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  1. #1

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    Question Anyone using Sansui G-8000 with vintage Polk speakers?

    I got a Sansui G-8000 monster (yep it's a monster weighing 55 lbs) with a functional issue.
    Left channel has issue every few months so that needs fixing.

    I have several monitors as well as two pairs of SDA's.
    Any experience on how they match up?

    Here is a pic. It's so pruddy.

    Name:  Sansui G-8000 (6)-small-nr.jpg
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    Edit: Right click and view image to see larger version.
    Last edited by Mystery; 07-09-2013 at 01:50 PM.

    Boston A400,VR950, DefTech BP10,, Klipsch Forte,KSP-400,KSF-C5,RF3,RC3.
    JBL L20t,L80t3, EPI 20+,T/E 280, Polk 4,4.5,5A,7C, KEF Coda III, Yamaha NS-690, Genesis 3+.
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  2. #2

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    Beautiful receiver. Id love to hear it on Monitor 10's or sda2's
    Last edited by boston1450; 07-09-2013 at 01:51 PM.
    Randy
    HT-SDA1c Yamaha-RXV1-Denon-POA2200-HK DVD25-Cs400i-Monitor4's-Premier Acoustic150
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    Marantz-2252b-5025b-6300-YaQinCd1-TeacA4010s-Monitor7
    Yamaha-CR2040-Advent2-TeacA4010s-Monitor7

    Yamaha-CA810-CT810----- No Speakers Yet
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  3. #3

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    Left channel has issue every few months so that needs fixing

    what kind of issue is it having?

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    Quote Originally Posted by canadianicon25 View Post
    Left channel has issue every few months so that needs fixing

    what kind of issue is it having?
    PO said left channel cuts out after few months of servicing.
    The technician who serviced it said there are few metal parts that need replacement (not sure what, may be relay or something) but he couldn't find parts so he just cleaned/polished them.
    And it works for few months and then again left channel starts to cut out slowly and no output.
    Again goes back to servicing and works fine for few months.
    It's been like that for last year or so and I worked on a deal with him trading my working Sansui 881 plus some speakers.

    I hope it's just deOxit that's all needed but may not be that simple since a tech couldn't fix it.

    Boston A400,VR950, DefTech BP10,, Klipsch Forte,KSP-400,KSF-C5,RF3,RC3.
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    Nice wood case too.

  6. #6

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    These g' Sansui's are quite the receiver. They seem to be tough as heck & sound quite well. Ive never heard one like that with that much power but that unit will power a pair of speakers with ease. They dont seem to heat up (the ones ive had) Thats a highly sought one there. Keep us updated on what that bad boy can do. Hope it is a easy repair. Its worth fixing for sure. Enjoy
    Randy
    HT-SDA1c Yamaha-RXV1-Denon-POA2200-HK DVD25-Cs400i-Monitor4's-Premier Acoustic150
    2ch-SDA2b-ADCOM GFA-555-565-600-555-YaQinCd2-Pioneer PL-630-AKAI GX210d
    Pioneer-SA9800-SG9800-CTF650-TXD1000-RT-909-Monitor11-Peerless
    Marantz-2252b-5025b-6300-YaQinCd1-TeacA4010s-Monitor7
    Yamaha-CR2040-Advent2-TeacA4010s-Monitor7

    Yamaha-CA810-CT810----- No Speakers Yet
    Marantz SR1000-Pioneer PM120 workbench set up

  7. #7

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    If you ever sell it, please let me know!!!
    No Way But The Hard Way, So Get Used To It!!!

  8. #8

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    PO said left channel cuts out after few months of servicing.
    The technician who serviced it said there are few metal parts that need replacement (not sure what, may be relay or something) but he couldn't find parts so he just cleaned/polished them.


    Maybe try to find out more information about what parts he think he thinks need replacing. Just because he couldn't find parts doesn't mean there isn't something out there that wouldn't work; it just might not be original.

    Does cutting out mean it intermittently cuts out or is there no sound from the left channel at all?

  9. #9

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    have you noticed the problem re-appearing with a difference in output volume? how about speaker impedance?
    Last edited by canadianicon25; 07-10-2013 at 10:40 AM.

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    more questions:

    does the problem appear when only using the rx. as an amplifier, bypassing the pre-amp section?

  11. #11

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    No idea yet.
    I just got it and powered up.
    Haven't even hooked up speakers yet.

