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  1. #1

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    Default Polk LSiC drivers-Need help troubleshooting or replacing.

    My LSiC only produces very muffled and reduced sound now.It was working fine and not sure if the drivers are blown or anything else inside? Is there a way to test the speaker itself? I did notice that it does have capacitors inside as well behind the binding post. Please guide me as to how would I go about testing the unit to determine if it is the capacitors or drivers?

  2. #2

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    2 probable options, 1 the crossover has blown, a small resistor on it is likely to blow on this line if over / under powered. The second is that the drivers are bad, push them in carefully if you hear scratching they are likely blown. Also if they are like my lsi9s more sound might come out of one of the drivers so 1 might be blown while the other is not.

    Or like me you could find out that both are bad and you are really screwed.

    Only way I know of to check the crossover is to take out the speakers first then take out the crossover and look for a burned up or separated resistory, small white box.

  3. #3

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    http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/show...30#post1836330

    This is a picture of what the crossover might look like if bad.

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    Did you have it cranked way up with lots of bass? Is it just the Tweeter?

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    I should also mention that you can unscrew the binding posts and remove the metal bridge so you can listen to just the tweeter or just the main drivers separately.

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by PolkieMan View Post
    Did you have it cranked way up with lots of bass? Is it just the Tweeter?
    Yes,I have to say I'm guilty..

  7. #7

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    The drivers don't sound like they are blown when I push them in, so I'm hoping it is just a resistor as I did have them cranked on more than 1 occasion.


    Quote Originally Posted by PubFiction View Post
    2 probable options, 1 the crossover has blown, a small resistor on it is likely to blow on this line if over / under powered. The second is that the drivers are bad, push them in carefully if you hear scratching they are likely blown. Also if they are like my lsi9s more sound might come out of one of the drivers so 1 might be blown while the other is not.

    Or like me you could find out that both are bad and you are really screwed.



    Only way I know of to check the crossover is to take out the speakers first then take out the crossover and look for a burned up or separated resistory, small white box.

  8. #8

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    I unscrewed the binding post and tried to take out the crossover but it does not come out completely.Is there a trick to that? Also, the front drivers don't seem to come out either even after taking the screws off.They seem quite firm even after trying to pry them out..I don't see any other screws besides on both drivers and the tweeter.


    Quote Originally Posted by PubFiction View Post
    I should also mention that you can unscrew the binding posts and remove the metal bridge so you can listen to just the tweeter or just the main drivers separately.

  9. #9

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    The post you have quoted was not how to remove the crossovers but how to test the tweeter and MW separately.

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    In order to remove the crossover you must unhook all the drivers from the front because they are connected by wires which are = soldered to the crossover and too short. Then the crossover itself has to be rotated just right to get it out.

    The best way to go is probably to take out one of the main drivers then reach in there and see if you can see the crossover without removing everything by just looking for it from the front of the speaker might have to move some dampening material around.

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    Removing the connecting post tines and testing the tweeter vs the woofer is a good idea. My Lsic became muffled just as the OP described. What is was, was a bad solder joint on one of the tweeter wires that I guess just vibrated loose. I re-soldered it and it has worked just fine ever since.
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  12. #12

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    Found the problem..See pic..Everything else checks out..I'm not sure how this happened..Do I need a whole new X over or can I just change the coil and that resistor? Also, i might consider upgrading the caps so I don't run into this issue again.Suggestions???
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    Last edited by Nightbird; 01-15-2013 at 05:28 PM.

  13. #13

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    haha lovely, I know you can solder a new resistor and get one for pretty cheap that is an upgrade over the current one and should not have this problem again. Someone else has to let you know the best path on the coil. I thin its$60 for a new crossover from polk, and VR3 will sell you upgraded ones too.

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    So, I finally dropped of the LsiC with Frank at the local" The Speaker Shop" for a custom x-over with upgraded caps,resistors and coils.Let's see how it turns up.Will post pics when I get it back. He did mention though that he will switch it to an 8 ohm cabinet.Don't know how that will impact anything.

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    Did you try checking out the mods and upgrades from VR3? You should compare prices with him and Frank. Sounds like it might be too late though since you may have dropped it off. Are you gettting a quote from him before having him do the work though?

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    What do you mean that he will switch it to an 8 ohm cabinet.??
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  17. #17

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    I'm not sure how this happened
    I do. You drove your AVR or power amp into clipping. Turn it down or you will do it again regardless of whatever you have done to the crossover. Which leads into, you cannot make a 4 ohm speaker into an 8 ohm speaker without completely changing the crossover circuits and the drivers. I'd find a different guy to work on your speakers.

    Not to mention that if somehow your center becomes an 8 ohm speaker, your other LSi's are still 4 ohm and you don't want to mix 4 and 8 ohm speakers.
    Last edited by F1nut; 01-22-2013 at 03:59 AM.
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