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  1. #31

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    How does in-wall wiring attach to the keystone connectors from the inside? Screw-in terminals or you have solder? I will be replacing outer wall insulation in our HT room in the next year or two, so I'll install the connectors like this at least for the surround speakers. It looks so clean!!
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  2. #32

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jstas View Post
    OK, so studs don't expand at all.

    Got it.
    Wood expansion is perpendicular to the grain. Unless someone was feeding the trees through the sawmill sideways, expansion is negligible in the vertical direction on a stud.

    And more to the point- the expansion doesn't just happen at one end. If this was truly an issue, there'd also be gaps at the middle of the wall where sheets butt together and at the top where it hits the ceiling.

    That gap is there purely as a consequence of the height of the wall vs the precise 8' measure of the drywall.
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  3. #33

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    Quote Originally Posted by Serendipity View Post
    Haha, I remember you had wall plates everywhere!!

    Even the Polk Atriums were nicely installed!
    Thanks

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  4. #34

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    Quote Originally Posted by ViperZ View Post
    How does in-wall wiring attach to the keystone connectors from the inside? Screw-in terminals or you have solder? I will be replacing outer wall insulation in our HT room in the next year or two, so I'll install the connectors like this at least for the surround speakers. It looks so clean!!
    What I did with mine was to solder the end of the wire so it couldn't loose up, and screwed the end.

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  5. #35

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    Quote Originally Posted by ViperZ View Post
    How does in-wall wiring attach to the keystone connectors from the inside? Screw-in terminals or you have solder? I will be replacing outer wall insulation in our HT room in the next year or two, so I'll install the connectors like this at least for the surround speakers. It looks so clean!!
    Most wall plates have screw terminals or binding posts that you just tighten down. No solder is necessary, although if you want to tin the wire you can solder the ends before putting it into the binding post. When there are multiple speaker wires involved, I also label the individual wires to make it easier when connecting. Something like "Front Left" and "Front Right" for the mains and "Surround Back / Left" for the rears. Very easy to do. It's simple, and works great!
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  6. #36

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    Reviving this thread, because my next project is... structured wiring.

    I'm putting an enclosure in the laundry/utility/storage room, which will house my cable modem, router, a 24-port switch, my Obihai, my ReadyNAS, an 8-camera surveillance system and the outdoor sprinkler controls. I could also centralize the cable TV and telephone, but I don't see any reason to (feel free to offer opinions here).

    Just got started on it today, so here's what I've done so far:

    An overall view of the room


    The hole where the box goes (that's a shower on the other side)


    The box that will occupy this hole


    And the door that will eventually go on it



    Box is a Suttle 44" enclosure with a vented door. There are a few different brands out there to choose from, like Leviton, Open House, Honeywell and Elk, but I went with Suttle because it was the only one I could find that I could order with an included flush-mount vented door. Other brands would come with a non-vented and/or non-hinged panel cover, and the door had to be ordered separately.

    But the nice thing about these enclosures it that there are modules designed specifically to fit inside them, like CATV splitters, ethernet/phone punchdown blocks, audio distribution, etc. I haven't ordered any of the modules yet, but that's next, after I get the enclosure permanently mounted. There was a little more gap that I had anticipated between the sides of the enclosure and the studs so the first thing I need to do is cut some 1/4" chipboard to make shims. Also need to drill the holes into the attic and crawlspace, of course. Probably will run a bit of conduit through the wall space into the attic/crawlspace so that I can seal it and make it airtight after the cables are run.

    If you're interested in this type of enclosure or the modules that can go in them, there's a site called Hometech that sells most of the brands. I actually bought the enclosure from Neobits.com since Hometech did not have the Suttle with the vented door.

    http://www.hometech.com/hts/products...g/struct_wire/

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  7. #37

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    Oh I'm also using keystone plates/low-voltage boxes from Monoprice. Already have most of that stuff. I'll be replacing each of the CATV/phone plates that the house came with with 4- or 6-port keystone plates, reattaching the existing CATV and phone wiring to keystone plugs, and adding 2 or 4 ethernet ports to each one.

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  8. #38

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    Avaya,Leviton....all are good for just about any install. With Cat 5 , be sure to keep the runs under 300 feet. Are you guys familiar with BICSI standards?

  9. #39

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    I'm not a huge fan of those wall boxes since:
    a)You have to use their modules
    b)OK, so you've got a 24 port switch and an 8 channel DVR/ security system... are they going to fit in there? if so, how much heat? Will that gear be designed for the vertical orientation that you'll have to use? If not, then you have to put that gear outside the box.... and have a bunch of wires running out to it. All I've got in mine is CATV distro (which I don't use since I have one cable box and run that to a matrix switch) and phone (which I don't use since I've dumped the landline).

  10. #40

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    Actually the Suttle system I went with offers various blank plates and brackets for mounting just about anything, and rails for mounting competitors' modules. I'll be using very few of the modules--only the Cat5 punchdowns. The rest will be mounted on one of the blank plates or just placed inside the enclosure without a mounting plate.

    I may or may not put the ReadyNAS and the security system on a shelf above the box. I haven't decided on that yet. But if I do, I will use a low-voltage plate to connect them to the equipment in the box--there will be no wires coming out of the door.

    The door is vented at the top and bottom, so if heat buildup does become an issue I can always add some small intake/exhaust fans to the vents. I've got plenty of spares from my PC building. Hell I may do it anyway just to make use of some of these fans.

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  11. #41

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    Syndil, are you going to add a 110vac outlet to the bottom of enclosure to power modems, switches and or routers?

    Like your idea good luck with it. I wonder if that would have worked better for me in this house, I seen them in houses before but never lived with one.

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  12. #42

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    Don't fret you could add add an electrical box to it under it just by cutting a hole for it.

    Speakers
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    RT800i's Rears
    Sub Paradigm Servo 15

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  13. #43

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    The box has two single-gang knockouts at the bottom. I'm going to wire one of them up, and then put one of these in the box:

    http://www.tripplite.com/en/products...nalist_AV550SC

    RT-12, CS350-LS, PSW-300, Infinity Overture 1, Monoprice RC-65i
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  14. #44

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    Thanks for clearing that up for me.... Looks as you're thinking ahead.

    Speakers
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    CS400i Center
    RT800i's Rears
    Sub Paradigm Servo 15

    Electronics
    Conrad Johnson PV-5 pre-amp
    Parasound Halo A23
    Pioneer 84TXSi AVR
    Pioneer 79Avi DVD
    Sony CX400 CD changer
    Panasonic 42-PX60U Plasma
    WMC Win7 32bit HD DVR



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