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  1. #1

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    Default Please help a Audio noob out

    I just bought a RTiA7, CSiA6, RTiA3. I just jumped in without much thought and now am clueless on what else is needed. I've never had good or even decent speakers before and have always used either a computer speaker or the speaker on the TV.

    Could someone on what type of cables are needed and where I could get them?

    Also suggestions on receiver and amplifier and sub? My budget is around $1500 for the three with some wiggle room.

    Currently I have a 65 panny plasma in a living area that is around 400sqft

  2. #2

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    Newegg has some receivers on sale right now. Pioneer sc63 maybe? Theres a thread about it thats pretty recent and would power your stuff easily. As for subs with what you would have left, you could easily get an SVS or Powersound sub.
    AVR - Onkyo NR809
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    Amp - Parasound 2250 - FOR SALE BTW!! PM me if interested!
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  3. #3

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    Start doing some research on receivers in the $600-900 range to leave you room for a nice sub. Denon, Marantz, Yamaha, and Pioneer all make good, easy to find models in that range. The features you would want and what components you want to connect will help make up your mind.

    In addition to the SVS and PSA recommendations for subs I'll add HSU into the mix. Any of the 3 would likely make you grin ear to ear.
    Display: LG 47" LCD | AVR: Marantz SR5005 | BD: Panasonic BDT-210 | CD/SACD: Oppo 980 |
    Amps: Rotel RB-990bx | Marantz MA-500 | Speakers: Totem Mite : Totem Mite-C : RC60i | Sub: HSU VTF-2 MKIV

    HK AVR635 | Polk R30 | Sony DVD/SACD Player

  4. #4

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    As far as cables, you'll need cables for connecting your components to the receiver (HDMI, Optical, Stereo RCA) which depend on the source and speaker wire. Monoprice cables will fit the bill for now. You can always upgrade later and won't be out much.
    Display: LG 47" LCD | AVR: Marantz SR5005 | BD: Panasonic BDT-210 | CD/SACD: Oppo 980 |
    Amps: Rotel RB-990bx | Marantz MA-500 | Speakers: Totem Mite : Totem Mite-C : RC60i | Sub: HSU VTF-2 MKIV

    HK AVR635 | Polk R30 | Sony DVD/SACD Player

  5. #5

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    Do I need a separate amplifier or will a receiver be enough to adequately power the speakers?

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by absolut3 View Post
    Do I need a separate amplifier or will a receiver be enough to adequately power the speakers?
    A receiver should be enough but not any receiver, a good one. Look at Pioneer SC lines, Yamaha Advantage lives, or upper level Harmon Kardon and Denon lines. You also want to make sure you have pre-outs to be able to add an amp down the road should you upgrade the speakers in the future.

  7. #7

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    I looked through some subs and have interest in the HSU VTF-2 MK4 Subwoofer ( http://www.hsuresearch.com/products/vtf-2mk4.html ). Would this be a good choice?

    Also looked on amazon some and saw this sub: BIC PL-200 Acoustech Platinum Series Subwoofer ( http://www.amazon.com/BIC-PL-200-Aco...dp/B001W3FXAQ/ )
    Is this sub comparable?

    I'm not really looking for a sub that'll shake the whole house. I currently live in a townhome so I want to keep it on the low side for now.

  8. #8

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    That BIC has very good reviews but HSU, SVS etc... will be much better.
    However, it doesn't matter as I live in a townhome as well for few more weeks (Finally moving out )
    Even an 8" small subwoofer will be enough for a townhome.
    If you get HSU, SVS etc., it'll be like buying a Ferrari and always driving under 35mph.
    In fact, you may not even need one.
    Try the speakers first and see if you need more bass.

    Boston A400,VR950, DefTech BP10,, Klipsch Forte,KSP-400,KSF-C5,RF3,RC3.
    JBL L20t,L80t3, EPI 20+,T/E 280, Polk 4,4.5,5A,7C, KEF Coda III, Yamaha NS-690, Genesis 3+.
    SUB:Deftech PF15TL+, DCM TB1010, Velodyne VA08BVX10. Pre: HK AP2500. Amps: BB175, Adcom GFA-535,555II, Rotel RB-990BX.

