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  1. #31

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    Quote Originally Posted by PolkieMan View Post
    Oh don't thank me it's people like you that have really inspired me on this hobby.
    Especially the real wood veneer that looks so much better.
    I've been veneering on and off since I was 15 or 16. It's not as difficult as you would think.
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/show...ished...Almost
    Center: Custom http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/show...hannel-Project
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/show...rround-Project
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, H-Nuts, BH5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-350, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer


    www.dhsspeakerservice.com

  2. #32

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    Quote Originally Posted by westmassguy View Post
    Thanks NJPOLKER. I'm 10 minutes from Six Flags New England
    Where the hell is that?

    Yeah I know I can/should look it up.

  3. #33

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    Quote Originally Posted by NJPOLKER View Post
    Where the hell is that?

    Yeah I know I can/should look it up.
    Over the river and through the woods from Springfield
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/show...ished...Almost
    Center: Custom http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/show...hannel-Project
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/show...rround-Project
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, H-Nuts, BH5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-350, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer


    www.dhsspeakerservice.com

  4. #34

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    Nice job!

    Quote Originally Posted by westmassguy View Post
    I've been veneering on and off since I was 15 or 16. It's not as difficult as you would think.
    I agree, beveled edges may be difficult for a newb, otherwise it's not all that bad at all.
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche

  5. #35

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    Quote Originally Posted by Face View Post
    Nice job!

    I agree, beveled edges may be difficult for a newb, otherwise it's not all that bad at all.
    Thanks Face. Lon-guy-land? Used to live in Wantaugh :)
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/show...ished...Almost
    Center: Custom http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/show...hannel-Project
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/show...rround-Project
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, H-Nuts, BH5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-350, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer


    www.dhsspeakerservice.com

  6. #36

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    That's funny, I used to live there too.
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche

  7. #37

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    Quote Originally Posted by Face View Post
    That's funny, I used to live there too.
    Small world
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/show...ished...Almost
    Center: Custom http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/show...hannel-Project
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/show...rround-Project
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, H-Nuts, BH5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-350, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer


    www.dhsspeakerservice.com

  8. #38

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    Quote Originally Posted by westmassguy View Post
    This project was a lot of work, but a lot of fun as well. In addition to the Crossover rebuild and modification, the cabinet was re-worked as well. Clarity ESAs were chosen for the Hi-Pass, Mills Resistors, Dayton 5% for the Lo-Pass, and Jantzen Inductors for the "TL" modification. I like using the Daytons for the Lo-Pass shunts for several reasons. Their quality is consistant, and they're relatively small compared to the Clarity PX or SA caps some others may prefer, and in my opinion, their sound is neutral when used in the shunt position. Changes required for the "TL" Mod included changing the Resistor in series with the Tweeter, and changing the Inductor located in the shunt. The resistor wasn't a problem, however the Inductor was a bit problematic. Jantzen had the exact value I needed, 0.27mh, but the DCR was slightly less than required. To compensate, I raised the value of the 2.7 ohm Resistor in series with the Inductor, to 3.0 ohms. This kept the overal resistance value of the shunt in line with the revised schematic, and would maintain the desired voicing of the new Tweeter. In addition to the other modifications, the Polyswitch was removed, and replaced with a 0.5 ohm resistor. All Resistors were relocated to the underside of the circuit board, to allow more room. A new supplimental riser board was fabricated and installed for the Clarity ESAs. New Nylon Stand-Offs were installed, and New Cardas Binding posts were added to complete the Crossover upgrade.

    Attachment 85462Attachment 85463Attachment 85464Attachment 85465Attachment 85466Attachment 85467

    Westmassguy,

    Really nice work on the mod. I was contemplating tackling the same. I see that you used Clarity ESAs rated at 630V. I don't know if the 250V ESAs were available at the time you did your mod, but they are available now, and they are cheaper. I checked out the crossover in my monitor 10Bs, and the highest rated cap was the 250V 12 microF Mylar. So,

    1. Do you believe that the 250V version would be adequate (I.e. not blow up)?
    2. Would it sound similar to the 630V version?
    3. What advantage would the 630V have over the 250V version (I don' usually listen to really loud music)?

    Thanks for any forthcoming clues!

  9. #39

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ibjammin View Post
    Westmassguy,

    Really nice work on the mod. I was contemplating tackling the same. I see that you used Clarity ESAs rated at 630V. I don't know if the 250V ESAs were available at the time you did your mod, but they are available now, and they are cheaper. I checked out the crossover in my monitor 10Bs, and the highest rated cap was the 250V 12 microF Mylar. So,

    1. Do you believe that the 250V version would be adequate (I.e. not blow up)?
    2. Would it sound similar to the 630V version?
    3. What advantage would the 630V have over the 250V version (I don' usually listen to really loud music)?

