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  1. #31

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    Into a Monster HTS2600ii, subs have their own HTS2600ii. Bought them for $60 each, figured it would be a good surge protector/turn-everything-on-with-one-button device, was amazed to hear a difference so I kept it. Current-ly researching what to plug my soon to arrive HCA-3500.
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    RT5000p Waiting in the Wings...

  2. #32

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    The wall. If the imaging collapsed, I would recommend changing the outlet itself. There's no telling what resides inside that thing. Could have paint, dust, debris, cockroach droppings, corrosion, a bad ground or a loose connection. You don't need to go balls to the wall. Just a new outlet. If you heard mo'betta' bass then you "should" [in theory] have heard the same, if not better, imaging. I do agree with the repositioning of things after the swap out. Everything affects everything. You might want to try De-Oxit on the plug that hits the outlet as well, along with any other connection that was or could have been moved during the swap out. IME, imaging has much to do with the connections itself and the purity/conductivity thereof.

    With that said, please note; this is solely based upon my own experience and does not reflect any type of generic or generalized situation.

    Tom
    In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence.

    "The best way to enjoy digital music reproduction is to never listen to good analogue reproduction". - Kenneth Swauger

  3. #33

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    The Wall !!!

  4. #34

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    So it's set....the wall is the answer. Tom makes a good point often overlooked. Your wall outlet. Most are still cheap construction grade original outlets probably never been changed out. I would suggest anyone moving up into decent stereo gear/power cords changed those puppies out first. Don't need to spend an arm and a leg either, your local Home Depot has hospital grade plugs which is yards better than that 20-30 year old junk you most likely have in the wall now.

  5. #35

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    Use a dedicated 20A (i.e. no other devices plugged in anywhere on the circuit) circuit if you can. I ran six to my HT equipment rack when I built it. They run from a separate sub-panel fed through a 100A breaker from the main panel. Use 12 gauge copper wire, minimum, and go up if its a long run.

    My Sherbourn amp requires two dedicated 15A circuits, 20A is recommended - dual power cords- and I use two 20A circuits to feed it.

    Remember, a dedicated circuit is not just a wall outlet with nothing else plugged in - it's a circuit with nothing else plugged into it anywhere. Admittedly very hard to do without running new wiring, but worth the effort if possible. If not, unplug as much other gear as you can from the amp/AVR's circuit.

    If you replace the outlet (shut off the power at the panel FIRST!) don't use the strip-and-push connectors. Use the strip and wrap-around-the-screw connections.
    My DIY HT
    RT3000p fronts
    CS1000p center
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    RT3000p sats rear surrounds
    Polk RT35 height channel
    2 x SVS PB12/Plus 2's
    Onkyo PR-SC5507 Controller
    Sherbourne 7/2100 200 x 7 Amp
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    PS-3 BD
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  6. #36

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    This is what Steve Williams - Divisional Regulatory Engineer for APC wrote on the subject:

    The biggest violation we see is fudging the product rating. APC products are limited by the standards which require the input rating to be a maximum of 80% of the cord plug rating. As a result we can only rate our product 12A max. Many of our competitors cheat and rate their products 15A. For more detail on this subject please read the following excerpt from an article on the APC A/V web site:

    It's important to note that even UL-Listed products can have flaws. A classic example is the 15-Amp rating that appears on many products provided with a 15A plug. This violates the UL standard and the NEC, which specifies that a product can only be rated at 80 percent of the plug attached to it.


    http://www.audioholics.com/audio-vid...tioner-devices

  7. #37

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    What he is saying comes from the NEC 80% rule, which states that a continuous load (running 3 hours or longer) cannot be greater than 80% of the breaker rating. IOW, the continuous current draw on a 15A circuit cannot be more than 12A, and on a 20A circuit, no more than 16A.
    Main system: Denon DP-59L | Audio-Technica AT33EV | Marantz Reference Series SA-11S2 | Classé CP-50, modified | Classé CA-300, modified | Classé DR-10, modified | Classé RC-1 | PSB Stratus Gold i's | DIY Balanced AC Power Conditioner with surge/spike suppression | Acoustic Zen and NeoTech cables | Oyaide and Furutech AC power connectors and receptacles | Hi-Fi Tuning Supreme fuses | Dedicated 20A IG AC line

  8. #38

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    Wall, but I give it its own circuit.
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    Blue Jeans cable + ICs

  9. #39

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    Wall sockets on different circuits for my two big amps. Different circuits is the only stipulation I have when I plug in high wattage amps.

  10. #40

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    Dedicated 20 amp AC circuit for each amp. Each AC circuit terminated by a PS Audio Soloist Premier SE in-wall passive power conditioner. PS Audio AC 12 power cords between wall and amps.
    "Polk SDA-SRSs are hopelessly out of date both sonically and technologically... I see no value whatsoever in older SDA speakers."~Audio Asylum Member
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  11. #41

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    Quote Originally Posted by DarqueKnight View Post
    Dedicated 20 amp AC circuit for each amp. Each AC circuit terminated by a PS Audio Soloist Premier SE in-wall passive power conditioner. PS Audio AC 12 power cords between wall and amps.
    Someday when your more dedicated to audio than you are now, you will run copper wire straight from the transformer line to your amps.....

