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  1. #31

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    Sometimes budget dictates "if you're going to do it, do it as well as possible".
    At the time I redid my 11T's, the Jantzens were a gift and I had spent the rest of what I could afford on soldering equipment and all of the other components. It was the best I could do, and all I want the OP to know is, even with cheaping out on the low caps, the difference in sound is still remarkable. It will still be a different set of speakers all together than what you hear now. But, I still plan on getting a better, and proper, cap in there.
    That being said, F1nut's point is rock solid in another fashion. I have a set of Infinity RSb's I scrimped on to begin with, and they didn't sound as good as I know they can. Now, I am re-spending more money re-purchasing crossover parts, new boards, etc. And it is taking me longer to put the money together.
    Sometimes it's a fine balance between available cash, the best thing possible, and wanting things done now. At least for me it is.
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  2. #32

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    Thanks for the input guys, I will think it over and try to make a decision so I can order parts on Monday.

    F1,

    What kind of differences would I be looking at if I went with Daytons on the 34uF? Instead of the Sonicaps

  3. #33

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    A lot of folks don't think shunt caps matter, I beg to differ and Sonicap just happens to be an excellent shunt cap. The difference will be mo' better sound.

    I'm not one of those that thinks a 33uF will do when the specs call for a 34uF. Yes, a 33uF might be within the 10% +/- tolerance of the crappy original, but the 34uF was spec'd for a damn good reason.
    'Political Correctness'.........defined

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  4. #34

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    just to be clear, nobody here said shunt caps don't matter.
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  5. #35

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    Quote Originally Posted by ipsullivan View Post
    I think I am going to go the cheaper route on the 34uF caps. At $50 per for Sonicaps Gen 1s I am having trouble justifying another $100 into these speakers. Any suggestions for something that is more affordable than $50 a piece? Can I get away with using a 33uF?
    I guess it's worth "chiming in" that I went with the (expensive) SoniCaps (custom 34 uF) and am glad I did. If you listen to your stereo/theater/whatever as much as many of us do, a few extra bucks now will yield years of extra enjoyment later.
    Yamaha DSP-A1 Integrated Amp
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  6. #36

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    This subject has been debated over and over and over, ad nauseam. Some of us can hear a difference, while some cannot. I personally cannot, and have done side by side listening tests with Sonicaps in the Hi and Lo-Pass, Sonicaps in the Hi-Pass, Daytons, and Solens in the Lo-Pass. I've done it with Monitor 10s, and CRS+s. I heard no difference what-so-ever. If you can hear the difference, and can afford the Premium Caps in the Lo-Pass, by all means go that route. I recently finished the final upgrades on my 2ATLs, and if I'd used Sonicaps in place of the huge 260uf caps, they would have cost me more than the speakers, and all the other upgrades, including the RDO-198s, combined. I chose the Daytons, and have never regretted it.
    If you can hear a difference, and can afford it, knock yourself out. If you can't, or are limited to a certain budget, use the Daytons, Bennics (who make Daytons), Jantzen, Solen etc. They're all well made, and vastly superior to the original NP Electrolytics.
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
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    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, H-Nuts, BH5
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  7. #37

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    Well, I have put some thought into it and decide that I changed my mind again and I am going to go with the 34uF custom Sonicap.

    I usually go by the "buy once, cry once" rule, I will bite the bullet on the extra $100. It will be nice to not have to wonder if I am missing out on anything.

  8. #38

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    Quote Originally Posted by ipsullivan View Post
    Well, I have put some thought into it and decide that I changed my mind again and I am going to go with the 34uF custom Sonicap.

    I usually go by the "buy once, cry once" rule, I will bite the bullet on the extra $100. It will be nice to not have to wonder if I am missing out on anything.
    Since you only have to spring for 1 per speaker, I think you made a good choice; even more important is using the actual value called for in the schematic (34 uF), as was pointed out previously. Good luck!
    Yamaha DSP-A1 Integrated Amp
    (4) Polk Monitor 10B's w/SoniCaps, Mills, and RDO-194 tweets (R/L F/R)
    (2) Polk Monitor 4's w/peerless tweets (dual centers)
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  9. #39

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    Got the caps and resistors today. Holy crap, the 34uF's are big!

    Gotta tear down the speakers tomorrow, my spikes should be here by then. And once my rings from Larry show up it will all go back together.

    I figured these deserved the good camera.


  10. #40

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    Quick question, no polarity on these caps right?

  11. #41

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    Quote Originally Posted by ipsullivan View Post
    Quick question, no polarity on these caps right?
    Nope
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/show...ished...Almost
    Center: Custom http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/show...hannel-Project
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/show...rround-Project
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, H-Nuts, BH5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-350, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer


    www.dhsspeakerservice.com

  12. #42

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    Got the crossovers done today, thanks to westmassguy for the riser board components, worked great. Getting itchy to put them back together but would rather wait for the rings.

    Question: My driver and PR cones are pretty dusty, what is the best way to clean off the years of dust? Seems like the coating on them is a bit tacky.

    Pics of the XOs:


    In the cabinet
    Last edited by ipsullivan; 07-13-2013 at 04:39 PM.

  13. #43

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    Quote Originally Posted by ipsullivan View Post
    Question: My driver and PR cones are pretty dusty, what is the best way to clean off the years of dust? Seems like the coating on them is a bit tacky.
    Use Windex sprayed on a soft cotton cloth. Wipe in a circular motion. Do not try to remove the coating on the mid-drivers, it's suppose to be tacky.
    'Political Correctness'.........defined

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  14. #44

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    I've found lint free, Microfiber Cloths work much better than cotton cloths. Use real Windex, not Glass Plus or some other concoction
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/show...ished...Almost
    Center: Custom http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/show...hannel-Project
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/show...rround-Project
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, H-Nuts, BH5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-350, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer


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  15. #45

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    and in a pinch, coffee filters are lint free and work fairly well for wiping away dust. i started using them whin cleaning TIM from cpu's, and they have worked pretty well for doing drivers for me.
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  16. #46

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    Quote Originally Posted by ipsullivan View Post
    Got the crossovers done today, thanks to westmassguy for the riser board components, worked great. Getting itchy to put them back together but would rather wait for the rings.

    Question: My driver and PR cones are pretty dusty, what is the best way to clean off the years of dust? Seems like the coating on them is a bit tacky.

    Pics of the XOs:


    In the cabinet
    Looking good!
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/show...ished...Almost
    Center: Custom http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/show...hannel-Project
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/show...rround-Project
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, H-Nuts, BH5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-350, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer


    www.dhsspeakerservice.com

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