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  1. #1

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    Default XO Component Check

    Before I order parts for my Monitor 10B XO rebuild (going to use Sonicaps+Mills resistors), I need to know what to do about the polyswitch; specifically, I want to remove it. The schematic I'm using (dated 5/17/1989) specifies a 2.0 Ohm resistor in parallel with the 12uF cap. If I eliminate the polyswitch, do I change that resistor back to 2.5 Ohms (like the previous version of the schematic that used a fuse), or leave it at 2.0 Ohm and just replace the polyswitch with piece of solid wire?
    Yamaha DSP-A1 Integrated Amp
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  2. #2

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    Try it with a jumper, in the SDA's that's supposed to increase the highs slightly but you could try it both ways and see (hear) which way sounds best to you.
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  3. #3

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    Quote Originally Posted by StantonZ View Post
    Before I order parts for my Monitor 10B XO rebuild (going to use Sonicaps+Mills resistors), I need to know what to do about the polyswitch; specifically, I want to remove it. The schematic I'm using (dated 5/17/1989) specifies a 2.0 Ohm resistor in parallel with the 12uF cap. If I eliminate the polyswitch, do I change that resistor back to 2.5 Ohms (like the previous version of the schematic that used a fuse), or leave it at 2.0 Ohm and just replace the polyswitch with piece of solid wire?
    A .5 ohm resistor is all you need to replace it.
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
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  4. #4

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    If I replace the polyswitch with a .5 Ohm resistor, I assume I leave the 2.0 Ohm resistor alone. My question is: if I replace the polyswitch with a wire, do I change the 2.0 Ohm -> 2.5 Ohm to compensate, or will that alter the frequency response?
    Yamaha DSP-A1 Integrated Amp
    (4) Polk Monitor 10B's w/SoniCaps, Mills, and RDO-194 tweets (R/L F/R)
    (2) Polk Monitor 4's w/peerless tweets (dual centers)
    B&O TX2 Turntable
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  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by StantonZ View Post
    If I replace the polyswitch with a .5 Ohm resistor, I assume I leave the 2.0 Ohm resistor alone. My question is: if I replace the polyswitch with a wire, do I change the 2.0 Ohm -> 2.5 Ohm to compensate, or will that alter the frequency response?
    I prefer to keep the 2 ohm separate. You've got a 12uf cap accross it, as a shunt. Changing the value of the 2 ohm resistor, may have an affect on the overal frequency responsee of the tweeter in unexpected ways. You can change out the .5 ohm with a .2 or .3, or even a wire jumper, and experiment, see how hot you want the top end, without affecting the resistor/capacitor arrangement.
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
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  6. #6

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    Makes sense; that's what I was looking for. Thanks!
    Yamaha DSP-A1 Integrated Amp
    (4) Polk Monitor 10B's w/SoniCaps, Mills, and RDO-194 tweets (R/L F/R)
    (2) Polk Monitor 4's w/peerless tweets (dual centers)
    B&O TX2 Turntable
    Nakamichi Cassette Deck 1
    Pioneer CLD-99 Elite LD
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    LG LST-3410a OTA DVR
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  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by StantonZ View Post
    Makes sense; that's what I was looking for. Thanks!
    You're welcome. Play with the values if you want, they're your babies to do with as you see fit.
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
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    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, H-Nuts, BH5
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  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by westmassguy View Post
    I prefer to keep the 2 ohm separate. You've got a 12uf cap accross it, as a shunt. Changing the value of the 2 ohm resistor, may have an affect on the overal frequency responsee of the tweeter in unexpected ways. You can change out the .5 ohm with a .2 or .3, or even a wire jumper, and experiment, see how hot you want the top end, without affecting the resistor/capacitor arrangement.
    That's interesting. I once owned a pair of Bozak LS250 speakers that had a three position brightness control on the rear for the tweeters. It was really nice to be able to select how bright you wanted them to sound. If I understand you correctly it would be possible to to the same with with Polks by adding a three position rotary switch like the Bozaks had, with three different resistors attached, connected by to replace polyswitches.
    SDA 2BTL Sonicaps Mills resistors RDO-198s New gaskets H-nuts Erse inductors Crossover upgrades by westmassguy
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    Quote Originally Posted by TennMan View Post
    That's interesting. I once owned a pair of Bozak LS250 speakers that had a three position brightness control on the rear for the tweeters. It was really nice to be able to select how bright you wanted them to sound. If I understand you correctly it would be possible to to the same with with Polks by adding a three position rotary switch like the Bozaks had, with three different resistors attached, connected by to replace polyswitches.
    Theoretically, yes, but I've serviced quite a few of those multi-position switches, they get dirty and corroded, and are usually more trouble that they're worth.
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
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  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by westmassguy View Post
    Theoretically, yes, but I've serviced quite a few of those multi-position switches, they get dirty and corroded, and are usually more trouble that they're worth.
    I had the Bozaks for about 20 years with no problems from the switches but I can see how it could be a problem. The KISS concept is usually the best way to go to avoid problems down the road. :)
    SDA 2BTL Sonicaps Mills resistors RDO-198s New gaskets H-nuts Erse inductors Crossover upgrades by westmassguy
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  11. #11

