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  1. #61

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    Additional suggestions in bold.

    Quote Originally Posted by proffitt View Post
    Schurkey... so this is what i need here?:

    Lows:
    2 Dayton DMPC 100uF
    2 Dayton DMPC 90uF
    4 Dayton DMPC 33uF

    Highs:
    8 Mills resistors 2.7 ohm
    2 Mills resistors 1.5 ohm
    2 Mills resistors ~1.75 ohm if available
    2 Mills resistors 2.0 ohm
    2 Mills resistors 2.5 ohm

    2 Sonicaps 5.8uF
    2 12uF

    Binding posts as needed/desired. I'd install two per speaker in a heartbeat rather than hunt down an OEM blade/blade cable, if I didn't already own one.

    Self-adhesive damping material (dynamat or equivalent; I used Partsexpress damping sheets but I don't remember how many--2 or 3. Four would be PLENTY.

    I used rope caulk, available at any hardware store, to seal the drivers to the cabinets; folks are now tending to use gaskets cut from thin insulation/packing foam--Armacell brand???


    Quality solder, hot glue for securing caps after installation

    I want to make the order tomorrow morning. And you'll be able to tell me where they go?

    Install all caps and all resistors so the leads solder to the same hole in the circuit board as the one you're replacing. Do one board at a time so you have one to compare to. If the leads aren't long enough, a short bit of insulated wire will extend the leads.

    And I'll jumper the leads from the poly switch.
    and I'll replace the 4 old tweeters with 4 new 198s.

    Now still wondering what to do about the interconnect cable.

    everybody here is so helpful. Thanks, I can use it!

  2. #62

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    Quote Originally Posted by westmassguy View Post
    Chemical strippers and solvents can bleach and or discolor the wood, leave blotches. The original stain may be lifted on one area, and still remain in other areas.
    That's what I meant by unpredictable.
    I see, thanks. I've got to say that in 35+ years I've never had nor heard of that problem.

    So, you sand the exsisting finish off every piece of furniture that comes into your shop for refinishing? That would take forever, not to mention what a pain it would be, nay basically impossible to do intricate carvings, moldings, detailed turnings, etc.
    'Political Correctness'.........defined

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  3. #63

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    Quote Originally Posted by nikonik View Post
    You just missed a cable on eBay. Buy now for 32 and it was a blade/blade!
    This will be the second time i have offered a interconnect cable to him. 13' long blade/blade.

    you can always make it longer by unsoldering while you practice your soldering on it instead of your boards...

  4. #64

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    I'm placing my order now. I've read alot of back and forth on the Sonicaps... was there ever a group consensus on the Gen 1 or the Gen II for the Sonicaps?

    And Shurkey, your last line item there above adds "2 12uF". Are those Sonicaps also?

    So you're saying just install binding posts to replace the blade/blade, and what, just use standard speaker wire to replace the interconnect cable?

    Thanks!

  5. #65

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    Quote Originally Posted by pitdogg2 View Post
    This will be the second time i have offered a interconnect cable to him. 13' long blade/blade.

    you can always make it longer by unsoldering while you practice your soldering on it instead of your boards...
    Hey pitdogg2. I remembered and was going to get back to you. Just the first time around... i didn't know enough to know what an interconnect cable even was.

    I think 13 feet will be long enough for anything I'd want. But my connectors look a little suspect. Let me get into them and see. Otherwise I'm asking about the binding post idea. Thanks for keeping track. I need folks like you guys to keep me between the ditches on this.

  6. #66

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    was there ever a group consensus on the Gen 1 or the Gen II for the Sonicaps?
    You want the Gen I's, Gen II's are low values.

    your last line item there above adds "2 12uF". Are those Sonicaps also?
    Yes.

    So you're saying just install binding posts to replace the blade/blade, and what, just use standard speaker wire to replace the interconnect cable?
    I prefer Neutrik connections. You need just one per connection instead of two binding posts and it can be mounted on the binding post plate where the blade/blade socket is now.

    You can use whatever cable you want as long as there are two wires.
    'Political Correctness'.........defined

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  7. #67

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    I replaced my I/C socket with binding post, if I was to do it again I'd use something different. 90 degree XLR or nutrik <spelling? I like that those two are not exposed.

    words of advise be very careful if you go that route you could blow stuff up if not careful.

