After 3 years I'm going to finally hook up my sub :)

[Lasareath]

Hey All,

I bought this sub 3 years ago: http://www.polkaudio.com/products/db1212

Haven't had the time yet to install it. Been way too busy. When the weekend comes I just want to relax.

But I need some Bass in my Car Bad!

I just bought this amp: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...ht_5788wt_1304

Do you think it's to small?, 150 Watts by 1 into 2 ohms. My HU puts out 50x4, Well it puts out like 24x4 and I added an external Alpine amp that turns that into 50x4.

And this Cap Wire Kit: http://www.ebay.com/itm/350711662530...84.m1497.l2649

I guess I should be OK?,

I'll set aside one day when the weather is nice and remove my dash, center console and rear seat. I'll hook up the power from the battery and run the RCAs from the HU and the remote turn on wire. I'll run the bass control potentiometer from the trunk to most likely inside the center console of the arm rest/cd compartment.

Here's something I was looking at that's pretty cool, It's probably over-kill for me with the set up of only one amp and sub but I still think it's Cool:



Do any of you Car Audio guys use this device or something like it?

Sal

[MacLeod]

You know that's actually pretty damn cool. Im gonna look into that one. Sound quality judges are always cranking the volume up as high as they can and Im always worried about clipping. Ive always done it the old fashioned way, by ear, but Im sure Im not 100% right. I don't have an O-scope and don't want to shell out the cash to get one just to do something I can do for free and have as yet not ruined any speakers. This thing is $170 and that's just too much for something like that. The "by ear" method works pretty well too and at worst youre probably setting it a little too low by the ear method.

Now as for the cap, you don't need that at all. Those things are about as worthless as an ******* on your elbow especially with an amp that small. But for the RCA's, power wire and all that, $44 isn't that bad of a price so you didn't get ripped off.

The amp Im afraid is gonna be too small. 150 watts into that DB sub isn't going to do much. 300 watts RMS would've been the best way to go. It wont suck but I don't think itll have enough output to satisfy you. For that money, you could've bought a lot better setup.

Can you return those items? You can get a lot better for that money. Like this Alpine 500 watt for $150 shipped. That would be a LOT better match for that sub and put a big grin on your face while driving down the road.

Then you can get this KnuKonceptz wiring kit for $17 + shipping.

That setup would save you $25 or so and be a whopping improvement over that RF amp.

[Lasareath]

Thanks for your reply, This is exactly the reason I should have posted before buying.

I was really drawn to to that RF amp because it's so cute and small. But I hear what you are saying.

I thought you didn't like Alpine amps?

I had a Cap 20 years ago when I had 3 amps in my 1990 Eclipse GSX. I primarily bought the Cap because I needed the wiring kit.


The really Good thing is that I just called the place and Since they have 24/7 365 CS I got through in like 30 seconds and the really nice girl on the other end cancelled both purchases!!! :)

I really like RF amps. Should I get one of their 500W mono amps or should I just stick with the Alpine you suggested?

Thanks!

[MacLeod]

I don't like the Alpine Class D amps cause theyre riddled with noise issues. Their AB amps like the one I linked are very good especially for the money. I ran a pair of them back around 2002 when I bought a Dodge Ram. Very solid. I linked to it because it was the cheapest one that was good quality and made the power you need. If you want to spend a little more that's never a bad idea as youll get better build quality and a longer lasting amp. If you want to go to $300 this JL Audio JX 500/1 would do nicely. For $200 you can pick up this JBL 500x1 is a nice one. JBL makes some solid gear.

Honestly Id get the Alpine. Its gonna give you its rated 500 watts, be well built and noise free. And for $150 shipped on sale, its hard to beat for the price. Im with you in liking RF amps but Alpine makes a good amp too.....well except for their Class D's.

Since you canceled them both, get the KnuKonceptz kit I linked to. Knu makes their own stuff and its just as good as any of the "high end" brands out there. They distribute it themselves so that's why its so much cheaper. Its all I use. The one I linked to would be the cheapest one they had. If you can spend a little more, then you can move up to oxygen free copper instead of the copper clad aluminum that is what that first kit is. This would be more like what Im talking about for $30. If you think youll ever add more amps, then youll want to get a 4 gauge kit instead so you wont have to run your power wire again. If not, 8 gauge is just fine.

[Lasareath]

Thanks Mac!

Maybe i should run a 4 Gauge since I'm doing the work anyways?

Then I guess I can put a distribution block in the trunk for another amp?

Should I run the Ground to bare metal in the trunk or run it to my battery?

[MacLeod]

If you think you might be adding an amp in the future, go with 4 gauge. Get the OFC wire if you can. Its a little more expensive but well worth it. If you decide to add another amp, grab a distro block from Knu and a little bit of 8 gauge and youre set.

That reminds me, Im not sure what the input of that amp is. If its a 8 gauge input and you run a 4 gauge wire, its gonna be a pain to hook it up. I just looked and Knu doesn't have a 4 to 8 gauge reducer so you can go get this one from Sonic Electronix for $8. You might need 2 since the ground could be an 8 gauge too. If you buy from Crutchfield, might want to contact them and ask if they can verify what input it has. Im betting 8 gauge tho.

