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  1. #1

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    Default Dynamatted my drivers today, should I do the PRs too?

    I finally got around the Dynamatting the drivers on my RTA 11ts, turned out pretty good.

    Should I do the passive radiators as well? I should have more than enough Dynamat left.

    Also, I did not do the magnets. I read that some people suggest it, and others frown upon it. Any insight on why or why not?

    Thanks,
    Ian


  2. #2

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    Yes, do the PR's. The magnets do not ring, so no need to do them.
    'Political Correctness'.........defined

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  3. #3

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    Quote Originally Posted by ipsullivan View Post
    Also, I did not do the magnets. I read that some people suggest it, and others frown upon it. Any insight on why or why not?


    No need to Dynamat the magnets, as F1 said above. It is, however, a good idea to secure the magnets with some JB Weld, Loctite, or any other good ceramic/metal adhesive while you have the drivers out of the cabinets. This simple task should make the possibility of any of the magnets shifting - pretty much trashing* the driver - much less likely. There are several threads on this, with pics, available.

    * - the driver can often be repaired after a magnet shift, but the process of doing so is, IMO, a delicate, tedious task that's not worth the time/effort required.

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    We had this stuff at work called Plastic Dip and we would coat the handles of our tools with it.
    What you are trying to accomplish here is to remove any ringing or reflection from the metal components in the speaker.
    Has anyone tried another method? Polk had a cheap attempt to cut down on the ringing of the PR it was a thin cardboard ring
    glued on the back, I only found this on my 2.3tls not my 1c and one of them had fallen off or was not put on properly to begin with.

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by PolkieMan View Post
    We had this stuff at work called Plastic Dip and we would coat the handles of our tools with it.
    What you are trying to accomplish here is to remove any ringing or reflection from the metal components in the speaker.
    Has anyone tried another method? Polk had a cheap attempt to cut down on the ringing of the PR it was a thin cardboard ring
    glued on the back, I only found this on my 2.3tls not my 1c and one of them had fallen off or was not put on properly to begin with.
    I had the same thing on the back of one of my 15TL's PRs.

    Plasti-Dip in a heavy enough coat could probably have the same effect but you would have to avoid overspray onto the cones or spider.
    Of course, you could probably brush on the non aerosol version...
    "Unwad those panties and have a good time man. We're all here to help each other, no matter how it might appear." DSkip
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    Interesting. I know Dyna-mat is kinda of a tar based product and you would have a tough time cutting little pieces to get perfect coverage.

    http://www.plastidip.com/home_solutions/Plasti_Dip


    Quote Originally Posted by ZLTFUL View Post
    I had the same thing on the back of one of my 15TL's PRs.

    Plasti-Dip in a heavy enough coat could probably have the same effect but you would have to avoid overspray onto the cones or spider.
    Of course, you could probably brush on the non aerosol version...

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    With the passives having more open metal, I would think they would be more important to do then the drivers..


    Plasti-dip has nothing on Dynamat, and I would never suggest using it on this application.. The time it would take to mask everything off is a deal breaker in its self, let alone you would never get the same thickness as Dynamat, nor the same quality..

    I say bury that idea 6 feet under..
    Last edited by Toolfan66; 06-29-2013 at 08:36 PM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Toolfan66 View Post
    With the passives having more open metal, I would think they would be more important to do then the drivers..


    Plasti-dip has nothing on Dynamat, and I would never suggest using it on this application.. The time it would take to mask everything off is a deal breaker in its self, let alone you would never get the same thickness as Dynamat, nor the same quality..

    I say bury that idea 6 feet under..
    Looks like I will be doing the PRs tomorrow.

    Also, one of the gaskets on one of the mids was a little bent and peeling a bit. Is there somewhere that I can get replacements for all the gaskets?

    I agree, I have used Plasti-dip before(not for speakers) and it definitely does not come anywhere close to what Dynamat can do.

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    Most of the time, plasti-dip is only put on in one or two coats...and I agree, that won't come anywhere near to Dynamat.
    But I am talking putting on enough coats to put it at or above the thickness of Dynamat.
    Go to your toolbox and grab a pair of quality side cutters or linesman's pliers and look at the insulation on the handles. That's the thickness I am referring to. Plasti-dip builds up thickness rapidly with 5+ coats. I have experimented with coats up to 1/4 inch for other things.

    But I digress as the time/materials would easily surpass the ease of Dynmat that can be had for about $25 for enough to do a pair of RTA-15TLs.
    Just a thought for an alternative. I can send anyone who is interested a sample of some of the thicker applications for comparison if so interested.
    "Unwad those panties and have a good time man. We're all here to help each other, no matter how it might appear." DSkip
    I may have an addiction... RTA-15TL, SDA 2, LSi25, LSi15, LSi9, LSi7, LSiCx2, LSiFX, LS/FX, RT/FX, DSW MP2000...and that's just the Polks...

