Free Shipping on All Orders 1-866-764-1801

Vist our Online Store
+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 30 of 42
  1. #1

    Member Sales Rating: (0)

    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    west bend, wi.
    Posts
    306

    Default RTA12B mid-range took a dump

    I hope i'm posting this in the right place. anyway, about a week ago, the left-hand, mid-range in the right channel
    speaker took a dump. It may have happened due to a voltage surge during a storm. in any event, it is now very
    scratchy, and sounds terrible. my question is; am I better off removing the speaker via the front screws and
    disconnecting it until I find a replacement? also, what is a good source for a replacement? this really sucks---.
    thanks for any help.
    "The symbol is not the reality"

  2. #2

    Member Sales Rating: (0)

    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    135

    Default

    You can get a new replacement from Polk for $48.00 or you can find used ones on ebay or in the for sale section here. I have had to replace 3 mid-range drivers on my RTA-12Bs.

  3. #3

    Member Sales Rating: (0)

    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    west bend, wi.
    Posts
    306

    Default

    thanks for the info. i'll probably get a replacement from polk to be safe. is it okay to just disconnect the current one
    in the interim and use the speakers without till I get a new one?
    "The symbol is not the reality"

  4. #4

    Member Sales Rating: (0)

    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    fla
    Posts
    1,812

    Default

    What driver # is it as if mx6600 there are some jere available .
    Main Rig:
    Krell KAV 250a
    McIntosh MC 2120 bi-amped
    Into JBL L123 drivers
    Rane external crossover.
    MIT exp 1 ic's
    Perreaux SA33 class A preamp
    AQ kingcobra ic's
    ADCOM GDA 700 DAC ( MODDED)
    YAMMY CDC-665
    Marantz 6100 tt w/pickering XV-15/625E cart.
    Monster HTS 3600 power conditioner
    POLK RTA-12C'S W/ RDO194 TWEETS, clarity ESA caps mills risistors (full mod)
    MIT exps2 speaker cable

  5. #5

    Member Sales Rating: (0)

    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    west bend, wi.
    Posts
    306

    Default

    soundfreak1; I wouldn't know unless I take it out; would I? that's 1 reason i'm asking if that's ok at this point. also, I would think the speaker would sound better without the scratchy mid-range, but I don't know. thanks.
    "The symbol is not the reality"

  6. #6

    Member Sales Rating: (1)

    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    central Illinois
    Posts
    3,593

    Default

    Take it out and get the number off it. If it were mine I would not play while the broken woofer is out. Better safe than sorry.
    Sounds to me that a magnet slipped. I would go ahead and JB Weld all the rest of my drivers magnets while I'm waiting and have these apart.

  7. #7

    Member Sales Rating: (0)

    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    west bend, wi.
    Posts
    306

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by pitdogg2 View Post
    Take it out and get the number off it. If it were mine I would not play while the broken woofer is out. Better safe than sorry.
    Sounds to me that a magnet slipped. I would go ahead and JB Weld all the rest of my drivers magnets while I'm waiting and have these apart.
    pittdog2; it's not the woofer--it's the left midrange in the right channel speaker. if it's not ok to remove it, i'd just as soon leave
    it in till I get a replacement. can't live without the music however scratchy-----------------
    "The symbol is not the reality"

  8. #8

    Member Sales Rating: (0)

    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Evergreen, CO
    Posts
    1,027

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by laotzu61 View Post
    pittdog2; it's not the woofer--it's the left midrange in the right channel speaker.
    They're one in the same.

    Unscrew the midwoofer, make not of which color is positive and which is ground, disconnect the woofer, get the model number off the back probably mw6600, screw the woofer back in while still disconnected so that you can still play the speakers, order a replacement.

    Edit: Use electric tape or some other form of making sure the dangling wires that were once on the woofer don't touch each other.
    Last edited by Nightfall; 09-18-2013 at 11:33 AM.
    |Fronts - Peerless RTA-12B | Center(s) - Peerless Monitor 5 | Rears - Peerless Monitor 4 |
    |AVR - Yamaha Aventage RX-A1020 |
    |TV - Philips 46" Smart LED | Gaming - Xbox One - Xbox 360 | Headphones - Philips Fidelio X1 |

  9. #9

    Member Sales Rating: (0)

    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    west bend, wi.
    Posts
    306

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Nightfall View Post
    They're one in the same.

