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  1. #1

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    Default Hurricane Nuts vs. rings

    Looks like the rings are no longer available? I have 2.3tl's. I see PE has hurricane/propeller nuts, which are better than the T-nuts. Has anyone used these? Is the 8-32 size ideal.

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    Previous owners of my CRS+ had messed up the screw holes so I ended up caulking them and rotating the drivers and drilling new holes. I used the #8-32 hurricane nuts. PE recommends drilling 13/64" but I thought that was too tight and threatened to blow out the edge of the particle board. I used the 7/32" bit. I used a screw with washer to gently draw the hurricane nut into the hole. Then gently fastened down the drivers. In one instance, due to the oversize hole and a bit of crud on the threads, the screw jammed and the hurricane nut spun loose. I had to stick it down with a dab of panel adhesive on the flange.

    Jim

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    Hurricane nuts work much better in MDF than particleboard as jimbo1421 found out. Since the baffles in the 2.3TL's are MDF the hurricane nuts should work well enough.
    'Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end."

  4. #4

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    I think I will get the hurricane nuts from PE. I will be doing the x-over rebuild and might end up getting the RDO198 tweeters and you can only play around with the stock wood screws so much before they tear up the hole and strip.

  5. #5

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    I used the 8-32 Hurricane nuts on my 2.3TL's (MDF) and my RTA 12C's (particle board) along with socket head cap screws and 4 mm washers (other washers were too big and contacted the rubber surrounds on the MW's).

    I've had no issues with the H-nuts. I would have gone with Larry's rings, but they were not available.

    The important thing with H-nuts is to drill a hole only as large as the body of the part that is inserted. The "wings" that prevent it from rotating once seated should be wider than the hole you drill. I seated them per above with a screw and washer and tightening to pull them into the hole.

    It's a lot of holes to drill - 36 for each cabinet!
    "Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills, polyswitches removed, Lg Solen inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips installed on back wall behind MW's & Tweeters, interior of cabinets sealed, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer

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    Add another 8 for the PR. Those are the ones that get removed the most. Going to order 100 nuts from PE and I am going up to the hardware and see if I can locate some black socket head screws.

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    Quote Originally Posted by musky1963 View Post
    Add another 8 for the PR. Those are the ones that get removed the most. Going to order 100 nuts from PE and I am going up to the hardware and see if I can locate some black socket head screws.
    You're right! Forgot about the PR!

    I had a devil of a time finding the socket head cap screws locally for a decent price. Ended up ordering online - 100 for about $15.
    "Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills, polyswitches removed, Lg Solen inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips installed on back wall behind MW's & Tweeters, interior of cabinets sealed, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer

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    I was just going to ask where you got yours. I checked the local Ace hardware and they want like 45 cents each! They had M4 washers, but only in zinc. No biggie painting them black. What length is ideal?

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    Quote Originally Posted by musky1963 View Post
    I was just going to ask where you got yours. I checked the local Ace hardware and they want like 45 cents each! They had M4 washers, but only in zinc. No biggie painting them black. What length is ideal?
    Yeah, that's why I bought 'em online. You have to buy a box of 100, but it's still cheaper. Can't remember where I got 'em but they're easy to find. One word of caution: be sure and specify screws that are thread the entire length of the shaft or they won't screw in all the way.

    I bought black oxide - If I had it to do over I'd probably buy brass or aluminum or non magnetic stainless steel. The less ferrous materials around speakers cabling, power cords, etc. the better IMO.

    For the tweeters you'll need oval head screws; the oval heads fit perfectly into the tweeter mounting plate recesses. I got mine in non magnetic ss at ACE hardware. They weren't too expensive.
    "Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills, polyswitches removed, Lg Solen inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips installed on back wall behind MW's & Tweeters, interior of cabinets sealed, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer

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    Why are H-Nuts better than T-Nuts? I'm curious.

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    Going to order the hardware today. Should be a rewarding upgrade.
    Last edited by musky1963; 01-18-2012 at 06:06 AM.

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    The spikes on t-nuts are likely to chip the holes in the baffle and harder to install. Drumminman, are 1" screws a good length?

