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  1. #31

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    Congrats on your new speakers. They will grow on you-play around with them & enjoy many years to come :)
    RANDY
    ~SDA2b Adcom gfa555 565pre 555t 600cd Pioneer PLa35d
    ~SDA1c Denon POA2200 Yamaha RX-V1(gold) HK25 AT-LP120tt-HT 4/rs Cs400i/cc Premier Acoustic PA-150 subwoofer
    ~Marantz 2252b 5025b 6300tt Tech-a4010s monitor 7b
    ~Yamaha cr2040 Advent2 Monitor 10a
    ~Rotel RV555 monitor 4 series 2 -office-
    ~Pioneer seQ404 2-4channel headphones

  2. #32

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    Congrats on your new found enjoyment factor. My story was exactly like yours being here for a few years not knowing what all these people were talking about but in a way that made one think if all these guys/gals think they are that special maybe there is something to this.I got mine last May started the mods and yes I'm still smiling every time I play them. Again very nice score. Lamp didn't make my list of no candles,kids,cats, or live plants anywhere near speakers.You might find the lamp on the floor from that time space vibration thing.Enjoy them.....

  3. #33

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    Congrats on the dedicated two channel room and on breaking your SDA cherry. I had my set up in a room almost identical to yours, if you ever have the opportunity to pick up a pair of CSR+ they are a perfect fit for your space.
    SDA CRS+4.1TL's/Modded SDA 1C's/Modded SDA SRS 3.1 TL's/Modded SDA SRS 2.3TL

  4. #34

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    Congrats on a nice score and a dedicated room! As someone above said, I'd skip vintage equipment for front end/power and go for a more modern design. The SDA's respond nicely to clean power, and lots of it.
    "Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills, polyswitches removed, Lg Solen inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR binding posts, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheets (3" strips) installed on back wall behind MW's & Tweeters, interior of cabinets sealed, AI-1 interface with 1000VA transformer

  5. #35

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    The Dells how nice!! I loved travelling from the Dells west and always stopped in Baraboo. The house on the rock is really kind of neat too!
    Enjoy your new speakers for awhile and remember to always have FUN. I honestly do not believe you can beat the performance vs dollar with 2a's 2b's
    You are doing well!!

    Quote Originally Posted by hochpt21 View Post
    Thanks for the tip. Opened them up a bit. A little less congestion.

    Wisconsin Dells, we really like it here.

  6. #36

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    Quote Originally Posted by NJPOLKER View Post
    The Dells how nice!! I loved travelling from the Dells west and always stopped in Baraboo. The house on the rock is really kind of neat too!
    Enjoy your new speakers for awhile and remember to always have FUN. I honestly do not believe you can beat the performance vs dollar with 2a's 2b's
    You are doing well!!
    Went to high school in Baraboo, I really do like the area.

    By the end of the evening yesterday, I had them about 4" from the back wall with no toe in, and about 2' from each side wall. The sound was the "biggest" of all the options I tried with the most bass, but a hair boomy.

    Looking forward to doing a lot of tweaking on these things.
    2-channel
    Sources: Pro-ject 2.9 wood Grado Gold cartridge; Squeezebox Duet; Oppo BDP-83
    Amps: PS Audio GCPH; PS Audio DLIII(Cullen mods IV); Parasound Halo P3; B & K Reference 200.2
    Speakers: Polk - LSi15's(db sub mod)


    HT
    Amps: Sony - STR-DG1000; Outlaw 200 Mono; Speakers: Polk - CS2, Monitor 70's, RC80i's; Video: Optoma HD20; FAVI HD-100


    Man Cave (In Progress)
    Sources: Sony PS-LX410, Denon 3910; Amps: Dared sl2000a, HK 3490, Simaudio Moon LP3; Speakers: Polk - SDA 2A's

  7. #37

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    Try 5 to 6 inches from the back wall moving them a 1/2 inch at a time. I also agree with the others, forget vintage get some newer higher end gear.
    'Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end."