  9. #9

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    Does better sub mean more shake? Will a good quality sub be better even when the bass is set to low? Is that even possible? Sorry if i use weird terminologies.. as I said im pretty new at this.

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    No. It means it has better control over the notes. Many low end subs are very sloppy, produce one-note type bass, and as a result are only to make you feel/hear the bass, not know what it is. When you move up the line into respectable subs, there is definition to the bass and they are able to produce those notes faithfully. In some cases, what used to be one long rumble can then become several distinct, smaller rumbles.
    Usher CP-6311, Shuguang S200MK, Shuguang S845MK, Pioneer BDP-51fd, Essence Audio HDACC, Douglas IC's, Douglas Alpha bi-wire SC's, Pangea/Douglas PC's, Epson 8100

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    Welcome to Club Polk!

    As been said get a receiver that has all the bells and whistles that you want it to have, but make sure it has preouts for separate amplification. No receiver can power all those speakers to their full potential. A separate amp of 200wpc @ 8ohms will do so with ease.

    You get more bang for the buck if you buy used. Look at Sunfire, Rotel, Parasound, Nad, B&K, Adcom. For good bang for the buck new with warranty look at Outlaw and Emotiva.

    For cables look at Mono Price, Blue Jeans, and Signal cables online.

    As for subs, also look at Polks DSW line of subs, they are terrific.

    Have fun putting together the rest of your system. It will keep you entertained for many years to come.
    Sunfire TGP III PrePro, Sunfire Cinema Grand Signature 405wpc 5 ch. Amp, Rotel RCD-1072 CDP, Onkyo TA2600 Tape Deck, Pioneer Elite 47-A DVD, Sony 32" XBR TV, Polk RTA-8T Main Speakers, Boston VR-920 Center Channel, Boston PV-600 Subwoofer, Polk DSW 400 Subwoofer, Polk FXi-3 Surround Speakers

  12. #12

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    Thank you all for your responses. How much of a difference will an amplifier make? Most of them seem really pricey even used. Is there any amplifiers that are 200 wpc @ 8ohms that are in the $400-$500 range?

    Maybe it'll be a better idea to get a amp down the line later on? Coming from a person who is used to tv speakers/computer speakers, will I hear a world of difference with just the speakers itself and a receiver (no sub,no amp)?

  13. #13

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    Amps make a huge difference, but in your shoes, I'd try to find a good sub/receiver and worry about an amp later. I think after you get it all hooked up, you will know whether you want to go the extra mile or not. Some are completely content with receiver power, while others get the itch. You could easily spend $1500 on a decent pair - throwing an amp in the mix to that $1500 will mean a lesser sub/receiver and likely do more damage than good.


    I have to commend you for at least setting a healthy budget on your system. Most drop a lot of dough on speakers and then leave little for the rest - you at least allowed yourself to power your speakers relatively well and the benefits of that will be great once complete.
    Usher CP-6311, Shuguang S200MK, Shuguang S845MK, Pioneer BDP-51fd, Essence Audio HDACC, Douglas IC's, Douglas Alpha bi-wire SC's, Pangea/Douglas PC's, Epson 8100

  14. #14

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    Definitely check out accessoriesforless.com for your receiver purchase. Buy a refub and get something better than you could already afford. I would stay $900 for the receiver and $600 for the sub. You can raise each one by $100 or lower by $100 and be ok. Go with Denon, Marantz, Yamaha, Pioneer Elite or Onkyo. I prefer the first three in that order.

    You can go with separates such as a preamp and an amplifier. I would look at emotive for that. Even if you purchase am 150 x 5amplifier and a preamp that would be better than most of the receivers listed above.

    I prefer the HSU sub's they are amazing! Buy the best one that you can afford. It will be better than most lower priced out there and some higher priced too.

