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  1. #61

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    Oh I forgot to ask but I know people have replaced the tweeters and upgraded them in the SDA2A, what tweeters would I want to upgrade to and would it be as simple as swapping them out or?
    Receiver: Denon 1912
    Speakers:
    Fronts: Polk Audio Monitor 70s (x2)
    Rears: Polk Audio Monitor 50 (x2)
    Center: Polk Audio Monitor 70
    KLH Sub GFX-550

  2. #62

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    Quote Originally Posted by custopper30 View Post
    Oh I forgot to ask but I know people have replaced the tweeters and upgraded them in the SDA2A, what tweeters would I want to upgrade to and would it be as simple as swapping them out or?
    The drop-in replacement is the RDO-194-1, however, the 2As can be modified to accept the better RDO-198-1 (AKA the TL Mod)
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/show...ished...Almost
    Center: Custom http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/show...hannel-Project
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/show...rround-Project
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, H-Nuts, BH5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-350, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer


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  3. #63

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    Quote Originally Posted by custopper30 View Post
    I have taken that into account. I thought the white look would be really cool but looking at it with the rest of my speakers, it just isn't right to do. Nspindel, where did you find the veener? I really am thinking about doing a black stained wood as I like the black aspect. I wanted to keep the grills black too but then what I am sticking with is the idea of shaping aluminum to the bottom portion of the speaker cabinet where it sits on the ground (the smaller box it sits on). From there, I am going to fabricate my own speaker spikes/legs to mount on the bottom to finish off the speakers.
    I got the veneer from a local woodworking shop, not 10 miles from my house. Should be very easy to find.
    Good music, a good source, and good power can make SDA's sing. Tubes make them dance.

  4. #64

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    Quote Originally Posted by warren View Post
    A RCA cable will work for the interconnect cable. That's what I use, and it works just fine.
    Aside from the pin/blade issue, a typical RCA-terminated interconnect cable has a thin, undersized conductor that will provide excessive resistance when used to carry the SDA signal. An RCA-terminated interconnect cable is intended to be connected into a load of perhaps 20,000 ohms. There's essentially no current flow. Compare that to a load presented by a speaker--almost universally under 16 ohms. The current draw is immensely more severe.

    If you think your "RCA cable" is working "just fine", you have a wonderful surprise in store when you get a proper SDA interconnect in place--something with at least a 16-gauge conductor inside.

  5. #65

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    If he will sell both for $60 free shipping be happy.

    Quote Originally Posted by custopper30 View Post
    Just did, what price would you say go for them if I was able to buy two of them?

  6. #66

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    Quote Originally Posted by PolkieMan View Post
    If he will sell both for $60 free shipping be happy.
    Thanks, I got the skinny about the RCA cable, from Ken while he was at Polk. If like to buy one, but how?

  7. #67

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    you might be able to make one still using an RCA connector but using 16g stranded wire. you would have to see if the RCA connector could take that thick of wire.

    other people have disconnected the original socket and replaced it with a binding post so a banana plug can be used.

  8. #68

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    He sold two out of the three for 35 a piece =( still on the look for those.
    Receiver: Denon 1912
    Speakers:
    Fronts: Polk Audio Monitor 70s (x2)
    Rears: Polk Audio Monitor 50 (x2)
    Center: Polk Audio Monitor 70
    KLH Sub GFX-550

  9. #69

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    http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=091-120
    http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2



    Quote Originally Posted by warren View Post
    Thanks, I got the skinny about the RCA cable, from Ken while he was at Polk. If like to buy one, but how?

  10. #70

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    thank you so much for getting me to think, I'm 74 & 3/4...

  11. #71

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    Quote Originally Posted by warren View Post
    thank you so much for getting me to think, I'm 74 & 3/4...
    1939?
    AVR-Onkyo TX-NR808
    Front amp-Adcom GFA 555>Polk Audio LSi9's(Vr3 Castle Mods)
    Center amp-Adcom GFA 5400>Polk Audio LSi9 bi-wired(Vr3 Castle Mod)
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    Sub-Velodyne SPL-1000R

  12. #72

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    Man I feel young... 1993
    Receiver: Denon 1912
    Speakers:
    Fronts: Polk Audio Monitor 70s (x2)
    Rears: Polk Audio Monitor 50 (x2)
    Center: Polk Audio Monitor 70
    KLH Sub GFX-550

  13. #73

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    Nov.26, 1938 AD

  14. #74

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    Quote Originally Posted by warren View Post
    Nov.26, 1938 AD
    I think this needs an off topic thread.
    AVR-Onkyo TX-NR808
    Front amp-Adcom GFA 555>Polk Audio LSi9's(Vr3 Castle Mods)
    Center amp-Adcom GFA 5400>Polk Audio LSi9 bi-wired(Vr3 Castle Mod)
    Surrounds-Polk Audio F/X500's<Onkyo TX-NR808
    Sub-Velodyne SPL-1000R

  15. #75

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    Quote Originally Posted by custopper30 View Post
    Man I feel young... 1993
    Sorry to jack your thread. http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/show...-were-you-born

    You are doing great. I thought you would be older.
    AVR-Onkyo TX-NR808
    Front amp-Adcom GFA 555>Polk Audio LSi9's(Vr3 Castle Mods)
    Center amp-Adcom GFA 5400>Polk Audio LSi9 bi-wired(Vr3 Castle Mod)
    Surrounds-Polk Audio F/X500's<Onkyo TX-NR808
    Sub-Velodyne SPL-1000R

  16. #76

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    Your welcome warren
    I'm just looking at things on the cheap end he said college was eating up his money.
    Besides I am cheap
    But I still thought someone said Blade/Blade?

