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  1. #1
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    Exclamation Help! Did my power cable blow his tubes?

    I sent my DIY power cable to someone, it has worked perfectly for months in my system. He plugged it into his tube amp and the aftermarket fuse blew in his $10,000 amp. He switched to his old power cable and his tubes blew, and another fuse. The fuses and tubes are worth $641, and he wants me to pay for them. Because he hasn't had any problems for 3 years, until switching the power cord to mine.

    Is it possible that a power cable can do this?

  2. #2

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    Nobody knows. Obviously that problem cannot be determined on a forum. On the other hand, it would seem possible a bad power cable could fry whatever it is plugged into, and a DIY cable is a strong contender to be defective, depending on the quality of its build.

  3. #3

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    IF!!!! I had an amp that cost ten G's I would not plug in a DIY cable without first verifying polarity... You should check for continuity between each leg (for shorts) and bend the IEC connector around while doing this. You don't say how the cable is made? How it works since you got it returned? If there was a short or reversed polarity this could cause the fuse to blow, but that is to protect his amp. I'm guessing, but I'd say a tube went and took out other components with it. Pictures would help, of both the cable and amp.

  4. #4
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    reversed polarity

    Funny sh$t! right there!
    Components could care less which is neutral and hot.
    Ever see a polarized aftermarket male plug?

    LOL!
    Last edited by pepster; 09-23-2012 at 12:51 AM.

  5. #5
    pepster
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    Edit!
    Last edited by pepster; 09-23-2012 at 01:16 AM.

  6. #6

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    I honestly do not see how the power cable would have blown the amplifier if he has used it all this time with no issues. The only thing I can think of is if the cable you made is not capable of supplying sufficient amerage that the tube amplifier needs.
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  7. #7

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    Either the story is BS (why would someone come here to make this their first post) or he dislodged something when he moved the amp to switch out the power cables.
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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by VR3 View Post
    I honestly do not see how the power cable would have blown the amplifier if he has used it all this time with no issues. The only thing I can think of is if the cable you made is not capable of supplying sufficient amerage that the tube amplifier needs.
    The wiring I use is CE certified and 15awg thick, it is enough to supply sufficient amperage. Standard cables are thinner than this.

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by AudioTruth View Post
    The wiring I use is CE certified and 15awg thick, it is enough to supply sufficient amperage. Standard cables are thinner than this.
    Sounds great for a cheap CDP, but not for a tube amp...
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by nooshinjohn View Post
    Sounds great for a cheap CDP, but not for a tube amp...
    Do you mean that his tube amp blew because the cable was too thin? I have been using the cable for my gaming computer for many months without any problems. His tube amp is rated 2 x 100 watts?

    Here are the specs for his tube amp:

    Specifications





    Amplifier


    Ayon Triton III





    Class of Operation


    Triode* or Pentode mode, Class-A*




    Tube Complement


    8 x KT88




    Load Impedance


    4 & 8 Ohms




    Bandwidth


    8Hz-70kHz




    Output Power:Pentode mode KT88


    2 x 100 W




    Output Power:Triode mode KT88


    2 x 60 W




    Frequency Response


    10 Hz - 60 kHz




    Input Impedance at 1 kHz


    100 KΩ




    Input sensitivity (full power)


    1V




    NFB


    0dB




    Remote Control


    Yes




    Inputs


    3 x Line IN, 1 x XLR IN, 1 x Direct IN,




    Outputs


    1 x Pre Out




    Dimensions (WxDxH) cm


    51x42x25 cm




    Weight


    45 kg

  11. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by AudioTruth View Post
    Do you mean that his tube amp blew because the cable was too thin? I have been using the cable for my gaming computer for many months without any problems. His tube amp is rated 2 x 100 watts?

    Here are the specs for his tube amp:
    A tube amp is a very different piece of equipment than a gaming computer. Does your gaming computer weigh 45 kg like the tube amp? The tube amp output power rating is very different than the input current required.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Outfitter03 View Post
    A tube amp is a very different piece of equipment than a gaming computer. Does your gaming computer weigh 45 kg like the tube amp? The tube amp output power rating is very different than the input current required.
    How much input current did the tube amp require?
    I live in Europe where AC cables can be thin because the power is drawn through both the live and neutral conductors. In USA where he lives, the power is drawn from only the live conductor.

  13. #13

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    12 awg minimum per conductor, IMO
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    Quote Originally Posted by VR3 View Post
    12 awg minimum per conductor, IMO
    When I bought a 500 watt power amp, it came with a 18 awg stock cable. What gauge size do tube amps come with?

