Free Shipping on All Orders 1-866-764-1801

Vist our Online Store
+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 30 of 33
  1. #1

    Member Sales Rating: (1)

    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Northern IL
    Posts
    168

    Default DIY Sennheiser HD650 cable build

    I’ve read too many posts, here and on other forums, about the Sennheiser HD650 stock cable being less than it should be. So I decided to build my own. (Sorry, no pictures – maybe next time!)

    I bought Cardas HPSC and GRQ SS connectors. The HPSC are the can connectors and the GRQ SS is the ¼” plug. I don’t normally plug the vendors I buy from unless they do something special but I bought these from Dedicated Audio LLC out of Arizona. No hassle, good communication. I ordered two of each of these and they were drop shipped from Cardas. There was some miscommunication and I only got one set of the HPSC’s. Within 30 minutes of emailing Dedicated Audio on a Friday evening I had a reply and shortly after an assurance that Cardas was drop shipping another set to me. I also bought 15 feet of ¼” tech flex. For wire I used 10 feet of Mogami Neglex 2534 which I’ve used for interconnects in the past. Some ¼” and 3/8” heat shrink from my stock to finish things off with. About $75 in parts. You will need an ohm meter if you use this wire – it’s only two colors for four wires.

    My headphone amp is a Bottlehead Crack with the Speedball upgrade. I also upgraded many of the internal components as I built it. If you’re curious head over to Bottlehead and in the Gallery forum - a couple pages in now – you’ll find my Crack on Speed with Blueballs. I’m using an Amperex 7316 tube in the 12AU7 spot and a heavy duty Raytheon 6080WC in the other socket. I really didn’t have any issues with the sound of the HD650’s but I needed to hear for myself.

    I started on the ¼ plug side and my first confusion was that the plug has no connection for the right side positive – it’s just a barrel! If you’ve not worked with the Cardas line you’ll also find that what they provide to solder the ground to can be tricky if you don’t keep things smooth. I usually dent the inner ring and solder into the dent. This time I got over zealous and broke the ring – it actually worked out better as I could pull the ground wires into the gap to solder. I used about ½ of the shield wire and the two blue wires for ground. Measure out the left and right positive so that the right will have insulation on it as it goes over the left. Solder in the left (center) first. For the right side I just spread the fine wires from the Mogami over the barrel and soldered it down. Because the Cardas and Mogami are good quality it took and was easy to do. You MUST insure this is not a cold joint. Tug on it a bit to see if it holds – I just hook a small screwdriver under the wire and pull up slightly. I then combined the shield wire and the two blue conductors and soldered them into the gap I made. I put two layers of 1/4” heat shrink up into the plug as far as I could – one at a time. Then I worked the tech flex slightly over the connector – then worked the barrel over this and screwed it down. The tech flex is now inside the barrel. I dinged the tech flex a bit working the outside of the barrel over that last inch or so where the heat shrink had built up over the Mogami so I pulled about 6” of 3/8” heat shrink right up to the barrel and heated it down. Once you have all this done there is no going back into the barrel without messing up a great deal of heat shrink and tech flex – so make sure all is well before you begin to pull and heat.

    Notice I didn’t keep track of which signal wire went where – I’ll ohm that out when I get to the other ends.

