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  1. #1

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    Default Original RTA12 's?

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    From what I've learned off here so far, I be-leave these to be original rta-12's with a peerless tweeter. I think the stands have but cut down. I'm working on getting a parts list together and am having trouble with some cap values. C1 & C3 . Also is C4 for same value as C6 ? I found allot of info on the 12 B&C but not to much on the original. If I'm missing a thread some place please pass it along. Thanks with any help.


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  2. #2

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    list of schematics to start with.... http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/show...ELS-except-SDA
    Polk RTA 11T ....new Xovers( Gen1 + Mundorf MOX), rewired, damped, Armacell, rings, spikes, RDO-194....
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  3. #3

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    Quote Originally Posted by EricFromMich View Post
    Attachment 84033Attachment 84034

    From what I've learned off here so far, I be-leave these to be original rta-12's with a peerless tweeter. I think the stands have but cut down. I'm working on getting a parts list together and am having trouble with some cap values. C1 & C3 . Also is C4 for same value as C6 ? I found allot of info on the 12 B&C but not to much on the original. If I'm missing a thread some place please pass it along. Thanks with any help.


    Attachment 84035Attachment 84036
    your best option is to read the values off the caps and resistors. You may have to des older if the values are hidden. Also there is no need to replace the Mylar bypass caps if you use high quality film caps.
    "Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills, polyswitches removed, Lg Solen inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR binding posts, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheets (3" strips) installed on back wall behind MW's & Tweeters, interior of cabinets sealed, AI-1 interface with 1000VA transformer

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    Quote Originally Posted by 11tsteve View Post
    list of schematics to start with.... http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/show...ELS-except-SDA
    Polk has little info on the rta12's . I've tired to compare them but from the link above but they seem way off. Thanks steve.

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    Quote Originally Posted by drumminman View Post
    your best option is to read the values off the caps and resistors. You may have to des older if the values are hidden. Also there is no need to replace the Mylar bypass caps if you use high quality film caps.
    I figured as much, was trying to avoid taken them apart more then I had to. I just dont know if the value is on some of them. If they have values have drained then my readings would not make it right.

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    http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/atta...9&d=1155781929


    I think this might found the winner just had to look at it with a fresh eye.

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    I would still verify by unsoldering to make sure Polk did a lot on the fly.
    Or PM Geppy1 he did a whole lot of researching on the 12 knows them inside and out.

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    Quote Originally Posted by pitdogg2 View Post
    I would still verify by unsoldering to make sure Polk did a lot on the fly.
    Or PM Geppy1 he did a whole lot of researching on the 12 knows them inside and out.
    Thanks I'll try that.

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