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  1. #1

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    Thumbs up the next sda srs 1.2 tl

    this is what i am building i named them sound force 1.2S need help modifying the 1.2tl crossover design for two more tweeters the big woofer is a 18" that i removed the magnet and voice coil to make it a passive radiator
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  2. #2

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    Shoving a bunch of drivers in a cabinet does not a great speaker make.
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  3. #3

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    Quote Originally Posted by DSkip View Post
    Shoving a bunch of drivers in a cabinet does not a great speaker make.

    Many good folks here have attempted this and FAILED miserably. I am looking to build a set of new cases for mine, but the cabinet volume and front baffle, and speaker complement will absolutely remain untouched.

    I am not trying to dissuade you, but rather to point out that spending several grand on a project like this is a bunch of money to spend on failure.
    The Gear... Carver "Statement" Monoblocks, Polk Audio "Signature" Reference Series 1.2TL with complete mods, Polk audio AB700/800 "in-wall" surrounds, Dodd Audio MLP, Pioneer Elite SC-65, Peachtree I-DAC, Oppo BDP-93, Yamaha PX-3 Turntable, with Sumiko BPS EVOIII, Pioneer PDD 9MkII SACD Player, SimAudio moon 110lp phono preamplifier

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    Name:  image.jpg
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  5. #5

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    this is true but i did the math on air volume, drive size, and this why there a 18" passive and a call out on cabinet size the drivers are for each speaker 6-polk mw6503 6-mw6517 and tweets are 3000 the crossovers are a copy of the sda srs 1.2tl but with all update call outs better coils,400volt caps and 12 watt resisters all parts have been had on ebay and parts express cost so far with out cabinets is about $875.00 for the two speakers woofers are going to be wired series parallel same as the call out for polk 1.2 but will need to adjust ohm load from 4 drive to 6 drivers the help i need is the tweeter array each of the 4 tweeter on the 1.2 each are set to it own frequency so the easy way would be to have 2 tweeter act as one and adjust the ohm load and then play with it placement on the speaker harder way would be to split frequency of one tweeter to two that what i think would be better then play with the placement that what polk did if you look in to the srs 1.2 you will read that the tweeters are not 1,2,3,4 from top to bottom if i remember its 4,1,3,2 on placement other ideas i have is having the in side cabinet sprayed with rino liner or truck bed liner I will also need to play with the 18" fake sub cone wight for bass out put

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    Quote Originally Posted by CLUBCARRERA View Post
    this is true but i did the math on air volume, drive size, and this why there a 18" passive and a call out on cabinet size the drivers are for each speaker 6-polk mw6503 6-mw6517 and tweets are 3000 the crossovers are a copy of the sda srs 1.2tl but with all update call outs better coils,400volt caps and 12 watt resisters all parts have been had on ebay and parts express cost so far with out cabinets is about $875.00 for the two speakers woofers are going to be wired series parallel same as the call out for polk 1.2 but will need to adjust ohm load from 4 drive to 6 drivers the help i need is the tweeter array each of the 4 tweeter on the 1.2 each are set to it own frequency so the easy way would be to have 2 tweeter act as one and adjust the ohm load and then play with it placement on the speaker harder way would be to split frequency of one tweeter to two that what i think would be better then play with the placement that what polk did if you look in to the srs 1.2 you will read that the tweeters are not 1,2,3,4 from top to bottom if i remember its 4,1,3,2 on placement other ideas i have is having the in side cabinet sprayed with rino liner or truck bed liner I will also need to play with the 18" fake sub cone wight for bass out put
    I suggest you start with proper punctuation. We can work on paragraph structure after that.

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    Your idea of a passive sucks!!!
    No Way But The Hard Way, So Get Used To It!!!

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    realy ? so you must be smarter then me on this so tell me what right ?

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    Passive radiators are designed specifically to be passive radiators - not subwoofers with the parts ripped off. They work somewhat like ports - they are tuned to work best with the design in hand. Speaker design is not for the weak of heart, and if you don't have extensive experience and knowledge, you're going to get a massive, expensive turd that will take more to flush than its worth.