    Not sure about what parts as PO also doesn't know.
    All he remembered was the tech said few metal parts inside (not outside switches/knobs) needed replacements but he couldn't find those or that part in ebay or other parts store.
    PO said it's not resistor or capacitor but if he had to guess, it's something related to metal switch inside.
    So may be dirty relay switch or something that's beyond my head as I've not even opened it yet.

    Boston A400,VR950, DefTech BP10,, Klipsch Forte,KSP-400,KSF-C5,RF3,RC3.
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    You can't always get the sound you "want" but if you try sometime, you just might find, you get the "few months" of sound that you "need"!

    Whip on a little STONES! And enjoy the Sansui!

    cnh
    Onkyo TX-SR 805 System #1 HT AVR
    Office Two Channel: LSi-7s (Nakamichi CA-5, NAD 214, Pioneer BDP51fd)
    Vintage Polks: Polk Monitor 5As, Monitor 7Bs [HK 730], Monitor 10As [Marantz 2265], SDA-2Bs [Jolida JD-303, Jolida MV-MK4]
    Headphones: HD600, Q701, ATH-M50s etc. Bravo Audio Ocean amp., Onkyo P-304, Adcom GFA-555, Technics Direct Drive TT

  13. #13

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    okay. before you hook them up to speakers measure the DC offset of both channels!

    in case you don't know how, forgive me if you do:

    get a multimeter. set it measure DC voltage, smallest amount. power on the unit. connect the test leads to the speaker terminals on the side of the receiver. the DC offset should be in the millivolt range preferably less then 50mV.

    ...few metal parts inside...

    this just seems odd that this is the description that a service tech would use. it raises a bit of a flag. inside there aren't many 'metal parts'. also, the failure is occurring over time. most failures in electronics are instant and persistent; not slowly coming on over usage.
    Last edited by canadianicon25; 07-10-2013 at 04:30 PM.

  14. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by canadianicon25 View Post
    okay. before you hook them up to speakers measure the DC offset of both channels!

    in case you don't know how, forgive me if you do:

    get a multimeter. set it measure DC voltage, smallest amount. power on the unit. connect the test leads to the speaker terminals on the side of the receiver. the DC offset should be in the millivolt range preferably less then 50mV.

    ...few metal parts inside...

    this just seems odd that this is the description that a service tech would use. it raises a bit of a flag. inside there aren't many 'metal parts'. also, the failure is occurring over time. most failures in electronics are instant and persistent; not slowly coming on over usage.
    I'm familiar with DC offset and adjusted quite a few Pioneer SX series to spec (<20mv) but thanks for reminder.
    Also, PO was using it until recently so hopefully that part should be okay.

    Yes, the problem sounds really weird to me.

    Boston A400,VR950, DefTech BP10,, Klipsch Forte,KSP-400,KSF-C5,RF3,RC3.
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    the only thing that comes to mind is the volume pot being really dirty and over time (usage) the grime works its way in again an interrupts the circuit. if that is the case, then it would be hard to find a replacement for it.

    output transistors can fail on vintage gear but usually they will fail under heavy loading (high volumes, lower speaker impedance) and will not change over time and would probably work with low volumes just fine.

  16. #16

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    DC voltage:
    Speakers System A: Right = -25.9 and Left = -71.6

    Speakers System B: Right = -25.7 and Left = -71.9

    When I checked again back and forth, I think it's the same reading on both sets.

    So the left channel is little off and that causes slightly lower volume but that may not be the only cause.

    Need to check service manual to adjust it.
    Last edited by Mystery; 07-10-2013 at 08:29 PM.

    Boston A400,VR950, DefTech BP10,, Klipsch Forte,KSP-400,KSF-C5,RF3,RC3.
    JBL L20t,L80t3, EPI 20+,T/E 280, Polk 4,4.5,5A,7C, KEF Coda III, Yamaha NS-690, Genesis 3+.
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  17. #17

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    check hifiengine.com for service manual.

    was the DC offset reading the same after the unit had been powered on for 5mins or so?

  18. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by canadianicon25 View Post
    check hifiengine.com for service manual.

    was the DC offset reading the same after the unit had been powered on for 5mins or so?
    I have the manual from akdatabase and need to go through it.

