JB Welding your magnets on your old drivers

[Toolfan66]

Well in my 1C upgrade thread I posted about JB Welding magnets on my drivers. so I thought I would post some pictures as too where I JB Welded my magnets and why.

In the pictures you can see where the first plate has been stamped and used to rivit this plate to the basket. IMO it would take a good jolt to snap this section off so I see no reason to JB weld there.




In this picture you as well as the first pic above you can see where the glue failed to hold the magnet in place.



In this pic you see the back plate, the pin or shaft for the voice coil is what will lock up your driver if you have a magnet shift, you can also see where the glue failed as well. this is the reason why I JB Welded my drivers in the eight places I did.



A final pic to see where I used JB Weld. Now I am not saying you need to use JB Weld, I am sure you could use other good adhesives that are on the market.



Now just because our drivers are 20+ years of age doesn't mean you will have a magnet shift, for me since they are out might as well add a little insurance since some of these drivers can be hard to find..

Larry.

[ben62670]

Not all MW's are rivited;) I had my share of bad drivers in my days that died from shipping:(

[cincycat13]

Thanks for posting the pictures...well worth the 1000 words you didn't have to use. I should probably look more into this as I already got 1 replacement driver from ben:)

[Toolfan66]

Not all MW's are rivited;) I had my share of bad drivers in my days that died from shipping:(

Correct I should have stated that, Some drivers are not rivited, and then I would suggest putting JB weld in that area..

If you shine a flashlight in the side of the driver just right, you will be able to tell if it's rivited or not..

[WastelandWand'r]

Tool,
Hope you dont't mind using your thread but I have a question that i believe is relevant.
Today while taking my 1C's apart to dynamat the baskets, and mortite the sels, I figured what the hey, I'll lock the magnets into place.
All was well until the third one when I realized as I went around the magnet the 'ledge' was getting smaller. Closer examniation showed that it had 'slipped'.
I had not noticed that the driver in question was not working while listening.
I finished on this, the left speaker, and put everything back together.
I slowy pushed on the passive and keeping my ear as close as I could to the driver I couldn't hear anything scraping.
Am I deluding myself that I would hear it, or not? Should you hear it, or if it has slipped are you chasing your tail and replacing it is the only thing you can do?
All the drivers move, and under power appear to be performing.
Any thoughts, greatly appreciated.
Sorry for the rambling.
Nathan

[Toolfan66]

Tool,
Hope you dont't mind using your thread but I have a question that i believe is relevant.
Today while taking my 1C's apart to dynamat the baskets, and mortite the sels, I figured what the hey, I'll lock the magnets into place.
All was well until the third one when I realized as I went around the magnet the 'ledge' was getting smaller. Closer examniation showed that it had 'slipped'.
I had not noticed that the driver in question was not working while listening.
I finished on this, the left speaker, and put everything back together.
I slowy pushed on the passive and keeping my ear as close as I could to the driver I couldn't hear anything scraping.
Am I deluding myself that I would hear it, or not? Should you hear it, or if it has slipped are you chasing your tail and replacing it is the only thing you can do?
All the drivers move, and under power appear to be performing.
Any thoughts, greatly appreciated.
Sorry for the rambling.
Nathan

If your driver is moving in and out normal, with no scraping scratching sound you are "OK", not all the magnets were assembled dead center. in the pics above you see the back plate with the pin that is about 3/4" of an inch, that is the part that is critical to be centered with the driver for the voice coil. I found a few of my drivers the same as yours so no worries.

Hope this helps,

Larry.

[WastelandWand'r]

To the best of my hearing they are scratch free. Hopefully with the application of adhesive they are set.
Thanks again,
Nathan

[thejck]

OK so once again Larry's pics help clear up a lot of understanding. Just to make sure I get it right.
If you see rivets between the bottom plate and the basket then you should jb weld the magnet to the top plate and the bottom plate in 4 places all around the driver for a total of 8 welds?
If you are not sure about the rivets in the bottom then do 4 more spot welds between the bottom plate and the basket
Did I get it right?

[Toolfan66]

Correct!!!

[thejck]

Thanks once again Larry

[1996BlackBauer]

Sorry to bring up an old thread, but it seems that you reconed the woofers, is that necessary? because I have 2 woofers that are locked, but still have impedance. how difficult would it be to realign the woofers with all the soft parts in them? also if the magnet has not fallen off, how hard would it be to get it off? I do realize I can get replacement woofers, but JB Weld is much cheaper then new woofers.

[pitdogg2]

Sorry to bring up an old thread, but it seems that you reconed the woofers, is that necessary? because I have 2 woofers that are locked, but still have impedance. how difficult would it be to realign the woofers with all the soft parts in them? also if the magnet has not fallen off, how hard would it be to get it off? I do realize I can get replacement woofers, but JB Weld is much cheaper then new woofers.

No Larry took a bad MW apart to illustrate the merit of JB weld and to show where the glue is applied.

[dbryant]

I tried to glue a magnet on a pr of jbls but could not align them enoufh to avoid vc rubbing.

[dscheer]

As always great info post Larry...My RTA 12Cs are 28 years old (I purchased them 1984) I think I will JB weld all the Cone Drivers. Still need to rebuild the crossovers. I learn so much from this forum. Thanks!

[dscheer]

Sorry for the double post, my computer froze up.