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  1. #1

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    Default Polk Audio LSi9 Crossover Modification Thread

    I searched for a previous LSi9 mod thread that I had started (which I thought I had) to no avail... feel free to merge!

    I am really enjoying working on the LSi9!

    Two different folks under the gun right now, one sent me his actual speakers so I will be applying foam to inside the enclosure among a few other things...

    Should be fun!
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  2. #2

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    One last picture for the night! Everything is mechanically wired, just gotta solder it all together!
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  3. #3

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    Nice work. When cutting those protoboards, I found it easier to get straight cuts if I used a normal bowsaw, but rather than cut into the board at 90 degrees, I cut parallel to the board along its full length. That way the full board is scored in a straight line.

  4. #4

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    Unfortunately the only thing I have to cut these would be like a table saw so I usually cut them by hand... :(

    Always improving though! More tools in time!

    Thanks for the advice, I try to add tools and parts as time goes on! I sink it all in!
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  5. #5

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    Just gotta wire it all together! :)
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  6. #6

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    Crossovers are done!

    Time to apply some foam!!
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  7. #7

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    One speaker, foam applied, crossovers installed, ZAINO polished, ready to rock!
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  8. #8

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    I think my camera is on its way out.. if I could take a picture of itself you would understand lol
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by VR3 View Post
    Crossovers are done!

    Time to apply some foam!!
    VR,
    Very Nicely Done ! What are the caps you are using ? How much do a pair of these go for if I may ask ?

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    Thanks man!

    I am using Clairty Cap SA (red), PX (blue) for the tweeter network and PX again for the midbass. Mundorf resistors

    The "Castle Level" mods are not that expensive - roughly $165.00 per speaker with shipping + paypal fees
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    Great Job as always Trey! Looking good!...

    I still haven't done anything to my centers or surrounds.... Just doing some 2 channel listening (loving it of course) and just built a ebay DAC with some Burr Brown DAC chips and changed some op amps.

    Really learned a lot from doing the speakers though!

  12. #12

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    Thanks man!

    I am glad to hear you enjoying them! I have contemplated messing around with some electronics kits but just do not have the time!
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    I don't have enough post to PM you. Have you or anyone else on the forum compared various levels of crossover modifications? I'm wondering if a $500 parts list produces noticeable improvements versus a $350?

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    Quote Originally Posted by D_M View Post
    I don't have enough post to PM you. Have you or anyone else on the forum compared various levels of crossover modifications? I'm wondering if a $500 parts list produces noticeable improvements versus a $350?
    Not head to head that I am aware of. There are normally just two standard versions of parts lists folks go with I believe and most just figure if your gonna upgrade it do it once and do it right and spend the extra on the best parts. I will let Trey weigh in on what those 2 standard parts lists are .
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  15. #15

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    The Clarity Cap MR is leaps and bounds over anything I have tried... combine that with the Duelund resistors and it literally will sound like there is nothing between the drivers...

    Unfortunately that would require extensive modifications, external crossovers, the works... but the difference is huge, but the price tag would be tremendous. The ESA series is quite a bit nicer than the SA series too but it is about double the price...

    Personally for me the 400-500 dollar range (tops) is the most you should invest into the LSi9 - that is about half of the original value of the LSi9...

    To me a reasonable amount to invest into a set of speakers is 1/3 to 1/2 of its original value to improve them as you can actually increase the performance double to triple the stock performance with quality parts. That is no exaggeration.

    My "standard" parts recommendation is a mix of the PX, SA and ESA
    Last edited by VR3; 06-12-2012 at 01:46 PM.

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    Trey,
    why the use of the bennic bypassed with a better cap? I've just thought in the past most were really against a bypass of any configuration because of the nasties that tend to come with. Is it more a size consideration (bennic) than just using a poly cap in that place?

  17. #17

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    The Bennic is a 250 uf - it generally accepted to use a bypass in that function.