Run the ground to a bare spot in the trunk. Ideal if its as short as possible. Pull the trunk liner out of there and youll see there are literally a billion bolts that could be perfect ground locations. I installed my amp on the back seat and there was a big ass bolt right at the bottom of the seat that was perfect. My ground is about 8" long....................that's what she said.

[Lasareath]

If you think you might be adding an amp in the future, go with 4 gauge. Get the OFC wire if you can. Its a little more expensive but well worth it. If you decide to add another amp, grab a distro block from Knu and a little bit of 8 gauge and youre set.

That reminds me, Im not sure what the input of that amp is. If its a 8 gauge input and you run a 4 gauge wire, its gonna be a pain to hook it up. I just looked and Knu doesn't have a 4 to 8 gauge reducer so you can go get this one from Sonic Electronix for $8. You might need 2 since the ground could be an 8 gauge too. If you buy from Crutchfield, might want to contact them and ask if they can verify what input it has. Im betting 8 gauge tho.

Run the ground to a bare spot in the trunk. Ideal if its as short as possible. Pull the trunk liner out of there and youll see there are literally a billion bolts that could be perfect ground locations. I installed my amp on the back seat and there was a big ass bolt right at the bottom of the seat that was perfect. My ground is about 8" long....................that's what she said.

Thanks Again! Hopefully your ground is at least 1/0 thick!

[Lasareath]

That JL Audio Amp is $157 Shipped on eBay!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/JL-AUDIO-JX5...item3ccf6e82a5



QUOTE=MacLeod;1889334]I don't like the Alpine Class D amps cause theyre riddled with noise issues. Their AB amps like the one I linked are very good especially for the money. I ran a pair of them back around 2002 when I bought a Dodge Ram. Very solid. I linked to it because it was the cheapest one that was good quality and made the power you need. If you want to spend a little more that's never a bad idea as youll get better build quality and a longer lasting amp. If you want to go to $300 this JL Audio JX 500/1 would do nicely. For $200 you can pick up this JBL 500x1 is a nice one. JBL makes some solid gear.

Honestly Id get the Alpine. Its gonna give you its rated 500 watts, be well built and noise free. And for $150 shipped on sale, its hard to beat for the price. Im with you in liking RF amps but Alpine makes a good amp too.....well except for their Class D's.

Since you canceled them both, get the KnuKonceptz kit I linked to. Knu makes their own stuff and its just as good as any of the "high end" brands out there. They distribute it themselves so that's why its so much cheaper. Its all I use. The one I linked to would be the cheapest one they had. If you can spend a little more, then you can move up to oxygen free copper instead of the copper clad aluminum that is what that first kit is. This would be more like what Im talking about for $30. If you think youll ever add more amps, then youll want to get a 4 gauge kit instead so you wont have to run your power wire again. If not, 8 gauge is just fine.[/QUOTE]

[Lasareath]

So I spent just about the same thing, $160 for the amp shipped and $38 for the wiring kit shipped. Just under $200.00 for 500 watts Mono!

Should be very Cool.

I went with the 8 Gauge Amp kit because the car already has 160,000 miles and I want a new car by 2015

I'll post pics and updated info as I start the install, thanks again for your Help Mac!

Sal

[MacLeod]

Don't need 1/0 ground. Power wire coming in is 4 gauge so that's whats going out.

What amp did you settle on? The Alpine?

[Lasareath]

I bought the JL Audio, the one you suggested above.

Don't need 1/0 ground. Power wire coming in is 4 gauge so that's whats going out.

What amp did you settle on? The Alpine?

[Lasareath]

The one thing I forgot about is that I wanted that remote bass potentiometer so i just bought this one:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271165579729...84.m1497.l2649

[Lasareath]

Well Today I started and finished installing the New Sub, Well I bought the sub 3 years ago and my cats have been using as a stratching post and bed so the carpet is really dirty and torn. Oh well it matches my car perfectly! LOL

I started at Noon and I just finished at 6:00pm, I found a lot of spare change and a bunch of French Fries I lost many years ago.

The Sub really sounds Great! I installed the Amp under the spare tire, in the void where the wheel is. I Bolted down a couple pieces of plywood through the floor boards with some 5/16" lag bolts with large washers and nylon lock nuts.

Here are the Pics:

Thanks a lot Mac for all your Help.

Sal

[whgarrett1394]

How does the new stuff sound?

[Lasareath]

Sounds very Nice!

The problem now is I want more!!!!

[exalted512]

Have you tried facing the sub towards the rear of the car?
-Cody

[Sherardp]

I have the SMD tool here and will tell you it renders excellent results. By ear is a great method but this tool really works well. I'm using two Crescendo Audio BC2000Ds powering SSA Zcons and it freaking slams. The SMD is a great tool to use, but as for buying one I'm not sure if you would need to spend the cash for a one time install. There are some shops that will loan them out to you for a small fee. I would be willing to let you guys borrow mine as long as it came back to me.

As for Oscope some people have used the small pocket types for setting gains with excellent results as well. You can find these on Amazon for a reasonable price.