My 'New to me' SDA SRS 3.1TL

[Mystery]

Brought them in last night and my back is sore now.
Wife helped out but just as a support.
I'm getting old for heavy speakers.

Physical Condition:
Minor scuffs and scratches but nothing major.
There is one few inches long small crack on top plate of right speaker.
Grills are very good besides minor holes/fraying etc.
Side panels and back cabinets are very good.
Front baffle is almost perfect.
On the left speaker, there is some kind of glue residue around the dimensional driver and some of that glue is also on the surrounds of that driver.
There is no rip or tear on the driver though.

Right PR has small crease on it.

On all drivers' surrounds including PR, there is rusty colored dust layer as seen on the pictures.
Also, that rusty color rings are on the grill cloth from the surrounds touching the grill cloth.
I saw that in my Monitor 7's as well.
Not sure how that rust colored dust gets there but it wipes out clean.
May be it's due to being unused for a while. SDA-2B didn't have that.









They look pretty good after wiping the dust/rust.


Briefly turned them on this morning and noticed these are more efficient than 2B's.
At the same volume, these are noticeably louder than 2B's.
Also, these have smoother/more midrange and more heavy/solid sound.
2B's sound little lighter and thinner but brighter.
Didn't notice much difference in bass but I only listened at low/moderate volume.
I know it's very crappy testing and setup but I was expecting night and day from 2B's.

My living room is now crammed.
I have my work cutout for this weekend moving speakers around.
I'm using IC from CRS+ for now.





From the other thread:

Aren't those like some of the early 1Cs? Might need to attach a wire from the negative speaker wire terminal to the currently-unused terminal in the SDA interconnect socket. Then they're AI-1 compatible, which opens up your options for amplifiers.
Define "separately powered".

All amps I have are common ground so no need for AI-1 right now.

I checked schematics and bi-amp is separated for tweeter and mid drivers.
I was thinking may be few mids + tweeter can be powered independently for upper/mid range and others for low frequencies.

SRS just means Signature Reference Series
SDA means Stereo Dimensional Array, of course.
They have got to be pin/blade because they were the last of the TL line like 1990.
So only the pin is active just get an old rca cable and break the outer prongs
off so the pin will go up in the IC hole for now.
BTW you stole those!
And download the SDA Handbook

I have few long RCA cables lying around. I'll try that.
SDA Handbook is downloaded long time back.
Remember, this is my 3rd SDA.

[Oldfatdogs]

Congratulations,that's a serious list you have going.
Enjoy Dan

[tophatjohnny]

They cleaned up real nice. Of course they will be more musical than the 2B's. Looks like a SDA party up in there

[brgman]

A quick thing i'd do until you get deep into a rebuild is swap those jumpers out.I know the orginals are going to be pretty corroded after all these years.Just a quick fix for the signal.Deoxit if you have any also.

[Mystery]

Thanks for comments.

A quick thing i'd do until you get deep into a rebuild is swap those jumpers out.I know the orginals are going to be pretty corroded after all these years.Just a quick fix for the signal.Deoxit if you have any also.

Can I just clean them up and deOxit or really need to replace?
I assume, standard speaker cables should work as jumpers.

[brgman]

Just a couple pieces of speaker cable is fine.I would replace.
Take a look at the cables and see if you don't see green in there.I'd bet you do.

[Dawgfish]

I like to use these on my SRS 2s when I'm not bi-wiring them: http://www.jwaudio.net/Jumpers.html They are very reasonable at $30/pair and sound great. I've made homemade jumpers before which sounded better than the OEM jumpers, but the JW jumpers were a huge upgrade over both.

[proffitt]

Mystery,
I had the exact same rust colored powdery stuff on my drivers surrounds also.
Over in the "SDA SRS 2 needs CPR and ICU" thread that went on for so long, 1st page, post # 15, first photo, you can really see it on the edges. You can also see rust on the screw heads. I wonder if the rust on the screws is sluffing off and attaching itself to the rubber over the years. I've seen several other pictures where there seems to be the same rust colored dust.