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    Quote Originally Posted by musky1963 View Post
    The spikes on t-nuts are likely to chip the holes in the baffle and harder to install. Drumminman, are 1" screws a good length?
    Yep. I even used 3/4" when I was buying pieces locally. I'd go with 3/4" if you can find it.
    "Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills, polyswitches removed, Lg Solen inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips installed on back wall behind MW's & Tweeters, interior of cabinets sealed, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer

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    For reference, I found the black 3/4" 8-32 socket head screws at Grainger for less than $14 for 100ct. Part # 4XE13

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    Got them in today. They sure are smaller than I expected. I think I will add a dab of JB or epoxy to the lip to make sure they stay put.

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    Quote Originally Posted by musky1963 View Post
    Got them in today. They sure are smaller than I expected. I think I will add a dab of JB or epoxy to the lip to make sure they stay put.
    No need to - just use the correct size drill bit. Should be only as big as the barrel of the H-nut (not including the "wings"). Like the ad copy says, they have amazing holding power.

    Really!
    Last edited by drumminman; 01-21-2012 at 11:12 PM.
    "Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills, polyswitches removed, Lg Solen inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips installed on back wall behind MW's & Tweeters, interior of cabinets sealed, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer

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    Would anybody mind taking pictures? I'm having a hard time visualizing the instructions given thus far. My CRS+ cabs are in desperate need of some lovin'. The sizes you guys listed would be alright for CRS+'s right?

  18. #18

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    Pretty simple. You insert these http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...umber=081-1080 in the holes, from behind. You then can use small bolts to put the drivers back in. Much better than the wood screws.

  19. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by musky1963 View Post
    Pretty simple. You insert these http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...umber=081-1080 in the holes, from behind. You then can use small bolts to put the drivers back in. Much better than the wood screws.
    I would seat the H-nuts first by using one of the socket head cap screws w/ a washer to pull it all the way into the mdf once you've drilled the hole. If you try to seat it and mount the MW at the same time I'm concerned you may damage the MW frame with the torque required.

    Ignore this if I misinterpreted your post !
    Last edited by drumminman; 01-22-2012 at 09:48 AM.
    "Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills, polyswitches removed, Lg Solen inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips installed on back wall behind MW's & Tweeters, interior of cabinets sealed, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer

  20. #20

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    My only concern is using these on the older CRS cabinets as just drilling a hole next to the edge of the hole can be challenging as the partical board chips away easily let alone pressing them in, this was a challenge with the rings as well, look for DK's and my upgrade threads for the CRS+'s. You might find you will need some wood filler to make them work, the MDF will be more forgiving.


    Good luck and have fun!!

  21. #21

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    Quote Originally Posted by drumminman View Post
    I would seat the H-nuts first by using one of the socket head cap screws w/ a washer to pull it all the way into the mdf once you've drilled the hole. If you try to seat it and mount the MW at the same time I'm concerned you may damage the MW frame with the torque required.
    Just use a vise-clamp with flat footers much faster and just as effective..

  22. #22

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    Maybe a quik-grip clamp would work well too? I will find out soon.

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    Yep that should work just fine..
    Last edited by Toolfan66; 01-22-2012 at 10:28 AM.

  24. #24

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    Got all the h-nuts in. Alot of holes! Had to grind down some edges on the h-nut flanges on the tweeters since the braces were in the way a little. Just fired it up and I immediately noticed better bass. I put all stainless oval head screws for the tweeters. Use 1" on those as the 3/4" are a little short for them. That upgrade was cheap, cost me less than $45 in all. I will do some critcal listening in a bit. My next upgrade is the x-overs. I already have the gimpod boards here, just have to order the parts. That upgrade isn't exactly cheap(the caps), but from what I gather from reading here........it is WELL worth it .

  25. #25

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    Good job! Yeah, I used a pair of diagonal cutters to cut a "V" section out of a few of the H-nuts where they bumped against the cross braces.

    Glad it worked out for ya!

    Wait till you hear the changes brought about after doing the Xovers!
    "Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills, polyswitches removed, Lg Solen inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips installed on back wall behind MW's & Tweeters, interior of cabinets sealed, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer

  26. #26

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    Where in NC are you? I am looking at SE TN area.

  27. #27

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    Central part of the state - near Chapel Hill
    "Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills, polyswitches removed, Lg Solen inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips installed on back wall behind MW's & Tweeters, interior of cabinets sealed, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer

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