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  1. #1

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    Default ADCOM GFA-545 II one channel problems. possible fuse?

    I have a ADCOM GFA-545 II that i purchased here that is not working on one channel. It was working fine the last time I had it hooked up. I packed it away for the last year and recently brought it out again. I think that it may be the fuse since i was connecting it with bare wire and was having issues getting the speaker wire to stay wrapped around the post. Last night i moved to banana's to ensure that there was a solid connection. I will be taking out the fuse when I get home today to see if it is the issue.

    I was curious if these are standard fuses that I could pick up at like a Radio shack or something. The owners manual has these fuses listed specifically.

    Bussman AGC-6/250v
    Littelfuse 3AG312006/250v
    Bel 3AG 6A/125v

    Any other ideas as to what is wrong would be welcome as well. Thanks.
    Front - RTiA5's
    Rear - RTiA3's
    Center - CSiA4
    Sub - PSW110

  2. #2

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    Most likely a fuse and it is *possible* to find those fuses at your average Radio Shack although, I have favored my local auto parts store in most cases. With a part number, even if it isn't a brand they carry, they can offer up an alternative brand that they do carry using their cross-reference charts.
    "Unwad those panties and have a good time man. We're all here to help each other, no matter how it might appear." DSkip
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  3. #3

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    Cool. I will be checking it out after work today.
    Front - RTiA5's
    Rear - RTiA3's
    Center - CSiA4
    Sub - PSW110

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    That of course would be the cheapest and easiest thing to check first. If in fact you actually think you shorted them.As stated before most all auto parts stores have glass fuses of all values and sizes but bring the alledgally beat ones w/ you.If you have a digi meter you could test it at home also.

  5. #5

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    I think that I may have shorted them as the wire came off the binding post. I looked behind it and it was touching the other side. I will find out for sure this evening. If it is not the fuse i will be back here looking for advice this evening.
    Front - RTiA5's
    Rear - RTiA3's
    Center - CSiA4
    Sub - PSW110

  6. #6

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    So i pulled the fuse out of the back of the unit and it looks good. I was reading online and it appears that there is a fuse for each channel inside the unit as well. I was able to remove all but 2 of the rivets using an allen wrench. I will need to get a small drill bit to remove the last 2. Is it true that there are fuses inside? How dangerous is it to open up the amp and try to replace them? I see all types of warning that it should never be done, but i dont really want to ship it somewhere to replace a fuse.

    Any insight is appreciated
    Front - RTiA5's
    Rear - RTiA3's
    Center - CSiA4
    Sub - PSW110

  7. #7

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    Alledgedly capacitors can hold a charge for quite some time even unplugged.What that time frame is I have no idea.People I have heard have been seriouly shocked by touching the inards w/o discharging the caps 1st.I also removed the top of my 555 just to see what was in there and I used and your right those screws were tight not an allen wrench but an allen head driver w/ more torque or you can try to insert a sleeve of some kind to increase said leverage w/ your allen set.
    2chl- Adcom 555- NAD 1020a pre- JVC-QL-A200 tt- Denon 1940 ci cdp- Samson - 9 outlet- Niles - 6 zone spkr selector- DCM TF 350s- ADC 303ax- KLH 331- Polk Audio '87 SDA 2Bs w/ ic cable (Dynamat extreme, black hole-5- Mills 0.5 resistor, liquid nails, RDO- 194 tweeters, Larry's rings, Armaflex gaskets, stained walnut tops )

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  8. #8

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    Alledgedly capacitors can hold a charge for quite some time even unplugged.What that time frame is I have no idea.People I have heard have been seriouly shocked by touching the inards w/o discharging the caps 1st.I also removed the top of my 555 just to see what was in there and I used and your right those screws were tight not an allen wrench but an allen head driver w/ more torque or you can try to insert a sleeve of some kind to increase said leverage w/ your allen set.Also looking good really doesn't mean it's good, you can have a beat filament under the cap end and never see it
    2chl- Adcom 555- NAD 1020a pre- JVC-QL-A200 tt- Denon 1940 ci cdp- Samson - 9 outlet- Niles - 6 zone spkr selector- DCM TF 350s- ADC 303ax- KLH 331- Polk Audio '87 SDA 2Bs w/ ic cable (Dynamat extreme, black hole-5- Mills 0.5 resistor, liquid nails, RDO- 194 tweeters, Larry's rings, Armaflex gaskets, stained walnut tops )

    H/T- Toshiba au40" flat- Yamaha RX- V665 avr- YSD-11 Dock- I-Pod- Klipsch #500HD Speaker set- Sony ce 375 5 disc carosel cdp-

    Nikko 6065 receiver- JBL J2060

  9. #9

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    I agree that it could still be the fuse in back. I was thinking that since it is the ac line fuse, it was for power to the whole unit. Since one channel works I was assuming that it was not this fuse. I will pick one up today to be sure since they are cheap.
    Front - RTiA5's
    Rear - RTiA3's
    Center - CSiA4
    Sub - PSW110

  10. #10

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    Open it up are the last two screw heads stripped? I replaced both fuses inside my 545 they were the braided slow blow type can't rember the what amp they were you will see that once you open it up and Radio Shack is where I got mine.

  11. #11

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    Yep I had to open up one of the 535s I had and replace the fuses. Got em at rat shack easy peasy and I am an academic! If I can do it anyone can...

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