    Unscrew the midwoofer, make not of which color is positive and which is ground, disconnect the woofer, get the model number off the back probably mw6600, screw the woofer back in while still disconnected so that you can still play the speakers, order a replacement.
    thank you, nightfall. i'm on it. will I be dealing with solder connections, or some sort of plug-ins? thanks again.
    "The symbol is not the reality"

  10. #10

    Member Sales Rating: (0)

    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Evergreen, CO
    Posts
    1,027

    Default

    No, they just pull on and off. Note my edit in post #8.
    |Fronts - Peerless RTA-12B | Center(s) - Peerless Monitor 5 | Rears - Peerless Monitor 4 |
    |AVR - Yamaha Aventage RX-A1020 |
    |TV - Philips 46" Smart LED | Gaming - Xbox One - Xbox 360 | Headphones - Philips Fidelio X1 |

  11. #11

    Member Sales Rating: (0)

    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Evergreen, CO
    Posts
    1,027

    Default

    Also, the two different woofers are rolled off at different frequencies so they might sound... off, until you replace the broken one.
    |Fronts - Peerless RTA-12B | Center(s) - Peerless Monitor 5 | Rears - Peerless Monitor 4 |
    |AVR - Yamaha Aventage RX-A1020 |
    |TV - Philips 46" Smart LED | Gaming - Xbox One - Xbox 360 | Headphones - Philips Fidelio X1 |

  12. #12

    Member Sales Rating: (1)

    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    central Illinois
    Posts
    3,593

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by laotzu61 View Post
    thank you, nightfall. i'm on it. will I be dealing with solder connections, or some sort of plug-ins? thanks again.
    only you can answer that. that is why we keep telling you to open it up and look.
    1. some early models were soldered later they used fast on's
    2. they used different woofers back in the day Nightfall and I know this it will either be mw6600 or maybe 6500 and it very well could be 6501.
    3. real early models may of used different woofers for each woofer i.e. 6600 on left and 6500 on right as they were left and right speakers so the outer woofers were the bass and the inner were the mid range.

  13. #13

    Member Sales Rating: (0)

    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    west bend, wi.
    Posts
    306

    Default

    thanks, guys. I really appreciate the help. get back to ya later.
    "The symbol is not the reality"

  14. #14

    Member Sales Rating: (0)

    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Central NC
    Posts
    2,534

    Default

    I have RTA 12C's, and mine use MW6600X mw's; I suspect yours do too. What are you driving these with? Might want to do a little detective work to prevent this from happening in the future.

    I bought mine new in 1984, and have never replaced anything out of necessity. Now mods, that's another story . . .
    "Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills, polyswitches removed, Lg Solen inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips installed on back wall behind MW's & Tweeters, interior of cabinets sealed, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer

  15. #15

    Member Sales Rating: (0)

    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Brownsburg, Indiana
    Posts
    9,698

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by laotzu61 View Post
    I hope i'm posting this in the right place. anyway, about a week ago, the left-hand, mid-range in the right channel
    speaker took a dump. It may have happened due to a voltage surge during a storm. in any event, it is now very
    scratchy, and sounds terrible. my question is; am I better off removing the speaker via the front screws and
    disconnecting it until I find a replacement? also, what is a good source for a replacement? this really sucks---.
    thanks for any help.
    Someone here recently was selling some woofers for the 12's IIRC...

    Boom, here we go: http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/show...A-Monitor-10Bs
    Advice is free, the Flea Market is earned - F1Nut

    Lessons cost money, good ones cost LOTS - Tony Beets

    HT: APC H15 | Pio 51FD | Uverse | Xbox 360 | Squeezebox Classic | Integra DTR 5.9 | Carver AV-705x & M1.0t MKII Opt002 | LSi 15 | LSiC | LSi F/x | Kimber Hero IC & 8VS SC

    Office: Win 7 -> DacMagic w/ Pangea PSU | DIY Pass BOSOZ| Parasound HCA-1200ii | Polk RTA 11TL | Cables TBA

    Bedroom: Uverse | Roku 2 | Samsung LCD | SurroundBar 2000

    Sales Rating
    Gear

  16. #16

    Member Sales Rating: (0)

    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    west bend, wi.
    Posts
    306

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by drumminman View Post
    I have RTA 12C's, and mine use MW6600X mw's; I suspect yours do too. What are you driving these with? Might want to do a little detective work to prevent this from happening in the future.

