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  1. #1

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    Default Speaker stand DIY for Lsi9

    IMG4368 - Since I finished the Vr3 mod on my Lsi9, I'd been wanting to make a stand for it.
    I referenced many DIY examples that I can find online and decided on this one which I am showing here.

    Materials for two stands:
    I don't have all the figures but it doesn't cost much at all to make your own.
    1" x 2, 2" x 4 and 3" x 2 PVC pipes, 28" long each for a final stand height of 30" without spikes
    3/4" MDF board - top 7" x 12", bottom 12" x 12" (do NOT use MDF, more on this below)
    Speaker spikes of your choice (optional)
    1/4"-20 nylon lock nuts x 4
    1/4" flat washers x 4
    1/4"-20 threaded rod 36" long x 2
    2" diameter round wood rod for the legs (optional)
    Gorilla glue

    IMG4379 - I used a 10" table saw to cut the pipes. It can't cut the 3" pipe in one pass so I rotate the pipe and
    cut in multiple passes then file down the edge until it's flat.

    IMG4382 - make circle cutout to glue the pipes to the board. I used a simple circular cutter which costs less than $10. I haven't tried it on hardwood but no problem on MDF.

    IMG4385 - round the edge with a router but it's really not necessary

    IMG4388 - the threaded rod with locking nuts will hold the top and bottom boards between the pipes tightly.
    You can see that I used wood filler to smooth out all the gaps where the legs join to the board.
    I found it important to glue the pipes in addition to the tightening rod.

    I mentioned that DO NOT USE MDF. I didn't take pictures but the 3" circle where the rod bolted to split from
    the rest of the board into a round 3/8" thick disc (from the washer on the bottom to the top surface).
    It happened when I tried to lift the stand by grabbing the board on the top. This was after I filled in all the
    sand (a lot heavier) but before I glued down the pipes. Should've used oak or plywood.
    So I glued the disc back and added a 1/4" layer of plywood to the bottom.
    Now I just have to lift the stand from the bottom.

    IMG4403 - fill all the pipes with play sand all the way. It's important to fill the pipes with sand for three reasons.
    1) avoid resonance in the pipes, and for this reason you want to fill the pipes all the way,
    2) adds weight to couple the speaker to the floor,
    3) stabilize it.
    There are people who use lead shots instead of sand. I imagine it would weigh too much if you fill lead shots
    all the way. It'd cost a lot more than sand. If you use sand, make sure the sand is fully dry. People bake the
    sand in an oven. I used free solar power (Texas sun) during hot sunny day for 3 days and I make sure that I
    stir it several times during each day to dry the bottom portion.

    You can see that I glued a 1" pipe inside the 3" pipe to block out the sand. This 1" pipe is where the speaker wires would go (and hide). Note the opening for the wire. It's cut using a dremel with a cutting bit.

    IMG4444 - many people use bluetack/bluestik between the speaker and the stand. I use 1/8" thickness closed cell EVA foam that I have left from a previous project. It's good for non-skid (kinda like a mouse pad) and it
    couples the whole speaker to the stand instead of just four corners.

    IMG4436 - Because I have carpet floor, I chose to spike the stands.
    I hear positive results from spiking speakers through the carpet down to the hard surface underneath.



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    • Online - Focal Solo6 BE, Polk PSW10, Focusrite Saffire Pro 24 DSP, Lenovo x220t
    • Music/HT - Lsi25, Lsi9 (Vr3), Lsi7, LsiC, Pioneer SC-68 & BDP-62FD, PS3

  2. #2

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    Nice job,they came out great.Gotta love those Vr3 mods.
    Dan

  3. #3

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    Default

    That looks really nice, cool design!!

  4. #4

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    Great job and design.

  5. #5

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    Default

    Great design, especially the way you made the channel for speaker wire.
    "Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills, polyswitches removed, Lg Solen inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR binding posts, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheets (3" strips) installed on back wall behind MW's & Tweeters, interior of cabinets sealed, AI-1 interface with 1000VA transformer

  6. #6

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    Nice work indeed!!!
    JC approves....he told me so. (F-1 nut)

  7. #7

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    Your design is pretty close to the stands made by Skylan, but they use 3.5" square PVC tubing, the bottom plate is 1" thick MDF and no glue is needed as the threaded rods tighten everything up nicely. I've got 25 lbs. of lead shot in each of my Skylan stands, no problem with the bases.
    'Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end."

