2 way speakers without crossovers...

[Wolfmag]

Question... would buying a 2 way speaker that doesn't include an internal crossover such as the "Alpine SPS-170A 6-1/2" Type-S Series Coaxial 2-Way Speaker", would that mean that the tweeter would be destine to blow prematurely since the whole time it will be attempting to reproduce frequencies it can't?

I noticed alot of the higher end 2way speakers mark internal crossovers as a "feature", but I would think that would be pretty standard in 2way speakers. I mean, I can't hook up a crossover for tweeter oriented frequencies if it has to go through the Woofer first...

I'm just wondering because the Alpine Type S i mentioned above is *considerably* cheaper then it's type R equivalent!

-k

[PoweredByDodge]

2 way speakers - cheap ones - have capacitors inline with the tweeter, glued or screwed to the basket, to keep the tweet from sucking low frequencies... however often the woofers are not xed over... (ie polk EX II series).

higher end stuff (ie polk DX / Momo coaxials) have both x's on woof and tweet.

so no its not destined to blow - else the company wouldn't be able to give u a warranty

so perk up - smile - and enjoy :o)

however the type R coax's and the momo coax's will demolish the type S and the EX III coax's.

[Wolfmag]

"however the type R coax's and the momo coax's will demolish the type S and the EX III coax's."

Demolish it in what way? Demolish my bank account better? lol! j/k.

Ok I understand now. :) So since the Type S's woofer isn't crossed over, its going to try to reproduce subwoofer frequencies such as 60 hz or lower thus mudding up the sound when cranked right?

What I'm looking for is a really "efficient" 6.5 inch speaker that would sound half way decent on the head unit's power. Sounding decent, as in the best mid-bass reproduction with minimal wattage (or 23 watts to be exact). Yes, I know, I'm a cheap basterd. Hey, I have rent to pay - times are tough! :P

When I saw the Alpine's Type S spec, it had a sensitivity rating of 92db which I assume it's pretty efficient by comparing specs against others (like MB Quart). Also, its RMS handling is only 40watts which is a lot closer to what my HU will be able to put out. The logic being here is, if I choose to buy a speaker that has an extremely high RMS rating, its probably made much beefier (thicker magnet, heavier components) meaning it will probably *need* much more power to show it's stuff AND actually sound WORSE then a lesser speaker if choked by only a measly 20 some odd watts.

Would a component setup pull this off better? Although they seem more expensive and have higher watt handling… Again, I'm using the logic stated above: Choose a speaker which it's RMS rating is closer to what you really have.

I'm looking for the most bang for my buck (looking to spend about up to $120) - something that has the best mid-bass response with only 23 watts.

So, since ya'll are the experts of Car Audio, if you have any recommendations that would rock! :) (Although I already ordered the Type S - i can always throw those in back since ya'll told me i shouldn't bridge my HU, lol :P)

Although this forum isn't as active, ya'll make this forum the best. -You guys rock :)

Thanks Guys.
-k

[PoweredByDodge]

well demolish meant "sound way way mega gooder!"

:)


far as what the "non crossed over woofer" of the type S... nah, u missed my point... no coaxials or components on the market (i dont think) have high pass crossovers at 60 hertz or whatever... they'll all try to play low frequencies til you cross them over yourself at that point. i was referrring to the point where the tweet picks up.

like, k, here... the tweet starts playing from lets say 4,000 hertz and UP... so its HIGH PASSED at 4k (on the tweet). but the woofer isn't. so its trying to play everything (that means the lower stuff and the 4k and UP stuff too. a "gooder" set like the momo or type R sets, would not onlyhave the tweet high passed at 4k or whatever, but the woofer LOW passed at 3k or 4k or whatever so it doesn't play the same **** hte tweeter's tryin to play. got it? i hope so :)


personally.. i like the following coaxials (that wont break the bank)

Polk EXIII
Polk DB (new ones -- i LUST for the old ones but u need an amp).
Pioneer

[Wolfmag]

Ok so I just stopped by Frys today and guess what... I actually got to demo MY deck with a Polk MMC650 AND a DB650. =) The DB650s was selling for 100 bones while the MMCs were selling for 170. There were a bunch of other (brand) speakers on that display but they all sounded like crap, lol (me bias? no…)

The display was all push button run, so I turned off the Amp to see how they sound with just the HU driving them. To my amazement, they STILL sounded frigin' awesome! Most noticeable, the MMCs. They had awesome mid-bass response even with so little power. Hell, even the highs sounded better (not as harsh - softer I guess) At first I didn't believe it and I was looking all around for a "hidden" amp but the salesman assured me that as long as the amp button isn't pressed, it's powered by the HU. Damn... Now I'm *seriously* temped to splurge and buy the MMCs, lol.

Damn you polk! Your gunna be the end of me! haha :P

I think I’m gunna get em.

My only concerns though if I do is one, they are way to attractive looking. Just about everyone who's in to Car Audio has their version of how they got their sh*t stolen. Sigh... I hate being paranoid. Anyone have any ideas to make it more incognito? I can’t really run it without a Grill as I’ll need it since the speakers will be near my feet.

And two, I just hope I'm not being fooled by the display setup. Those display cases probably resonate bass. :P I can only hope they will sound at least 75% as good, once in installed in the car.

Polk = owns my bank (first home audio, now car audio)
:p

-k

[PoweredByDodge]

go to radio shack or wherever and find some generic black plain jane mesh style grilles.

the old polk DB and DX stuff had the black mesh grilles with polk logo -- i used to just take a knife and shave the polk letters of and then black magic marker over the spot -- left me with a plain black grille (not that i didn't want the polk name on it - it was just for fear of theft).

you can also try pep boys / autozone / or those stores - they sell cheasy grilles for factory replacement junk speakers. no reason why you cant use a **** grille on a sweet new polkie speaker.

[MTXMAN]

that's why i have a car alarm and full coverage insurance ;D

[sntnsupermen131]

i have an alarm, tinted windows, a ****ty truck, and a shotgun
-Cody