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  1. #1

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    Default Replacement 6.5 woofers for Monitor 10s

    1st Post here...Looking to replace my 6.5" woofers on my Monitor 10s, I just upgraded my crossovers and the Tweeters to the RDO-198s and they sound amazing! But the woofers now need replacing. I found these on eBay, wondering if anyone has used these, and can verify there sound quality at all??

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=330900506344

    Also, if anyone knows a better drop in replacement for the woofers, please pass me a link!

    Thanks,
    Eric

  2. #2

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    Depending on which revision of the M10 you have, it is either the MW6501 or MW6503 which according to this post are still available through Polk. Call Polk Customer service, ask to speak to Helen and mention that you are a Club Polk member and you will get them for ~$50 each shipped for free.

    I would go that route over some other speaker that the crossover wasn't designed around.
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    If you have upgraded the XO and tweeters why the need for new woofers?
    I think you should dwelve deeper into the XO/198 upgrade you have done as something may be wrong.

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    Which version 10 do you have? What xover mods did you do? Simply replace caps & resistors with like values or something else? AFAIK, the RDO-198 is not a drop in replacement for any tweeter that ever came in a monitor 10? If the woofers you have aren't suffering from magnet shift or some other form of damage, there is no reason to replace them. Unless you use replacements from Polk intend for your version of monitor 10, you will degrade things rather than improve them.

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    Totally agree with previous post. You didn't specify if/why you modified the crossovers specifically for the 198's, but the 194's are the "drop in" replacement for 10B's (you didn't mention if you had an "A" or "B", but I'm guessing "B" because people don't generally want to replace Peerless tweets).
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    Welcome to the forum. I would not recommend the woofer you posted a link to. It may indeed (or may not be suitable for replacing the model driver described in the ad but your speakers do not use that driver. Listen to the other guys who have posted. They are giving you good sound advice.

  7. #7

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    Thanks for the info guys. I do have the 10b model and downloaded the schematic on site here for the xover upgrade which is the reason I went for the 198s and not the 194s.

    The issue with the woofers, they are showing their age. One of them pops on medium volume. And If I replace one, I might as well replace them all. I thought Polk was out of the replacement 6.5? If they have them in stock I will stick with those for sure!

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    The popping may not be the woofer. There are a couple of other easy tests I would make before I replaced them just because they're showing their age. Switch the speaker cables on your amp. Put the left in the right and the right in the left. If the problem moves to the other speaker it's not the speaker but something in your electronics maybe your amp or source ie turntable or CD player. You can swap the wires around on these and maybe isolate the problem. If the pop stays in the same speaker it's the speaker
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  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by EricMB View Post
    Thanks for the info guys. I do have the 10b model and downloaded the schematic on site here for the xover upgrade which is the reason I went for the 198s and not the 194s.

    The issue with the woofers, they are showing their age. One of them pops on medium volume. And If I replace one, I might as well replace them all. I thought Polk was out of the replacement 6.5? If they have them in stock I will stick with those for sure!
    Did you do some kind of TL upgrade to the 10Bs crossovers designed for the RDO-198 tweeters?

    If you just did the standard new capacitor/resistor replacement (Sonicraft, ClarityCap or whatever) I think you will need RDO-194 tweeters for your speakers to sound right. The crossovers are different for 198s.
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    they must of came with the SL2500 tweeter and there is a SL3000 mod that you also need to get/make different inductors for the SL3000/RDO-198. So I'm thinking he has the SL2500 monitor 10's

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    Quote Originally Posted by pitdogg2 View Post
    they must of came with the SL2500 tweeter and there is a SL3000 mod that you also need to get/make different inductors for the SL3000/RDO-198. So I'm thinking he has the SL2500 monitor 10's
    I would say you are right. When I think of 10Bs I think of them using the sl2000 like mine had.
    SDA 2BTL Sonicaps Mills resistors RDO-198s New gaskets H-nuts Erse inductors Crossover upgrades by westmassguy
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  12. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by TennMan View Post
    The crossovers are different for 198s.
    Yes, I did an upgrade on the crossovers. The 198s sound amazing!

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    Quote Originally Posted by DON73 View Post
    The popping may not be the woofer. There are a couple of other easy tests I would make before I replaced them just because they're showing their age. Switch the speaker cables on your amp. Put the left in the right and the right in the left. If the problem moves to the other speaker it's not the speaker but something in your electronics maybe your amp or source ie turntable or CD player. You can swap the wires around on these and maybe isolate the problem. If the pop stays in the same speaker it's the speaker
    I tested already on different speakers using the same Amp and cables. It doesn't pop on the other speakers. I will go ahead and try the reverse trick to see if it could be something wrong with the new crossover. Thanks for the tip!

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    Quote Originally Posted by EricMB View Post
    I tested already on different speakers using the same Amp and cables. It doesn't pop on the other speakers. I will go ahead and try the reverse trick to see if it could be something wrong with the new crossover. Thanks for the tip!
    Welcome to the forum. Be sure to check and make sure the cabinets are properly sealed. If they're not, the woofer may be exceeding it's cone excursion limits. Press in and hold the Passive radiator. Both woofers should move out, and then SLOWLY move back in. 4-5 seconds is normal. If they move back in quickly, you've got air leakage.
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