  8. #38

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    Quote Originally Posted by F1nut View Post
    Try 5 to 6 inches from the back wall moving them a 1/2 inch at a time. I also agree with the others, forget vintage get some newer higher end gear.
    Good tip. I was moving them about 2-4 inches at a time.
    2-channel
    Sources: Pro-ject 2.9 wood Grado Gold cartridge; Squeezebox Duet; Oppo BDP-83
    Amps: PS Audio GCPH; PS Audio DLIII(Cullen mods IV); Parasound Halo P3; B & K Reference 200.2
    Speakers: Polk - LSi15's(db sub mod)


    HT
    Amps: Sony - STR-DG1000; Outlaw 200 Mono; Speakers: Polk - CS2, Monitor 70's, RC80i's; Video: Optoma HD20; FAVI HD-100


    Man Cave (In Progress)
    Sources: Sony PS-LX410, Denon 3910; Amps: Dared sl2000a, HK 3490, Simaudio Moon LP3; Speakers: Polk - SDA 2A's

  9. #39

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    The hair boomy should go away at 5-6 inches from the wall.

  10. #40

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    I too was caught up in reading about sda 1a's so much so i bought a pair for $600 two years ago, have them connected to a b&k

    pre-amp & amp, of course my wife said "cant you buy something new for that price"?. NO , will not give them up.

  11. #41

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    There are not too many 30 year old speakers that have held their value and owner devotion as the SDA's have done.
    HT Setup... Pioneer Elite SC-37, Polk Audio SDA-SRS 1.2TL's , Oppo BDP 93
    Two Channel... Carver Statement 450~1 Vacuum Tube Monoblocks, Dodd Mid-line Tube Linestage with Psvane 12Ax7 tubes, Pioneer Pdd 9Mk II SACD Player, Yamaha PX-3 Turntable with Sumiko BPS EvoIII, Polk Audio SDA-SRS 1.2TLs.


    "Everything we have fought for has been lost, and everything we fought against, we have become...."

  12. #42

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    Work has been a freak show the last week, but I am off tomorrow and plan to spend as much time with these as possible. Gonna finish a few acoustic panels as well.

    Any specific speaker cable that tends to match sda's better than others? I'm hoping for under $75 on those.
    2-channel
    Sources: Pro-ject 2.9 wood Grado Gold cartridge; Squeezebox Duet; Oppo BDP-83
    Amps: PS Audio GCPH; PS Audio DLIII(Cullen mods IV); Parasound Halo P3; B & K Reference 200.2
    Speakers: Polk - LSi15's(db sub mod)


    HT
    Amps: Sony - STR-DG1000; Outlaw 200 Mono; Speakers: Polk - CS2, Monitor 70's, RC80i's; Video: Optoma HD20; FAVI HD-100


    Man Cave (In Progress)
    Sources: Sony PS-LX410, Denon 3910; Amps: Dared sl2000a, HK 3490, Simaudio Moon LP3; Speakers: Polk - SDA 2A's

  13. #43

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    Congratts on those sda speakers, enjoy that one on one time with them today, I work days and my wife works the night shift three evenings a week, I really enjoy those one on one times when i have the house to myself and can kick back and relax to some good music, those times are pricelss and a great stress reliever, enjoy those fine speakers.

  14. #44

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    Quote Originally Posted by hochpt21 View Post
    Any specific speaker cable that tends to match sda's better than others?
    SDA 2A? I'm thinking 4-ohm nominal impedance. Like ANY lower-impedance speaker, they'll demand additional current compared to "typical" 8-ohm speakers. Therefore, speaker cable resistance/wire gauge is "twice" as critical as with 8-ohm speakers. Depending on length of cable, you'll want 12- or 10-guage speaker cable. 10 gauge is fairly enormous.

    Quote Originally Posted by hochpt21 View Post
    I'm hoping for under $75 on those.
    I'm not a "cable guy", and I don't believe in voodoo cable properties. Before Bryston started selling their own line of expensive "boutique" speaker cables, their engineer was recommending a particular type of coax cable. Depending on the brand of cable you buy, the center conductor is either 13 gauge, 11 gauge, or even bigger--but make sure it's COPPER wire, not copper-plated aluminum or steel.. You're looking for RG8U (the full-size RG8) and NOT RG8X which is a down-rated version. You'll have to strip the ends, and use your choice of speaker-cable pins or spade lugs or banana jacks to connect to amp and speaker.