  8. #68

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    Guys -
    Should i be ordering general purpose resistors or non-inductive resistors?


    For this:
    Highs:
    8 Mills resistors 2.7 ohm
    2 Mills resistors 1.5 ohm
    2 Mills resistors ~1.75 ohm if available
    2 Mills resistors 2.0 ohm
    2 Mills resistors 2.5 ohm

  9. #69

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    Quote Originally Posted by proffitt View Post
    Guys -
    Should i be ordering general purpose resistors or non-inductive resistors?


    For this:
    Highs:
    8 Mills resistors 2.7 ohm
    2 Mills resistors 1.5 ohm
    2 Mills resistors ~1.75 ohm if available
    2 Mills resistors 2.0 ohm
    2 Mills resistors 2.5 ohm

    Can't go wrong with Mills as most here would recommend them and should be non-inductive

  10. #70

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    I prefer Neutrik connections. You need just one per connection instead of two binding posts and it can be mounted on the binding post plate where the blade/blade socket is now.


    Oh, F1nut... i like those Neutrik connections. Good idea. What cable/wire would you recommend with them?

  11. #71

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    Thanks pitdogg. Now i can order with certainty.

  12. #72

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    Shurkey-

    I'm not seeing a Mills 2.7 ohm resistor here.

    http://www.parts-express.com/brand/mills-resistor/253

    I am seeing a Dayton 2.7 one here

    http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=004-2.7

    But the Mills are all 12W and the Dayton is 10W. Is it ok to mix the brands and the power rating?

  13. #73

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    Since you have to order the Sonicap caps from Sonic Craft, order the Mills from them as well. The Mills are non-inductive.

    Oh, F1nut... i like those Neutrik connections. Good idea. What cable/wire would you recommend with them?
    I use MIT Shotgun cable. You'll pick something else.
    'Political Correctness'.........defined

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  14. #74

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    Quote Originally Posted by proffitt View Post
    Shurkey-

    I'm not seeing a Mills 2.7 ohm resistor here.

    http://www.parts-express.com/brand/mills-resistor/253

    I am seeing a Dayton 2.7 one here

    http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=004-2.7

    But the Mills are all 12W and the Dayton is 10W. Is it ok to mix the brands and the power rating?
    The Dayton-style ceramic-block resistors are what I used. I don't remember if I actually bought Daytons or a competing product from ERSE. Either way, they're huge ceramic blocks. Given a choice, I would NOT use them again. They are twice the physical size of the Mills, and difficult to place on the circuit board. I had to solder some to the underside of the board to have enough room. PITA. I think the original resistors were 5-watt, no problem using 10- or 12-watt replacements.

    Quote Originally Posted by proffitt View Post
    And Shurkey, your last line item there above adds "2 12uF". Are those Sonicaps also?
    The 2 12uF is a direct quote from YOUR posts, #45 and #49.

    "I" would not pay for Sonicaps. I used 1% tolerance Daytons on the HF board, 5% Daytons and 3% ERSE on the LF boards. 1% tolerance Dayton part numbers start with PMPC rather than DMPC; and the end caps are white instead of yellow.

    For example:
    http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=027-246

    No 5.8uF cap in the PMPC line, a 5.6 is close enough.
    http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=027-234

    Quote Originally Posted by proffitt View Post
    So you're saying just install binding posts to replace the blade/blade, and what, just use standard speaker wire to replace the interconnect cable?
    Quote Originally Posted by Schurkey View Post
    If I didn't have the OEM SDA cable, I'd add two regular binding posts to each speaker, four total, and then use ordinary speaker wire rather than try to find the original-style cable ends.
    Last edited by Schurkey; 11-19-2012 at 07:02 PM.

  15. #75

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    All,
    thanks so much for all the help. I've made my order for the 4 tweeters, the sonicaps, the neutrik connectors to make the interconnect, fabric, posts for actual speaker connections.

    I also have the speaker cabinets torn down to thier bare minimums. They look like show dogs just out of the bath. Ever notice how a great dog is still embarassed when he gets out of the bath.... funny! anyway, they look naked and baren with no clothes and no components. I'll post pics of this stage soon. This is the low point. Only better from here.

