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  1. #1

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    Default What is the best Sub-Woofer for my 2010 Altima Sedan w/Bose

    I have a 2010 Altima sedan with the factory Bose system. I think that the Bose sounds OK, but I am tired of the 6x9" rear deck "woofers" clipping on low frequencies when I turn the volume up. I understand that putting an enclosed sub-woofer to my trunk will solve this problem and have been recommended an "in-line" setup. I am not looking for anything real loud or crazy.

    - Can someone provide a recommendation for an amp/woofer combination for my Altima?

    - Is this something I can install myself? (I am moderately handy)

    - Do I have to run it from the HU or can I just tap into the speaker wires? What are the advantages of running to the HU?

    - Will the current 6 speakers how have more power available (ans sound better) since the lows are being being handled by the new sub-woofer?

    - Do I need a separate sub-control on my dash?

    Thanks,
    Doug

  2. #2

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    Default

    My current plan is to have a PA330 300W amp and DXI108 8" enclosed subwoofer installed by the Geek Squad at Best Buy. This will cost me about $400. What other options should I consider in this price range?

    Thanks,
    Doug

  3. #3

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    Buy a MM1240 from onlinecarstereo.com for about $150, get a nice sealed box for $50 to $70, and an Alpine MRX M55
    Audison Bit Ten
    Kenwood X595
    Polk MM6501
    Polk MM1240
    Mtx 704x
    Alpine MRX50

  4. #4

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    Don't have Geek Squad do anything to your car. They are noobs and know nothing about SQ except how to jack up equalizer settings and make systems sound "loud"
    Audison Bit Ten
    Kenwood X595
    Polk MM6501
    Polk MM1240
    Mtx 704x
    Alpine MRX50

  5. #5

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    Default

    I just added an Infinity Basslink powered sub to my 92 corvette convertible. It can wire into your exisitng speaker wires (I think) and provides decent bass in a very small package. Bought it at Crutchfield, who can give you car-specific install guidenace.

    I replaced my HU with a Clarion unit and used a line-level feed to the sub. I also used the existing Bose Gold amps and speakers with an adapter kit, and have been fairly pleased with the results. The sub issue was/is very limited space. The Basslink fits behind the driver seat and allows use of the deck hatch storage compartment on the passenger side. Provides much more thump than I expected, even with the top down.
    My DIY HT
    RT3000p fronts
    CS1000p center
    F/X1000 side surrounds
    RT3000p sats rear surrounds
    Polk RT35 height channel
    2 x SVS PB12/Plus 2's
    Onkyo PR-SC5507 Controller
    Sherbourne 7/2100 200 x 7 Amp
    Sherbourne TST4 100 x 2 Amp
    PS-3 BD
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    Oppo DV-980H for hirez audio
    Technics SL-D2 TT
    DVDO VP30 with SDI input
    HDFury for HDMI to RGBHV conversion
    NEC 10PG CRT projector
    Draper AT1200 acoustically transparent screen
    Berkline 090 electric recliners with Aura Bass Shakers

  6. #6

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    Default Bass-Blockers, enclosure & misc

    Thanks for the suggestions guys. I kind of like the MM1240/MRX M55 combination suggestion. After soing some thinking I have some additional questions.

    The main reason I am getting a sub-woofer is that my rear deck 6x9s clip horribly at low frequencies with even moderate volume. So I am planning to install bass-blockers on the inputs to these 6x9s. This leads to 2 questions:

    1) What frequency should my bass-blockers block? 80hz? 90hz?

    2) Should I consider bass-blockers on my other speakers? They don't really seem to clip at all

    Also:

    In that car the original Bose amp that powers the other 8 speakers is in the trunk. Is there any way I tap into it's power connection for the new Alpine amp rather than running a new wire?

    What brand of enclosure is recommended? Should it ported or not?

    I am a little bit concerned about the sub-woofer overwhelming the sound. I am kind of counting on the bass control in the HU essentially controlling the sub. Is this realistic?

    Thanks for your help!

    Fat Doug

  7. #7

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    Default

    I would not even run the rear speakers. They cause imaging issues and phase cancellation in the bass range. I would just run the front stage, if you can find bass blockers for 60Hz that would work, 80 is too high. If you were to cut the front at 80 the bass will pull to the back of the car.

    Keep your bass control on the HU at 0. For the sub level use the remote gain knob that comes with the amp to control the bass.

    I'm not sure about tapping into the Bose amp. If it just runs the rear stage, I would disconnect that amp and connect the power and ground to the new sub amp.

    I would definitely go sealed for the sub. Tighter sound, better blending with front stage.
    Audison Bit Ten
    Kenwood X595
    Polk MM6501
    Polk MM1240
    Mtx 704x
    Alpine MRX50

  8. #8

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    I'm a month late to this party but If you didn't get it done yet pm me I'll walk you thru this install.
    I also have 4th gen Altima sedan and know this car inside and out including all that is needed to add a sub to bose system, just don't wanna start typing it up, looking for how-to links and all if you already moved on with this project.
    2008 Nissan Altima
    Kenwood DNX 5140
    Arc Audio IDX and XEQ
    Polk Audio SR6500 active and SR124-dvc sealed
    Polk Audio PA500.4 and PA1200.1

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