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  1. #31

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    Quote Originally Posted by Schurkey View Post
    They don't work with split-board speakers because--except for the transitional 1Cs--all the split-double-round-board-speakers use the prior-generation of transmitting the SDA signal between the cabinets. There may be other circuitry differences that would make them incompatible also. So, true enough, the Gimpod boards wouldn't work for 1Bs, for example. However, since the circuity is the same between the split-board 1Cs and the rectangular-board 1Cs, and the 1Cs use the latest-generation of SDA transmission, I'd expect the Gimpod boards to work just fine--except for physically mounting them in the cabinets, which will take some cleverness. He'd also have to convert the wire harnesses to use the plug-together (Molex???) harness connectors.
    I wanted to thank you for your input to my education. Between what we have covered here and your other thread I think I know what I am headed. JayCee's image below is of a round board unit converted to the gimpod board. If it worked for him it should work for me.

    JayCee and I talked about the mounting location. There used to be a round board on top of the inductor up top. Putting a board this big right behind the center line of the bottom pair of MW's would be considered a bad thing, correct? JayCee put his on the back of the binding post cup as that is about as far as he could go without the wires being to short. The wiring harness looks simple enough one could rewire and put it on the floor of the cabinet. Thanks again Schurkey
    Last edited by littlewoodboats; 02-19-2013 at 08:47 PM.

  2. #32

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    Quote Originally Posted by Malbec View Post
    The top photo is showing the polyswitch which is used for tweeter protection. The other photo shows a jumper in place of the polyswitch.
    I should have known this as I put in new switches when I did my 2A's

    Quote Originally Posted by PolkieMan View Post
    Yes I used the poly switch and he used a jumper, you can use a resistor see the url below just mouse over the area.
    Where did you source the poly switch and did you by chance check it resistance?

    JayCee would you mind giving the short form of the inductor swaps and what you were looking for in the ones that were not quite correct? I talked to Arizona this afternoon and should be able to deal with whatever is needed.

  3. #33

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    Quote Originally Posted by littlewoodboats View Post
    JayCee would you mind giving the short form of the inductor swaps and what you were looking for in the ones that were not quite correct? I talked to Arizona this afternoon and should be able to deal with whatever is needed.
    Here's what Tony (Gimpod) sent me when I placed my Jantzen order:

    ...your not going to want to use the 20 gauge inductors as the DCR is just to low.

    A word on Jantzen Part numbers, you only want to use the ones that start with a 1 as this denotes an air-core inductor.

    According to the Jantzen wire coil list (Dated 04-06-2008) the closest one's I could find for the 1C's are as follows:

    Stock 22ga, 0.13mH, 0.370 ohms
    Jantzen #1129, 22ga, 0.15mH, 0.330 ohms, This would have to be unwound to 0.130mH but could be a problem as the DCR is already lower than stock and would be even lower after unwinding and my be out of the +/- 10% margin.

    Stock 22ga, 0.400mh, 0.687 ohms
    Jantzen #1489, 22ga, 0.400mh, 0.640 ohms, This should be fine as the DCR is within +/-10%

    Stock 22ga, 1.250mH, 1.329 ohms
    Jantzen #1461, 22ga, 1.400mH, 1.310 ohms, This would have to be unwound to 1.250mH but could be a problem as the DCR is already lower than stock and would be even lower after unwinding and my be out of the +/- 10% margin.

    Stock 22ga, 2.500mh, 1.953 ohms
    Jantzen #1119, 22ga, 2.500mh, 1.840 ohms, This should be fine as the DCR is within +/-10%

    One more thing unwinding inductors is not for the faint of heart as it can be a bit of trial and error trying to get a balance between the mH's and DCR that will work and you could end up going through several inductors in the process. You would also need an LCR meter to measure the inductance as you unwind.

    Now you know why I titled that thread "Inductor DCR Insanity For SDA's"


    His reference to the 20 gauge inductors is because I'd ordered the 1.25mH and 2.50mH in 20 gauge and was unable to cancel them. There doesn't appear to be a really close match for either of these. I hope to do more research for a suitable sub that is either a drop in replacement or can be unwound. The 22 guage 0.400mH's were the only ones within spec and I used on the 1C's (pictured in my previous post).

    To finish my 1.2tl's, I have two .75mH Jantzen inductors that need to be unwound to .7mH. This, the 1.25mH plus 2.5mH 1C inductors and/or future replacements that might work for the 1C's, is what I was referring to when you and I discussed Arizona. All my other 1.2 inductors have been replaced with Solen/Jantzen per DarqueKnight's threads.

    Hope this is what you're asking for?

  4. #34

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    The Poly switch came from Parts express.It is a RXE135
    http://www.parts-express.com/cat/pol...ble-fuses/1433

  5. #35

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    Quote Originally Posted by JayCee View Post
    Stock 22ga, 2.500mh, 1.953 ohms
    Jantzen #1119, 22ga, 2.500mh, 1.840 ohms, This should be fine as the DCR is within +/-10%

    His reference to the 20 gauge inductors is because I'd ordered the 1.25mH and 2.50mH in 20 gauge and was unable to cancel them. There doesn't appear to be a really close match for either of these.
    Can't correct my previous post. Above quote...incorrect info is in red. The 2.500mH does have a compatible match based on Tony's research. I'm going to order it in a few months.

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