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Thread: Sound deadening

  1. #1

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    Default Sound deadening

    I realize this is a well beaten horse, and I've read many of the threads on it, but fresh discussion never hurts. There are very mixed reviews on all of the cheaper options like quick roof and other home depot type products. I would like to avoid a lasting asphalt smell as well as any running or melting of vertically mounted dampening. For that reason I am doing the doors with the dynamat xtreme bulk pack: http://www.amazon.com/Dynamat-10455-...d_rhf_gw_p_t_4

    That was the most dynamat per dollar and the reviews are consistently good. I figure that should be enough to do four doors thoroughly, and if I'm lucky, the back hatch (it's an 03 Grand Cherokee).

    My question for those with experience, are there any cheaper options that have lasted the test of time for you? I'm looking for something cheaper just to thoroughly cover my flooring, as there may be just a hint of road noise in a lifted Jeep on the highway. I just don't have the money to throw into using dynamat for the entire job, especially if there are other reasonable options. Does anyone have experience with alternative products that have done the job at a lower cost?

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    If your just doing the floor, pick up some Rhino liner in a spray can from your local auto store. It should add to the thickness of the floor and help deaden the sound. Use as many layers as you need. Something like this: http://www.autobarn.net/duplicolor-t...te=google_base

    I myself have all 4 doors in my Jetta dynamatted, the trunk has 2 layers. Dynamat works great, but I think you can do better on the price for the bulk kit: http://www.caraudiodeals.com/dynamat-10455-p-897.html

    Also keep in mind they do make dynaliner which is supposed to be good for under the floors as well: http://www.caraudiodeals.com/dynamat-11103-p-1461.html

    Another brand I have heard of folks using (but havent myself) is FatMat.

    Personally I like dynamat over fatmat, and I plan to use the Rhino liner idea for my floor to start with since you can get the spray cans at a relatively cheap price.

    Good luck and happy rolling lol...
    Last edited by EndersShadow; 01-26-2012 at 08:06 AM.

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    Bedliners are a waste of time and money for sound deadening.

    That's a good price on dynamat, go for it.
    -Cody
    Music is like candy, you have to get rid of the rappers to enjoy it

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    Quote Originally Posted by exalted512 View Post
    Bedliners are a waste of time and money for sound deadening.

    That's a good price on dynamat, go for it.
    -Cody
    He's not looking to do much but get rid of a little bit of possible road noise from the floor which is why I recommended that. For the door's and trunk I recommend dynamat.

    I dont have anything on my floor, but with just the doors and trunk done I dont find I need to (doesnt mean I wont though )

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    I swear by Dynamat Extreme. It is the best and longest lasting deadener on the market. It costs a little more but its worth it.
    polkaudio sound quality competitor since 2005
    MECA SQ Rookie of the Year 06 ~ MECA State Champ 06,07,08,11 ~ MECA World Finals 2nd place 06,07,08,09
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    Quote Originally Posted by exalted512 View Post
    Bedliners are a waste of time and money for sound deadening.

    That's a good price on dynamat, go for it.
    -Cody
    Not entirely true. The spray in liners are quite absorbing. The rubberized zolatone will help as well.They reach their limit as dynamat keeps deadening as you add layers but Rhino will make a difference at substantially less cost.

    Funny thing I did yesterday was add Dynamat to the underside of my headshell. LOL. 2 Strips about 1 1/4 inch long and as narrow as I could cut it... about 1/8th inch. No! You can't see it haha. Took out some of the static that I know is there on certain LP's. I was quite impressed.
    Last edited by SDA1C; 01-26-2012 at 12:53 PM.
    Sda2.3 (Tweets, Spikes)
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    Rta11T (Tweets, Sonicaps, Mills, Spikes, Rings, Dynamat)
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    I shouldn't have used sarcasm in my first post. By "there may be just a hint of road noise in a lifted Jeep on the highway," I meant it's comparable to sitting in one of those vibrating massage chairs in the mall. My goal is to deaden the living crap out of the Jeep to eliminate as much of that as possible.

    After finding several more threads across different forums discussing this in detail:

    http://www.iwsti.com/forums/gr-exhau...one-sound.html

    http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2028658

    I think I have an idea of what I'm going to do. I've already ordered up the bulk pack of dynamat xtreme, so I'm definitely using that on my doors and back hatch, even if I have to order more. Dynamat will go anyplace it has to be mounted vertically. As for the flooring, I'm not looking for real sound isolation, just looking to kill some vibration and add some stiffness. I'm going to head to home depot and look for similar products. Apparently the key difference is whether the material is butyl or asphalt based. Asphalt is used for the cheaper stuff and will smell like tar when it heats up and possibly start running. Butyl is what dynamat and the others are made out of.

    If I can find a cheaper butyl product, then I don't think I need to worry about longevity, and for the low cost to cover the entire floor of the Jeep, I think it's ok to take the something is better than nothing approach and double up layers in some places. From everything I've read, it looks like doing that won't be as good as going full dynamat, but way better than nothing at a fraction of the cost. I'd love some feedback on this plan before I actually lay down the material though.

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    After an exhaustive search through home depot and lowes, the closest thing I found was a foil backed butyl adhesive ringing in at $38 for 37.5 sq feet. Even this was thinner and lighter than the actual sound deadening products. The only cheaper options were even thinner, not pure butyl, and smelled terrible. Looks like I'll be going with partial coverage using one of the brand name products.