    I bought mine new in 1984, and have never replaced anything out of necessity. Now mods, that's another story . . .
    parasound hca-1200, which I suspect may have taked somewhat of a hit during the storm also.
    "The symbol is not the reality"

  17. #17

    Member Sales Rating: (0)

    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    west bend, wi.
    Posts
    306

    Default

    well, it's an mw6600x; 1 blue wire and 1 white wire. not sure which is considered positive and which negative, but they are
    soldered connections and it appears as tho the white may be bad. don't see any cracks in the speaker. wondering if I should clip
    both until I can fix it and put the speaker back in, or just leave as is until I can repair the solder connection if that's it, or until
    I just replace the speaker---------------
    Last edited by laotzu61; 09-18-2013 at 03:11 PM.
    "The symbol is not the reality"

  18. #18

    Member Sales Rating: (1)

    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    central Illinois
    Posts
    3,593

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by laotzu61 View Post
    well, it's an mw6600x; 1 blue wire and 1 white wire. not sure which is considered positive and which negative, but they are
    soldered connections and it appears as tho the white may be bad. don't see any cracks in the speaker. wondering if I should clip
    both until I can fix it and put the speaker back in, or just leave as is until I can repair the solder connection if that's it, or until
    I just replace the speaker---------------
    blue is positive white neutral. you could crimp on some fast on's but you'd need to get all solder off tabs first. That would be my route. Push in on woofer do you feel scratchy? If yes it's not long for this world unless you can adjust the magnet, but that does not sound like the problem as you stated. I WOULD however JB weld all driver magnets and Dynamat extreme the baskets while you're in there.

  19. #19

    Member Sales Rating: (0)

    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    west bend, wi.
    Posts
    306

    Default

    so, here is what I've done. pulled the speaker out; it's not cracked, but the solder joint to the white wire looks pretty bad at best. put it back in and it sounded worse. may have pulled on the wire to much. took it back out, clipped the 2 wires and taped them and marked them, and now they're hanging. put the speaker back in and now I have to adjust the balance to the left channel to compensate, which sounds goofy, but whatever. physics, I guess. remember this all started after a very bad thunderstorm in which I should have turned everything off, but didn't, like a dummy, thinking the surge protector would do it's job. subsequently also, when I adjust the line level knobs on the parasound, the standby led cuts in, which it never did before. according to the manual, "this red led will come on whenever you first turn the unit on. it will light for 4 to 5 seconds while the circuit is stabilizing before the protection relays click on. it will also light up whenever there is a short circuit or fault which triggers the protection relays." so---what am I looking at now as far as the parasound? not sure I want to know.
    "The symbol is not the reality"

  20. #20

    Member Sales Rating: (0)

    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Central NC
    Posts
    2,534

    Default

    Have you looked at the Xover(s) to see if any of those components are fried? Remember there's a lower one as well as one on top.

    BTW, I've never heard of Polk soldering wires to speakers. All the Polks I've seen us the quick connect push on connectors. Wonder if some previous owner has done some work on those.
    "Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills, polyswitches removed, Lg Solen inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips installed on back wall behind MW's & Tweeters, interior of cabinets sealed, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer

  21. #21

    Member Sales Rating: (0)

    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    west bend, wi.
    Posts
    306

    Default

    i'll look at the crossovers tomorrow. wouldn't the fuse protect them? as far as the soldering, looking at the job that was done, you're probably right about a previous repair.
    "The symbol is not the reality"

  22. #22

    Member Sales Rating: (0)

    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    west bend, wi.
    Posts
    306

    Default

    [QUOTE=drumminman;1964123]Have you looked at the Xover(s) to see if any of those components are fried? Remember there's a lower one as well as one on top.