    Examples: Carol C1180, Belden 9913. The Carol is 9.5 guage, double-shielded. I expect the Belden is similar if not identical.

    I learned about the coax cable about two decades after buying plain ol' ordinary 12-gauge Monster Cable.

    Either one should run something like a dollar or two per foot if you search around.
    Last edited by Schurkey; 11-07-2013 at 01:52 PM.

  15. #45

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    IME very good DIY cables can be made using Belden 1585 cat 5, braided per the Chris Ven Haus recipe. these are time consuming and you have to use the version with teflon (PTFE) insulation on the wires inside the outer jacket or they won't deliver the sound quality you deserve after all that work! The recipe can be found here:

    http://www.venhaus1.com/diycatfivecables.html


    There are also recipes for making ribbon cables using unwound copper foil conductors. Do an internet search - there are several different recipes.
    "Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills, polyswitches removed, Lg Solen inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR binding posts, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheets (3" strips) installed on back wall behind MW's & Tweeters, interior of cabinets sealed, AI-1 interface with 1000VA transformer

  16. #46

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    Drumminman,I use CAT-5 for my minor bdrm runs to the JBL bookies. I have a full box of the stuff from my alarm installing days and always did the solids and stripes deal to seperate the pairs. I however never braided so many sets of the wire to produce what the dude says is audiophile quality cable. This I could live with but right now still waiting on the delivery of the rings and their installation.Oh yeah, he shows the braided sets w/o any covering at all, I would tape the braids just in case that rainbow of colors peeked through somwhere.

  17. #47

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    Thanks for all the suggestions on the cables.

    I spent some time today, to further tweak the placement.

    Took Jesse's suggestion and moved them 1/2 inch at a time. In and out back and forth.

    The best placement I have found so far is 7" from the back wall and 23.5" from the side wall. Things really came together in that position.

    Between working on acoustic panels and adjusting placement, I didn't get to spend that much time simply enjoying, but the 20 min or so I did get were simply outstanding.

    I really like these speakers.
    2-channel
    Sources: Pro-ject 2.9 wood Grado Gold cartridge; Squeezebox Duet; Oppo BDP-83
    Amps: PS Audio GCPH; PS Audio DLIII(Cullen mods IV); Parasound Halo P3; B & K Reference 200.2
    Speakers: Polk - LSi15's(db sub mod)


    HT
    Amps: Sony - STR-DG1000; Outlaw 200 Mono; Speakers: Polk - CS2, Monitor 70's, RC80i's; Video: Optoma HD20; FAVI HD-100


    Man Cave (In Progress)
    Sources: Sony PS-LX410, Denon 3910; Amps: Dared sl2000a, HK 3490, Simaudio Moon LP3; Speakers: Polk - SDA 2A's

  18. #48

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    Quote Originally Posted by hochpt21 View Post
    Thanks for all the suggestions on the cables.

    I spent some time today, to further tweak the placement.

    Took Jesse's suggestion and moved them 1/2 inch at a time. In and out back and forth.

    The best placement I have found so far is 7" from the back wall and 23.5" from the side wall. Things really came together in that position.

    Between working on acoustic panels and adjusting placement, I didn't get to spend that much time simply enjoying, but the 20 min or so I did get were simply outstanding.

    I really like these speakers.
    The SDA sonic signature is quite addictive, enjoy!
    SDA CRS+4.1TL's/Modded SDA 1C's/Modded SDA SRS 3.1 TL's/Modded SDA SRS 2.3TL

  19. #49

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    Quote Originally Posted by Schurkey View Post
    SDA 2A? I'm thinking 4-ohm nominal impedance. Like ANY lower-impedance speaker, they'll demand additional current compared to "typical" 8-ohm speakers. Therefore, speaker cable resistance/wire gauge is "twice" as critical as with 8-ohm speakers. Depending on length of cable, you'll want 12- or 10-guage speaker cable. 10 gauge is fairly enormous.


