SDA SRS 2 need CPR and ICU life support

[helipilotdoug]

The badges do look very nice, and to me add to the overall look of the SRS II speakers. Don't know how hard they would be to find though. Here is a photo of what you need.

[PolkieMan]

You can get the normal Polk Audio ones like on 1C's on Ebay, but lots of luck with the SRS badges. But that would look a lot better than nothing.

should i rebadge these with the Polk emblem, or leave them naked? Any idea if Polk, or anybody has them emblems for sale? The emblems were obviously missing when i took them in.

[Schurkey]

The badges do look very nice, and to me add to the overall look of the SRS II speakers. Don't know how hard they would be to find though. Here is a photo of what you need.
Attachment 78484

A different photo--straight on instead of at an angle, high-resolution and "large"--could be taken to a trophy or signage shop, digitized and scaled to proper dimensions, and re-created in metal (brass, I think, but there may be options). Would also need the dimensions of the existing plaque.

Are there legal or ethical ramifications of reproducing a company logo along with a person's signature?

If the brass was glued to a steel backing, a magnet on the inside of the fabric could hold it in position on the speakers.

OR

Has anyone called Polk Customer Service? Maybe they're still available. If they're NOT available, can we get permission to reproduce the thing?

[PolkieMan]

That's a good idea to get some made, group buy!

A different photo--straight on instead of at an angle, high-resolution and "large"--could be taken to a trophy or signage shop, digitized and scaled to proper dimensions, and re-created in metal (brass, I think, but there may be options). Would also need the dimensions of the existing plaque.

Are there legal or ethical ramifications of reproducing a company logo along with a person's signature?

If the brass was glued to a steel backing, a magnet on the inside of the fabric could hold it in position on the speakers.

OR

Has anyone called Polk Customer Service? Maybe they're still available. If they're NOT available, can we get permission to reproduce the thing?

[ken brydson]

[QUOTE= If they're NOT available, can we get permission to reproduce the thing?[/QUOTE]

Doesn't look like reproducing logos is a big issue...http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/show...Christmas-Time!!

[Toolfan66]

Doesn't look like reproducing logos is a big issue...http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/show...Christmas-Time!!

Keep in mind I'm not selling them..

I did get permission to reproduce the crossover plates for the big boy SDA's 1.2/1.2tl's a few years ago and sold them here..

[PolkieMan]

I would like to do a decorative plate like that crossover plate for my 2.3tls. Always thought that they looked bare and plain with the front cover grille removed

[Schurkey]

My 1Bs are coming apart Friday of this week for SDA inductor upgrade. Looks like I'll be building wiring diagrams for future use.

Project started early, diagrams and notes are in-progress. I can answer the main question now, however.

I DO NOT REMEMBER, but will take a guess: The SDA color codes are intended to be crossed--white from one cabinet connects to blue or black in the other cabinet.

Each 1B and SRS 2 Blade/blade LF crossover sends a full-range, full-voltage signal through the SDA cable to the other cabinet. That's why there's two conductors in the Blade/Blade SDA interconnect--Left channel signal goes to right channel, right channel signal goes to left channel. When the opposite-channel signal enters the cabinet, it's directed into the 185uF capacitors, and delivered to the NEGATIVE side of the SDA mid-woofers.

I'd expect the wire colors to switch.

I'll verify Friday.

^^^^CONFIRMED.

SDA Cable
Wired large blade to large blade; small blade to small blade.
Each conductor has approx. 0.1 ohms from blade to blade.

SDA Sockets
Large blade (blue wire) on top of small blade (white wire) = Right channel cabinet

Small blade (black wire) on top of large blade (white wire) = Left channel cabinet

SDA circuit is therefore blue wire (signal) in right cabinet connected to white wire (goes to 185uF capacitor) in left cabinet; Black wire (signal) in left cabinet connected to white wire (goes to 185uF capacitor) in right cabinet.

I connected the white to negative post on each neutrik, and the blue/black to the positive on each. Even if this was wrong, it'd still be fine if I got them BOTH reversed. Because the cable doesn't care. It could only be wrong if the wire colors were supposed to be crossed.... Blue on one speaker attached to white on the other and vice versa.

Yup, that's gonna be a problem. You will have to re-wire those Neutrik connectors.

[proffitt]

Wow Schurkey... That's great news. That'll be the easiest fix. Thanks soooo much for looking. Hopefully I'll be into some real SDA SRS sound this evening. One quick clarifi action. The caps you mention are in the crossovers, right? There are no caps or components built into the ic cable right? I bought these without the ic cable and have never seen one. Just making sure there's not some kind of circircuitry built into the cable itself. Don't think so... But I would never have known.

[Schurkey]

Wow Schurkey... That's great news. That'll be the easiest fix. Thanks soooo much for looking. Hopefully I'll be into some real SDA SRS sound this evening. One quick clarifi action. The caps you mention are in the crossovers, right? There are no caps or components built into the ic cable right? I bought these without the ic cable and have never seen one. Just making sure there's not some kind of circircuitry built into the cable itself. Don't think so... But I would never have known.

No circuitry in the cable. The caps are on the LF crossover.