    The side strips of wood sanded up nicely. Like glass actually, and with the grain wash "wetting" them, i can tell they are going to look amazing with stain and poly. I will give a warning... if you are sanding these, BE CAREFUL sanding. the veneer is very thin and and edges and corners are susceptible to sanding through and showing thin lighter spots.

    just a mid project THANK YOU to all of you for your input. I hope to be helping some with my pics and info, because I know I'm getting more than my share of help from the group. Sorry if i seem to be going in circles sometimes. Just coming up to speed and this all. I really appreciate all of your help.

  16. #76

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    The side strips of wood sanded up nicely. Like glass actually, and with the grain wash "wetting" them, i can tell they are going to look amazing with stain and poly. I will give a warning... if you are sanding these, BE CAREFUL sanding. the veneer is very thin and and edges and corners are susceptible to sanding through and showing thin lighter spots.
    That's another reason to use stripper and NOT sand the finish off. What did you wet the strip with?
    'Political Correctness'.........defined

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  17. #77

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    F1- what stripper do you use. Redoing my kitchen cabinet doors right now and having a hard time outside due to temps being a little on the low side. 45-55. I painted them when we bought the house and now want to get down to bare wood and stain and prob will do a satin poly since I have no experience with spray guns or other finishes.

  18. #78

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    stripped with Klean Strip KS3 Stripper. Wash is the Klean Stip After Wash of the same Barr brand. After wash is supposed to remove any residual stripper and neutralize the stripper. I don't know if the wash worked as intended yet, but the stripper, bought at home depot, worked just great.

    After the stripper, i used a wire brush to clean it up. Where the scraping of the stripper left a glaze, i brushed it off. Then sanded. Came out great, prior to staining.

  19. #79

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    Quote Originally Posted by TNHNDYMAN View Post
    F1- what stripper do you use. Redoing my kitchen cabinet doors right now and having a hard time outside due to temps being a little on the low side. 45-55. I painted them when we bought the house and now want to get down to bare wood and stain and prob will do a satin poly since I have no experience with spray guns or other finishes.
    At those temperatures, you're going to have a problem with any of them. Got a basement or garage?

    I've found the best general purpose stripper is the original Strypeeze. For those slightly tougher finishes, Kwik Marine works well and for those really tough finishes, Klean-Strip Aircraft.

    The following is more for amusement, do NOT try this unless you really know what you are doing and are half crazy because nothing else has worked. If you want to remove 20 coats of old rock hard paint really, really fast use the Aircraft stripper followed immediately with generous amounts of freshly mixed lye applied with a long handled mop. You need to do this outside, keep your distance and wear the proper safety gear because as soon as the lye hits the stripper things start sizzling, crackling and smoking. It's quite a sight!
    'Political Correctness'.........defined

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  20. #80

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    next question for the group. For the interconnect, I am going with F1nut's suggestion on the neutrics connections for the cabinets. Looking at the speaker wire for the interconnect... what is the proper spec'd wire size? Is 16 gauge sufficient for this application? Or should i go with 14 gauge? Or other?

  21. #81

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    Quote Originally Posted by F1nut View Post
    I prefer Neutrik connections. You need just one per connection instead of two binding posts and it can be mounted on the binding post plate where the blade/blade socket is now.

    You can use whatever cable you want as long as there are two wires.
    Quote Originally Posted by proffitt View Post
    next question for the group. For the interconnect, I am going with F1nut's suggestion on the neutrics connections for the cabinets.
    http://www.neutrik.us/en-us/audio/

    Neutrik is a brand, not a product. Neutrik sells dozens of different types of connectors. WHICH Neutrik product do you recommend/plan to install? XLR? speakON? Something else?


    Quote Originally Posted by proffitt View Post
    Looking at the speaker wire for the interconnect... what is the proper spec'd wire size? Is 16 gauge sufficient for this application? Or should i go with 14 gauge? Or other?
    Agreed: Must have TWO conductors for blade/blade.

    I think OEM was 18- or 16-gauge. IF I were going this route, I'd be looking for 14- or 12-gauge "just because". Realistically, the expected current delivery and relatively short length make larger gauge size not so important. Of course, cables are more than just gauge size. It's all about LCR + noise; and for some, "magic" as indicated by profit margin to retailer.
    Last edited by Schurkey; 11-20-2012 at 11:31 AM.