    I'm not a "cable guy", and I don't believe in voodoo cable properties. Before Bryston started selling their own line of expensive "boutique" speaker cables, their engineer was recommending a particular type of coax cable. Depending on the brand of cable you buy, the center conductor is either 13 gauge, 11 gauge, or even bigger--but make sure it's COPPER wire, not copper-plated aluminum or steel.. You're looking for RG8U (the full-size RG8) and NOT RG8X which is a down-rated version. You'll have to strip the ends, and use your choice of speaker-cable pins or spade lugs or banana jacks to connect to amp and speaker.

    Examples: Carol C1180, Belden 9913. The Carol is 9.5 guage, double-shielded. I expect the Belden is similar if not identical.

    I learned about the coax cable about two decades after buying plain ol' ordinary 12-gauge Monster Cable.

    Either one should run something like a dollar or two per foot if you search around.
    Very interesting. So the center conductor is + and the outer shield - ?
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL
    Center: Custom Built http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/show...hannel-Project
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/show...rround-Project
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat & Hurricane Nuts.
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-350
    Other:
    SDA-CRS+
    Bose 901 Series II Continentals, Custom Rebuilt Equalizer
    www.dhsspeakerservice.com

  20. #50

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    Quote Originally Posted by westmassguy View Post
    Very interesting. So the center conductor is + and the outer shield - ?
    I made a decent pair of IC's using this design. It's not sota, but surprisingly good if using a good quality cable with a copper braided shield and solid copper center conductor.
    "Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills, polyswitches removed, Lg Solen inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR binding posts, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheets (3" strips) installed on back wall behind MW's & Tweeters, interior of cabinets sealed, AI-1 interface with 1000VA transformer

  21. #51

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    Quote Originally Posted by drumminman View Post
    I made a decent pair of IC's using this design. It's not sota, but surprisingly good if using a good quality cable with a copper braided shield and solid copper center conductor.
    Schurkey's talking about speaker cables though. That I could deal with, but for ICs, kind of stiff no?
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL
    Center: Custom Built http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/show...hannel-Project
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/show...rround-Project
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat & Hurricane Nuts.
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-350
    Other:
    SDA-CRS+
    Bose 901 Series II Continentals, Custom Rebuilt Equalizer
    www.dhsspeakerservice.com

  22. #52

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    I thought RG8U cable had 75 ohms resistance. Isn't the goal with speaker wire to avoid having any resistance in the wire. Also, with speaker wire I didn't think shielding was important. I have 12 gauge Monster speaker wires. I know it is low budget speaker wire but I can't imagine a length of RG8U cable being better. I can see how it might be OK for ICs where shielding is important.
    SDA 2BTL Sonicaps Mills resistors RDO-198s New gaskets H-nuts Erse inductors Crossover upgrades by westmassguy
    Adcom GTP-450 preamp
    Adcom GFA-555 amp Upgrades & speaker protection added by OldmanSRS
    Pioneer DV-610AV DVD/CD player
    SDA CRS+ Hidden away in the closet

  23. #53

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    Quote Originally Posted by TennMan View Post
    I thought RG8U cable had 75 ohms resistance. Isn't the goal with speaker wire to avoid having any resistance in the wire. Also, with speaker wire I didn't think shielding was important. I have 12 gauge Monster speaker wires. I know it is low budget speaker wire but I can't imagine a length of RG8U cable being better. I can see how it might be OK for ICs where shielding is important.
    Good point Ronnie. Don't want to steal the OPs thread though
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL
    Center: Custom Built http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/show...hannel-Project
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/show...rround-Project
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat & Hurricane Nuts.
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-350
    Other:
    SDA-CRS+
    Bose 901 Series II Continentals, Custom Rebuilt Equalizer
    www.dhsspeakerservice.com

  24. #54

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    I apologize for getting too far off topic.
    SDA 2BTL Sonicaps Mills resistors RDO-198s New gaskets H-nuts Erse inductors Crossover upgrades by westmassguy
    Adcom GTP-450 preamp
    Adcom GFA-555 amp Upgrades & speaker protection added by OldmanSRS
    Pioneer DV-610AV DVD/CD player
    SDA CRS+ Hidden away in the closet

  25. #55

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    Quote Originally Posted by TennMan View Post
    I apologize for getting too far off topic.
    We all go off on a tangent
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL
    Center: Custom Built http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/show...hannel-Project
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/show...rround-Project
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat & Hurricane Nuts.
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-350
    Other:
    SDA-CRS+
    Bose 901 Series II Continentals, Custom Rebuilt Equalizer
    www.dhsspeakerservice.com

  26. #56

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    Congrats on the new(to you) SDAs! You will probably fall in love with them much as I did back in 1985-6. Whenever you can pick up a pair of SDAs at a decent price, even if they require a little fixing-up, it's almost always worth it. Enjoy!