    I wish you luck in whatever you decide, but the odds of success might be lower than winning the lottery. Not only are you trying to build a speaker from scratch, but you're trying to build a speaker with unique design principles in place, making the design challenge that much greater.
    Usher CP-6311, Shuguang S200MK, Shuguang S845MK, Pioneer BDP-51fd, Essence Audio HDACC, Douglas IC's, Douglas Alpha bi-wire SC's, Pangea/Douglas PC's, Epson 8100

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    Quote Originally Posted by CLUBCARRERA View Post
    realy ? so you must be smarter then me on this so tell me what right ?
    Butt hurt much?

    Quote Originally Posted by DSkip View Post
    Passive radiators are designed specifically to be passive radiators - not subwoofers with the parts ripped off. They work somewhat like ports - they are tuned to work best with the design in hand. Speaker design is not for the weak of heart, and if you don't have extensive experience and knowledge, you're going to get a massive, expensive turd that will take more to flush than its worth.

    I wish you luck in whatever you decide, but the odds of success might be lower than winning the lottery. Not only are you trying to build a speaker from scratch, but you're trying to build a speaker with unique design principles in place, making the design challenge that much greater.
    This^^^^^^^^
    No Way But The Hard Way, So Get Used To It!!!

  11. #11

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    Your wasting your time, and will gain nothing, but a longing for your money back..

    Your money would be better spent buying a set of 1.2's/1.2tl's and upgrading the components...
    No Way But The Hard Way, So Get Used To It!!!

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    Epic fail.
    'Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end."

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    Quote Originally Posted by F1nut View Post
    Epic fail.

    For some reason, my troll detector is on high alert.
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  14. #14

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    you are right but if we do not try we can not move on to some thing great take the 18" passive radiator i was looking to buy one the cheapest was 270 bucks so for 52 bucks bought a new 18" sub off ebay that look like just like 6.5" polk add a stiffer spider for 8 buck add epoxy glue for 10 cut the the spider on the new 18" to get at the screws for the magnet and voice coil remove them line up the new spider glue it back together for the hole on the voice coil was 2" so the lid off a wd40 can fixed that total cost 70 bucks besides if it in end up sounding bad i will gust copy build 1.2tl cabnets and sell all the extra drivers

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    Quote Originally Posted by CLUBCARRERA View Post
    you are right but if we do not try we can not move on to some thing great take the 18" passive radiator i was looking to buy one the cheapest was 270 bucks so for 52 bucks bought a new 18" sub off ebay that look like just like 6.5" polk add a stiffer spider for 8 buck add epoxy glue for 10 cut the the spider on the new 18" to get at the screws for the magnet and voice coil remove them line up the new spider glue it back together for the hole on the voice coil was 2" so the lid off a wd40 can fixed that total cost 70 bucks besides if it in end up sounding bad i will gust copy build 1.2tl cabnets and sell all the extra drivers
    You should have used the top from a can of black paint as it has greater density.
    'Political Correctness'.........defined

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    wow ! really everyone on this site is a expert yet not one helping hand ? well I think my speakers look petty cool and I bet they will sound great to me that's all that matters thanks everyone for you nice help full commits

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    Helpful suggestions have been made, the problem is you aren't listening. You don't even understand why you can't take a 18" woofer and turn it into a PR, so what's the point.
    'Political Correctness'.........defined

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  18. #18

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    ok go buy or look at polk or jbl passive radiator and there normal speaker its the same parts less the magnet and voice coil the only part that add is a card board disk to plug hole of the missing voice coil they are some times call sub woofers because they transfer sub sonic frequencies in fact that all they can do with no voice coil some do add wights or stiffer spider to tune them to mach the speaker design some one is building

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    It's alive! It's Alive!!! Kill it Quick!!!!!, Kill it with Fire!!!! ARRRRRRRGGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!
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  20. #20