[PolkieMan]

Digital Cameras are our friends

[proffitt]

Ok... So thinking this through, and if that discussed was my only problem, then I just need to swap the wires on the inside of ONE of my interconnect connectors. Leave one as is and swap the wires on the other one. And it shouldn't matter which one I swap.... Right?

[proffitt]

Ok... Went with it. There's high piano notes coming from the corner of my room were there is no speaker! 3 feet to the right of the right speaker. Hour 1 of burn in.... Not added any serious volume yet. Maybe later this evening.

[PolkieMan]

That's true but then again you want to take the time to be true to wiring diagram so if you need to go in couple years later or sell them you know that they are factory correct. So are you going to post more pictures?

Ok... So thinking this through, and if that discussed was my only problem, then I just need to swap the wires on the inside of ONE of my interconnect connectors. Leave one as is and swap the wires on the other one. And it shouldn't matter which one I swap.... Right?

[proffitt]

Certainly. I have lots. What requests? I should get more up tomorrow.

[PolkieMan]

Before and after are cool I think.
There's high piano notes coming from the corner of my room were there is no speaker!
sometimes I have to look to make sure I am still in two channel mode because it sounds like the center and the surrounds are on.

Certainly. I have lots. What requests? I should get more up tomorrow.

[proffitt]

Question for all... On the burn in period for the components. I know it takes something like 200 to 400 hours to really "season". Does the volume level matter in this? Does it need to be really driving or just on and at low volume? At lower volume longer and higher volume shorter? Or is that inconsequential?

[drumminman]

I don't know if there's a scientific basis, but I usually apply some juice during burn in. Seems like you want some decent current running through the Xover to settle down all the new components. That's the way I do it.

Just MHO though.

[vmaxer]

Great thread

[PolkieMan]

Kinda make you think Hmmmm....If I buy these new speakers how much different will they sound 6 months from now and audio reviewers don't have the time so how can they be subjective in their reviews? Right? You know I'm right

Question for all... On the burn in period for the components. I know it takes something like 200 to 400 hours to really "season". Does the volume level matter in this? Does it need to be really driving or just on and at low volume? At lower volume longer and higher volume shorter? Or is that inconsequential?

[PolkieMan]

http://taralabs.com/cascade

The Cascade Noise / Burn in disc

Although there have been other “burn-in” test discs used by audiophiles in the past, the discs have mostly been a mix of pink noise and sweep test tones. The new CASCADE noise burn-in disc is a proprietary combination of white noise with frequency tone bursts and pink noise mixed at different levels. However, what makes it really effective is a series of descending and ascending (cascading) multi-octave square sweeps for better and more complete results than any other “burn-in” discs that have been made to date. The CASCADE noise burn-in disc may be used with audio electronic component and with audio cable including cables with attachments such as batteries or filter networks. Before and after results will be obvious with any of these cables.

[proffitt]

All,
Its been a while since I posted progress, things ground to a halt with the holidays and kids/santa, football watching etc. But I found time this last week to competely finish the speakers. Here are some before and afters:
I went from this:

To this:

[proffitt]

You remember from page 1 that the previous owner had a pet lynx?


Today, they are near mint condition like this:

[TNHNDYMAN]

Those look great. Nice job!

[proffitt]

In addition to turning his lynx loose on my SDA SRS2s, the previous owner was obviously a pipe fitter by trade and used the top of the speakers as a work bench and brazing/welding station.


But after gluing splits, clamping, planing, sanding, staining, sanding, staining, sanding, poly, sanding, poly, and rubbing... they are now looking awesome:

[proffitt]

Here they are with their clothes off... ahhhh speaker porn!






In addition to the exterior wood (tops, bottoms, & sides), new fabric (6 panels)....,
I've also replaced the tweeters with new RDO198s.
New armacell gaskets on all drivers and PRs.
New Speakon Neutric connectors for Interconnect cable.
New binding posts.
Replaced all Caps with Daytons or Sonic Craft, all resistors with new Wills, and removed and jumpered the polyswitch.
Dynamat treatment on all drivers and PRs.
Repositioned and fluffed up the polyfil to a higher position in the cabinet.

They sound incredible.

[proffitt]

So I guess I am winding this thread down....

Its been a journey.

I want to thank all of you for your help, assistance, advice and support. Especially to:
Schurkey
F1Nut
Polkieman
HelipilotDoug
evhudson
Pitdogg
drumminman

You guys were all a great help, and I couldn't have done it without you.

To those that followed and didn't comment, (looks like over 5000 hits) I learned A LOT!!! in this effort. And if anyone wants to take this type project on and is questioning if you can do it.... go for it! And if I can ever help anyone, I'm anxious to repay the favors I've been shown. I hope my posting of sometimes too many details can make it even easier for the next newby.

Signing off to go add hours to my burn-in time, with a big smile. Up to about 20 hours now... niiiice.

[Hofy]

A true rags to riches thread.
This should be stickyed just for all the information contained and the true comradery of the members on this board.
I have saved this thread and printed it out in case I ever get lucky enough to find some basket case Polks in the future.

Thank you proffitt!

[geoff727]

Looking very clean & classy. Glad to see another SRS 2 given a new lease on life. Nice!

[bikezappa]

They look great. How do you like the sound?