    BTW, I've never heard of Polk soldering wires to speakers. All the Polks I've seen us the quick connect push on connectors. Wonder if some previous owner has done some work on those.[/QUOTE
    now that the speaker wires are disconnected, can I get the quick connect push on connectors from polk or wherever and crimp those on?
    "The symbol is not the reality"

  23. #23

    Member Sales Rating: (1)

    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    central Illinois
    Posts
    3,593

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by drumminman View Post
    BTW, I've never heard of Polk soldering wires to speakers. All the Polks I've seen us the quick connect push on connectors. Wonder if some previous owner has done some work on those.
    Polk did solder some of the older speakers I've seen Monitor10's & 7's soldered

  24. #24

    Member Sales Rating: (0)

    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    west bend, wi.
    Posts
    306

    Default

    thanks, pitdogg2. can I crimp on some quick connect push on connectors now that the 2 wires are clipped off? where would I get some? thanks again.
    "The symbol is not the reality"

  25. #25

    Member Sales Rating: (1)

    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    central Illinois
    Posts
    3,593

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by laotzu61 View Post
    thanks, pitdogg2. can I crimp on some quick connect push on connectors now that the 2 wires are clipped off? where would I get some? thanks again.
    I buy mine at auto supply store. i.e. autozone, advanced auto.
    I buy the gold plated you'll also need a crimper wire stripper to go with it to crimp properly.

  26. #26

    Member Sales Rating: (0)

    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    west bend, wi.
    Posts
    306

    Default

    pitdogg2; is there a specific size I need to ask for? thanks very much.
    "The symbol is not the reality"

  27. #27

    Member Sales Rating: (0)

    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    west bend, wi.
    Posts
    306

    Default

    I have yet another question now. took the top-hats off, and I can't hear anything coming specifically out of the tweeters. fuses are good. is this normal??
    "The symbol is not the reality"

  28. #28

    Member Sales Rating: (0)

    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Evergreen, CO
    Posts
    1,027

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by laotzu61 View Post
    I have yet another question now. took the top-hats off, and I can't hear anything coming specifically out of the tweeters. fuses are good. is this normal??
    Yikes, not at all. Try wiring the tweeters, one at a time, directly to the speaker taps on the back of your amp at a very low volume. If you have tone controls of any kind turn the bass to -(as far as it goes). Any sound?
    |Fronts - Peerless RTA-12B | Center(s) - Peerless Monitor 5 | Rears - Peerless Monitor 4 |
    |AVR - Yamaha Aventage RX-A1020 |
    |TV - Philips 46" Smart LED | Gaming - Xbox One - Xbox 360 | Headphones - Philips Fidelio X1 |

  29. #29

    Member Sales Rating: (0)

    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    The Seasonally Frozen Wastelands
    Posts
    1,184

    Default

    How does a lightning strike fry a speaker? I don't get how the surge goes through the transformer, rectifier, through the power transistors, and into the speaker crossover..

  30. #30

    Member Sales Rating: (0)

    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    west bend, wi.
    Posts
    306

    Default

    anyone know what amp fuses are used in the crossovers? I have the rta12b specs and can't find anything regarding this. also, schurkey, i'm starting to lean towards a bad solder connection. then again, why would that come into play only after the thunderstorm? btw, we now have another bad one coming thru, and I have everything disconnected this time. last one also blew out the uverse tv and internet and the techs had to come in.
    "The symbol is not the reality"

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

     

Similar Threads

  1. tweeter update for my rta12b's
    By chunny in forum DIY, Mods & Tweaks
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 02-11-2013, 08:31 AM
  2. Polk RTA12B help
    By turbomustang84 in forum Troubleshooting
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 03-12-2011, 03:55 PM
  3. RTA12B's in Phoenix
    By BottomFeeder in forum Speakers
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 08-31-2008, 03:30 AM
  4. RTA12B's & C's - Am I nutz?
    By BottomFeeder in forum Vintage Speakers
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 03-31-2007, 03:52 PM
  5. resale value of 20yr old RTA12B
    By wegenwys in forum Vintage Speakers
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 06-24-2006, 01:58 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts