running new wire and amp in car, no experience, help please,

[seabeerob213]

next month i will be replacing my blown stock speakers in my car, its a beater and im not looking to over kill this thing, i will be using coax speakers, front, alpine type g 5.25, rear, kenwood, not sure which these are, cost me about 60 or 70 bucks 10 months ago, amp is a 2 channel kenwood rated to 60Wx2 at 4, 75X2 at 2, 150 bridged at 4, just want to use it to add a little more than my cheap kenwood head unit will push, or maybe ad a third pair of speakers, as its a wagon and i have the room to install these in some panels, the car is a 93 ford escort lx, and if i get a third pair it will be the component set of 6 3/4 on the polk ebay store, and those will be amped, i will also put some 16 or 18 gauge wire in because the stock wire is tiny, and i have no expirience wiring car audio, if youre in the seattle area and can help, that would be awesome, also any advice you can give on here will help,

[seabeerob213]

http://www.kenwoodusa.com/Car_Entert...eiver/KDC-202U

http://www.kenwoodusa.com/Car_Entert...ers/KFC-1694PS

http://www.cartoys.com/products/prod...eakers__pair_/

http://www.ebay.com/itm/PAIR-DB6750-...item35c1d7757a

[seabeerob213]

i know i still need an amp cord and rca cables

[seabeerob213]

if i get those comps. i will buy a bigger amp and may sell the one i have

[seabeerob213]

i know automotive audio isnt the biggest deal on this board, any suggestions of a board that would be good?

[seabeerob213]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...tchlink:top:en im thinking about this amp bridged at 2 channels, my head only has output for the rears or a sub

[Msabot1]

Be sure to hot lead the amp into the fuse box that has a 20a, no smaller than 15. The ignition spot is good for this as it will power the equipment as soon as the switch is turned on, be sure you have a good ground. Might be able to re-wire using existing lines as a pull. The rear panels will have to be cut first to get a path to the new speaker locations. Get a couple of glo-rods,they are right for fishing wiring,good for wall cavities too! Haven't done many Escorts,done a few vans and SUV's though!

[seabeerob213]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/PA600-1-Car-...item5ae3227646 maybe this one?

[seabeerob213]

forgot i have a brand new kenwood sub at home, thinking i'll instead run that with a box from parts express and the amp form the previous post

[seabeerob213]

maybe that one, http://www.ebay.com/itm/PA1200-1-Hig...item53e6feecf3

[MacLeod]

For future, post these in the Car Audio forum and youll get more replies (well maybe, its dead there too). We home audio guys dont venture out into the home audio world that much. Before you know it, we say something like cables dont matter and all hell breaks loose so we just stick to our own 'hood.

Do NOT wire the amp to the fuse box. Wire it straight to the battery and use an inline fuse within 18" of the battery. The size of the power wire will depend on how big the amp is. If youre just using one amp then probably 8 gauge will be fine. You can pick up surprisingly decent amp wiring kits at Walmart for a song and dance. Theyll come with power, ground, RCA's and a fuse holder as well. For speakers, dont use anything bigger than 16 gauge and 18 wouldnt be too bad. Youre not running that much power so you dont need to worry about thicker wire and 18 gauge will be a lot easier to snake thru the panels and such.

[seabeerob213]

For future, post these in the Car Audio forum and youll get more replies (well maybe, its dead there too). We home audio guys dont venture out into the home audio world that much. Before you know it, we say something like cables dont matter and all hell breaks loose so we just stick to our own 'hood.

Do NOT wire the amp to the fuse box. Wire it straight to the battery and use an inline fuse within 18" of the battery. The size of the power wire will depend on how big the amp is. If youre just using one amp then probably 8 gauge will be fine. You can pick up surprisingly decent amp wiring kits at Walmart for a song and dance. Theyll come with power, ground, RCA's and a fuse holder as well. For speakers, dont use anything bigger than 16 gauge and 18 wouldnt be too bad. Youre not running that much power so you dont need to worry about thicker wire and 18 gauge will be a lot easier to snake thru the panels and such.

sounds good, will this sub, http://www.kenwoodusa.com/Car_Entert...rs/KFC-W3013PS work ok with this amp? http://www.kenwoodusa.com/Car_Entert...iers/KAC-1502S as long as i keep the bass turned down, i dont want something crazy, just want the low filled out a bit better, im not into the huge thumping bass on the road, and dont wanna buy a new amp if i have one already, and i can always upgrade in the future, but this is a beater, and will do on the wire, i just know the stock stuff aint worth the insulation around it

[MacLeod]

Not really well. That amp isnt powerful enough to do anything with that mean a sub. 150 watts is not enough grunt for a proper sub.

[seabeerob213]

didnt think so, which of those i posted would be adequate, other than the last of the polks

[MacLeod]

Im on my phone and it takes too long to go thru a bunch of links. If you could just tell me what they are, that would help.

Basically since thats a single voice coil sub, youll want a 2 channel amp to run bridged to it. Look for something thatll do around 400 watts RMS at 4 ohms mono.

[seabeerob213]

they were all mono's, i'll look for something that fits the bill and run it by you, no boss audio for me btw, looked like trying to inform that guy was giving you a bit of a headache

[seabeerob213]

btw i know that coax speakers and kenwood subs arent very highly regarded, but i just need a simple competent system that works, and will not break the bank, and these alpines are some of the best sounding speakers i've heard for the money

[seabeerob213]

http://www.amazon.com/Kenwood-Kac-72...ier+bridgeable

Specifications
CEA-2006 Standard
170 W x 2

RMS Watts per channel @ 4 ohms, 1% THD+N80
80 dBA Signal to Noise Ratio (Reference: 1 Watt into 4 ohms)
Max Power Output 1000 W
Rated Power Output
14.4 V
170 W x 2 (4Ω) (20 Hz - 20 kHz, 0.08% THD)
250 W x 2 (2Ω) (1 kHz, 0.8% THD)
500 W x 1 Bridged (4Ω) (1 kHz, 0.8% THD)
Frequency Response 5-50kHz(?3dB)
Input Sensitivity 0.2 V - 5.0 V (MIN-MAX)
Input Impedance 10 kΩ
Signal to Noise Ratio 95 dB
Low Pass Filter Frequency
(-12 dB/oct.)
50 Hz - 200 Hz (variable) Low-Pass Filter Frequency
High Pass Filter Frequency -
Dimensions (W x H x D) 350 x 59 x 238 mm (13-3/4 x 2-5/16 x 9-3/8)

[seabeerob213]

http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-GM-550...ier+bridgeable 125 watts x 2 at 4 ohms, 190 watts x 2 at 2 ohms, or 400 watts x 1 at 4 ohms -