Found a cool way to clean the inside of an amp...........

[pepster]

Strip it to nothing!

Makes it alot easier!

Lots of new stuff going into this B&K ST2140.
Got the final piece in the mail today (new 5 way binding posts).

More pics to come.......

[disneyjoe7]

I place mine in the pool for a quick rinse.

[pepster]

Going to have some parts left over when I get done "cleaning this amp".

Molex connectors solderED to the board?
No More!

Going to be KILLER wire soldered directly to the board, no more molex!

[pepster]

If you look closely, you will see a red wire cut in the center of each board (dual mono design).

Those are the speaker wire outputs, and getting ready to be killer wire there also.
Common ground amp, so the (-) neg speaker output is not visible.

Nordost?
Solid core 6N OCC copper 16 ga.?

[pepster]

Thinking about replacing the "push button" on/off switch with a cool LED toggle switch.

New Furutech IEC input, new XLO X-10 power cable (internally), Neotech solid core silver/teflon directly from the board (was Molex) to AudioNote silver rca inputs.


I have a rather large list of "To Do's" on this amp.

I'll have more pic's ect. latter on, and if there is something you might want to do to your amp that is similar to all the mods I am doing, I might be able to help.

[txcoastal1]

Nice overhaul project Pep, bring it to LSAF

[pepster]

With the AudioNote silver binding posts (I put in previously).

XLO X-10 (Awesome power cable).
I simply strip the raw conductors out and use them to wire the new IEC input, and to transformer barrier strip.

[Drenis]

Paul I'm jealous!

That is one amp I reaaaly want to hear after my short time with one. My buddy wont give it up!

Needs a bigger tranny while you're at it

[txcoastal1]

Are you just rewiring or you refreshing/upgrading of any caps

[pepster]

Wassssssup Andre?

It sounds pretty good now.
I have a little Rotel that is dual mono and has separate transformers, but it does not have quiet the "umph" this B&K does.

You never know how this will go.
Always the chance of having too much "silver".

I like silver in my kit, and incorporate it here and there, but it is a fine line.
You go too far over that mark, and it is sad face.

I have done alot on this amp in the past so I am familiar.
I am going on "instincts" at this point.

Quick fix if I go too far!

[codyc1ark]

Nothing to see here, folks. Move along, move along..

[pepster]

Are you just rewiring or you refreshing/upgrading of any caps

I thought about it, but it sounds really good as is (or as was), and I can always replace caps, r's latter on if I want to.
It has Dale resistors and Rubycon caps right now.

I will write down what I did and list it latter on.

[Drenis]

That amp did something right to the A9's when I moved the Carver out of the way for a ST2140. Wont forget how much better those speakers sounded. Definitely want to hear it on SDA's.

I like silver in my kit, and incorporate it here and there, but it is a fine line.
You go too far over that mark, and it is sad face.

Never played with silver.

[pepster]

That amp did something right to the A9's when I moved the Carver out of the way for a ST2140. Wont forget how much better those speakers sounded. Definitely want to hear it on SDA's.



Never played with silver.

Silver on the rca inputs, nothing but copper from board to binding posts.
Match made in heaven.

[pepster]

So you know, I put the caps from the ST 2140 on top of the caps in a Rotel dual mono (Rotel has dual tranny's).

Does not matter what so ever, but I posted this just for size comparison, nothing more.




Got the IC (rca) input Molex plug off the board, cleaning it up alittle and getting ready to install Neotech 24 ga 7N pure silver solid core directly to the board (Minus the Molex plugs) after alitle more cleaning.

[pepster]

I have had this amp for 4 or 5 years, so I am familiar.
I was beginning to wonder if these minor changes were going to be worth the effort.

Just getting rid of the Molex plugs in the signal path board, and the factory silver plated copper wire from board to binding posts.
I thought putting pure copper (no silver plating) from board to binding posts would make the difference.

I can say without a doubt, well worth it!
This amp has never had the detail it does now.


No more Molex, now Neotech pure silver/teflon solid core directly to the board!



New binding posts, straight copper wire (stripped from River Cable flexygy 6 speaker wire), straight from board to binding posts.



Had to build another dim bulb tester to test this amp after all the work was done, just to make sure all was well before plugging it into the wall socket.

NEVER sounded this good!
Beyond my expectations so far.
Tickeled to death, with the detail, slam, ect.
Top end is to die for!

Going to give it some time to burn everything in alittle, and still have to figure out which IEC input I am going to use, I have Furutech, Oyaide, and Acme on hand.
Running stock IEC with Furutech fuse for now.


I still have the face plate off, but.........SHE LIVES!

[Drenis]

Change the LED color while your at it.

Also, I call dibs on this when you sell it.

[pepster]

Change the LED color while your at it.

Also, I call dibs on this when you sell it.

I wanted to put a nice blue LED toggle in it, but can't find one (and change the power light to blue).

Got a few more suspects laying around here that are going to get some upgrades.

Initial impressions...........its not going anywhere.

Tickled pink at the moment with it.


Got a few more mid-fi components I need to "get a plan together" for (beats sitting around and rotting):

[Drenis]

One sold not long ago with a Blue LED... Go do it!

[headrott]

Trust me, use an Oyaide Inlet R IEC connector. I have used Furutech, and this relatively new Oyaide Inlet r, and the Oyaide Inlet R is definately better than the Furutch (in the same price range). However, I haven't used the $100.00+ Furutech. I installed the Oyaide Inlet R into my BAT VK-200 amp and it was definately a worthwhile upgrade.