    I cut the tech flex back about 12 inches from the end of where the Mogami ended. My stock cables have about 9” of “hang”. I heated a small piece of heat shrink over this end of tech flex to keep it in place. I removed the outside insulation and all of the shield up to this point in the wire and untwisted the two pairs. Mogami wire has a center piece of plastic that you’ll need to cut off as well. Get out the ohm meter. The tip of the plug is the left channel, the center is right and the base is ground. Because both blue wires are ground it won’t matter which of these you mate to the white wires. Once I determined which wire went where I used a small piece of heat shrink to “mark” each side – red to right, black to left. I kept the twists intact for each pair and put enough heat shrink on these pairs to leave about 1” at the connector end. Red on right, black on left. I put tech flex on these two pairs next (the red heat shrink is now just barely visible). In order to pull ¼ inch heat shrink over this (to secure the base) tape the ends at the connector down tightly and the heat shrink will go right over without messing up the tech flex. I finished the junction with some 3/8” heat shrink – a couple of layers to pull it all together. I would not strip less than 12” of wire back – by the time you’ve got this split looking good you’ll have lost an inch or two due to heat shrink. Now I carefully pulled the tape off of the other end and put some heat shrink here to hold down the tech flex. I used my red/black combo again but it’s not necessary because you can see the red heat shrink through the tech flex.
    The HPSC connectors do NOT have any cover over the connectors, the plastic is decent but not something you can stand your soldering iron on for a long time. You’ve got to measure carefully. The small pin is the signal pin (white wire), the large pin is ground (blue wire). I had to take one of my ends apart after the work was done because I had a cold joint that broke free – that’s no fun - so take your time and insure those pins are done correctly. I used two layers of 3/8” heat shrink to cover the open area after my soldering was done. You can slip this over the connectors if you forget to put it over the wire before soldering. There is a ridge on the HPSC connectors – you can heat shrink just slightly over this but not too far as it will not connect to the headphones correctly – another learning experience!

    Issues – Mogami wire is very flexible but the tech flex stiffens it up – and I’m not loving it. The tech flex can also be “heard” if you move around. Hard to describe – but if you run your fingers up something with ridges you’ll hear it – if it’s smooth you probably won’t. I won’t put tech flex on the next version. It does look nice and clean but…
    The ¼ Cardas is nice but I don’t like how it finished. You can’t get 1” heat shrink over it so I’ll get something larger in a 3:1 shrink and see if I can get more of a strain relief on it.

    The sound (why this was done in the first place)… OMG!! These aren’t broken in by any means and the bass is over the top. Separation of voice/instruments seems much better. It’s a cleaner sound by far over stock. I’m not going to rave on until they’ve got more time on them but I doubt that the stock cables will ever be used again!

    Was it worth $75 and a couple of hours? Absolutely.

  2. #2

    Member Sales Rating: (13)

    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Ashland, Oregon
    Posts
    2,196

    Default

    Very cool. I considered doing this for my Senn 600's but opted not to because I rarely use them. I heard lots of good results from people using the Mogami cable also the Cardas cable and the Canare.

  3. #3

    Member Sales Rating: (0)

    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Columbus, OH
    Posts
    251

    Default

    I actually used the Mogami Neglex 2534 when I made a custom cable for Denon D2000s. It's very good stuff.

    Do you at least have any pictures of the finished product? I think you did a good job describing it and the process, but I'd be interested to actually see it.

    As for the sound - I upgraded the cable on both my D2000s my HD600s, and I've never looked back since. I haven't tried it with the DT880 yet, but I may in the near future (and make it detachable)
    USB Interface: Stello U2, Nuforce uDAC2 ║ DAC: Stello DA100 Signature, Keces DA-151 MK2
    Headamp: Darkvoice 336SE, Bottlehead Crack ║ Headphones: Sennheiser HD650, Audio-Technica ATH-M50
    Amplifiers: PS Audio 200CX, DIY Class D Monoblocks ║ Speakers: Dayton RS621, Focal 807V, LSA1 Statement, Soliloquy 5.3
    Power: Yulong P18, Rotel RLC900, Cyberpower 1000VA PFC UPS

  4. #4

    Member Sales Rating: (4)

    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    flower mound, tx
    Posts
    4,254

    Default

    The old style Cardas blue "smurf" cable is pretty flexible. But of course it doesn't look as nice.
    "The legitimate powers of government extend to such acts only as are injurious to others. But it does me no injury for my neighbour to say there are twenty gods, or no god. It neither picks my pocket nor breaks my leg." --Thomas Jefferson

  5. #5

    Member Sales Rating: (1)

    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Northern IL
    Posts
    168

    Default

    Da pics...