    Bypass caps are almost as controversial as cables - there are ALOT of folks, namely Danny Ritchie that believe in Bypass caps. At the end, Sonicap actually designs their entire line around bypass caps...

    I personally think with a high enough quality cap it can be a negative but I have bypassed the PX series with the ESA series and lots of folks love the results.

    Here is a picture of the first LSi9 I did a while back for Lou where we replaced that 260 uf with Clarity Cap PX for size comparisons... you definitely would have to go external replacing them...
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  18. #18

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    VR3,

    Thanks for the response. Sorry to muddy the thread, but I believe others might be curious as well. What would be your top level recommendation for in chasis mods for the entire series? I'm mainly intrested in the 15s, LSi, and LSi7s. I'm sure there are curious LSiFX and 25 owners too.

  19. #19

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    To be quite honest, for an "in chasis" modification you are looking at it. You *MIGHT* be able to exchange the SA series with the ESA but that is it...

    Anything else would require remote mounting (tower models) or external...
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  20. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by D_M View Post
    VR3,

    Thanks for the response. Sorry to muddy the thread, but I believe others might be curious as well. What would be your top level recommendation for in chasis mods for the entire series? I'm mainly intrested in the 15s, LSi, and LSi7s. I'm sure there are curious LSiFX and 25 owners too.
    well one quick and easy mod for the LSi 15 is to replace the stock 8" sub with a Polk car sub model # db840 (the SVC one though). I have done this mod and its easy, cheapish and made a difference.

    The problem with the 15's is that I believe you actually have 2 boards in it and its a PITA to do really unless the person doing the xover mod has the actual speaker with them and the 15's are cost prohibitive to ship, and many have broken bases even when they ARE shipped.
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  21. #21

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    Quote Originally Posted by EndersShadow View Post
    well one quick and easy mod for the LSi 15 is to replace the stock 8" sub with a Polk car sub model # db840 (the SVC one though). I have done this mod and its easy, cheapish and made a difference.

    The problem with the 15's is that I believe you actually have 2 boards in it and its a PITA to do really unless the person doing the xover mod has the actual speaker with them and the 15's are cost prohibitive to ship, and many have broken bases even when they ARE shipped.

    Thanks for the additional info Shadow. I recall Face and Doro mentioning the PITA factor with doing the 15s. I would deliver and pick my speakers up.

  22. #22

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    I have had the LSi15 crossovers here -

    I could easily perform a Fortress or Castle Level modification on them and they would be extremely easy to reinstall...

    No problemo
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  23. #23

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    Nvm....
    Last edited by slider2828; 06-12-2012 at 07:41 PM.

  24. #24

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    There is definitely a point where a bypass cap is no longer needed and is definitely a downgrade.

    I recommend bypass caps for the PX series but I would never bypass the SA, ESA or MR series - just would not make sense
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    What do you think about the vishay's for bypass? I've heard great things about them....

  26. #26

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    I think you are diving more into the electronics side of this hobby... I checked out their site and it looks like they offer more stuff suited for that unless I did not see it??
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  27. #27

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    Quote Originally Posted by slider2828 View Post
    What do you think about the vishay's for bypass? I've heard great things about them....
    Don't do it.
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  28. #28

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    Yeah pretty much only for bypass.....

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    Quote Originally Posted by VR3 View Post
    Thanks man!

    I am using Clairty Cap SA (red), PX (blue) for the tweeter network and PX again for the midbass. Mundorf resistors

    The "Castle Level" mods are not that expensive - roughly $165.00 per speaker with shipping + paypal fees
    I am putting together a little two channel system for my new kitchen + addition using LSi 7's. I may be interested in upgrading them (the 7's) at some point. Have you done x-overs for the LSi7 ? They should be fairly similar, if so what would br the price on those ?

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    LSi7 crossovers are simple to upgrade. You can do everything on the OEM binding post cup, no need for additional boards.
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche

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