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Thread: Larry's rings

  1. #1

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    Default Larry's rings

    I am in the process of upgrading my SDA 1c's. Rdo 194's - installed! modded crossovers-will be installed soon. However, I am new to this upgrading stuff and want to do this right. While I have the drivers out, I am also considering applying Dynamat (which I have no clue on what I need to be doing) and I thought about installing Larry's ring's

    So this will probably sound like the newbie question that it is, but what are the main benefits to installing Larry's rings to these vintage speakers. Also, is there a thread or instructions to help with installing.

    I didn't want to bother Larry right now because I'm sure he's real busy processing orders and such, but I know there's alot of experience and expertise in this forum.

    Any and all help (insight) is appreciated. Help the new guy do it right! Thanx
    PS: I'm still kinda new in the hobby, but my wallet has been around the block a couple of times.

  2. #2

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    Darkknight did a detailed writeup & install instructions. Its here somewhere.

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    The main benefit of the rings is the ability to do all the tweaks you're talking about without the concern of stipping away the threads on the speaker baffle when you're removing and re-installing the drivers and passive radiators. Since Larry's rings are metal you don't have to worry about stripping the threads, ensuring that you'll be able to reattach the drivers firmly and get good gasket seating to seal the cabinet.

    I know there's a few good threads for instructions on installing these guys, I didn't have much trouble when installing them on my SDA1A's.

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    Thanks fellas
    PS: I'm still kinda new in the hobby, but my wallet has been around the block a couple of times.

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    Purchase the Dynamat Extreme Wedge Pack. You can pick them up for $20 or so on ebay and apply them to the baskets of your PR and midrange. Some people even put them on the tweeters, but I do not find it necessary.

    Also, you may want to replace the gaskets for either mortite or Armacell for a more air-tight seal. Right now, I use Mortite as my sealant. You can pick this up for less than $10 at Home Depot. I found that the Dynamat Extreme combined with mortite combined has produced wonders for the sound. Be prepared to be blown away. If you decide to go with the Mortite, you should perform this after installing Larrys Rings, the Crossover Upgrade and Dynamating the baskets since mortite is a non-permanent sealant which weds the speaker to the cabinet.

    If you decide to go over with the crossover mods, I recommend Sonic Caps and Mills Resistors. They cost more than the Solens and other economical caps out there, but they are WORTH IT!!!

    I have not tried Armacell, but those who have tried it found it to be pleasing.
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    The main benefit of the rings is that they couple the drivers solidly to the bezel, not the concern of stripping out the holes in the bezel. With the rings installed you absolutely do not need to use Mortite. In fact, the rings allow the baskets to couple to the bezel so tightly that I'd bet no gasket is actually needed, although I wouldn't advise that. As long as the original gaskets are not damaged you don't need to change them.
    'Political Correctness'.........defined

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  7. #7

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    In the process of upgrading my original set of SDA SRS speakers. Can't wait to get my hands on a set of Larry's rings!

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    Are there any pics of Larry's rings out there. I've read lots about them, but I've not seen any pics. Just curious to see what they look like. A before and after would be even better.

    Thanks fellow CP members...

    -Saftgeek

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    I'll assume you're not just running up your post count........ pics here, http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/show...sive-Radiators
    'Political Correctness'.........defined

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    Good Lord... give the post count thing a rest. Thanks for posting the link. I should just read every one of DarqueKnight's posts. His posts are really second to none. It's so cool to have somebody take the time to give step-by-step directions. My next question is whether or not this is important if your screw holes are not worn out and you don't plan to take the drivers in/out very often? I'm positive I'm not an accomplished SDA listener yet and not sure if I'd notice the subtle differences he indicates in his thread. I need to spend some hours listening and figuring it all out. I'll get there as soon as the grass stops growing. Till then I get home from my day job, change clothes, and jump on a lawn mower till dark. The stuff we do so our kids can wear shoes, right...