    I have a hook above the amp to hold the cable straight up. I didn't like the way it looked without that - kinda kinked over.
    Click image for larger version

Name:	DSC_8859_zpsad75e0f3.jpg
Views:	334
Size:	269.7 KB
ID:	83132

    Just don't like the way this ended - I'd like to put some heat shrink over the body of the barrel and continue it down the tech flex.
    Click image for larger version

Name:	DSC_8848_zps6f897886.jpg
Views:	281
Size:	72.2 KB
ID:	83133

    Click image for larger version

Name:	DSC_8852_zps9b9787c5.jpg
Views:	263
Size:	255.0 KB
ID:	83134

    Click image for larger version

Name:	DSC_8853_zps8442ca78.jpg
Views:	282
Size:	143.3 KB
ID:	83137

    Click image for larger version

Name:	DSC_8857_zps13617dd8.jpg
Views:	296
Size:	327.6 KB
ID:	83135

    Junction could be cleaner but it works.
    Click image for larger version

Name:	DSC_8854_zps17bd3d0c.jpg
Views:	251
Size:	342.9 KB
ID:	83136

  6. #6

    Member Sales Rating: (10)

    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Winfield, IL
    Posts
    1,270

    Default

    Cool Aaron. Thanks for sharing your experience.

  7. #7

    Member Sales Rating: (0)

    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    2

    Default

    Thanks for the post...it was very helpful.

  8. #8

    Member Sales Rating: (0)

    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    1

    Default

    Glad I found your thread, very helpful. I have two thumbs unfortunately but an eBay seller is making me a 20' with mogami mini quad for my 600's for about $85. Thanks for your impressions.

  9. #9

    Member Sales Rating: (12)

    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Plainfield, Illinois
    Posts
    5,280

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ALL212 View Post
    Da pics...

    I have a hook above the amp to hold the cable straight up. I didn't like the way it looked without that - kinda kinked over.
    The other thing is you need some headphone wire poles to keep the cable more horizontal. Your cable dips down towards floor and back up; makes it hard on the electrons to get up to the headphones. Some of them get tired and forget what they were supposed to do, degrading SQ.

    Good work Aaron!
    Make yourself necessary to someone. Ralph Waldo Emerson

    Salk SoundScape 8's
    Krell KSL Class A Pre w/ KSL Phono
    Krell Class A KSA-250
    Harmonic Technology Pro 9+
    Squeezebox Touch / Welborne Labs PS / I2S Out Mod
    Denon 3910 w/I2S/DSD Out
    Twisted Pear Buffalo III Dual Mono ESS Sabre32 DAC
    Sennheiser HD650
    Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive
    AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm
    Dynavector 17D3
    Shunyata Hydra (Original)
    NHT B-12d subs
    GIK Acoustic Treatments


    CP Showcase

  10. #10

    Member Sales Rating: (4)

    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    flower mound, tx
    Posts
    4,254

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by SCompRacer View Post
    The other thing is you need some headphone wire poles to keep the cable more horizontal. Your cable dips down towards floor and back up; makes it hard on the electrons to get up to the headphones. Some of them get tired and forget what they were supposed to do, degrading SQ.
    Good work Aaron!
    Only with tube amps. SS amps push holes.
    "The legitimate powers of government extend to such acts only as are injurious to others. But it does me no injury for my neighbour to say there are twenty gods, or no god. It neither picks my pocket nor breaks my leg." --Thomas Jefferson

  11. #11

    Member Sales Rating: (16)

    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    In A Van Down By The River
    Posts
    21,190

    Default

    But, but, but Aaron, we all know cables don't matter.

    Nice work and write up, as usual. I am not a headphone guy but if I was I'd sure give this some thought as well as having a cool headphone amp like your Bottle Crack Blueball.

    H9
    Last edited by heiney9; 03-26-2013 at 06:40 PM.
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass

    Pass Aleph 30; Eastern Electric Mini Max; Adcom GDA600; MIT S3/Z Pc; SDA 1C; Squeezebox; Tubes add soul!

  12. #12

    Member Sales Rating: (1)

    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Northern IL
    Posts
    168

    Default

    I was considering cooling the cable with liquid nitrogen to help make the cable slippery. I figured less resistance but then I thought about it and realized it would only be worse with the ice forming and the electrons truly sliding back down. I've got an old bit bucket I used to use on the 'puter that I've converted to analog. Every couple of minutes I empty it back over the tubes. I suppose I could use a sump pump to make it automatic but if I put that in the wrong place it could suck the music out of the headphone cable.