    Quote Originally Posted by warren View Post
    thank you so much for getting me to think, I'm 74 & 3/4...

  17. #77

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    anyways.. So would everyone say use bondo to repair the sides/groves? Is that the best thing to use?
    Receiver: Denon 1912
    Speakers:
    Fronts: Polk Audio Monitor 70s (x2)
    Rears: Polk Audio Monitor 50 (x2)
    Center: Polk Audio Monitor 70
    KLH Sub GFX-550

  18. #78

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    Quote Originally Posted by custopper30 View Post
    anyways.. So would everyone say use bondo to repair the sides/groves? Is that the best thing to use?
    Yup.

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    Good music, a good source, and good power can make SDA's sing. Tubes make them dance.

  19. #79

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    Of course, you need to remove the vinyl laminate first. Get a heat gun and a paint scraper, work carefully so you don't damage the cabinets.
    Good music, a good source, and good power can make SDA's sing. Tubes make them dance.

  20. #80

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    why remove the vinyl? I was just going to rough it up and build over it and then sand it down till it is back to perfection. Then I was going to lay wood veneer over it? Wouldn't that be better?
    Receiver: Denon 1912
    Speakers:
    Fronts: Polk Audio Monitor 70s (x2)
    Rears: Polk Audio Monitor 50 (x2)
    Center: Polk Audio Monitor 70
    KLH Sub GFX-550

  21. #81

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    Quote Originally Posted by custopper30 View Post
    why remove the vinyl? I was just going to rough it up and build over it and then sand it down till it is back to perfection. Then I was going to lay wood veneer over it? Wouldn't that be better?
    When you build a house you need a solid foundation right? Well when you build on top of the old vinyl you won't have a solid foundation. The old needs to be removed you'll thank us later.

  22. #82

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    Removing the vinyl is very easy with a heat gun. Following on pitdogg2's comments, when you have paint peeling off a house, you don't just paint over it, you power wash, sand, scrape, etc. to get as much off as possible. This is no different. Get that vinyl 100% off before you do any refinishing work.
    Good music, a good source, and good power can make SDA's sing. Tubes make them dance.

  23. #83

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    If you are going to use real wood veneer, what do you about the small ledge that protrudes out below the grills? It has rounded ends that look like they would be hard to get wood veneer to conform to them.
    SDA 2BTL Sonicaps Mills resistors RDO-198s New gaskets H-nuts Erse inductors Crossover upgrades by westmassguy
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  24. #84

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    Most "normal" wood veneer comes in rolls. No different than that.

    Some exotics cam in flat sheets because they split too easily when bent.
    "Unwad those panties and have a good time man. We're all here to help each other, no matter how it might appear." DSkip
    I may have an addiction... RTA-15TL, SDA 2, LSi25, LSi15, LSi9, LSi7, LSiCx2, LSiFX, LS/FX, RT/FX, DSW MP2000...and that's just the Polks...

  25. #85

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    Quote Originally Posted by custopper30 View Post
    why remove the vinyl? I was just going to rough it up and build over it and then sand it down till it is back to perfection. Then I was going to lay wood veneer over it? Wouldn't that be better?
    As the others have indicated, that simply will not work, period.
    'Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end."

  26. #86

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    Quote Originally Posted by TennMan View Post
    If you are going to use real wood veneer, what do you about the small ledge that protrudes out below the grills? It has rounded ends that look like they would be hard to get wood veneer to conform to them.
    Can't say for certain because I don't have these speakers, but if they're anything like my CRS+ project, that bottom trim under the grill is a piece of wood attached with glue/dowels. When my brother-in-law did the woodwork, he fabricated a new trim piece out of solid maple to match the veneer, and rounded it with a router.
    Good music, a good source, and good power can make SDA's sing. Tubes make them dance.

  27. #87

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    I was just going to bondo it all up and make it corner edges instead of the rounded edges. That will look really nice and be easier, I think

    Comments? I will start removing the vinyl tonight possibly.
    Receiver: Denon 1912
    Speakers:
    Fronts: Polk Audio Monitor 70s (x2)
    Rears: Polk Audio Monitor 50 (x2)
    Center: Polk Audio Monitor 70
    KLH Sub GFX-550

  28. #88

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    Mmmm, no. You want those edges round to match the contour of the grills.
    Good music, a good source, and good power can make SDA's sing. Tubes make them dance.

  29. #89

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    Quote Originally Posted by nspindel View Post
    Can't say for certain because I don't have these speakers, but if they're anything like my CRS+ project, that bottom trim under the grill is a piece of wood attached with glue/dowels. When my brother-in-law did the woodwork, he fabricated a new trim piece out of solid maple to match the veneer, and rounded it with a router.
    Thanks for the info. The CRS+ are the ones I was asking about. I have a pair of them. If I keep them I might want to add real wood veneer some day and was wondering about what needed to be done at the bottom of the grills..
    SDA 2BTL Sonicaps Mills resistors RDO-198s New gaskets H-nuts Erse inductors Crossover upgrades by westmassguy
    Adcom GTP-450 preamp
    Adcom GFA-555 amp Upgrades & speaker protection added by OldmanSRS
    Pioneer DV-610AV DVD/CD player
    SDA CRS+ Hidden away in the closet

  30. #90

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    Be very careful removing the original piece, you don't want to split the pressboard cabinets by causing too much movement in the wooden dowels. My brother in law used a biscuit joiner to attach the maple trim pieces.
    Good music, a good source, and good power can make SDA's sing. Tubes make them dance.

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