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  1. #1

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    Default hey ,we're back, most mods done

    After consulting w/ Jesse and a few others the way to tackle these poly switches was 1st order the the Mills 0.5 12w which I did and they came. Now where are these swithches.I finally went into the archives and there was a great pix of one of them in mustard ,mine were blue but Jesse said that's them in the the S-1 position.Now how to deal w/ these, he suggested just heat the solder and pull the suckers out which I did and it left 2 clean holes to work with.I installed the new Mills today and until later I couldn't open them up but after I did now I don't know if an audible difference is to be heard or not but I put on 2 specific albums Diamonds and Rust Joan Baez w/ lots of high tuned acoutic guitars and the best L.A. session men at that time.The other was Carly Simon's No Secrets basically for the same reasoning and I do think there is a difference or at least I percieve there to be one.
    So the mechanical mods are done,Dynamt Extreme,Liquid Nails to seal the cabinets,Floor deadening material.Technical mods step 1. completed w/ the sh&t canning the poly switches and adding the Mills resistors, next up are the tweeters and that are still not in yet,sothis should do me for quite some time.
    BTW I was ubercareful ,no solder splatter,over run so no shorts ,opens or any detremental efectes from my work.
    Last edited by Kenneth Swauger; 09-26-2013 at 09:46 PM.
    2chl- Adcom 555- NAD 1020a pre- JVC-QL-A200 tt- Denon 1940 ci cdp- Samson - 9 outlet- Niles - 6 zone spkr selector- DCM TF 350s- ADC 303ax- KLH 331- Polk Audio '87 SDA 2Bs w/ ic cable (Dynamat extreme, black hole-5- Mills 0.5 resistor, liquid nails, RDO- 194 tweeters, Larry's rings, Armaflex gaskets, stained walnut tops )

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  2. #2

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    Default

    Looks nice & clean also, cant wait till the day i can do my upgrades - well done LW
    Randy
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  3. #3

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    Thanks, seeing that this wasn't as a hard job that I invisioned ,I just needed conformation of said switches ,the best way to remove them and that was it.Now seeing that was more of the micro surgery job given the size of the switches ,what is now a list are x-over caps to be replaced and what position and if polarity is an issue should also be brought to my attention.I found a perfect shot of the polys and for the life of me I have no idea were it was and now the hunt for the amount and values of the caps are under way. I already have ty-raps ,a good Weller gun silver solder so besides getting the caps I'm ready to go.A list of left and right x-over caps ,values and amounts and where this can be found would help greatly.

  4. #4

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    Hey leftwinger57,

    Look's like you have SDA 2B's, here's some links that should help with the crossovers.

    My Home Page for Schematics, Part List, Part Placement Guide and the Hints and Tips section.

    Parts List
    Parts Placement
    Mounting Hardware

    You don't have to use my boards but it does make it easier. (Trey at vr3mods Sell's them if your interested).

    A word on the new caps polarity is NOT an issue.

    Hope this helps.
    "It currently doesn't have a remote because I'm pretty sure my ex threw it out at some point 'cause she's a whore.!"
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  5. #5

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    Gimpod ,thanks a bunch.YES i've been in touch w/ VR-3 and they have been so helpful I was reluctant to bother them again seeing I'm not going to be be sending them out .They said mail us anytime and we will help as much as we can and they do sell stuff for DIYSrs which I did not know. I certainly will go to your sites and write them down so I refer back to them when the need arises. Thanks to all who helped along the way, as Yogi said it aint over till it's over and over it's not.Oh I almost forgot, I even called Sonicap in Texas and the dude had such a drawl that I barely understood what the f he was talking about,so I think it's a no for them and stay w/ peeps at least I can understand but not readily know what your talking about ..lololol

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by leftwinger57 View Post
    Gimpod ,thanks a bunch.YES i've been in touch w/ VR-3 and they have been so helpful I was reluctant to bother them again seeing I'm not going to be be sending them out .They said mail us anytime and we will help as much as we can and they do sell stuff for DIYSrs which I did not know. I certainly will go to your sites and write them down so I refer back to them when the need arises. Thanks to all who helped along the way, as Yogi said it aint over till it's over and over it's not.Oh I almost forgot, I even called Sonicap in Texas and the dude had such a drawl that I barely understood what the f he was talking about,so I think it's a no for them and stay w/ peeps at least I can understand but not readily know what your talking about ..lololol
    Good job on replacing the polyswitch LW.

    I suggest you go ahead and replace that other sand cast resistor and then you might hear an improvement in the high end. The Mills as you know are cheap and it would be a nice interim step until you can get the film caps to complete the Xover rebuild.
    "Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills, polyswitches removed, Lg Solen inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips installed on back wall behind MW's & Tweeters, interior of cabinets sealed, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer

  7. #7

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    Thanks, I have no idea what the other sand cast resistor is but according to Gimpod's schematic there is a resistor to do away w/ and just add a jumper. I really don't think I want to pull the passives off again for something minor.Again tweeters when available as all have said here are a must then the x-overs when finances permit and again changed my mind and will be sent out to Trey whose been unbelievably approachable,willing to give out free advice which is rare these days from a company and is patient as a mother hen w/ a dude new to Polk SDAs 2bs.Seeing your from NC are you guys close in proximity and friends or just machine relatives?

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by leftwinger57 View Post
    Thanks, I have no idea what the other sand cast resistor is but according to Gimpod's schematic there is a resistor to do away w/ and just add a jumper ?
    Its the upright mounted resistor next to the empty "C5" slot on the board. You can't miss a sand cast resistor. The case looks like its cast in sand, just as its name implies.

    Main system: Denon DP-59L | Audio-Technica AT33EV | Marantz Reference Series SA-11S2 | Classé CP-50, modified | Classé CA-300, modified | Classé DR-10, modified | Classé RC-1 | PSB Stratus Gold i's | DIY Balanced AC Power Conditioner with surge/spike suppression | Acoustic Zen and NeoTech cables | Oyaide and Furutech AC power connectors and receptacles | Hi-Fi Tuning Supreme fuses | Dedicated 20A IG AC line

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    Now that it's pointed out it's pretty obvious what a sc resistor is lol. What value of resistor is to be used in it's place or the same value that's shown in your post? I guess I could refer back to the schematic also.....

  10. #10

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    Looks like a 2.7ohm between position B & G on the board which is clearly marked also on the parts list .That's the only thing that comes close to C-5 which I probably will not entertain w/ the TL mod.

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