    I'm really lost here...I need help.
    Aaron

  13. #13

    Member Sales Rating: (14)

    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    3,937

    Default

    If you ever want to win the "cables do matter" argument, all you need to do is demonstrate the HD-650 or HD-600 with the stock cable versus just about any other cable. It's clear as day.

    One thing I would have done differently is make the left/right split outs a bit longer after you form the Y. The cable will be more comfortable to wear that way. Nice work though!
    Good music, a good source, and good power can make SDA's sing. Tubes make them dance.

  14. #14

    Member Sales Rating: (4)

    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    flower mound, tx
    Posts
    4,254

    Default

    As obvious as it is to us, the flat earth guys will tell you otherwise.
    Amps, cables DACs, etc. don't matter. I guess that logic makes dating
    fat girls easy. It's all in your head!!!
    "The legitimate powers of government extend to such acts only as are injurious to others. But it does me no injury for my neighbour to say there are twenty gods, or no god. It neither picks my pocket nor breaks my leg." --Thomas Jefferson

  15. #15

    Member Sales Rating: (1)

    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Northern IL
    Posts
    168

    Default

    Update: Couldn't take it - too much noise from the techflex. I pulled all the heatshrink and techflex off of the can end. Stripped back another 6" or so of cable. Put in a cable pant and minimal heatshrink and then curled the ends of the heatshrink at the connectors away from my body. Much better...

    Click image for larger version

Name:	DSC_8866_zpsaefecbbe.jpg
Views:	219
Size:	79.3 KB
ID:	83522

    Click image for larger version

Name:	DSC_8869_zps08ce66fc.jpg
Views:	200
Size:	56.5 KB
ID:	83523

  16. #16

    Member Sales Rating: (1)

    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Descending toward the moon in the CLEM (Chinese Lunar Excursion Module), looking for Chang'e
    Posts
    11,464

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by nspindel View Post
    If you ever want to win the "cables do matter" argument, all you need to do is demonstrate the HD-650 or HD-600 with the stock cable versus just about any other cable. It's clear as day.

    One thing I would have done differently is make the left/right split outs a bit longer after you form the Y. The cable will be more comfortable to wear that way. Nice work though!
    That is not only TRUE! But a "great" suggestion that might just end some of these interminable debates!

    cnh
    Onkyo TX-SR 805 System #1 HT AVR
    Office Two Channel: LSi-7s (Nakamichi CA-5, NAD 214, Pioneer BDP51fd)
    Vintage Polks: Polk Monitor 5As, Monitor 7Bs [HK 730], Monitor 10As [Marantz 2265], SDA-2Bs [Jolida JD-303, Jolida MV-MK4]
    Headphones: HD600, Q701, ATH-M50s etc. Bravo Audio Ocean amp., Onkyo P-304, Adcom GFA-555, Technics Direct Drive TT

  17. #17

    Member Sales Rating: (1)

    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Northern IL
    Posts
    168

    Default

    Another round...

    Da Parts..
    Click image for larger version

Name:	DSC_8882.jpg
Views:	205
Size:	517.7 KB
ID:	83706

    1/4" end completed.
    Click image for larger version

Name:	DSC_8888.jpg
Views:	205
Size:	520.9 KB
ID:	83713

    Starting the "Y"
    Click image for larger version

Name:	DSC_8889.jpg
Views:	208
Size:	548.4 KB
ID:	83710

    Stripped Y.
    Click image for larger version

Name:	DSC_8890.jpg
Views:	181
Size:	565.0 KB
ID:	83707

    Y completed.
    Click image for larger version

Name:	DSC_8891.jpg
Views:	179
Size:	540.8 KB
ID:	83709

    Left and Right.
    Click image for larger version

Name:	DSC_8893.jpg
Views:	167
Size:	523.6 KB
ID:	83712
    Click image for larger version

Name:	DSC_8894.jpg
Views:	146
Size:	519.6 KB
ID:	83714

    Twisted!!
    Click image for larger version

Name:	DSC_8897.jpg
Views:	171
Size:	564.2 KB
ID:	83708
    Attached Images  

  18. #18

    Member Sales Rating: (1)

    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Northern IL
    Posts
    168

    Default

    Finished:

    Name:  DSC_8901.jpg
Views: 1307
Size:  539.3 KB

  19. #19

    Member Sales Rating: (13)

    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Ashland, Oregon
    Posts
    2,196

    Default

    Nice work. How does it sound?