    Yes, it was powered on for around 20 minutes before I checked DC voltage.
    thanks

    Boston A400,VR950, DefTech BP10,, Klipsch Forte,KSP-400,KSF-C5,RF3,RC3.
    JBL L20t,L80t3, EPI 20+,T/E 280, Polk 4,4.5,5A,7C, KEF Coda III, Yamaha NS-690, Genesis 3+.
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  19. #19

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    good luck.

    you could always fire a post to the solid state board at diyaudio.com

    lots of good advice over there.

  20. #20

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    Thanks.
    Also forgot to mention that pre-amp and amp are not hooked at this moment.
    I just have it powered and speaker switch on.

    Name:  Sansui G-8000 Pre-out side.JPG
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  21. #21

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    manual is little vague on that. maybe check the DC offset again this time with the pre-amp connected to the amplifier section.

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    Here is a picture of my G-8000. Bought it new in 1979. I have 2.3TL's but have not hooked them up to it yet. The amp has a hard time trying to drive Carver ALIII's, so I am not sure how well it would drive the Polks. It is old and probably needs a recap. I did notice in the past few years that the phono section will not put out like it used to. I have to really crank the volume up. I split the amp and pre and tried a different pre and all was well again. I have all the paperwork and manual and box including the supplied schematic. If you need any info, please ask. Have fun with it, a really nice receiver!
    Attached Images  

  23. #23

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    The amp has a hard time trying to drive Carver ALIII's

    Did you drive these speakers a lot? Those needs serious power. 4ohm with 80 something efficiency. Monoblocks would be great for those.

    I did notice in the past few years that the phono section will not put out like it used to. I have to really crank the volume up. I split the amp and pre and tried a different pre and all was well again

    Sounds like it could be transistors that are going bad. Generally when it doesn't power like it used to it means that trans. are starting to fail. Sounds like the power amp section is fine though. Problem could be isolated to pre-amp section and/or phono section.
    Last edited by canadianicon25; 07-10-2013 at 11:13 PM.

  24. #24

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    Did you drive these speakers a lot?
    Not that much. I am guessing not more than 50 hours at the most. I switched to a Nakamichi Pa-5II and it does better, but still not great. Those ribbons soak up a lot of power. I have never had the volume higher than say 48%, less than half. Now it is even less, getting older and have a bit of tinitus. I only listen at less than 90db per my RS sound meter.

  25. #25

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    Quote Originally Posted by canadianicon25 View Post
    manual is little vague on that. maybe check the DC offset again this time with the pre-amp connected to the amplifier section.
    I got service manual from here: http://akdatabase.org/AKview/albums/...%20Service.pdf

    1st page has wrong specs. It mentions 120 w for both 8 and 4 ohms. So either it's same for both loads or it's a typo.

    I checked with pre and amp hooked up with RCA cables and it's no difference.
    Readings were -24 and -66mv.
    BTW, what does that do? The receiver works fine without those two connected.
    I tested FM, Aux, Tape etc... inputs and works fine as it is.

    It looks like the issue is with Volume knob and may be with 4ch/NR Adapter button.
    When I first hooked a speaker, there was hardly any sound from left channel.
    I had the volume at 50 and still very low high frequency sound.
    Then I fiddled the two volume knobs and sound came out fine.
    Volume knob may have corroded or something.

    Then I pressed 4ch/NR Adapter button, and no sound. Not sure if that's what it supposed to do without adapter hooked up.
    I wiggled that button and some sound and scratchiness.

    Quote Originally Posted by jim 249 View Post
    Here is a picture of my G-8000. Bought it new in 1979. I have 2.3TL's but have not hooked them up to it yet. The amp has a hard time trying to drive Carver ALIII's, so I am not sure how well it would drive the Polks. It is old and probably needs a recap. I did notice in the past few years that the phono section will not put out like it used to. I have to really crank the volume up. I split the amp and pre and tried a different pre and all was well again. I have all the paperwork and manual and box including the supplied schematic. If you need any info, please ask. Have fun with it, a really nice receiver!
    I got the service manual and brochure but no links for user manual.
    May be it's same as service manual.
    thanks

    Boston A400,VR950, DefTech BP10,, Klipsch Forte,KSP-400,KSF-C5,RF3,RC3.
    JBL L20t,L80t3, EPI 20+,T/E 280, Polk 4,4.5,5A,7C, KEF Coda III, Yamaha NS-690, Genesis 3+.
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  26. #26

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    Hope you get it working... maybe deoxit on the pre amp/power amp switch?
    It's a handsome looking amp.