  8. #8

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    Sweet!
    Main
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  9. #9

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    3.5" tube probably made the difference (36% more area to hold the rod). I am thinking now that it also can be possible that I might have overtighten the rod such that it have separated the circular area from the base even before I lifted the stand.
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  10. #10

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    Those look really nice, great design. There are always a few bugs to work out in a new product. Great job!
    Home Theater
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  11. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by sk88 View Post
    3.5" tube probably made the difference (36% more area to hold the rod)....
    Just saw Skylan stands are using square tubes in either 2-posts or 4-posts configuration, so my calculation above is incorrect. I think it probably has a rod in each posts so it doesn't need glue.
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  12. #12

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    I think it probably has a rod in each posts so it doesn't need glue.
    Correct.

    Also the groove for the tubes aren't as deep as yours. That and the thicker MDF addresses the issue you had.

    I didn't mention it before, but your stands do look nice. What did you paint them with?
    'Political Correctness'.........defined

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  13. #13

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    F1nut, you hit the nail on the head. You are exactly right that I cut my groove too deep so that it went over the depth of the hole that I drilled on the other side. See pictures. The top drawing has deeper groove vs. the bottom. The bottom would be much more difficult to break apart. I never thought of that until now. A small oversight can break a project. You are an expert!

    Regarding the paint, I was going to use Krylon Fusion For Plastic but the local Homedepot doesn't carry it. So I ended up using Rust-Oleum and auto clear coat as pictured. You see any issue with the paint?
    Click image for larger version

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    • Online - Focal Solo6 BE, Polk PSW10, Focusrite Saffire Pro 24 DSP, Lenovo x220t
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  14. #14

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    Awesome stands, love the design! Excellent job on the crossover as well! :)
    www.Vr3Mods.com ///// www.Version3Audio.com

    "No, that's silly talk. Dude, you can't possibly be this audio dumb so quit the act." - Doro

  15. #15
    pepster
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    I think they look "Killer"!
    Very nice and look like a "Professional" job!



    Bravo!
    Last edited by pepster; 07-05-2013 at 09:59 PM.

  16. #16

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    You see any issue with the paint?
    No, just wondered what you used.
    'Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end."

  17. #17

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    Thanks everyone.

    Love Vr3.
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  18. #18

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    Well done!

    Nice design and great execution!

    Thank you for sharing this project, complete with a bill of materials and instructions.
    Family Room
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  19. #19

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    Default

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ID:	87247Nice work! I like them, but it depends on your taste and home....here's my crutchfield specials that still do the trick for me...Click image for larger version

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  20. #20

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    Great job sk88!!!

  21. #21

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kevinvb11 View Post
    ....here's my crutchfield specials that still do the trick for me...
    It does look nice, especially the color match.
    Nice sword!
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  22. #22

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    Quote Originally Posted by Conradicles View Post
    Great job sk88!!!
    Thanks!
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  23. #23

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    Nice Work...I love the DIY part.
    FAMILY ROOM
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  24. #24

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    I didn't weigh the stand before I moved it and put the speaker on it. Now I finished my 2nd stand yesterday and I remembered to take its weight - it's exactly 30.0 lb - in case people want to know.
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  25. #25

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    Nice work and thanks for the post.
    I am building one for my lsi9 and now I am waiting for my circular cutter ship from Amazon for <$10. I will use 12"x12"x1" oak that from my last hardwood staircase DIY for base. will use single 4" PVC and 3/8" tread rod. My total expense for the materials is about $35(PVC: $15, Steal threaded rod: $3x2, cutter: $10, nuts and washer). no need to buy base, sand, paint...

    Again, thanks for the post.

    will report back after done...
    MAIN:
    Front- Lsi 15,
    Center- lsiC,
    Surrounds- lsi F/X,
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    Receiver- Onkyo 809,
    Emotiva XPA-5.
    --------------------------------------------------------

  26. #26

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    Please post some pictures when done.
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