    Thanks for any forthcoming clues!
    Thanks. Madisound didn't have any ESA 250 v stock to speak of when that project was done. They are selling off the remainder of their 630 volt inventory now, as well as the entire Clarity SA line.
    The 250 volt will be more than enough, and I'd venture a guess that most of the old caps in there now are 100 volt.
    Sonically, I can't imagine any real difference between the two.
    If you're doing the TL Mod, pay close attention to the Hi-Pass Shunt Inductor, The only available inductor was the Jantzen, which was one gauge thicker, so the resistor that follows was increased to 3.0 ohms to compensate.
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/show...ished...Almost
    Center: Custom http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/show...hannel-Project
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/show...rround-Project
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, H-Nuts, BH5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-350, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer


    www.dhsspeakerservice.com

  10. #40

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    Quote Originally Posted by westmassguy View Post
    Thanks. Madisound didn't have any ESA 250 v stock to speak of when that project was done. They are selling off the remainder of their 630 volt inventory now, as well as the entire Clarity SA line.
    The 250 volt will be more than enough, and I'd venture a guess that most of the old caps in there now are 100 volt.
    Sonically, I can't imagine any real difference between the two.
    If you're doing the TL Mod, pay close attention to the Hi-Pass Shunt Inductor, The only available inductor was the Jantzen, which was one gauge thicker, so the resistor that follows was increased to 3.0 ohms to compensate.
    I did notice that and thanks for reminding me. I have another question (for now!):

    In one of these threads, a guy had pulled his polyswitches and measured their resistances in the 1.3 to 1.7 ohm range. You and others have settled on replacing the PS with a 0.5 ohm resistor. Just wondering how that value was settled on?

  11. #41

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ibjammin View Post
    I did notice that and thanks for reminding me. I have another question (for now!):

    In one of these threads, a guy had pulled his polyswitches and measured their resistances in the 1.3 to 1.7 ohm range. You and others have settled on replacing the PS with a 0.5 ohm resistor. Just wondering how that value was settled on?
    Experience and simple mathematics. If you go through the vintage schematics for the Monitors, RTAs, even some SDAs, you'll note whenever a previously fused Hi-Pass section was changed to the Polyswitch, the resistor directly downstream was reduced by .5 ohms most of the time, or .3 ohms in a very few instances.
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/show...ished...Almost
    Center: Custom http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/show...hannel-Project
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/show...rround-Project
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, H-Nuts, BH5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-350, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer


    www.dhsspeakerservice.com

  12. #42

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    Quote Originally Posted by westmassguy View Post
    Experience and simple mathematics. If you go through the vintage schematics for the Monitors, RTAs, even some SDAs, you'll note whenever a previously fused Hi-Pass section was changed to the Polyswitch, the resistor directly downstream was reduced by .5 ohms most of the time, or .3 ohms in a very few instances.

    Darn good detective work.

    I just checked madisound - looks like they now only have the 12 uF ESAs in 250V series now...

  13. #43

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    As I said, they're selling off whatever inventory they have left of the ESA 630s, and the SAs
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/show...ished...Almost
    Center: Custom http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/show...hannel-Project
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/show...rround-Project
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, H-Nuts, BH5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-350, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer


    www.dhsspeakerservice.com

  14. #44

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    I saw your note about the RDO-198 inventory - bummer. Still getting my ducks in a row, tho. The M10-SL3000mod schematic has a 2.0 ohm resistor that is slashed out and handwritten in as 2.7 ohm. Can you confirm that this resistor value should be 2.7 ohm?

    If it is 2.7, Parts Express has a Dayton that would work. Are Daytons good enough - most people seem to like Mills?

    Thank you again.
    Last edited by Ibjammin; 08-15-2013 at 01:32 PM.

  15. #45

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ibjammin View Post
    I saw your note about the RDO-198 inventory - bummer. Still getting my ducks in a row, tho. The M10-SL3000mod schematic has a 2.0 ohm resistor that is slashed out and handwritten in as 2.7 ohm. Can you confirm that this resistor value should be 2.7 ohm?

    If it is 2.7, Parts Express has a Dayton that would work. Are Daytons good enough - most people seem to like Mills?

    Thank you again.
    If you're going to do it, do it right, Mills or Mundorf Mox. The P.E. Sand Cast resistors are no better than the ones in there now.
    You will need the following resistors: 0.5 ohm to replace the dodgy polyswitch, 2.7 ohm to replace the 2.0 ohm, and a 3.0 ohm to replace the 2.7 ohm in the shunt, which is required to maintain the overall resistance of the shunt after you replace the .4 mh inductor with the .27 mh inductor.
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/show...ished...Almost
    Center: Custom http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/show...hannel-Project
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/show...rround-Project
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, H-Nuts, BH5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-350, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer


    www.dhsspeakerservice.com

  16. #46

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    Do not try and save a dollar here on that sandcast resistor. Mills are cheap and very good.

  17. #47

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    Not sure how I missed this one....excellent job!
    'Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end."

  18. #48

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    Quote Originally Posted by F1nut View Post
    Not sure how I missed this one....excellent job!
    Thanks F1
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/show...ished...Almost
    Center: Custom http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/show...hannel-Project
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/show...rround-Project
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, H-Nuts, BH5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-350, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer


    www.dhsspeakerservice.com

  19. #49

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    those look nice

  20. #50

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    Quote Originally Posted by philr168 View Post
    those look nice
    Thanks
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/show...ished...Almost
    Center: Custom http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/show...hannel-Project
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/show...rround-Project
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, H-Nuts, BH5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-350, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer


    www.dhsspeakerservice.com

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