    I use two cleaners.... electrosol contact cleaner with zero residue and I hit it with nutrol contact cleaner with special lubricants. The local repair guy told me that often you need those special lubricants to prevent oxidation from happening quickly again.
    I typically use the zero residue cleaner first... rotate the know 75 times or so... then hit is with the cleaner with special lubricants and rotate a few more times.

    Just a thought... I could be totally off or you probably already know about this (does deoxit have lubricants in it?)

    I've got a G9700 that does not have that ability to separate the pre and power... it would come in handy.

  27. #27

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    DeOxit has different versions.
    DeOxit has 5% cleaning but it does mention lubrication.

    Use DeoxIT spray anywhere you suspect heavy oxidation problems on audio/video contact surfaces.
    + Dissolves oxidation & corrosion
    + Reduces intermittent connections
    + Improves signal quality & data transfer speeds
    + Reduces wear and abrasion
    + Cleans, lubricates, and seals connections
    + Reduces arcing and RFI

    DeOxit Gold has more protective layer and less cleaning power.
    So DeOxit first followed by Gold will ensure longer operation.

    But for Pots/knobs, DeOxit Faderlube is better product.
    Last edited by Mystery; 07-11-2013 at 12:34 PM.

    Boston A400,VR950, DefTech BP10,, Klipsch Forte,KSP-400,KSF-C5,RF3,RC3.
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    Wouldn't the FIRST thing any GOOD TECH would DO is check the DC offset? A no brainer for "any" repair guy. So not sure why all the buzz about this above.

    DeOxit? Well even a technical incompetent like yours truly can use that on his vintage integrateds and receivers. Am I missing something here? Wouldn't the TECH have DONE ALL OF THAT?

    Also, as I understand it, using deoxit is something that might have to be done every six months or so on OLD equipment. So having a little problem with the volume or balance should be a recurring phenomenon that is standard maintenance.

    Then again, what do I know? Perhaps mhardy will check in here and correct me if I'm too far afield? Real "wisdom" is always appreciated!

    cnh
    Last edited by cnh; 07-11-2013 at 02:55 PM.
    Onkyo TX-SR 805 System #1 HT AVR
    Office Two Channel: LSi-7s (Nakamichi CA-5, NAD 214, Pioneer BDP51fd)
    Vintage Polks: Polk Monitor 5As, Monitor 7Bs [HK 730], Monitor 10As [Marantz 2265], SDA-2Bs [Jolida JD-303, Jolida MV-MK4]
    Headphones: HD600, Q701, ATH-M50s etc. Bravo Audio Ocean amp., Onkyo P-304, Adcom GFA-555, Technics Direct Drive TT

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mystery View Post
    I checked with pre and amp hooked up with RCA cables and it's no difference.
    Readings were -24 and -66mv.
    BTW, what does that do? The receiver works fine without those two connected.
    I tested FM, Aux, Tape etc... inputs and works fine as it is.
    I reserve my right to be a) wrong, or b) pointing out something that isn't your actual question, but the Sansui's pre and amp can be connected internally when in the connected position, or, you can use just the 'Sui's preamp (using RCAs to another amp) or just the 'Sui's amp (using RCAs from an external preamp). Separating the two with the switch should yield similar/near identical sonic results, only you're adding a pair of IC's.

    Cool unit. I'm quite fond of vintage Sansui!

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    Quote Originally Posted by agfrost View Post
    I reserve my right to be a) wrong, or b) pointing out something that isn't your actual question, but the Sansui's pre and amp can be connected internally when in the connected position, or, you can use just the 'Sui's preamp (using RCAs to another amp) or just the 'Sui's amp (using RCAs from an external preamp). Separating the two with the switch should yield similar/near identical sonic results, only you're adding a pair of IC's.

    Cool unit. I'm quite fond of vintage Sansui!
    That confused me too the point of confusion.
    Haha...

    Boston A400,VR950, DefTech BP10,, Klipsch Forte,KSP-400,KSF-C5,RF3,RC3.
    JBL L20t,L80t3, EPI 20+,T/E 280, Polk 4,4.5,5A,7C, KEF Coda III, Yamaha NS-690, Genesis 3+.
    SUB:Deftech PF15TL+, DCM TB1010, Velodyne VA08BVX10. Pre: HK AP2500. Amps: BB175, Adcom GFA-535,555II, Rotel RB-990BX.

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