  20. #20

    Member Sales Rating: (1)

    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Northern IL
    Posts
    168

    Default

    When I first got the HD650's I liked them - but really didn't listen to them much. They were "o.k.".

    With these cables I don't listen much to the main system!

    Its'a nice'a improvement!

  21. #21

    Member Sales Rating: (16)

    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Andromeda
    Posts
    14,230

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by SCompRacer View Post
    The other thing is you need some headphone wire poles to keep the cable more horizontal. Your cable dips down towards floor and back up; makes it hard on the electrons to get up to the headphones. Some of them get tired and forget what they were supposed to do, degrading SQ.

    Good work Aaron!
    Precisely why I never let my wife get on top.

  22. #22

    Member Sales Rating: (12)

    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Plainfield, Illinois
    Posts
    5,280

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Keiko View Post
    Precisely why I never let my wife get on top.
    Are you referring to that radiation term, fallout? With headphones, that means the music stops.
    Make yourself necessary to someone. Ralph Waldo Emerson

    Salk SoundScape 8's
    Krell KSL Class A Pre w/ KSL Phono
    Krell Class A KSA-250
    Harmonic Technology Pro 9+
    Squeezebox Touch / Welborne Labs PS / I2S Out Mod
    Denon 3910 w/I2S/DSD Out
    Twisted Pear Buffalo III Dual Mono ESS Sabre32 DAC
    Sennheiser HD650
    Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive
    AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm
    Dynavector 17D3
    Shunyata Hydra (Original)
    NHT B-12d subs
    GIK Acoustic Treatments


    CP Showcase

  23. #23

    Member Sales Rating: (16)

    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Andromeda
    Posts
    14,230

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by SCompRacer View Post
    Are you referring to that radiation term, fallout? With headphones, that means the music stops.
    Time to corral the tadpole, men. Put a helmet on that soldier.

  24. #24

    Member Sales Rating: (0)

    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    St. Louis, Missouri
    Posts
    51

    Default

    I like the look of how they turned out. Techflex looks much better, but you're right about the noise transmission... Annoying as hell.
    11.3 Theater
    RTi A7 Fronts - CSi A6 Center - 65-RT DSX Wides - RTi A1 DSX Highs - FXi A6 Rears - FXi A6 Surround Backs
    eD A5-350 (L-LFE) - eD A5-350 (R-LFE) - SVS 20-39+ (Rear-LFE) - Aura Pro x 8 Seats
    Onkyo TX-NR3010 (11.3 Neo:X) - Sony TA-N9000ES Amplifier
    JVC RS-20u - Elite 120" 1.3 Gain - XBMC Processor - TrippLite 30A Full Theater Backup


    2.1 Studio / PC
    Mackie HR824 Powered Monitors - Infinity Kappa Perfect 12" DIY
    Aune USB 24/192 DAC HPA - Sennheiser HD650/600

  25. #25

    Member Sales Rating: (0)

    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Manteca, CA
    Posts
    131

    Default

    Great info. Thanks for sharing.

  26. #26

    Member Sales Rating: (0)

    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    108

    Default

    I see that the Y area has a rubber/plastic sheath on it. Is it a pre-made y-shaped sheath? Or did you make it? If it is a pre-made sheath, could you let me know where you got it from? Thanks.
    Front Speakers: Polk Audio LSi15 x 2
    Center Speaker: Polk Audio LSiC
    Rear Speakers: Polk Audio LSiF/X x 2
    Subwoofers: Polk Audio PSW505 x 2
    AVR: Denon AVR-3313CI
    Amp: Emotiva XPA-5

  27. #27

    Member Sales Rating: (0)