    Thanks again F1. If you post your phone number I'll call you and you can post my comments so we can keep my post count down... Now I'm yanking your chain. I hope you old timers can take a little of what you dish out.

    -Saftgeek

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    It's got less, much less, to do with the screws holes being worn out than it does with coupling the drivers to the bezel. Did Ray say subtle differences? I'll have to disagree, the improvement in mid-range clarity and bass response is substantial.

    No worries, I soak it up like a sponge.
    'Political Correctness'.........defined

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    Mr. F1 - just so I understand. The template is used to drill holes completely through the enclosure, after which the rings are inserted inside the enclosure. Are they glued in place or does the screws in the speakers hold them in? I think I understand??? Does the drilling template come with them or do you order those seperately? Would you recommend installing them all at the same time, speakers first, or the PR?
    I've really got to slow down on buying stuff for these speakers. (not having 100 posts has really helped! ) I have a Boy Scout High Adventure trip to pay for. If I keep going my son will have to start walking dogs and earn his own money. I vaguely remember somebody telling me "welcome to the rabbit hole" when I found my SDA's. I'm thinking that comment was about the money they seem to soak up.

    -Saftgeek

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    The template is used to drill holes completely through the enclosure, after which the rings are inserted inside the enclosure.
    Correct, but if you're halfway capable with a drill you don't need to use the templates.

    Are they glued in place or does the screws in the speakers hold them in?
    The rings will stay in place after you more or less press fit them into the holes, no glue needed.

    Does the drilling template come with them or do you order those seperately?
    Comes with, but as I said above.....

    Would you recommend installing them all at the same time
    Absolutely. Get the tweeter brackets as well, which are sold seperately.
    'Political Correctness'.........defined

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    Quote Originally Posted by F1nut View Post
    Did Ray say subtle differences?
    No, Ray did not:

    Quote Originally Posted by DarqueKnight View Post
    Listening Evaluation

    The ring installations resulted in greater clarity, presence, apparent sound level, and bass macro details, bass micro details and bass impact.

    1. After the right speaker was completed, the left speaker sounded veiled by comparison...as if a thin sheet was over it. This was evident when mono material was playing and even more evident when stereo material was playing.

    2. At the seating position, the right side of the sound stage sounded louder, heavier and clearer. Standing two feet in front of each speaker, there was more tactile sensation coming from the bass notes of the right speaker.

    3. The sound stage dimensions did not change. However, images at the far right became more clear, detailed and weighty.

    After the initial listening evaluation, I was eager to achieve Such Good Sound from the left, but I curbed my enthusiasm and worked slowly and carefully. After the left speaker was completed, I heard:

    4. New bass details in familiar recordings, particularly tight, articulate micro growls.

    5. More overall clarity.

    6. More weight, detail and presence in vocals.

    7. More sustain and natural decay in piano notes.

    8. Enhanced three-dimensionality and more image weight at the sides and rear of the sound stage.

    It is always amazing when I hear how much musical information was being lost due to vibration at the driver/cabinet interface...and this was in speakers that had extensive cabinet and driver vibration abatement modifications. Indeed, the cabinets themselves were re-designed by the manufacturer to minimize vibration and detail robbing resonance.
    subtle: very fine; thin; delicate; faint; difficult to discern...
    "Polk SDA-SRSs are hopelessly out of date both sonically and technologically... I see no value whatsoever in older SDA speakers."~Audio Asylum Member
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  15. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by DarqueKnight View Post
    No, Ray did not:
    lol.....
    'Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end."

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    Okay Mr F1, now I need to know why I need tweeter brackets. You sold me on the rings. I actually understand how the make the driver almost part of the cabinet, but what does the tweeter bracket do? Keep them from viberating?
    If the foam gaskets are intact do you necessarily need to use Armacil (sp???) or will Larry's rings and the gasket work?

    Sorry Mr DK for using the wrong words... I am a nub and have yet to fully awaken the SDA inside of me. I am having a lot of fun moding and learning about the why-fors.

    -Saftgeek

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