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    ok I am listing both ears are open ! why can I not make 18" woofer into a pr on my bench right now i have a 18" jbl pr and a 18" jbl woofer from a jbl speaker both have the same basket and same cone and spiders in fact the basket on the pr have holes drilled and taped for the magnet both have cone damage when i went to order the new cones the pr and the woofer have the same part numbers the only thing i can see is a 1/8 inch card broad disk on the pr to plug the hole for the voice coil so please ex plane

  21. #21

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    nice job ! have looked and read all about this and you the coils you used the caps testing and i am now understanding whats going on ! here i am defacing a well loved art work!!!! its like trying to put a cheve engine in a porsche i have a porsche repair shop i know but what every ones does not under stand is i am trying to build it better how would you do it ?

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    They wouldn't. Because they know better.... Matthew polk is not called a genius for no reason.

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    MY hats off to you for trying. I would like to see a newer updated better design, just like the 198/194 tweeters are an upgrade there should be better Mw drivers from someone than what we have, I just don't know if it would be worth it.

    Quote Originally Posted by CLUBCARRERA View Post
    nice job ! have looked and read all about this and you the coils you used the caps testing and i am now understanding whats going on ! here i am defacing a well loved art work!!!! its like trying to put a cheve engine in a porsche i have a porsche repair shop i know but what every ones does not under stand is i am trying to build it better how would you do it ?
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    moving on polk 1.2 tl subject poly switch the upgrade info calls out for a jumper or resistor .1 to.5 ohm what works ! and why also i have a nice set of 3.1tl what should i sell them for or ask?

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    so my driver for this is my mint sansui g9000 160 watts pre at .01

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    there should be better Mw drivers from someone than what we have
    Why? Doped paper cones are excellent and known for their natural sound.
    'Political Correctness'.........defined

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    why can I not make 18" woofer into a pr on my bench right now i have a 18" jbl pr and a 18" jbl woofer from a jbl speaker both have the same basket and same cone and spiders in fact the basket on the pr have holes drilled and taped for the magnet both have cone damage when i went to order the new cones the pr and the woofer have the same part numbers
    Polk's PR is specifically designed as a PR, not some hack job like it appears JBL did.
    'Political Correctness'.........defined

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    Man at the ignorance around here sometimes...

    Let me first say that I would (as others have already mentioned) not spend any time on the proposed project. If you want a better sounding ( I realize that is personal preference), more accurate, SDA then you should go smaller and not larger. The more drivers you add the more the sound is cluttered. If you simply want more bass, design or purchase an exceptional sub. Check out DIY audio for some ideas and to see what some others have done. Tremendous output down to 10hz can be achieved if that is yiour goal. For me I belive part of the reason i prefer the 2 series is due to the driver/ cabinet vol/ passive are/ ratios. I agree with your notion that could be improved in the larger cabinet models but don't belive it to be worth the effort or cost in doing so. As someone else has said, better drivers are easily available than what the older SDA's contain; driver technology has come a long way in the past decade. To that same end, so has cabinet technology, and the huge front baffle of the SDA's is one of its weakest links. Unfortunately, with the technology there is little that can be done (other than going with the smaller versions). If you just want to build something that is BADASS, then go fo it. It will definately look cool and may end up sonding good to you and as you said that is what matters. I believe that the SDA technology and what you propose doing with it will not work well enough to justify the effort and money you will spend on it. This is just my opinion.

    On the other hand some of the experts here are arguing points that are simply not true because the ideas don't match their pre-concieved idea of what things are or should be.

    My basic point is that the idea appears to be a bad one, but so are some of the arguments being made.
    Last edited by Mr. Bubbles; Today at 09:09 AM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Bubbles View Post
    On the other hand some of the experts here are arguing points that are simply not true because the ideas don't match their pre-concieved idea of what things are or should be.
    I'd be curious to hear you elaborate on this point.
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    Quote Originally Posted by DSkip View Post
    I'd be curious to hear you elaborate on this point.
    Me too.....also the "more drivers the more the sound gets cluttered" statement.

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