    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    108

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by amgala View Post
    I see that the Y area has a rubber/plastic sheath on it. Is it a pre-made y-shaped sheath? Or did you make it? If it is a pre-made sheath, could you let me know where you got it from? Thanks.
    After some further research, I have found out that they are called cable pants.
    Front Speakers: Polk Audio LSi15 x 2
    Center Speaker: Polk Audio LSiC
    Rear Speakers: Polk Audio LSiF/X x 2
    Subwoofers: Polk Audio PSW505 x 2
    AVR: Denon AVR-3313CI
    Amp: Emotiva XPA-5

  28. #28

    Member Sales Rating: (12)

    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Plainfield, Illinois
    Posts
    5,280

    Default

    Mogami wins! Thanks! My 650's never sounded better!
    Make yourself necessary to someone. Ralph Waldo Emerson

    Salk SoundScape 8's
    Krell KSL Class A Pre w/ KSL Phono
    Krell Class A KSA-250
    Harmonic Technology Pro 9+
    Squeezebox Touch / Welborne Labs PS / I2S Out Mod
    Denon 3910 w/I2S/DSD Out
    Twisted Pear Buffalo III Dual Mono ESS Sabre32 DAC
    Sennheiser HD650
    Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive
    AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm
    Dynavector 17D3
    Shunyata Hydra (Original)
    NHT B-12d subs
    GIK Acoustic Treatments


    CP Showcase

  29. #29

    Member Sales Rating: (0)

    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    NW Indianapolis Indiana
    Posts
    9,137

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by SCompRacer View Post
    Mogami wins! Thanks! My 650's never sounded better!
    Bet they would sound even better with my Meridian Headphone amp connected to them ...
    Advice is free, the Flea Market is earned - F1Nut

    Main HT: APC H15 | Pio 51FD | Uverse DVR | Xbox 360 | Squeezebox Classic | Integra DTR 5.9 | Carver AV-705x & M1.0t MKII Opt002 | LSi 15 | LSiC | LSi F/x | Kimber Hero IC & 8VS SC

    Office Rig: Win 7 -> DacMagic w/ Pangea PSU | Pro-ject Debut III | Sunfire TGP-II | Parasound HCA-750ii | Polk RTA 11TL | Cables TBA

    Bedroom: Uverse DVR | Roku 2 | Samsung LCD | SurroundBar 2000

    Sales Rating
    Gear

  30. #30

    Member Sales Rating: (12)

    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Plainfield, Illinois
    Posts
    5,280

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by EndersShadow View Post
    Bet they would sound even better with my Meridian Headphone amp connected to them ...
    Might depend where...in the office system or two channel. I finally got around to installing a headphone jack in my DIY DAC. The phone section of my output board will drive up to 250mA of dynamic can. Aaron brought his 650's down and plugged in, said it sounded pretty good.
    Make yourself necessary to someone. Ralph Waldo Emerson

    Salk SoundScape 8's
    Krell KSL Class A Pre w/ KSL Phono
    Krell Class A KSA-250
    Harmonic Technology Pro 9+
    Squeezebox Touch / Welborne Labs PS / I2S Out Mod
    Denon 3910 w/I2S/DSD Out
    Twisted Pear Buffalo III Dual Mono ESS Sabre32 DAC
    Sennheiser HD650
    Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive
    AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm
    Dynavector 17D3
    Shunyata Hydra (Original)
    NHT B-12d subs
    GIK Acoustic Treatments


    CP Showcase

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

     

Similar Threads

  1. Sennheiser HD-600 DIY cable
    By Ern Dog in forum DIY, Mods & Tweaks
    Replies: 12
    Last Post: 04-04-2011, 11:59 AM
  2. SOLD FS: Sennheiser HD650 Headphones
    By AsSiMiLaTeD in forum For Sale (FS) Classifieds
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 07-10-2008, 10:22 AM
  3. For Sale Sennheiser HD650 w/ Zu Mobius
    By Gaara in forum For Sale (FS) Classifieds
    Replies: 11
    Last Post: 07-02-2008, 08:19 AM
  4. WTB: Sennheiser HD650
    By AsSiMiLaTeD in forum Wanted (WTB) Classifieds
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 08-14-2007, 02:52 PM
  5. Sennheiser hd650's
    By sucks2beme in forum 2 Channel Audio
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 07-23-2005, 02:44 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts