New Polk SDA 1C owner

[aldine]

I am very excited to have scored a pair of Polk SDA 1Cs. They were someone's uncompleted project and were in pieces. The previous owner had a box of 6511, 6510, and 2500 speakers. They had never been opened. The drivers and array speakers had a date of 2000 on them.
One of the speakers was missing the wiring harness for the drivers and array speakers. I checked out the SDA 1C pdf files and in one image it looks like they are wired in series and the other parallel. pdf SDA 1C Rch Wiring.pdf‎ shows black to positive and white to negative. SDA 1C Lch Wiring.pdf‎ (41.0 KB, 1035 views) shows them in series. Which is correct?
I ordered some Dayton caps from Parts express, but am rethinking that. How much of a compromise would I be making with them?
When I first got them I powered them with my Denon 3311 AV reciever (125 watts per), but had a Yamaha MX-600 (135 watts per) laying around. They sounded better with the Yamaha. In a weak moment I bought a Yamaha MX-1 CX-1 amp preamp combo. (I may as well spend what is left of my hearing in style). Since the speakers are "new' do I need to worry about breaking them in?

[tophatjohnny]

welcome to CP. And congrats on the new speakers. The SDA line is like no other I have ever heard and love mine. I have the 1B's and am doing mods slowly. One piece of advice I got here on the forum (and a great one) was to invest in a separate power amp. I did, and WoW was the outcome. Then I changed the tweeters to the new replacement RDO 194 and that was a nice change. You will find the best of the best here on the forum and probably the nicest people on the planet are among us here too. Again, welcome and post pics of your 1C's. I'd like to see them. Thanks.

[drumminman]

Welcome to CP and congrats on your new speaks!

Can't answer your question on the wiring diagram, perhaps those more knowledgeable will respond.

Re: the Dayton caps, I've never used them, but I have used Sonicaps, which are very good and provide a substantial improvement. Others here like other brands too so it's best to get your read on!

Pics are great and don't be shy about asking questions.

[westmassguy]

Congrats on your new purchase, and welcome to the forum. There are three wiring diagrams available here for the 1Cs. The crossovers themselves are identical, as are the harnesses. What differs is the L&R wiring (parts placement) diagrams. They are mirror images of each other, which may explain your confusion. The 6511 Stereo Drivers are wired in Series, while the 6510 Dimensional drivers are wired in Parallel. If you made a new harness, it should be done according to the "SDA 1C Sch" schematic. You also mentioned you received SL2500 tweeters. Those are not the correct tweeters. The 1Cs originally came with SL2000s, and the current, and much improved replacement is the RDO-194.
Dayton caps are great "Budget" caps, but for a little more money and better performance, Clarity PX could be used in the Hi-Pass Tweeter section, while the Daytons can still be used in the Low-Pass Woofer Section. If you really want a better cap for the Hi-Pass, Sonicaps would be my choice, along with Mills, or Mundorf Resistors in place of the cheap Sand-Cast Resistors in there now.

[monepolk]

Congrats on your new speakers and welcome to Club Polk!

[proffitt]

Welcome to the club Aldine.

With the wonderful help from the very knowledgeable folks here on this list... I went with the Daytons on the low end, and the SonicCaps Gen I and Mills on the high end. Very pleased.

Pay really close attention to the wiring schematics, and don't just wire it like the other speaker. And for that matter, if someone has had their hands that far into them, you'll want to check the existing wiring on the first. The SDA effect does some pretty weird stuff in the wiring. I'm guessing/assuming the 1Cs have an interconnect cable too? Do you have that?

Good luck. If this is your first SDA set, you will be blown away by the soundstage and separation.

[aldine]

Thanks for the feedback. I will post photos soon.

tophatjohnny You validate my purchase of the Yamaha amp and preamp yesterday. I had to drive for three hours in a snow storm to get them.

westmassguy and proffitt I think I have created a wiring harness that is correct. The speaker that was assembled seems to have been done correctly. From what I could figure out the way the wires connect to the crossover is not a mirror image. The speaker
that is in question is the right one. The tweeter harness on both was plugged in the same way.

I do not have the IC cable but just stuck a speaker wire in the round hole.

Which cap is for the low-pass woofer and which is the high-pass?

