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  1. #1

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    Default What's The Best Glue To Use For Repair?

    I wanted to see what everyone was using to re-glue the rear corner trim pieces on Polk speakers?

    I have some Rt3000p satellites with loose trim pieces and need to glue them back on.

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    Super Glue doesn't seem to hold up.

    What should I try next JB Weld?
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    Hey Gatecrasher, not sure if this can work, but you can try hot glue. If you have the gun and sticks, it's worth a shot!
    Frank.
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  3. #3

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    Oh almost forgot, make sure you clean off all residue before trying the hot glue.
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    Ay-Oh Joey catch this 40# box... naw, don't worry I'm only doin' 35mph!!!!!

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    Actually, 3M spray contact adhesive would work best.
    It is used to adhere laminate to new countertops and the like.

    Ideally, you would spray a light coat on the trim piece and a light coat on the location on the speaker where the trim resides, let it sit for ~1 minute and then stick them together. That process involves a lot of masking to avoid overspray but is also the best bet.
    Once the trim is placed, you can unmask and wipe off any overspray with lacquer thinner (be careful around the painted parts as the lacquer thinner will strip the paint.)
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  5. #5

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    +1!! Even better solution!! I just used some to re-attach the head-liner in my old Mustang! Should have seen this.
    Excellent example!
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    Ay-Oh Joey catch this 40# box... naw, don't worry I'm only doin' 35mph!!!!!

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by ZLTFUL View Post
    Actually, 3M spray contact adhesive would work best.
    It is used to adhere laminate to new countertops and the like.

    Ideally, you would spray a light coat on the trim piece and a light coat on the location on the speaker where the trim resides, let it sit for ~1 minute and then stick them together. That process involves a lot of masking to avoid overspray but is also the best bet.
    Once the trim is placed, you can unmask and wipe off any overspray with lacquer thinner (be careful around the painted parts as the lacquer thinner will strip the paint.)
    ^^^^^^this but I'd get a brush on instead. make sure you do both parts as contact cement only sticks to contact cement.

  7. #7

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    Which 3M contact adhesive? They make like 10 different types.

    http://www.acfcom.com/product_profil...-bond_main.htm

    It would be nice to get one that you can brush on.
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  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by Gatecrasher View Post
    Which 3M contact adhesive? They make like 10 different types.

    http://www.acfcom.com/product_profil...-bond_main.htm

    It would be nice to get one that you can brush on.
    Doesn't have to be 3m your local hardware store will have a brush on. One word of CAUTION get it straight the first time cause you only have one shot usually. line it up at the top and fold over towards the front if you get my drift...

    when it sticks it's not maybe IT IS STUCK!

    if you must get spray the 77 is what i have used in the past for car headliner works very well.

  9. #9

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    Looking online at Home Depot and Lowes, all they have is Dap contact adhesive gel. Anyone use that?

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  10. #10

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    Contact adhesives are very good; just be sure to follow the directions exactly - most of them require that you coat both surfaces with a thin, even coating of the adhesive, let it dry, then push the two surfaces together to bond. That's the way the stuff works.

    I also want to put in a word about "super glue"; i.e., cyanoacrylate adhesives. This class of glues really is super, but you've gotta use the right tool for the job. The so-called "thin CA" (which is what you'll usually find in the hardware stores) is fine for certain things but cannot fill gaps. The medium and thick grades of CA are much better adhesives for the kind of stuff I want to glue together! :-) I learned about this stuff when my son was interested (early adolescence) in R/C aircraft. That phase came and went, but I keep a stock of thin, medium, and thick CA as well as CA debonder for when things go wrong!

    FWIW, here's my usual source for CA adhesives:
    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...acrylate+glues
    all the best,
    mrh

  11. #11

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    Thanks for the replies. This is a pretty-common issue with vintage Polk speakers like the RT3000p that has plastic trim on the back edges. I'm really looking for a proven winner that forum members have actually used for this exact purpose that has stood the test of time.
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  12. #12

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    You are over thinking this. Titebond or even Gorilla Glue will work great.
    --Gary--

  13. #13

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    Well I took the piece of trim and went to Home Depot and asked the rep there what he recommended and he pointed me to the Dap contact cement. They had small bottles so I didn't have to buy the big can. I just finished gluing one speaker. I followed the directions exactly as mhardy6647 recommended and we'll see how it works. I think it's going to work great though.

    I have another one to do yet.

    Thanks guys.
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  14. #14

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    5 minute epoxy would have done the trick. Use blue masking tape as a clamp.
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  15. #15

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    I used spray contact cement to repair my Crown speaker's and timewindow's speaker cloth. For the tough jobs I used J-B weld – KwikWeld.
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  16. #16

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    Well I am very pleased with the DAP Weldwood contact cement.

    I think that's what I'm using from now on.

    No clamping required and easy to control.
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