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  1. #1

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    Default Carpet Spikes on R50s

    I just tried to install the included carpet spikes on my R50s. They sit on very thick berber carpet over cement, so I thought that the spikes would be a good idea.

    I turned over the speakers and removed the press-in feet. I then tried to install the spikes, but they are much to thick to fit in the given holes. I'd rather not be getting out my drill until I asked the question "did I get the right sized spikes?"


    Thanks,
    J

  2. #2

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    Default bump

    bump?


    J

  3. #3

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    Default

    the rubber feet had their own screw?

    on the RTi70's the rubber feet actually slide over the spikes. strange that the R50's would have a different setup.

  4. #4

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    Here is how I can best describe it. You remove the feet that came installed on the speakers just by prying them off. They are just little nails basically. That reveals larger holes meant to install the larger proper capet spikes. According to the instructions, you just screw them in place with a crescent wrench. However, I found that the holes are just a touch too small to properly insert the spikes into. So I'm not sure how to proceed. Or at least, I want to exhaust a few options before I proceed on my own.


    J

  5. #5

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    You may find the holes are smaller, or tight, so that the threads of the spike will be able to grab the wood when installed. The spike has to be secure in order to work. I would move forward with what Polk states in the manual.

    Pay close attention to the first few turns, the spike needs to be straight, as the first threads will determine its route into the wood.

  6. #6

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    Great, exactly what I was hoping to hear...they *should* be kinda tight - I'll try them again this weekend!

    Thanks,
    J

  7. #7

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    Problem SOLVED.

    Here it is: I had 2 bags of carpet spikes, one per speaker. The set I was working with were indeed DEFECTIVE. Upon closer inspection of the other bag, I noticed the difference: The spikes that are properly manufactured have a taper to the threaded part, allowing you to screw them into the drilled holes which are smaller for snug fit. The other set lacks this taper and therefore could not be used.

    To solve the problem I used the good spikes to create a larger hole for the defective ones. Then, with difficulty I was able to screw them all in.

    Now, I have to level them, what a pain this is turning out to be. Actually, the speakers seem more 'tippy' or moveable then they did on straight carpet!

    I also notice a slightly change in sound, but for the worse...the range of 'upper mid' at higher volume almost feels harsh now, which I don't really like. Oh well. This whole HT experience has been allot of fiddling, why stop now!


    J

  8. #8

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    You may have to adjust the movement in the base, by unscrewing some of the spikes, to firm them up. Unless you are completely flat, you will not be receiving the correct result. The result may be undesireable, it is user specific.

  9. #9
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    I am really surprised to read of the need to screw the spikes into wood/ MDF. Especially given the need to unscrew one or more to raise/ level a speaker. Not going to work well with tappered threads.

    My old SRS's have metal sleeves in the base to accept disc feet and spikes. I think it would be worth a run to HD to purchase sets of these...
    More later,
    Tour...
    Vox Copuli
    Better to remain silent and be thought a fool, than to open your mouth and remove all doubt. - Old English Proverb

    "It's easy to get lost in price vs performance vs ego vs illusion." - doro
    "There is a certain entertainment value in ripping the occaisonal (sic) buttmunch..." - TroyD
    "Death doesn't come with a Uhaul." - Dennis Gardner

    Rebuilding Maggie 2-ch & Amazing 2-ch... Building 2-ch "wall"... Figuring out the HT

  10. #10

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    I certainly wouldn't call anything that comes with new Polk speakers, marvels of close tolerance manufacturing. That's just the way it goes.

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