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    Kiss?
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  12. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by westmassguy View Post
    Kiss?
    K.I.S.S. as in Keep it Simple Stupid. Not you, of course.
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  13. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jimbo18 View Post
    K.I.S.S. as in Keep it Simple Stupid. Not you, of course.
    Gotcha
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  14. #14

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    Yeah, what Jimbo said. Just an expression that usually applies to me. I tend to think a little out of the box sometimes and over-complicate things.
    SDA 2BTL Sonicaps Mills resistors RDO-198s New gaskets H-nuts Erse inductors Crossover upgrades by westmassguy
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  15. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by TennMan View Post
    Yeah, what Jimbo said. Just an expression that usually applies to me. I tend to think a little out of the box sometimes and over-complicate things.
    It does sound like a cool idea though.
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  16. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by TennMan View Post
    Yeah, what Jimbo said. Just an expression that usually applies to me. I tend to think a little out of the box sometimes and over-complicate things.
    You, over-complicate? Nah, say it ain't so
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  17. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by westmassguy View Post
    You, over-complicate? Nah, say it ain't so
    haha... Let's just say I like lots of options to play with.
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  18. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by TennMan View Post
    haha... Let's just say I like lots of options to play with.
    Just busting your chops Ronnie :)
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  19. #19

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    FWIW, I'm going to order the 0.5 Ohm resistor but start with a solid wire (short) and see how it sounds; I just need to look for a nice thick (solid) piece of wire here at work.
    Yamaha DSP-A1 Integrated Amp
    (4) Polk Monitor 10B's w/SoniCaps, Mills, and RDO-194 tweets (R/L F/R)
    (2) Polk Monitor 4's w/peerless tweets (dual centers)
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  20. #20

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    Remove polyswitch, measure it with an ohmmeter, see what it's resistance REALLY is. Order resistor in the same value.

    (Better still would be to measure a NEW polyswitch, as they burn up in use. Resistance increases as the contacts fry. First Guess: A new polyswitch has nowhere near 1/2 ohm of resistance.)

  21. #21

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    Quote Originally Posted by Schurkey View Post
    Remove polyswitch, measure it with an ohmmeter, see what it's resistance REALLY is. Order resistor in the same value.

    (Better still would be to measure a NEW polyswitch, as they burn up in use. Resistance increases as the contacts fry. First Guess: A new polyswitch has nowhere near 1/2 ohm of resistance.)
    Polk eventually removed the polyswitches, and in many cases, the 1st resistor down-stream was bumped up by .5 ohms.
    That value wasn't just pulled out of the air. If memory serves, new polyswitches measured between 2 and 3 ohms. After several "trips" is closer to 5 ohm. There was talk of pre-conditioning the polyswitches at the factory for consistency.
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
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  22. #22

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    Quote Originally Posted by westmassguy View Post
    If memory serves, new polyswitches measured between 2 and 3 ohms. After several "trips" is closer to 5 ohm. There was talk of pre-conditioning the polyswitches at the factory for consistency.
    Decimal error? Between .2 and .3 ohms, new, .5 ohms after the contacts burn?

    I thought Polk did end up tripping the polyswitches at least once because they were unreliable in terms of amperage needed to trip them the first time.

  23. #23

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    Quote Originally Posted by Schurkey View Post
    Decimal error? Between .2 and .3 ohms, new, .5 ohms after the contacts burn?

    I thought Polk did end up tripping the polyswitches at least once because they were unreliable in terms of amperage needed to trip them the first time.
    Thanks for pointing that out, a 5 ohm resister would not be a good thing :)
    From what I've read, they were a constant headache, which is why there was talk of pre-conditioning, and also why they were eventually done away with. Sometomes "Old School" is better. Fuses still work as intended. Problem is, some people don't put the right fuse back.
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  24. #24

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    Gimpod told me mills 0.22.
    Of course you could be a Nutty Professor and get a toggle switch
    to switch the Poly switch in or out,
    sort of a Safe Mode so when you have a party or
    leave the kids Home Alone.

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