    Something else to consider. If you want to put most of your money into a sub make sure the receiver you buy has pre-outs. That will allow you to add more powerful amplifiers in the future. Also if you can swing something with Audyssey MultEQ XT as a minimum is speaker calibration. Yamaha has a proprietary brand that I hear is good too.

    my $0.02. Have fun with your decisions you have some big ones to make.
    Sharp LC-80uq17u
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    Monster HTS 3600
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    HSU Research VTF3-MK4 (Sub)
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  15. #15

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    Default Eureka !!!!

    Finally, a forum I could maybe have found my answer before even asking it !!!
    Hello All,
    I joined today, and so this is my first post...
    I have ordered 4 Polk Audio speakers for a Home Theater idea...
    This all centers around a Panasonic GT50 - 60" Plasma tv
    I ordered .....
    1 Polk Audio CS2 for the center
    2 of the Polk Audio Monitor 70 AM7025-B 3-Way Floorstanding Speaker's
    1 PSW505 Sub
    will most likely add 2 of the Polk Audio RM8 satellite speakers for the rear.
    The sub was delivered today, and I have been checking it out in the basement. To be honest, I found it a bit lacking, so I ran a split RCA cable and added the 12" sony sub I already have. The two together make nice bass
    and have been giving myself fits over how to power the set-up.
    I have looked at Denon, Marantz, Onkyo, Yamaha and Sony 5.2 receivers, but do not really find the wattage I want.
    So... after reading this thread, ???? find a lower powered control center and run separate amp's ??? I am not opposed to that idea, thought it myself in fact.
    Any helpful thoughts or ideas ? before I place another order ?
    Until then, my old JVC will be pushing things.
    Thanks Much for any help.
    Mindless....

  16. #16

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    Your choice of speakers are an easy load to drive and no offense, but are pretty much entry level, so why do you think you need high wattage amplification?

    You shouldn't judge your new sub until you have the entire system setup and dialed in.

    Look at the Pioneer Elite SC series AVR's as they are one of a few that put out close to their 2 channel rated power with all channels driven.
    'Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end."

  17. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by F1nut View Post
    Your choice of speakers are an easy load to drive and no offense, but are pretty much entry level, so why do you think you need high wattage amplification?
    .
    ...thanks for your valuable input, but it was not a request for your judgement on the equipment I chose to start with, also, the center channel will need a top of 200 watts, Recommended Amplifier Power 20-150 watts per channel and the 70's Recommended Amplifier Power 20-275 watts per channel ...check the ratings/specs... using an amp with more power will insure the speakers get clean signals without power clipping or distortion, and as long as the system is not ran up over 75% all should be safe, without any overheating problems...

    You shouldn't judge your new sub until you have the entire system setup and dialed in.
    .
    ..again, Thank you much for your guidance on my procedure, however, I found the PSW505 a bit weak from 90Hz up but decent below that range, where the sony sub has strength at 90 - 120Hz. I would guess that which ever receiver I choose will have a Sub output crossover frequency control, which I can choose to set a bit high ( 120Hz ) again, less heat in the receiver as the 120 - 90HZ signals wont be amplified in the receiver ...

    Look at the Pioneer Elite SC series AVR's as they are one of a few that put out close to their 2 channel rated power with all channels driven.
    .
    ..why would you suggest such low power rated amps ? the receivers you suggest are rated a bit low, Rated at 135 Watts x 7 channels (8 Ohms, 1kHz, 0.08% at 2Ch driven)... also, the receivers you directed me to are 7 and 9 channel, but the set-up I describe above indicates a 5.1 or 5.2 system, why the extra coin on 2 or 4 extra, unused channels ?
    Going by Polk's spec's on the items, 275 watts per channel with the center dialed down a bit
    ... a 5.1 or 5.2 with total around 1300 watts is not easy to find (so far)
    .
    .
    and, btw... Political Correctness would be to pick the turd up with a plastic baggy ;-)

  18. #18

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    Most receivers these days are 7.1 or 9.1, you don't have to use the extra channels if you don't want to. Receiver power usually decreases with the more speakers you have hooked up to it due to a shared power supply. That said, do not go by manufacturers recommended power....say 20-300 watts. Your speakers are easy to drive with most any midline receiver available. Would an additional amp make them better ? Sure, but then that's typical of any speaker hooked up to better power. Up to you if you want to spend the coin, but it's really not needed. Get a receiver with pre outs and try it out, if you still think you need more power you can always add an amp down the road. It's current that drives speakers, not watts.

