RDO194 tweeters

[DracoAmericanus]

I have two rdo194 tweeters with open voice coils, they are from an SDA1b i believe and this is the second dime this has happened, may have been my fault but my question is are they rebuild-able ? i notice they are easy to dismantle
is the done and voice coil available as a replacement part?
it's possible my polyfuse is bad too and was wondering what the value of that device is?
thanks

[20hz]

if this happened twice its possible you are driving that amp to hard thus distortion is coming with it , those 504s are plenty of amp but if you are trying to get 120db from those polks I dont think it will for long , I heard FOR TESTING you can bypass the polyfuse
they wear out like all fuses/lights do

[F1nut]

The parts of the tweeters are not available, just the entire unit.

Your polyswitch is spec'd as a RDE090A. You should be able to find replacements online, Polk no longer offers them.

That said, a bad polyswitch in and of itself isn't going to cause your tweeters to go bad. In fact, when a polyswitch goes bad it trips too early shutting down the tweeters at lower than usual levels. As 20hz suggested and I concur, you're overdriving your amps.

[soundfreak1]

If. (as u have said) is the second time as said u r prob cranking it to hard for the amps and driving them into distortion. Suggust u consider bigger higher currant amps that wont distort at higher power and volume levels or TURN IT DOWN!!!!LOL those amps have plenty of power for the speakers but if u have to crank it that far they may not be yhe right onea "for you" and your listening habits. With better amps u may not have to turn it up so much to hear them proform . Also if all those speakers are in the same room (it must be a huge room) if u feel u need to crank it up high enough to blow tweets, or you are deaf. Just as a guide once u go past say the 10:00 possition on your volume u r prob into distortion already (not exact just a guide).

[DracoAmericanus]

I think I know what happened, i found the polyfuse had been "upgraded" :( to a power resistor and the tweeters where wired backwards, white wire to positive terminal my avr upped the high end to compensate for the out of phase hook up. I am going to check all the other drivers as well after finding this. I must have been drunk, tired, or forgot to check to see if the wiring was correct when i first replaced the original sl series tweeters that the former owner had damaged. I got these at a thrift store expecting to need some repair, oh well.

[DracoAmericanus]

I have a few other questions i hope i can get help with, does any one know the specs for the RDO194 as in it's power and response?
instead of a polyfuse that had been missing in mine i went with a fast blow 1 amp fuse. What is the safe rms value the tweeters can handle?
As to others questions, yes i am hearing impaired, and 2, I am not running my system into clipping, that has been checked with an O-scope and i am not bottoming out the main drivers. I am sure if this system had been stock this would not have happened and as every one knows the amp i use has no power meters so i built a Velleman k8098 meter that gives me some feed back.
I only run at full power during some music and movies, that gives me about 100 db at my sitting position

[DracoAmericanus]

Ok another question, would 20 watts RMS be a safe value for the RDO194 ?

[Face]

They woofers don't have to be bottoming out for you to clip your amps.

20 watts RMS should be safe for the tweeters.

When the polys were replaced, was anything else in the crossover modded? Possibly the stock crossover isn't working correctly and you're sending too low of frequencies to the tweeter.

[DracoAmericanus]

I am currently trying to figure that out, it will be connected to a better spectrum meter soon, at high power drive i so see a very little activity bellow 500 hz , it's very low in amplitude, so maybe a crossover overhaul in my future?
I did see some very low activity at about 63 hz but was level was so low i thought nothing of it until now :(

I do know there is a 1 or 2 ohm 5 watt resistor in place of where the polys where, heck they may even have been .7 ohm. everything else looked oem

[F1nut]

I do know there is a 1 or 2 ohm 5 watt resistor in place of where the polys where, heck they may even have been .7 ohm.

You really need to figure out exactly what value resistor you have in them.

Replacing the poly with a .5 ohm, 12 watt Mills resistor is a common practice to compensate for the resistance of the poly after removing it as the polys are problematic. A 1 or 2 ohm resistor is too much.

instead of a polyfuse that had been missing in mine i went with a fast blow 1 amp fuse.

Why?

Did you leave the resistor in place with the new fuse you added?

I only run at full power during some music and movies, that gives me about 100 db at my sitting position

What do you mean by full power? If you are maxing out the volume, your amps are clipping.

[DracoAmericanus]

Yes of course i left the resistor in place and full power is at almost reference with out distortion, I am not maxing out the volume. I still have overhead, I guess full power was not an accurate statement my apologizes

[DracoAmericanus]

Yes of course i left the resistor in place and and i added the fuse due to the poly fuse being NLA, it can be easily undone. I just wanted some form of over load protection as i have seen spikes from the M-117 above 600 watts.
full power is at almost reference with out distortion, I am not maxing out the volume. I still have overhead, I guess full power was not an accurate statement my apologizes

[F1nut]

Yes of course i left the resistor in place and and i added the fuse due to the poly fuse being NLA

Ok, in that case you really need to figure out what value resistor is in there as adding the fuse will add some resistance as well. More than .5 ohms will attenuate the tweeter too much.

BTW, that polyswitch is still available, just not from Polk. The number is RDE090A.

i have seen spikes from the M-117 above 600 watts.

I didn't think it was capable of that power.

[F1nut]

Ok, found the specs.

Luxman's specs:
200X2 @ 8ohms
700X1 @ 8ohms
Dynamic power: 300 @ 8, 550 @ 4, 820 @ 2
THD at rated power: 0.03%
IM distortion (SMPTE) @ 200w: 0.007%
Peak short circuit current: 150 amps
Slew rate: 20v/uSec
Damping factor: 130
>60,000uf capacitance

It does not indicate a 4 ohm rating, but perhaps the specs I found are not complete. Do you know if it is rated to drive a 4 ohm load such as your 1B's? You really have to ignore the dynamic power ratings, they are rather meaningless.

[DracoAmericanus]

Yes it can drive 4 ohm loads , the manual seems to have ratings down to two ohms, i highly doubt the impedance curve drops that low on the speakers. I ended up seeing the 600 watt pulse with some equipment i had connected at the time, and it was a pulse not RMS power
thank you for the part number on the poly fuse, would a company like parts express have that?