I painted the screw heads, and REALLY cleaned up my pair, now the rusty dust really stands out. I wasn't sure if I should try to clean it up or just leave it alone. Didn't want to do any damage and I doubt it has any effect on the sound. But it just looks gawd aweful. You're a speaker guy right? Can I wipe down those rubber surrounds carefully? Use any cleaner? Damp cloth with water? or armor-all?
Thanks,
Proffitt

[Toolfan66]

If you haven't done it SPIKE THEM.....

[Mystery]

Mystery,You're a speaker guy right? Can I wipe down those rubber surrounds carefully? Use any cleaner? Damp cloth with water? or armor-all?
Thanks,
Proffitt

I'm as much speaker guy as you are.
I did a two step wipe using paper towels on the surrounds.
1st was with rubbing alcohol to get heavy dust and any grimes out.
Then with plain water to wipe off any leftover dusts and remaining alcohol.
It's not detailed job but way better now.

[Mystery]

If you haven't done it SPIKE THEM.....

Spike the 3.1TL's?
They have button type feet now.
Modding them is in the back burner.
Need to sort out the list of speakers to pass on first.
thanks

[Mike Reeter]

I'm as much speaker guy as you are.
I did a two step wipe using paper towels on the surrounds.
1st was with rubbing alcohol to get heavy dust and any grimes out.
Then with plain water to wipe off any leftover dusts and remaining alcohol.
It's not detailed job but way better now.

I use a lint free or micro fiber cloth (spray the cloth with some Windex, don't apply the Windex directly to the drivers) Clean the drivers with a circular motion and be gentle on the paper portion, removes smoke, dirt, grime and all kinds of crap and leaves the drivers looking like new again, shiny and still tacky.

[Mystery]

I'll try some Goo Gone that's citric based to remove the glue residues on that one speaker.
With some more cleanup, they'll be much decent looking.
Also, need to wash grills with some soap to remove dust/rust on them.

[Mike Reeter]

I'll try some Goo Gone that's citric based to remove the glue residues on that one speaker.
With some more cleanup, they'll be much decent looking.
Also, need to wash grills with some soap to remove dust/rust on them.

Do not get the grill frames too wet, they won't take it, the frame material will swell and disfigure to the point of..."oh crap, what have I done"...trust me on this one, I just just finished making replacement grill frames, going to recloth this weekend.

[Mystery]

Do not get the grill frames too wet, they won't take it, the frame material will swell and disfigure to the point of..."oh crap, what have I done"...trust me on this one, I just just finished making replacement grill frames, going to recloth this weekend.

I was thinking of spraying with a hose for few minutes.
Hmm... there is no way to clean the cloth otherwise unless taking them off of the frames.

[F1nut]

I painted the screw heads, and REALLY cleaned up my pair, now the rusty dust really stands out. I wasn't sure if I should try to clean it up or just leave it alone. Didn't want to do any damage and I doubt it has any effect on the sound. But it just looks gawd aweful. You're a speaker guy right? Can I wipe down those rubber surrounds carefully? Use any cleaner? Damp cloth with water? or armor-all?

The discoloration on the rubber surrounds is simply oxidation. Follow Mike Reeter's directions for using Windex, use nothing else and especially NOT Armor-All.

I'll try some Goo Gone that's citric based to remove the glue residues on that one speaker.

If you're talking about the white residue on the dust cap, use Windex.

[Mystery]

The discoloration on the rubber surrounds is simply oxidation. Follow Mike Reeter's directions for using Windex, use nothing else and especially NOT Armor-All.

If you're talking about the white residue on the dust cap, use Windex.

Nope. I'm talking about this glue residue on the baffle around left SDA driver.
http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/atta...7&d=1359050318

[Toolfan66]

Only use windex on the drivers and passives with a soft cloth as stated above!!!

[Mike Reeter]

I was thinking of spraying with a hose for few minutes.
Hmm... there is no way to clean the cloth otherwise unless taking them off of the frames.

"If" the cloth is attached well to the frames and the side panels, it will take a good scrubbing without causing any damage. Just don't soak the grills completely, just try to lightly wash the cloth and not expose the frames to too much moisture.

Mine were really dirty, cig. smoke, pet urine and whatnot, I took them to the bath tub and scrubbed the crap out of them, the material the frames are made of is very soft and porous and will soak up and swell very easily.

[bored184]

Impressive setup! I wish my wife would let me do that to our living room.