    Please cruise the forum, many threads on power, receivers, amps, and how it all works. Search button is near the top on the right.

  19. #19

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    tonyb,
    Thanks for the word's. I have and will look around through the forums a bit more

  20. #20

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    ...thanks for your valuable input, but it was not a request for your judgement on the equipment I chose to start with,
    That wasn't a judgement, just the truth.

    Recommended Amplifier Power 20-150 watts per channel and the 70's Recommended Amplifier Power 20-275 watts per channel ...check the ratings/specs... using an amp with more power will insure the speakers get clean signals without power clipping or distortion, and as long as the system is not ran up over 75% all should be safe, without any overheating problems...
    I'm quite aware of the specs, but see below. Actually 50% is the general rule of thumb.

    ..why would you suggest such low power rated amps ? the receivers you suggest are rated a bit low, Rated at 135 Watts x 7 channels (8 Ohms, 1kHz, 0.08% at 2Ch driven)...
    Because I'm using a PIoneer Elite SC series AVR to drive speakers a bit more demanding than yours in a dedicated HT setup and the AVR is more than capable of handing the job.
    'Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end."

  21. #21

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    MindlessCorpse, just to be clear I was in no way criticizing or putting down your chioce of speakers.
    'Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end."

  22. #22

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    the treachery of it all.......
    I looked and looked at AVR's. Learned a few things, and then it seems I ignored those things ( Mindless....)
    It has probably been 10 years since I needed to purchase a receiver. Used to be that if you purchased a 200 watt per channel unit, you could hook a power meter in line, and see it read near 200 watts per channel..... not today. Today, 200 watts per channel on a 7.1 channel unit means... 200 watts / maybe, but only if you are running only one channel and a specific Hz sine wave generated signal. And to dress up the pile a bit, the manufracturer (sic) will label it like 200 Watts 7.1 channels... misleading the consumer ( insert / me ) to asses it as being a total of 1400 watts output... hahahaha.
    .... whatever...
    anyhow... I choose the Denon AVR-E400 to start wiring things to. Have to start somewhere, right ? This is a 7.2 channel rig. so new question... the floorstanding monitor 70's are bi-ampáble right ? so what about... (you know whats coming) if I were to run the upper right speaker leads to the top half of the right front speaker, the lower right leads to the bottom section of the speaker, and similar to the left front speaker ....
    Who else has tried this yet? Or would this just lead me back to the misleading wattage theory above ?
    Also, does anyone know what sort/kind of frequency/crossover control may or may not be in the speaker cabinet ?
    Also, as to the internals of the speaker cabinet, anyone know what gauge wire is in the cabinet ? Is it some chintzy 18 or 20 gauge wire? that I will need to replace ? or did Polk run a decent gauge of wire ?
    Any helpful information is appreciated.
    Also, to F1 , my Apologies if I came off rude earlier.. I might be getting a bit cranky in my old age... and shopping for stuff like HT bits tends to make one a bit... Defensive ?
    Last edited by MindlessCorpse; 10-18-2013 at 11:29 PM.

  23. #23

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    No, what you did is buy an entry level receiver with no pre outs to add an additional amplifier, totally opposite of the advice given Sir. Will it power what you have ? Sure....but bi-amping with a receiver is useless, and a waste. Plus you just limited yourself on future speaker purchases by not having pre-outs to add more power.

    Hook them up normal, leave the jumpers in place, and don't worry about the inside of the speaker. Worry more about the quality of the gear hooked up to them and the source.

