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  1. #1

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    Default Cedarslink LK-1200C 2 channel amp gets very hot

    Ok so I just got 2 12" Cedarslink LK-1500 subs (2000w) installed in my car with a Cedarslink LK-1200w 2 channel amp and a Pioneer deck. The subs sound great but after only about 30 minutes of playing them on loud volume the amp gets so hot you can barely touch it without burning the **** out of your hand. Im not very educated on car audio systems but this wasnt a cheap system and Id like to know if my amp is at risk here. It never shuts off from being too hot or go into safety mode like the last amp I had (it was a crappy 1500w powerbank). So do I need to go and get a 3000w Cedarslink to handle these subs or could it possibly be something else (or is the amp fine with handling that heat)? The wires powering everything are cedarslink as well and the more expensive ones (sorry I dont know what theyre called or even the gauge). And its all in a 1998 Toyota Corolla with stock alternator and car battery. what could be my problem? all input it appreciated!

  2. #2

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    Sorry that this isnt Polk related, but hopefully someone will have some knowledge on what Im talking about lol

  3. #3

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    I've never heard of the company, so I can only assume is flea-market type products. Even the numbers suggest they are. If I'm right, its probably a poorly designed amp. If you want something that puts out less heat, I'd recommend you find a Class D amp from a respected company. While the power ratings may be listed as lower, the actual power output will be greater than the current one.

    Another thing is that you could have them wired so that the amp is getting 2 ohms or less, and the amp might not like that. Lower resistance produces more heat.
    Usher CP-6311, Shuguang S200MK, Shuguang S845MK, Pioneer BDP-51fd, Essence Audio HDACC, Douglas IC's, Douglas Alpha bi-wire SC's, Pangea/Douglas PC's, Epson 8100

  4. #4

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    this is a reputable brand, i've heard great things about them and know of a few shops in Northern California that carry their products. Those subs are rated at 400 watts RMS, but i definitely do recommend using the 3,000 watt amplifier they make for that setup. That 1,200 watt amp probably is not 1 OHM stable and whoever installed it did the wiring incorrectly so go back to them. nonetheless, you do need to upgrade that amplifier, and i'd stick with the 3,000 watt cedarslink amp. just looked them up, they look great. a bit pricey but they look great. good luck!

  5. #5

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    lotofsound is either a company shill for Cedarslink or he's on some good drugs.

    http://www.caraudioforum.com/showthread.php?t=347190

    The website: http://cedarslink.com/

    Looks like run-of-the-mill Taiwanese conglomerate stuff.

    To the OP, the heat issue is concerning because it really shouldn't be getting to the point where it's generating that much heat. I doubt it has anything to do with how it was installed unless the load presented to the amplifier is tow low of an impedance for it. But if that was the case, something would have popped and blown by now I would think.

    If you are going to spend money on a new amp, this Polk Audio unit will be plenty powerful what you have going on.

    http://www.polkaudio.com/products/pad1000_1

    The website says those Cedarslink subs are DVC with 4 ohm coils. So wire each sub to present a 2 ohm load and then wire the subs together to present a 4 ohm load to the amp. You'll have about 250 watts per channel RMS. But honestly, with a speaker that is rated at 400 watts RMS but has a 2,000 watt peak rating...it's probably safer to run that at just past 50% of the RMS rating. You could wire it to a 1 ohm load but you'll push 800 watts RMS per sub which is way too much.
    You're just jealous 'cause the voices don't talk to you!

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