Thanks

[westmassguy]

Thanks for the feedback. I will post photos soon.

tophatjohnny You validate my purchase of the Yamaha amp and preamp yesterday. I had to drive for three hours in a snow storm to get them.

westmassguy and proffitt I think I have created a wiring harness that is correct. The speaker that was assembled seems to have been done correctly. From what I could figure out the way the wires connect to the crossover is not a mirror image. The speaker
that is in question is the right one. The tweeter harness on both was plugged in the same way.

I do not have the IC cable but just stuck a speaker wire in the round hole.

Which cap is for the low-pass woofer and which is the high-pass?

Thanks

The Hi-Pass Sonicaps would be the 12uf, and the 4.4uf
The Low-Pass Daytons are the 20uf and the 40uf.
I never said the harnesses were mirror images, I said the L&R wiring (parts placement) diagrams are mirror images: "SDA 1C Lch Wiring" and "SDA 1C Rch Wiring".
The crossovers themselves, and the harnesses are identical. The Tweeters and Woofers you connect to are identical. It's the location of the stereo and dimensional woofers that changes (mirror image).

[Moose68Bash]

I do not have the IC cable but just stuck a speaker wire in the round hole.

Welcome to the Forum! I'm a relative newbie, too, and I can tell you there is a wealth of knowledge and experience available here, and there are a bunch of Polkies ready, willing and VERY able to advise and assist you!

I've owned and enjoyed my pair of 1Cs for over 20 years. They are now "decommissioned," awaiting Trey at Vr3 Mods to complete crossover upgrades, new binding post plates, and new interconnect cables.

While they are available and because you need to build a good interconnect cable any way, you might want to consider purchasing Trey's new binding post plates and installing Speakon connectors for the interconnect and upgraded binding posts for the speaker cables.

Have a look at the following thread, if you are interested:
OFFICIAL "INTEREST" THREAD -- Polk Terminal Cup Replacement, Aluminum Round Vintage.

Again, welcome to the rabbit warren and look forward to diving into the rabbit hole!

[aldine]

thanks westmassguy. that clears that up. Moose68Bash that link did not show up. At least at my end.

[Moose68Bash]

thanks westmassguy. that clears that up. Moose68Bash that link did not show up. At least at my end.

Sorry.

Try this one:
http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/show...96#post1876796

I tested it, and it works this time. Takes you to a thread where Vr# has binding post plates for sale. you can contact him about these.

[ZLTFUL]

aldine doesn't have enough posts yet to view For Sale threads.

On that note, welcome to the Club.

[PolkieMan]

Welcome. Looks like you have found a good set to fix up.
I have a pair of 1c new crossovers and tweeters.
First off download the SDA Handbook. It's big give it a minute or two

vr3mods.com/uploads/SDA_Handbook_2011_Rev2.pdf

Check out the new crossover boards at Gimpod.com, it's all there parts list and everything.

[aldine]

That new crossover board looks like it would be much easier to work on. How do I get a pair?

[F1nut]

http://www.gimpod.com/

Don't use Daytons, get the Sonicaps. In fact, Tony's boards are designed to use Sonicaps and Mills 12 watt resistors.

As westmassguy stated, the SL2500 is the wrong tweeter, get the RD0194-1 from Polk.

[PolkieMan]

Yea Tony will help you if you have any questions, it's almost paint by numbers.

http://www.gimpod.com/

Don't use Daytons, get the Sonicaps. In fact, Tony's boards are designed to use Sonicaps and Mills 12 watt resistors.

As westmassguy stated, the SL2500 is the wrong tweeter, get the RD0194-1 from Polk.

[VR3]

You can also go hardcore and do Clarity Cap ESA/SA mix :-P

[aldine]

There sure are a lot of ways to spend $ on these. They sound great now. I am sure this question has been done to death, but what would be the best bang for my buck and which upgrade path should I take? Also I thought the sl2500 were a step up from the sl2000. I have three of the four old sl2000s. Should I put them back in?

[PolkieMan]

Use sl2000 if you have them. 2500 is not for your speakers. Download the SDA Handbook at the link I posted.
Rdo-194 tweeters are $48 each. The new crossover posted above cost me $200 each in parts. Here is a IC cable I made

[westmassguy]

There sure are a lot of ways to spend $ on these. They sound great now. I am sure this question has been done to death, but what would be the best bang for my buck and which upgrade path should I take? Also I thought the sl2500 were a step up from the sl2000. I have three of the four old sl2000s. Should I put them back in?