    Sorry if that sounds "old and cranky"......but my AARP card says I have a right to be so. LOL

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    You really should listen to these guys. Your 1st big mistake was getting a receiver w/o preouts to add an amp down the line. I've told my tale of woe so many times people get tired of it. but here goes. My 1st foray into what I thought was a legitimate H/T system besides my old HTIB piece of crap was a Yamaha Rx-v665 rated 90 wpc.Me like you thinking hey 90w that's way more than I need I always wanted an avr that can do more then less.Well I tried them out w/ the volume knob lets say a tad cranked and the thing just clipped and went into protection mode.Thankfully it came back reset and all was well w/ the world except for my extreme disappointment. Long of it was my avr does have pre/outs which before coming here knew nothing of and added an Adcom w/ 200 wpc aside that can push pretty much speaker system.Before you jump ask and listen.I certainly learned my lesson thankfully not terminally but hard and shelling out another $300 for the Adcom but well worth it.Don't get involved w/ bi amping or even bi wiring for now concentrate on decent spkr cables your choice but should be at least 14/12 gauge brand of your choice. Lower the gauge thicker the wire less resistance.

  25. #25

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    does any one here actually answer a question, or give advice instead of trying to pick a system apart ? The above ? where did any one mention anything about looking for a audio control center with pre-outs? instead, it is mentioned after ??? then I am told to listen to something that wasnt said ?

  26. #26

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    Quote Originally Posted by MindlessCorpse View Post
    the treachery of it all.......
    I looked and looked at AVR's. Learned a few things, and then it seems I ignored those things ( Mindless....)
    It has probably been 10 years since I needed to purchase a receiver. Used to be that if you purchased a 200 watt per channel unit, you could hook a power meter in line, and see it read near 200 watts per channel..... not today. Today, 200 watts per channel on a 7.1 channel unit means... 200 watts / maybe, but only if you are running only one channel and a specific Hz sine wave generated signal...
    ...going downhill, with a backwind, and extra voltage !
    Living Room Evolved
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    Quote Originally Posted by MindlessCorpse View Post
    does any one here actually answer a question, or give advice instead of trying to pick a system apart ? The above ? where did any one mention anything about looking for a audio control center with pre-outs? instead, it is mentioned after ??? then I am told to listen to something that wasnt said ?

    Quote Originally Posted by F1nut View Post
    Look at the Pioneer Elite SC series AVR's as they are one of a few that put out close to their 2 channel rated power with all channels driven.
    Didn't mention pre-outs, but he did mention an AVR that will drive most speakers very well...and I'm sure most (if not all) Elite models have pre-outs.
    Things work out best for those who make the best of the way things work out.-John Wooden

  28. #28

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    Quote Originally Posted by nbrowser View Post
    ...going downhill, with a backwind, and extra voltage !
    I am curious on that, could you be a bit more specific on it ? The Denon ARV has discreet individual amplifiers, and the Monitor 70's have bi-amp inputs. I am just guessing here, but I would imagine once the bridges are removed, the speakers are divided into two sets in the same cabinet ?
    just trying to understand.
    Thanks
    Last edited by MindlessCorpse; 10-19-2013 at 11:43 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by MindlessCorpse View Post
    does any one here actually answer a question, or give advice instead of trying to pick a system apart ? The above ? where did any one mention anything about looking for a audio control center with pre-outs? instead, it is mentioned after ??? then I am told to listen to something that wasnt said ?
    What is the question? Also, is there a bonus for using ? in sentences?

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    Mindless, some lesser AVR makers have wild power ratings for their AVR amplifier sections, Some are so trumped up that, well for lack of a better term, the customer got ripped right off.
    Living Room Evolved
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    Polk Audio RTi A3 Black Rear
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    Canare 4S11 >Center
    Audioquest Evergreens on most of the analog connections
    Tannoy TS2.12 Sub
    Marantz CD6004
    Pro-Ject Debut Carbon Piano Black TT
    Parasound Zphono Phono Preamp
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