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    Check into a thing called Peel and Seal(or peel and stick). Not promising anything but it's miles cheaper if you need a lot of it.
    Sda2.3 (Tweets, Spikes)
    Sda1C (Tweets, Sonicaps, Mills, Boards, Spikes, Rings, Dynamat)
    Rta11T (Tweets, Sonicaps, Mills, Spikes, Rings, Dynamat)
    5jr+ (Tweets, Spikes)
    CS350ls (Sonicap, Spikes)
    12" DXi x 2 (Dayton Plate. Slot ported Custom boxes)


    Sunfire TGP3, Sunfire SIG 425x5, Oppo BDP-93, Belkin PF60, Sony PS3 Slim 320 gig, Technics SL-1360
    DH Labs Prostudio XLR-Toslink-Hdmi,Peps for the Oppo, amp, pre and subs)

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    Quote Originally Posted by EndersShadow View Post
    He's not looking to do much but get rid of a little bit of possible road noise from the floor which is why I recommended that. For the door's and trunk I recommend dynamat.

    I dont have anything on my floor, but with just the doors and trunk done I dont find I need to (doesnt mean I wont though )
    And I'm saying that anything that can be put on by a consumer isn't going to do anything. If you took it to a Rhino Liner dealer and had them do it, it would help. But be prepared to pay for it as well unless you do most of the prep work...and even then...

    Quote Originally Posted by MacLeod View Post
    I swear by Dynamat Extreme. It is the best and longest lasting deadener on the market. It costs a little more but its worth it.
    It's not the best, but it is a good product. Some of the deals on amazon make it a great value.

    Quote Originally Posted by SDA1C View Post
    Not entirely true. The spray in liners are quite absorbing. The rubberized zolatone will help as well.They reach their limit as dynamat keeps deadening as you add layers but Rhino will make a difference at substantially less cost.

    Funny thing I did yesterday was add Dynamat to the underside of my headshell. LOL. 2 Strips about 1 1/4 inch long and as narrow as I could cut it... about 1/8th inch. No! You can't see it haha. Took out some of the static that I know is there on certain LP's. I was quite impressed.
    See above.

    If you're wanting to kill rattles, dynamat or a similar product is the way to go. But if you're wanting to kill road noise, it'll never happen. You'd need a butyl based liner, a liquid liner, and an open based foam deadener. That would be the most effective...but the doors, seals, windows, and tops (even the hard tops) are not designed to kill noise. I'd go on to say if killing road noise is your goal, you're wasting your money. It would cost a lot of money and you would get minimum return. But if you're just looking to kill certain rattles, buzzing, and vibration...it's doable.
    -Cody
    Music is like candy, you have to get rid of the rappers to enjoy it

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    Quote Originally Posted by SDA1C View Post
    Check into a thing called Peel and Seal(or peel and stick). Not promising anything but it's miles cheaper if you need a lot of it.
    Yeah. but then you'll be driving around smelling asphalt all day. Trust me, I tried this cheap alternative. Only took the next drive to work to regret it. That stuff is made for the roof of your house, not the inside of a car.

    Cody's exactly right. Dynamat and others are meant to kill resonance in the car from all the panels and sheet metal. It is not meant to sound proof it. They di make products for this and they work much better but to really get anywhere with it, you're gonna have to yank the seats out so you can get under the carpet.
    polkaudio sound quality competitor since 2005
    MECA SQ Rookie of the Year 06 ~ MECA State Champ 06,07,08,11 ~ MECA World Finals 2nd place 06,07,08,09
    08 Car Audio Nationals 1st ~ 07 N Georgia Nationals 1st ~ 06 Carl Casper Nationals 1st ~ USACi 05 Southeast AutumnFest 1st

    polkaudio SR6500 --- polkaudio MM1040 x2 -- Pioneer P99 -- Rockford Fosgate P1000X5D

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    I've heard about 50/50 on whether the asphalt smell stays. I am speaking from experience that says it goes away in a day or two if you leave the windows cracked over night. YMMV.
    Sda2.3 (Tweets, Spikes)
    Sda1C (Tweets, Sonicaps, Mills, Boards, Spikes, Rings, Dynamat)
    Rta11T (Tweets, Sonicaps, Mills, Spikes, Rings, Dynamat)
    5jr+ (Tweets, Spikes)
    CS350ls (Sonicap, Spikes)
    12" DXi x 2 (Dayton Plate. Slot ported Custom boxes)


    Sunfire TGP3, Sunfire SIG 425x5, Oppo BDP-93, Belkin PF60, Sony PS3 Slim 320 gig, Technics SL-1360
    DH Labs Prostudio XLR-Toslink-Hdmi,Peps for the Oppo, amp, pre and subs)

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    Quote Originally Posted by MacLeod View Post
    Yeah. but then you'll be driving around smelling asphalt all day. Trust me, I tried this cheap alternative. Only took the next drive to work to regret it. That stuff is made for the roof of your house, not the inside of a car.

    Cody's exactly right. Dynamat and others are meant to kill resonance in the car from all the panels and sheet metal. It is not meant to sound proof it. They di make products for this and they work much better but to really get anywhere with it, you're gonna have to yank the seats out so you can get under the carpet.
    Any specific suggestions? I've already taken all the seats out of the Jeep for this and other projects and was planning on putting some dynamat under the carpet anyway to at least kill resonance. Is there anything relatively inexpensive to help with some amount of sound proofing from the bottom? I'm not looking for recording studio silence, just to cut back on road noise a bit.

  14. #14

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    Closed cell foam (corrected from what I said earlier, you do NOT want open cell foam), but it aint cheap.
    http://secondskinaudio.com/products/...Insulation.php
    -Cody
    Last edited by exalted512; 01-27-2012 at 07:45 PM.
    Music is like candy, you have to get rid of the rappers to enjoy it

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