If it were me, I'd do the crossovers first, using the existing boards. Your choice of capacitors and resistors is up to you, Sonicaps, Mills and Daytons will fit just fine on it, and sound great. 2nd would be new RDO-194s directly from Polk Customer Service. Just be sure to tell them you're a member of club Polk for the dicount. As PolkieMan shows, an IC cable can be made with single 10-12 gauge wire and RCA Jacks with the outer shield broken or cut off. Only the center pin carries the signal.

[aldine]

I just ordered the RDO-194S tweeters from Polk. I also put in the three working SL2000 tweeters back in. I figure I can sell the four nearly new SL2500s and the three working Sl2000 on Ebay. Now I need to decide what kind of a cross over upgrade to do. Thank for all of the help so far.

[westmassguy]

I just ordered the RDO-194S tweeters from Polk. I also put in the three working SL2000 tweeters back in. I figure I can sell the four nearly new SL2500s and the three working Sl2000 on Ebay. Now I need to decide what kind of a cross over upgrade to do. Thank for all of the help so far.

Should be able to cover most of your RDO-194 purchase by selling them. $25.00 for the SL2000s, and $30-35.00 for the SL2500s.

[PolkieMan]

Yes you got the tweeters first, that's what I did. The new boards are only $50 each shipped and are easier to works with and have room for the better and larger caps and resistors. I guess it's how much you want to spend, westmassguy did a fine job using the originals

Attachment 81092
If it were me, I'd do the crossovers first, using the existing boards. Your choice of capacitors and resistors is up to you, Sonicaps, Mills and Daytons will fit just fine on it, and sound great. 2nd would be new RDO-194s directly from Polk Customer Service. Just be sure to tell them you're a member of club Polk for the dicount. As PolkieMan shows, an IC cable can be made with single 10-12 gauge wire and RCA Jacks with the outer shield broken or cut off. Only the center pin carries the signal.

[westmassguy]

Yes you got the tweeters first, that's what I did. The new boards are only $50 each shipped and are easier to works with and have room for the better and larger caps and resistors. I guess it's how much you want to spend, westmassguy did a fine job using the originals

Thanks PolkieMan, those were actually for a customer.
aldine, ultimately it's up to you how much you want to spend. A lot of the well intentioned recommendations made by other respected members can cost a lot of money. Whichever way you decide to go, it will be light years ahead of the original parts that are in there now.

[tophatjohnny]

Lot's of options there. Don't let it blow your mind to high. Do the mods you can, and as you go along, you will find your ears happier and happier with each step! it's fun, and don't let the negative ones get to you! It will be fun, and you know..**If it's not fun, it's not worth it!**!

[aldine]

I like what westmassguy did with his crossovers and ordered the parts. I will try and put them on the original boards. If that is to hard I will order the aftermarket ones. I am 54 years old. I wish the 17 year old me could see me now. He would be blown away. Yes, I am having fun.
Ps now that I have "Polk fever" I have found a Monitor 7b for $140 and a Monitor 10A for $170 on Craig's list. Are they a good value?

[westmassguy]

I like what westmassguy did with his crossovers and ordered the parts. I will try and put them on the original boards. If that is to hard I will order the aftermarket ones. I am 54 years old. I wish the 17 year old me could see me now. He would be blown away. Yes, I am having fun.
Ps now that I have "Polk fever" I have found a Monitor 7b for $140 and a Monitor 10A for $170 on Craig's list. Are they a good value?

aldine, I'll give you all the help you need, PM me when you're ready.
The Monitor 7s are considered the "best" by many, very balanced sound from top to bottom.
I like the 10s too, as they go a bit lower than the 7s, but some feel there's some loss of precise imaging due to the dual driver configuration.
As to what they're worth, depends on condition. $140 sounds high for the 7s.
I own both

[F1nut]

I will try and put them on the original boards. If that is to hard I will order the aftermarket ones.

Not only do the parts fit better on Tony's boards, the boards are thicker and the traces are heavier. Using them is a no-brainer.

[aldine]

I have been tearing my hair out because when I tried to check the dimensional drivers per the SDA handbook the left side was not working properly. The dimensional sound and the regular sound was both coming out of the 6511 speakers. The 6510 ones were silent. The right side seemed to be working properly. I rechecked the wiring in all of the speakers, but I can not figure it out. Any ideas would greatly be appreciated.

[TennMan]

I suggest starting with the basics. Use a 1.5 volt flashlight battery to check for all the MWs being in phase. First at the speaker terminals and again at end of the speaker wires where they connect to the amplifier. Disconnect the Interconnect cable before doing the tests.