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by ipsullivan View Post
    Looks like I will be doing the PRs tomorrow.

    Also, one of the gaskets on one of the mids was a little bent and peeling a bit. Is there somewhere that I can get replacements for all the gaskets?
    You can re-do all of your gaskets (MWs, PRs, tweeters and binding post cups) and have a ton left over with one roll of Armacell insulation tape. You can get a 30' x 2" roll from Home Depot for about $8. Just cut the tape into 1/2"-wide strips and stick them to the metal of the drivers, etc. Works like a charm, is cheap and easy to do. Just make sure you remove the old gaskets prior to sticking the new ones on.

  11. #11

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    Yea it was just a thought and I was thinking about doing the PR since there is less chance of screwing them up and they would probably need it the most.

    Quote Originally Posted by ZLTFUL View Post
    Most of the time, plasti-dip is only put on in one or two coats...and I agree, that won't come anywhere near to Dynamat.
    But I am talking putting on enough coats to put it at or above the thickness of Dynamat.
    Go to your toolbox and grab a pair of quality side cutters or linesman's pliers and look at the insulation on the handles. That's the thickness I am referring to. Plasti-dip builds up thickness rapidly with 5+ coats. I have experimented with coats up to 1/4 inch for other things.

    But I digress as the time/materials would easily surpass the ease of Dynmat that can be had for about $25 for enough to do a pair of RTA-15TLs.
    Just a thought for an alternative. I can send anyone who is interested a sample of some of the thicker applications for comparison if so interested.

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    Dynamat Extreme was designed as a dampening material. Plasti-dip was designed to coat things such as tool handles. Two very different products with two very different specific purposes.

    you would have a tough time cutting little pieces to get perfect coverage.
    Dynamat Extreme cuts easily with scissors or a razor knife and perfect coverage is not needed for it to be 100% effective. All that is needed are strips on the spokes and in the case of a PR, apply some to the round end bell, that's it.
    'Political Correctness'.........defined

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    I'm a little more anal retentive than that. I always do full coverage on the PRs and Drivers.

    Click image for larger version

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    This is how you dynamat PR's:




    Once you do that and tap the basket, you become a believer in this mod. It applies across the board with the MW's as well.

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    Complete overkill.
    'Political Correctness'.........defined

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  16. #16
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    You remind me of me Andre, "Everything matters"!

    Outstanding work/attention to detail!
    Last edited by pepster; 06-30-2013 at 08:35 PM.

  17. #17

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    Is Armacell relatively flexible once it is in a 1/2" strip? Will I be able to do each driver/PR with one strip?

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    Very easy to work with, compresses very easily. Before you cut one full length strip, save enough full width strips to do the tweeters also.
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    Quote Originally Posted by F1nut View Post
    Complete overkill.
    I agree. As nice of a job as that job is, one does not need that much to prevent ringing. Think about putting your finger on a ringing bell. Doesnt take much to silence it.
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    Quote Originally Posted by F1nut View Post
    Complete overkill.

    Yep!!
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    Quote Originally Posted by F1nut View Post
    Complete overkill.
    Quote Originally Posted by deronb1 View Post
    I agree. As nice of a job as that job is, one does not need that much to prevent ringing. Think about putting your finger on a ringing bell. Doesnt take much to silence it.
    Quote Originally Posted by Toolfan66 View Post
    Yep!!
    Gee thanks guys. Regardless, it really helped the ringing which I was satisfied with.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by F1nut View Post
    Yes, do the PR's.
    Agreed. I found the PRs ring more because they don't have any deadening and mass provided by the magnet structure.

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    Will Armacell work in this application?

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    Quote Originally Posted by xsmi View Post
    Will Armacell work in this application?
    In place of Dynamat Extreme? Not even close.
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    Quote Originally Posted by F1nut View Post
    In place of Dynamat Extreme? Not even close.
    What I figured.

  26. #26

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    Just when I thought I was "done" messing with my theater, I come across this crap :)...... Looks like its time to buy some Dynamat.

    Do I really have to put it on the tweeter?? I have rt3000p's. rich
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  27. #27

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    Quote Originally Posted by pietsch288 View Post
    Do I really have to put it on the tweeter??
    There's no need to put it on any tweeter.
    'Political Correctness'.........defined

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  28. #28

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    I assume I should "mat" the 6"ers in the satalite speakers as well as the 8"ers in the sub? rich
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    converted 15x23x10 attached garage to dedicated theater

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  29. #29

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    Quote Originally Posted by pietsch288 View Post
    I assume I should "mat" the 6"ers in the satalite speakers as well as the 8"ers in the sub? rich
    Any woofer or passive radiator with a light weight, stamped steel basket frame will theoretically benefit from the Dynamat
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  30. #30

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    As long as I have the speakers out anyway......is there any other speaker or box mod must do's??
    onkyo 5008, epson 8350, 148" DIY screen
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