I've surfed through a lot of old threads here looking for information. I reported last weekend having picked up a pair of 1.2TLs at a price I couldn't refuse despite the drive. I found that one tweeter was bad, and I found a replacement on Ebay and installed it and while test-driving it in its new home, another went bad. For this reason, I'll be looking into the Polk replacements when they become available (in October, right?) I figure if one was bad, and another went, there may be more casualties.
This lead me to do some research on repairing these. I decided to open one up. As my research indicated would be likely, the tiny hair-sized lead on one side had become detached. I figure age and 650 miles of bad road home took its toll. That also probably means the rest are not too long for operative condition either. I-10 through Louisiana is pretty washboard-ish, particularly in an F350. Nevertheless, the damage is done, so now I'm in rehab mode. Since the new tweeters aren't available right now, I'm going to need to make do.
F1Nut mentioned that the ferro fluid was likely sludge. True. Nevertheless, I soldiered on, staying up far too late last night and into the wee hours of the morning with an illuminated magnifier, and improvising some conductive adhesive. (It's actually amazing that I managed this at all. While my vision at a distance is great, I am finding now in my late 40's that myopia is beginning to set in, much to my annoyance, so that the magnifying glass is necessary. I digress...)
I succeeded in re-attaching the tiny lead. It reads a bit off-spec, however. All of the others in the cabinet range from 5.9ohms to 6.1ohms. This one now pegs the meter at 6.2ohms. I let it set overnight(okay, from 4am-9am this morning) held together by a small hemostat, and when I woke up, I immediately went to remove the hemostat and worried that the adhesive would cause the tool to stick to the wire, only to detach it again upon removal, but this did not happen. I re-checked my resistance and reassembled. Still at 6.2ohms. I re-installed the tweeter. I tested the speaker. Amazingly, it works, for now...
I actually dug around here until I found a thread about changing/replacing ferro fluid, that included some specs from a polk engineer. F1Nut, you seemed to be much-involved in that thread though it was a decade ago. Did you ever have any success?
I guess this is what a fella does when he can't get replacements, but still wants to tinker and hear the speakers?