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    I could see a diy power cable wired wrong and cause an issue.

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  16. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by AudioTruth View Post
    I live in Europe where AC cables can be thin because the power is drawn through both the live and neutral conductors. In USA where he lives, the power is drawn from only the live conductor.
    A power cord with European terminations will not work in the USA unless the terminations are changed or adapters used, so who did what?
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  17. #17

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    If your in Europe and he's stateside I see this as a non issue. Cut all ties and hide in the ghettos of Amsterdam, hookers, dogs and heroine will be your best friends. Good luck.

  18. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by pepster View Post
    Funny sh$t! right there!
    Components could care less which is neutral and hot.
    Ever see a polarized aftermarket male plug?

    LOL!
    Not if there are other problems inside the amp. Lets say there's a shiner on the white wire to ground.
    Under normal operation, still ok. But a reversal, things will get ugly with 110vac.
    But given the updates since the original post, something strange is afoot.
    Last edited by sucks2beme; 09-23-2012 at 09:12 PM.
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  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by F1nut View Post
    A power cord with European terminations will not work in the USA unless the terminations are changed or adapters used, so who did what?
    I use US style plugs in my system with US power strip. I have been using US power cables since I started this hobby with balanced 3-phase power. So I'm able to use thinner conductors both because the voltage is twice as high and because of 3-phase power where the load is shared between the conductors.

  20. #20
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    I'm not certain about the balanced power anymore. I was told my audiophile AC regenerator makes balanced power. But from another site I found that balanced power uses 5 conductors, and it's only used for stoves and motors here in Sweden.
    My PS Audio P300 Power Plant has only the standard 3 pin IEC input and 3 conductor output, did they lie to me about it being balanced power?

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    Quote Originally Posted by VR3 View Post
    12 awg minimum per conductor, IMO
    I found something in wikipedia, it says that 14 awg can handle 20-25 amps of current. Doesn't this mean that the tube amp should have a 20 amp input instead of the standard 15 amp IEC?

  22. #22

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    Quote Originally Posted by AudioTruth View Post
    I found something in wikipedia, it says that 14 awg can handle 20-25 amps of current. Doesn't this mean that the tube amp should have a 20 amp input instead of the standard 15 amp IEC?
    15 ga should easily be able to handle 14 - 15 amps, I doubt the tube amp draws more than that. Whatever the problem is, it's not the size of the wire. Fuses blow when too much current runs through them, not when there isn't enough.

  23. #23

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    Tell the buyer of the cable that it is not your fault and be done with it

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by WilliamM2 View Post
    15 ga should easily be able to handle 14 - 15 amps, I doubt the tube amp draws more than that. Whatever the problem is, it's not the size of the wire. Fuses blow when too much current runs through them, not when there isn't enough.
    Ok good, I thought it was strange too that the fuse would blow when not getting enough power.

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    Is this your first diy power cable you have ever done? It can be very important where the Hot / Neutral / Ground is placed to the equipment, if you know for sure this is the case and is correct having smaller or large gauge of wire isn't going to blow any fuse. IMHO

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  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by disneyjoe7 View Post
    Is this your first diy power cable you have ever done? It can be very important where the Hot / Neutral / Ground is placed to the equipment, if you know for sure this is the case and is correct having smaller or large gauge of wire isn't going to blow any fuse. IMHO
    I have built DIY cables for a decade so I have lots of experience. I have known how to re-terminate the cable properly for a decade, I always triple check everything many times, and also in the end before finally closing the plug. I'm never sloppy with my job, I always take my time. I never had any problems until now when his fuse and tubes blew. I said it's not possible, but he keeps insisting it was my fault. Now I doubt myself.

  27. #27

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    The cable probably worked at first, but with all the shipping and bending it very easily could have ended up with some, or all, of the conductors shorted together. Who knows what the construction quality was like.

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    Quote Originally Posted by BlueFox View Post
    The cable probably worked at first, but with all the shipping and bending it very easily could have ended up with some, or all, of the conductors shorted together. Who knows what the construction quality was like.
    If the conductors were shorted together, it would have tripped a breaker instantly. The only way to tell for sure, is to get the cable back, and check it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by WilliamM2 View Post
    If the conductors were shorted together, it would have tripped a breaker instantly. The only way to tell for sure, is to get the cable back, and check it.
    I have asked the cable back, but no response yet.

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    got any pictures of your cables?

    thanks

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