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  1. #1

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    Default Question on dynamated 15" passive radiators

    Would anyone happen to have an pic on how you dynamatted the PR's. I noticed there are raised ribs on the spokes that come out from the center. Is this were you applied the dynamat?

    Thanks Dave
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  2. #2

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  3. #3

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    Quote Originally Posted by fjross View Post
    Would anyone happen to have an pic on how you dynamatted the PR's. I noticed there are raised ribs on the spokes that come out from the center. Is this were you applied the dynamat?

    Thanks Dave
    Yes, the spokes and on the PR's, do the round end bell piece as well.
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  4. #4

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    Thanks for the replies. I just got done with finishing up 1 speaker with the Black hole 5 (4" strips) as well as a set of Larry's rings and the Cardas binding post upgrade. I'm looking forward to audition the800va dreadnaught for the first time with my monoblocks. Does anybody have a trick for wiping down the sticky material on the drivers?
    Mcintosh MC-501 mono blocks
    Mcintosh C-45
    Mcintosh MVP-871
    PS AUDIO AV5000
    MIT 3.3 Shotgun biwire speaker interface
    MIT 3.3 Shotgun XLR interconnects
    Polk 2.3TL's Gimpod boards/F-1 modded crossovers/dynamat/JB weld/Larry's rings/Blackhole 5 strips
    Polk 3.1 TL's mint/stock (purchased new)
    Polk SDA-2's

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by fjross View Post
    Thanks for the replies. I just got done with finishing up 1 speaker with the Black hole 5 (4" strips) as well as a set of Larry's rings and the Cardas binding post upgrade. I'm looking forward to audition the800va dreadnaught for the first time with my monoblocks. Does anybody have a trick for wiping down the sticky material on the drivers?
    If you mean the MW cones, people here tend to use Windex to clean them.
    "Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills, polyswitches removed, Lg Solen inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR binding posts, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheets (3" strips) installed on back wall behind MW's & Tweeters, interior of cabinets sealed, AI-1 interface with 1000VA transformer

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    I'll try to find pics of mine when I get home. The drivers are much simpler to dynamat effective as they are smaller and have the added benefit of the magnet /top plate/ pole peice for some stiffening/damping effect on their frames. I found when dynamatting the passive frames, (especially the 15's) I needed multiple layers to satisfactorily dampen the frames. I judged this by tapping the frame with the end of my finger (no contact with my nail) and listening for any ringing in the frame. I actually ended up using 3 layers on the ribs of the 15's a large more complete layer first and then smaller peices on top of those with a layer underneath on the cone side as well, and 2 layers on the back flat area. This may have been overkill as once mounted with gaskets, more damping is applied to the frame, but i found it easier than mounting, listening, removing and redoing.

  7. #7

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    Does anybody have a trick for wiping down the sticky material on the drivers?
    As mentioned, Windex works very well. Spray it on a lint free cloth and wipe in a circular motion.
    'Political Correctness'.........defined

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  8. #8

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    A great source for Dynamat is Summit Racing, and Jegg's. I have delt with both and they are good to go, take your pick. Below is a door speaker kit which is what you want.

    [http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DYC-10415/[url]

    [http://www.jegs.com/i/Dynamat/327/10415/10002/-1[url]
    Last edited by transmaster; 05-22-2012 at 11:40 AM.

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