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  1. #1

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    Default Speaker grill pegs

    Hi guys,
    My son (2) broke a couple of the speaker grill pegs off when he was messing with my Monitor 70s. He must have been wiggling the grill so the peggs broke and are stuck in the peg hole. I cannot grip it with anything to pull them out. Does anyone have any suggestions for getting them out without damaging the speakers?

  2. #2
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    Hello,
    One approach is to use a small thin nail called a "brad" which are used to put picture frames together. Tap the nail into the broken treelock (what those tabs are called) then use a pair of pliers to pull it out.
    Ken

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    After you get them out you can get the replacements from parts express, unless Polk still carries them.

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    Are you dealing with a metal or plastic peg? I had a couple of the pegs break off from a FXi3. The ones in the speaker were made of some plastic material while the ones I received from Polk as replacements were metal. My approach was to start with a small drill bit and work my way up to one size smaller than the actual hole. The key was to use a very low speed with the bit and remove the material little by little. I was able to remove enough of the old peg to replace it with the metal one. The hole was slightly over size so I just used some wood glue to make sure it stayed in.

    good luck

  5. #5

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    I used a 1/16th drill with a pin vise and drilled into the peg and pulled it out. Works very well.
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    A small drill and a drywall screw

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    If worse comes to worse u can use a screwdriver and knock them inside the cabs, pull a driver and retrieve them. They are designed to resist comming out from the front. As stated u can buy replacements fron parts express pretty cheep. In my rta12's i had to push them through to the inside to get them out. And retreve them through a speaker port.
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    Into JBL L123 drivers
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    Btw ck first that the holes go through the cab. I dont know if they do in all models. They did un my rta's
    Main Rig:
    Krell KAV 250a
    McIntosh MC 2120 bi-amped
    Into JBL L123 drivers
    Rane external crossover.
    MIT exp 1 ic's
    Perreaux SA33 class A preamp
    AQ kingcobra ic's
    ADCOM GDA 700 DAC ( MODDED)
    YAMMY CDC-665
    Marantz 6100 tt w/pickering XV-15/625E cart.
    Monster HTS 3600 power conditioner
    POLK RTA-12C'S W/ RDO194 TWEETS, clarity ESA caps mills risistors (full mod)
    MIT exps2 speaker cable

  9. #9

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    Thanks for the suggestions. I'll see what I can do.

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    I had the same problem w/ my JBL 2060s and like said before I drilled the peg w/ a bit smaller in diameter, inserted a screw and
    backed out the peg.

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    The easiest way to remove a snapped-off plastic grille peg from the speaker is to get a wood screw smaller than the diameter of the peg and heat the tip of the screw with a lighter. Then push the screw into the center of the peg and let it cool.

    After it cools, you can grab the end of the screw with a pair of pliers and easily pull the peg right out.

    It don't get any easier than that.
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    Default After You Remove The Broken Peg......

    Just to add, after you remove the snapped off peg with a screw as I described above, you can then remove the screw from the peg to repair the grille.

    I take the peg and drill a hole through the back side about half way through. Then I take the screw and cut it off leaving just the threaded section. I screw half of it into the peg and then screw the peg back into the grille while liberally applying JB Weld to it. When done you have a threaded rod reinforced peg JB Welded to the grille that will never break again and works just as good as new. I have a CS1000p and a RT3000p both repaired this way.
    POLK AUDIO SRT (Signature Reference Theater)
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    Custom HTPC w/Multi-Lane SATA Hot-Swapable Drive RAID Tower

  13. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by Gatecrasher View Post
    Just to add, after you remove the snapped off peg with a screw as I described above, you can then remove the screw from the peg to repair the grille.

    I take the peg and drill a hole through the back side about half way through. Then I take the screw and cut it off leaving just the threaded section. I screw half of it into the peg and then screw the peg back into the grille while liberally applying JB Weld to it. When done you have a threaded rod reinforced peg JB Welded to the grille that will never break again and works just as good as new. I have a CS1000p and a RT3000p both repaired this way.
    Now that's a great way to fix the pegs, I have two broken on my CS10. Will fix this evening.

    Cheers Roger

  14. #14

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    I just used the heated screw method you suggested. Worked like a charm on several snapped pegs or treelocks from a couple of Monitor 7C speakers I picked up at a thrift shop.

    Name:  treelock_screw.jpg
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    Also, after ordering a few replacement parts (SL2000 tweeter and mid driver replacements) through Polk, I asked about replacement treelocks. They're sending me a bunch free of charge. Best customer service ever!

    Be advised though: Apparently Polk used two different sizes of treelocks back in the 1980s according the a Polk Audio technical support rep. Sure enough, when I looked at my speakers I noticed that the later Monitor 7 speakers with beveled front edges have much smaller pegs than the Monitor 7 with straight 90 degree edges.

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