    I kid, I kid. I am jealous of your setup, its quite nice and I keep telling my wife if DK can make those SDA's look that good in his setup, I can too, so let me get a pair.... hasnt worked yet
    Advice is free, the Flea Market is earned - F1Nut

    Main HT: APC H15 | Pio 51FD | Uverse DVR | Xbox 360 | Squeezebox Classic | Integra DTR 5.9 | Carver AV-705x & M1.0t MKII Opt002 | LSi 15 | LSiC | LSi F/x | Kimber Hero IC & 8VS SC

    Office Rig: Win 7 -> DacMagic w/ Pangea PSU | Pro-ject Debut III | Sunfire TGP-II | Parasound HCA-750ii | Polk RTA 11TL | Cables TBA

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  12. #42

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    If you do not have a dedicated circuit I would stick with a line conditioner. It will keep the power at 110 or 120v and will clean the power up.
    2CH Setup.
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  13. #43

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    Quote Originally Posted by EndersShadow View Post
    Someday when your more dedicated to audio than you are now, you will run copper wire straight from the transformer line to your amps.....

    I kid, I kid. I am jealous of your setup, its quite nice and I keep telling my wife if DK can make those SDA's look that good in his setup, I can too, so let me get a pair.... hasnt worked yet
    Good for her. You're an equipment whore as it is.
    Usher CP-6311, Shuguang S200MK, Shuguang S845MK, Pioneer BDP-51fd, Douglas IC's, AQ cv-8 SC's, Pangea/Douglas PC's, Epson 8100

  14. #44

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    Only a few 'power conditioners' adjust the line voltage and of those that do, only a much smaller few do it well. Some power amplifiers (think Carver) get very upset with line voltage adjusters.

  15. #45

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    Quote Originally Posted by Speedskater View Post
    Only a few 'power conditioners' adjust the line voltage and of those that do, only a much smaller few do it well. Some power amplifiers (think Carver) get very upset with line voltage adjusters.
    Well said. A real line conditioner (not a power strip or surge suppressor) will 'trade' current for voltage and maintain voltage within a certain range. This will max out once max current is drawn by the circuit. The equation is volts x amps x power factor. If volts go down, a true line conditioner will increase current to provide more voltage - up to maximum current available. A real line conditioner will run in the hundreds into to the thousands of dollars. By the way, the power supply inside your amp does the same thing.....

    Surge suppressors can provide some benefit from MOV's. They can help cut voltage spikes, but they will not adjust voltage. If you have lots of bucks, a true online, double-conversion uninterruptible power system will allow consistent voltage. Basically you set the voltage and it maintains it using line power and battery power if needed. Way overkill for audio purposes.

    Plug your amp into the wall, preferably on a dedicated circuit. The amps power supply is designed to operate in a wide range of voltage conditions.
    My DIY HT
    RT3000p fronts
    CS1000p center
    F/X1000 side surrounds
    RT3000p sats rear surrounds
    Polk RT35 height channel
    2 x SVS PB12/Plus 2's
    Onkyo PR-SC5507 Controller
    Sherbourne 7/2100 200 x 7 Amp
    Sherbourne TST4 100 x 2 Amp
    PS-3 BD
    HD-A35 HD DVD
    Oppo DV-980H for hirez audio
    Technics SL-D2 TT
    DVDO VP30 with SDI input
    HDFury for HDMI to RGBHV conversion
    NEC 10PG CRT projector
    Draper AT1200 acoustically transparent screen
    Berkline 090 electric recliners with Aura Bass Shakers

  16. #46

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    For what it's worth. A laugh, a chuckle or seriousness.

    From the Pass Labs XA Owners Manual:

    Interconnects and Speaker Cables
    We have a general recommendation about interconnects, and speaker cables: They should cost less than the amplifier, and contain at least some conductive material. We have tried a lot of products and most work well, but as a practical matter we cannot make blanket recommendations.

    The amplifier is not sensitive to source interconnects. It is also not sensitive to radio frequency pickup, which allows some flexibility in choosing source interconnects without shields, though shields are usually a very good idea. For long runs balanced cables are highly recommended for their inherent rejection of noise.

    We prefer speaker cables that are short and stout. Oxygen-free copper and silver are the suggested materials. If you find any really exceptional cable made of gold, please gift us a couple hundred feet.

    Fortunately this amplifier is not sensitive to the capacitive/inductive character of some of the specialty speaker cables, so feel free to experiment.

    We have found that about 90 per cent of bad sounding cables are really bad sounding connections, and we recommend that attention be paid to cleanliness of electrical contact surfaces and proper connector fit.
    Tom
    In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence.

    "The best way to enjoy digital music reproduction is to never listen to good analogue reproduction". - Kenneth Swauger

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