[PolkieMan]

Look really nice.
You can probably use some wood filler on that crack, sand and repaint.
I wonder why the PR is different on these compared to all the other SDA's.
Did Polk just decide to change manufactures towards the end of the SDA run?
Has someone had a bad experience with armor-all on the speaker surrounds?
Like did they crack or turn to mush?

[Mystery]

Only use windex on the drivers and passives with a soft cloth as stated above!!!

Hopefully my cleaning with alcohol didn't do any harm.

[F1nut]

Has someone had a bad experience with armor-all on the speaker surrounds?
Like did they crack or turn to mush?

It's nasty stuff that causes the natural oils to dry out and attracts dust like a magnet. It should be taken off the market.

I wonder why the PR is different on these compared to all the other SDA's.
Did Polk just decide to change manufactures towards the end of the SDA run?

Because that design worked best, nothing to do with who made it.

[Mystery]

Only use windex on the drivers and passives with a soft cloth as stated above!!!

I went over them again with Windex and wiped clean all areas.

The glue residue on speaker baffle went away rubbing with some 'Goo Gone'.

"If" the cloth is attached well to the frames and the side panels, it will take a good scrubbing without causing any damage. Just don't soak the grills completely, just try to lightly wash the cloth and not expose the frames to too much moisture.
Mine were really dirty, cig. smoke, pet urine and whatnot, I took them to the bath tub and scrubbed the crap out of them, the material the frames are made of is very soft and porous and will soak up and swell very easily.

Mine are not that dirty. They just have some dust and minor stains.
They are okay as it is but just want to clean them as who knows where they have been staying.

Impressive setup! I wish my wife would let me do that to our living room.

My wife complains when I bring big speakers but once she listens to them, she wants to keep them but only one set, not all.

Look really nice.
You can probably use some wood filler on that crack, sand and repaint.

Thanks. No need for filler right now.
That top is very solid and crack doesn't seem to be all the way in.

------------------------******************-----------------------
Did more testing.
Wifey prefers 2B's.
She thinks 3.1TL's are harsh and loud while 2B's are softer, smoother and vocals are more clear.

My thoughts: 2B's are cleaner, smoother and more/softer bass recoil. Feels like listening with noise reduction on compared to 3.1TL's.
3.1TL's are louder, music/vocal not separate, more resonance like listening in Hall mode and less/tighter bass. Feels noisy.
I'm not sure yet as I want to test more but so far 2B's are no. 1.

[Dawgfish]

One thing to keep in mind with the 3.1TLs is given the fact that they were outside in a barn and it was cold in your area, it may take them a few days to properly warm up and get going. It sounds crazy, but I've seen this before. Also there is no telling how long it's been since they were last played. Give them a few days of playing and then make a decision. The 2Bs may very well continue to sound better but at least you'll know it wasn't because of lack of warm-up/break-in with the 3.1s. Just my dos centavos.

[Mystery]

...The 2Bs may very well continue to sound better but at least you'll know it wasn't because of lack of warm-up/break-in with the 3.1s. Just my dos centavos.

Yes, will give them enough time.
Also, will open up and check drivers/crossovers etc. when I have some time and swap placement with the 2B's.

[teekay0007]

Mystery - did the Goo Gone you used do any damage to the finish (vinyl/paint) of the baffle?

Also, you know it's against Colorado law to hoard speakers, don't you?

[Mystery]

Mystery - did the Goo Gone you used do any damage to the finish (vinyl/paint) of the baffle?

Also, you know it's against Colorado law to hoard speakers, don't you?

Goo Gone is citric based so it should not damage anything.
I sprayed little bit on a cloth and applied on the glue residue.
Left for few minutes and slowly rubbed it until glue broke down.
Then I wiped that area with windex.
I'll check tonight and see if there is any damage on the finish.

I thought we only passed amendment 64 , didn't know about that speaker law.

[PolkieMan]

The 3.1tls should shine on the 2Bs. Maybe the crossovers are in bad shape.
From being in the barn with the dampness and the cold and the heat.

[Toolfan66]

The 3.1tls should shine on the 2Bs. Maybe the crossovers are in bad shape.
From being in the barn with the dampness and the cold and the heat.

Maybe maybe not. I to liked the 2b's over the 3.1's