Buy Direct M-F 9am - 10:30pm EST 1-866-764-1801
Vist our Online Store2-Channel:
Source 1: PC/foobar2000/ASIO
Source 2: Rega Apollo CDP
USB to SPDIF Converter: Stello U3
DAC: Audio GD NFB-7
Preamp: Audio Research LS-15
Power Amp: BAT VK-500
Speakers: Magnepan 3.7's
HT:
Sources: HTPC, FiOS, Oppo 103
Pre/Pro: Marantz av8003
Amp: Rotel RMB-1095
Speakers: LSiM-703's, 702's, 704c
Subs: Dual SVS PC12-NSD's
TV: Panny 55" VT50
IMO the sound quality of JRiver is leaps and bounds better than Mediamonkey. I used mm for quite a while. In addition, you have so many more options for organizing and customization. Consider it does bit perfect ripping, file conversion and has the option of room correction. You do get quite a bit of value for $50.
2-Channel:
Source 1: PC/foobar2000/ASIO
Source 2: Rega Apollo CDP
USB to SPDIF Converter: Stello U3
DAC: Audio GD NFB-7
Preamp: Audio Research LS-15
Power Amp: BAT VK-500
Speakers: Magnepan 3.7's
HT:
Sources: HTPC, FiOS, Oppo 103
Pre/Pro: Marantz av8003
Amp: Rotel RMB-1095
Speakers: LSiM-703's, 702's, 704c
Subs: Dual SVS PC12-NSD's
TV: Panny 55" VT50
The driver is just an interface, there are still other things going on in the software that can affect sound.
I can't comment on the two programs here, but on the Mac platform I have Amarra, BitPerfect, and Audirvana Plus all that send bit perfect data into my DAC and all sound very different.
I think the phrase bit perfect is thrown around too loosely, I don't know that there is such a thing and if there is I don't know how we can know for sure that it exists.
How's that for some Friday morning existentialism for ya...
Main HT
Magnepan 1.6QR fronts, PSB Image B4 surrounds, Pioneer SC-25, Parasound Halo A23, Oppo BDP-83 SE, Airport Express w/ Peachtree DAC, Sony KDL-55HX850, Sony PS3, Apple TV
Bedroom System
Polk Blackstone TL3, Polk PSWi225 Wireless Sub, HK 3490 Integrated, Oppo BDP-83, Sharp Aquos 32" TV, Apple TV
Office Rig
27" iMac w/Amarra, Peachtree DAC-IT, Focal XS Book, Schiit Valhalla > Sennheiser HD600, Schiit Lyr > HiFiMan HE0500, LG 47LM7600, Sony PS3, XBOX 360, Apple TV
"He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
2-Channel:
Source 1: PC/foobar2000/ASIO
Source 2: Rega Apollo CDP
USB to SPDIF Converter: Stello U3
DAC: Audio GD NFB-7
Preamp: Audio Research LS-15
Power Amp: BAT VK-500
Speakers: Magnepan 3.7's
HT:
Sources: HTPC, FiOS, Oppo 103
Pre/Pro: Marantz av8003
Amp: Rotel RMB-1095
Speakers: LSiM-703's, 702's, 704c
Subs: Dual SVS PC12-NSD's
TV: Panny 55" VT50
Ok Mr. Face, I got another one for you:
I am currently using a 1.0 ohm resistor in the tweeter attenuator portion of the crossover on my 3.7's. Do you think that digital EQ'ing at the PC would be even less obtrusive to SQ; meaning, would I be better off putting a good jumper in the tweeter attenutor spot and addressing frequency response issues up front on the PC???
TLDR: what degrades SQ more: a physical resistor in the crossover or digital EQ'ing at the PC level?
Last edited by falconcry72; 01-04-2013 at 01:00 PM.
2-Channel:
Source 1: PC/foobar2000/ASIO
Source 2: Rega Apollo CDP
USB to SPDIF Converter: Stello U3
DAC: Audio GD NFB-7
Preamp: Audio Research LS-15
Power Amp: BAT VK-500
Speakers: Magnepan 3.7's
HT:
Sources: HTPC, FiOS, Oppo 103
Pre/Pro: Marantz av8003
Amp: Rotel RMB-1095
Speakers: LSiM-703's, 702's, 704c
Subs: Dual SVS PC12-NSD's
TV: Panny 55" VT50
The DIY crowd have been reclocking I2S before handing it off the DAC to reduce jitter. They test for bit perfect but reducing jitter is the goal.