    Mark
    SDA SRS, SDA SRS1.2TL, SDA 2B, Soundcraftsmen Amplification (A5002s, MA5002s)

  27. #57

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    Quote Originally Posted by PolkieMan View Post
    Good for you nice clean look !
    My I suggest this
    http://www.standsandmounts.com/sanus...blackafab.aspx
    Thanks for the inspiration for a new stand...I ended up just pulling the trigger on this SANUS unit. I like the look of it.

    Name:  sanus.jpg
Views: 103
Size:  12.2 KB
    2-channel
    Sources: Pro-ject 2.9 wood Grado Gold cartridge; Squeezebox Duet; Oppo BDP-83
    Amps: PS Audio GCPH; PS Audio DLIII(Cullen mods IV); Parasound Halo P3; B & K Reference 200.2
    Speakers: Polk - LSi15's(db sub mod)


    HT
    Amps: Sony - STR-DG1000; Outlaw 200 Mono; Speakers: Polk - CS2, Monitor 70's, RC80i's; Video: Optoma HD20; FAVI HD-100


    Man Cave (In Progress)
    Sources: Sony PS-LX410, Denon 3910; Amps: Dared sl2000a, HK 3490, Simaudio Moon LP3; Speakers: Polk - SDA 2A's

  28. #58

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    Congrats Paul!! Enjoy the new rig! Tinker here, tinker there
    "Everything I ever did in my life worthwhile I caught hell for"

  29. #59

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    Here is a a fix for the speaker wire, Go to Walmart/Meijer and get a spool of 12 gauge copper speaker wire, may be labeled subwoofer. It works just fine, and does not hinder there performance. If I recall correctly it was under 20 bucks.
    Speakers:SDA2a, sub:Atlantic Technologies 172 PBM
    Pre:B&K PRO-10MC(2ch)
    Amps:Parasound HCA 1000a
    SourcesOppo DV-970HD, Xbox360, Kenwood KT-5300
    Cables:Philips/RCA/Monster

    Life's short, Listen to SDA's
    Life is short live Sui Juris
    Where did SOPA go?

  30. #60

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    Quote Originally Posted by Schurkey View Post
    SDA 2A? I'm thinking 4-ohm nominal impedance. Like ANY lower-impedance speaker, they'll demand additional current compared to "typical" 8-ohm speakers. Therefore, speaker cable resistance/wire gauge is "twice" as critical as with 8-ohm speakers. Depending on length of cable, you'll want 12- or 10-guage speaker cable. 10 gauge is fairly enormous.


    I'm not a "cable guy", and I don't believe in voodoo cable properties. Before Bryston started selling their own line of expensive "boutique" speaker cables, their engineer was recommending a particular type of coax cable. Depending on the brand of cable you buy, the center conductor is either 13 gauge, 11 gauge, or even bigger--but make sure it's COPPER wire, not copper-plated aluminum or steel.. You're looking for RG8U (the full-size RG8) and NOT RG8X which is a down-rated version. You'll have to strip the ends, and use your choice of speaker-cable pins or spade lugs or banana jacks to connect to amp and speaker.

    Examples: Carol C1180, Belden 9913. The Carol is 9.5 guage, double-shielded. I expect the Belden is similar if not identical.

    I learned about the coax cable about two decades after buying plain ol' ordinary 12-gauge Monster Cable.

    Either one should run something like a dollar or two per foot if you search around.
    Too bad you and some of the other posters in this thread didn't join the MIT cable demo program when it was running. I believe you would have become enlightened.
    'Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end."

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