components. And a single 2 channel will be fine if you're planning on running 1 set of components. If you plan on using 4 channels and only 1 component set, bridge 2 channels together so you have a bit more head room.

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