Mike, can you swap DSD channels in JRiver like you can in foobar? DSD swaps R and L channel from I2S. If you can do it in software, it saves a digital switching solution to correct the swap.
Make yourself necessary to someone. Ralph Waldo Emerson
InnerSound Eros Mk III (Hybrid ESL's)
InnerSound Mk II Active Crossover Bass Amp
Sanders ESL Amp (Panels)
Krell KSL Pre w/ KSL Phono
Squeezebox Touch / Welborne Labs PS / I2S Out Mod
Denon 3910 I2S/DSD Out Mod
Twisted Pear Buffalo III Dual Mono ESS Sabre32 DAC
Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive
AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm
Dynavector 17D3
Shunyata Hydra (Original)
GIK Acoustic Treatments
CP Showcase
you guys got me so lost, lol i like the v-link 192 and am curious to know why FLAC is better than WMA if they are both lossless, an external DAC will come when i get my PC and my HK 3490 together, and i see a lot of people upgrade their units to a detachable, how simple is it to do that to my AVR, and for the present i will use a free service, and i see you guys are in a bit of disagreement to the best one is, but i think the suggested to me as being easiest to use will be a good way to familiarize myself with some of this stuff, thanks you guys, i will check out the shops in seatle suggested to me by zingo, to see if they have the v-link, and if they dont order one in march when my vacation is over
HT/2channel:
AVR: yamaha RX-V 765
Fronts: polk rti4
sub: polk psw110
Center: CS13
surrounds: sony bookshelf(soon to be Def-Tech ProMonitor 800)
TV: samsung 40
The real 2 Channel(work in progress):
Receiver:HK 3490
Subs:2x Polk PSW 505
Speakers: YTD
most of my comments are passing on of info, im a noob, im just trying to help how i can, if im wrong or out of place to comment, dont hesitate to let me know :)
"its better to regret something you did, than something you didn't"
Have you tried using the pure direct setting on the rx-v765? It should minimize the amount of processing that is done to the signal (unfortunately bass management is one of those things).
As far as I know there shouldn't be a difference between lossless formats, maybe other than cpu overhead and player compatibility. Converting between lossless formats shouldn't cause any decreases in quality.
Since you plan on getting a DAC in the future, consider skipping the v-link and putting the cash toward a DAC that supports asynchronous USB. It seems to be a feature that is becoming more common in entry level DACs.
2.1: Musical Fidelity V-DACII>Yaqin MC-10L w/SED =C= EL34, Voskhod 6N1P-EV>polkaudio RT25i, PSW202
5.1: ATI HD5850 HDMI Bitstreaming>Denon AVR-1910>polkaudio RT7, CS350-LS, RT3, PSW505, Sony Bravia KDL-52W3000
HT/2channel:
AVR: yamaha RX-V 765
Fronts: polk rti4
sub: polk psw110
Center: CS13
surrounds: sony bookshelf(soon to be Def-Tech ProMonitor 800)
TV: samsung 40
The real 2 Channel(work in progress):
Receiver:HK 3490
Subs:2x Polk PSW 505
Speakers: YTD
most of my comments are passing on of info, im a noob, im just trying to help how i can, if im wrong or out of place to comment, dont hesitate to let me know :)
"its better to regret something you did, than something you didn't"
I want to get more serious about building my music library on my PC and I see many recommendations for JRiver and a good DAC. If I am presently only using the sound card, does JRiver make sense? Also, I see recommendations against using JRiver for MP3's. Why?
Thanks
Stan
Stan
Main 2ch:
Polk RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades)
Denon: DRA-835R, DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i
HT:
Denon AVR-888, Polk: RM7, PSW10
Other stuff:
Denon: DRA-825R, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A & 5B, TSi100; Pioneer CT-6R, PL-530; Ortofon OM5E
I would think regardless of how your sending the music out JRiver would be a good choice. Your source file and playback program are the beginning of the chain, so if they are low quality, no matter what other gear you have upstream from it (soundcard, speakers, etc) wont make that big a difference.
