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Thread: hurricane nuts

  1. #1

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    Default hurricane nuts

    is there another name for these? i am trying to find a place that has them other than parts express. the shipping to Canada is brutal!

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    is there another name for these?
    Not that I'm aware of.

    i am trying to find a place that has them other than parts express.
    They are available on Amazon and eBay.
    'Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end."

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    Tee nuts/prong nuts are similar but not identical. Should be available anywhere--local hardware store for example.

    http://www.amazon.com/Prong-Nut-8-32...=Tee+nuts+8-32


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    Parts Express through Amazon I do this a lot.

    http://www.amazon.com/8-32-Hurricane...d_sim_sbs_hi_6

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    I think they have a fastenal in Canada. They will have them.

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    Those are available at every Home Depot and Orchard Supply I have ever been in.

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    Quote Originally Posted by oldmodman View Post
    Those are available at every Home Depot and Orchard Supply I have ever been in.
    Hurricane nuts or T-nuts? Big difference and I would not recommend T-nuts for speaker basket mounting, but they are great for spikes.
    'Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end."

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    ^^^ +1

    H-nuts are smaller and will work much better.
    "Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills, polyswitches removed, Lg Solen inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR binding posts, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheets (3" strips) installed on back wall behind MW's & Tweeters, interior of cabinets sealed, AI-1 interface with 1000VA transformer

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    The prongs on the T-nuts will more than likely bend instead of penetrating the MDF. I know because I tried installing them and they didn't work well at all. I ended up cutting off the prongs and used liquid nails to hold them in place...what a pain in the ass. A much better alternative is to use hurricane nuts as others have recommended.
    SDA SRS 1.2TL's w/ RD-0198's, Sonicap, Mills, Armacell, SDA 1C's w/Clarity Cap ESA; PA, Mills; SDA 2B TL's; SDA 2's w/RD-0194's; Monitor 10's w/peerless tweeters
    Yaqin MC-30L integrated tube amp

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    Michaeljhsda2 mentions MDF. It should be noted that the bezels of all SDA's up to the TL verisons are particle board, only the TL versions are MDF. Regardless, T-nuts have to be driven in with a hammer and that is NOT what one wants to do on the flange of a driver cut out.

    Hurricane nuts are designed to be drawn in and should never be hammered in. To draw the H-nut in use a screw/bolt with a washer. Place the H-nut at the rear of the hole, run the screw/bolt into the threads and slowly tighten until the H-nut has setted.
    'Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end."

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    went with t-nuts because they are locally available. yikes! hard to set. burned through cap screws and even a stainless bolt trying to set them in without clamping of any kind. didn't destroy the cabinets but wasted materials. i would def'n say that something other than t-nuts should be used. i went for the cheapest solution, but am wondering if it would have been better to just spend a bit more and ordered the hurricanes.

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    Quote Originally Posted by canadianicon25 View Post
    burned through cap screws and even a stainless bolt trying to set them in
    Most stainless bolts are weak. About the equivalent of hardware-store Grade 2. Total junk for anything structural.
    http://www.ebay.com/gds/stainless-bo...1623345/g.html

    What grade of cap screws were you using?

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    Quote Originally Posted by canadianicon25 View Post
    went with t-nuts because they are locally available. yikes! hard to set. burned through cap screws and even a stainless bolt trying to set them in without clamping of any kind. didn't destroy the cabinets but wasted materials. i would def'n say that something other than t-nuts should be used. i went for the cheapest solution, but am wondering if it would have been better to just spend a bit more and ordered the hurricanes.
    You're making it too hard on yourself!

    Get H-nuts, drill out the existing holes in the front baffle to the diameter of the H-nut shaft (but not the wings of the shaft, in other words don't make it too big), press the H-nut in by hand just enough for it to hold, use your screw (preferably allen head) to draw it into place.
    "Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills, polyswitches removed, Lg Solen inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR binding posts, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheets (3" strips) installed on back wall behind MW's & Tweeters, interior of cabinets sealed, AI-1 interface with 1000VA transformer

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    H-nuts make a better looking job if you take the time to break off about 1/3 of the radius of the flange. It keeps the flange from hanging over into the hole where the driver mounts.

    Easy to do if you have a bench vise. Just clamp the part of the flange you want to remove into the vise, then rock the nut back and forth with a long screw screwed into the threaded hole. With a little bit of rocking the flange will snap right off. Hit it a couple of licks with a file to knock off the rough edges and your done.
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    SDA 2BTL Sonicaps Mills resistors RDO-198s New gaskets H-nuts Erse inductors Crossover upgrades by westmassguy
    Adcom GTP-450 preamp
    Adcom GFA-555 amp Upgrades & speaker protection added by OldmanSRS
    Pioneer DV-610AV DVD/CD player
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    i don' know what grade cap screw. alloy steel of some kind; the only kind i could find locally in a 1" length. all i have left is the passive radiator on one speaker so getting h-nuts isn't worth it now. the h-nuts are cheap but the shipping was a lot. i saved money in the long run, but gave me the sweats working with them on vintage cabinets.

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    I have to ask, how much would have been the cost of shipping?

    i saved money in the long run,
    Time is money and aggravation is costly. By the sounds of it, you didn't save a penny........just saying.
    'Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end."

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    approx $25.00 for shipping.

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    Don't use T-nuts! I have built two subs and in both cases, one of the T-nuts popped out of the rear of the baffe, rendering them useless. The problem is once they pop out, you can't get the bolt out!

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    Quote Originally Posted by canadianicon25 View Post
    approx $25.00 for shipping.
    What? That is brutal. Or highway robbery. Below are the details of my order for h-nuts from Amazon.co. 50 per box.

    Items Ordered
    Price:$5.50 - 2 of: #8-32 Hurricane Nuts 50 Pcs.
    Condition: New
    Sold by: Parts Express

    Item(s) Subtotal: $11.00
    Shipping & Handling: $5.41
    -----
    Total before tax: $16.41
    Sales Tax: $0.00
    -----
    Total for This Shipment: $16.41
    SDA 2BTL Sonicaps Mills resistors RDO-198s New gaskets H-nuts Erse inductors Crossover upgrades by westmassguy
    Adcom GTP-450 preamp
    Adcom GFA-555 amp Upgrades & speaker protection added by OldmanSRS
    Pioneer DV-610AV DVD/CD player
    SDA CRS+ Hidden away in the closet

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    Quote Originally Posted by canadianicon25 View Post
    approx $25.00 for shipping.
    Yeah that's pretty crazy, but not as bad as the $122.00 I paid in shipping for some spikes from abroad. Sometimes you have to pay the piper to get what you want.
    'Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end."

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    Quote Originally Posted by F1nut View Post
    Yeah that's pretty crazy, but not as bad as the $122.00 I paid in shipping for some spikes from abroad. Sometimes you have to pay the piper to get what you want.
    Therein lies the problem. Of course you're more likely to pay more for spikes from abroad. Should have looked into getting them from adude.

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    Soooo if a dude looks like a lady then you must be pretty abroad minded

    Quote Originally Posted by teekay0007 View Post
    Therein lies the problem. Of course you're more likely to pay more for spikes from abroad. Should have looked into getting them from adude.

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    You guys in Canada don't have it as bad as people in Hawaii and Alaska. I had to ship an amp for repair to St Louis, MO. The shipping charge was $500 round trip. I sent a broken Denon DVD player to NJ, and that was $250 one way (they paid for the return)....

    I also bought a couple of subs and plate amps from Part Express, about 75 lbs total. That was about $500 shipping via UPS ground.

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