  22. #82

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    Sorry, thought it was obvious. speakON would be the line to use. Out of those you can pick the series.
    'Political Correctness'.........defined

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  23. #83

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    ok, all parts on order now. Shipments coming in from Polk, Parts Express and Sonic Craft.

    Cost so far is about $200 for 4 new RDO198 tweeters.
    and about $250 for fabric, particle board, caps, resistors, interconnect cable, cabinet connectors,

    I have about four hours into it so far. I'm guessing about 2 more hours of cabinet work.
    I have no idea how much more time I'll need to make the electrical mods, but it looks like 1.5 hours per speaker. Best give me 2 hours each, total 4 more hours of work there.

    Initial cost of speakers = $50
    Materials = $450
    Time= priceless

    Do you think $500 is a good price for this set of Polk SDA SRS 2 modded with tweeter upgrades and crossover upgrades? I hope so. Regardless, its been fun so far, and i haven't even started putting them back together yet. Nor is hearing them on my radar screen yet. Anxious!

  24. #84

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    Quote Originally Posted by proffitt View Post
    next question for the group. For the interconnect, I am going with F1nut's suggestion on the neutrics connections for the cabinets. Looking at the speaker wire for the interconnect... what is the proper spec'd wire size? Is 16 gauge sufficient for this application? Or should i go with 14 gauge? Or other?
    If it were me I'd go with 12ga. good copper wire ...in other words no home depot or anything else like it.

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    Initial cost of speakers = $50
    Materials = $450
    Time= priceless

    Do you think $500 is a good price for this set of Polk SDA SRS 2 modded with tweeter upgrades and crossover upgrades? I hope so. Regardless, its been fun so far, and i haven't even started putting them back together yet. Nor is hearing them on my radar screen yet. Anxious![/QUOTE]

    Great deal, and awesome that you are sharing this with us. You are doing just fine man!. Keep up the good work, keep us posted, and share pictures.

    Priceless, yes absolutely.

    Polk Audio SDA CRS+ (4.1TL by Trey, Larry's Rings)-
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  26. #86

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    I pulled the trigger already. I had done some further looking and found a recommendation that if the length is expected to be 50 ft or greater, 14 guage. If shorter, 16guage will suffice. I'm doing 25 ft cable. So bumped the AWG on up(down?) to 14 guage.

  27. #87

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    Click image for larger version

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ID:	77566

    I'm at the bottom of my inverted bell curve with these speakers. Up until now, it been about taking them from real working (albeit very needy) speakers, and converting them into two piles... a pile of garbage, and a pile of working parts. The center of my pile of working parts are what I've started referring to as the "inner" boxes. Its interesting to note that these speakers have inner enclosures that only the rear surface is visible in their completed form. The top, bottom and three other sides, are ALL covered with cosmetic only surfaces. Of course they add some strength and certainly some mass, but the sealed enclosure is not visible at all in the finished product (except the rear).

    Click image for larger version

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    Here are the narrow side strips sanded and ready for stain. Under them are the bottom caps, before sanding (I have stripped the edges.).

    Click image for larger version

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    They are hard as rock and smooth as glass.

  28. #88

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    I'm doing 25 ft cable.
    Why that long, 10 feet would be plently.
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  29. #89

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    I thought 10 ft. might be limiting in future possible set ups. Next size up i could find was 25. I would have done a 15 if I could have found it. My theatre room is 14.5 feet by 40 feet (9 ft ceilings). they are going on the 14.5 foot wall, so you are right. But i was planning on coiling up the extra. That's a lot of resistance to waste in a coil. Maybe I'll get a 10 ft too.

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    Quote Originally Posted by proffitt View Post
    I thought 10 ft. might be limiting in future possible set ups. Next size up i could find was 25. I would have done a 15 if I could have found it. My theatre room is 14.5 feet by 40 feet (9 ft ceilings). they are going on the 14.5 foot wall, so you are right. But i was planning on coiling up the extra. That's a lot of resistance to waste in a coil. Maybe I'll get a 10 ft too.
    Bad idea, never coil up speaker wires or in this case interconnect wires doing so basically turns them into inductors. Just loop the extra back and forth. I believe the original blade/Blade and Pin/Blade IC's were 20ft long.

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