There exists, for everyone, a sentence - a series of words - that has the power to destroy you. Another sentence exists, another series of words, that could heal you. If you're lucky you will get the 2nd, but you can be certain of getting the 1st. - Philip K. Dick
Advice is free, the Flea Market is earned - F1Nut
My Sales Rating > 10
I have no idea why that would be. JRiver should be able to decode mp3 just as well as any other format.
2.1: Musical Fidelity V-DACII>Yaqin MC-10L w/SED =C= EL34, Voskhod 6N1P-EV>polkaudio RT25i, PSW202
5.1: ATI HD5850 HDMI Bitstreaming>Denon AVR-1910>polkaudio RT7, CS350-LS, RT3, PSW505, Sony Bravia KDL-52W3000
2-Channel:
Source 1: PC/foobar2000/ASIO
Source 2: Rega Apollo CDP
USB to SPDIF Converter: Stello U3
DAC: Audio GD NFB-7
Preamp: Audio Research LS-15
Power Amp: BAT VK-500
Speakers: Magnepan 3.7's
HT:
Sources: HTPC, FiOS, Oppo 103
Pre/Pro: Marantz av8003
Amp: Rotel RMB-1095
Speakers: LSiM-703's, 702's, 704c
Subs: Dual SVS PC12-NSD's
TV: Panny 55" VT50
Thanks for the clarification. I plan to convert CD's to FLAC but some music I only have in mp3 format (for now).
Stan
Main 2ch:
Polk RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades)
Denon: DRA-835R, DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i
HT:
Denon AVR-888, Polk: RM7, PSW10
Other stuff:
Denon: DRA-825R, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A & 5B, TSi100; Pioneer CT-6R, PL-530; Ortofon OM5E
2-Channel:
Source 1: PC/foobar2000/ASIO
Source 2: Rega Apollo CDP
USB to SPDIF Converter: Stello U3
DAC: Audio GD NFB-7
Preamp: Audio Research LS-15
Power Amp: BAT VK-500
Speakers: Magnepan 3.7's
HT:
Sources: HTPC, FiOS, Oppo 103
Pre/Pro: Marantz av8003
Amp: Rotel RMB-1095
Speakers: LSiM-703's, 702's, 704c
Subs: Dual SVS PC12-NSD's
TV: Panny 55" VT50
I am in the same boat, some of the music I have in MP3 is the only format I can ever get it in as I have lost/discarded the original CD or never had it to begin with.
So in my main rig I have a combined library of all the CD's I did still have in FLAC, and now buy ONLY CD's to rip to FLAC so moving forward I am good. However I did add in all the compressed MP3's that I cant find elsewhere into that system simply because lots of those are songs I dont listen to critically but more for fun.
I mean who cares if you are listening to Nelly's Party People lossless or MP3 lol, either way your cranking it for the bassline and to nod your head and bounce along to the beat hehehe....
There exists, for everyone, a sentence - a series of words - that has the power to destroy you. Another sentence exists, another series of words, that could heal you. If you're lucky you will get the 2nd, but you can be certain of getting the 1st. - Philip K. Dick
Advice is free, the Flea Market is earned - F1Nut
My Sales Rating > 10
What do you guys use for ripping vinyl to FLAC?
Stan
Main 2ch:
Polk RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades)
Denon: DRA-835R, DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i
HT:
Denon AVR-888, Polk: RM7, PSW10
Other stuff:
Denon: DRA-825R, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A & 5B, TSi100; Pioneer CT-6R, PL-530; Ortofon OM5E
i also still have a bunch of music in mp3 or other compressed type files, but i have a playlist composed of all my lossless files and one of the stuff i like the most,
HT/2channel:
AVR: yamaha RX-V 765
Fronts: polk rti4
sub: polk psw110
Center: CS13
surrounds: sony bookshelf(soon to be Def-Tech ProMonitor 800)
TV: samsung 40
The real 2 Channel(work in progress):
Receiver:HK 3490
Subs:2x Polk PSW 505
Speakers: YTD
most of my comments are passing on of info, im a noob, im just trying to help how i can, if im wrong or out of place to comment, dont hesitate to let me know :)
"its better to regret something you did, than something you didn't"
---
Polk Studio Monitor 4.6 Series 2's, Polk RT1000p's, Polk LSi25's, Boston Acoustic VR-975's
Crown D-75, Crown CE1000, Crown CE2000
There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)