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Thread: Sunfire Subs

  1. #1

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    Question Sunfire Subs

    Does any one here have a Sunfire subwoofer? I have three, 1 is out though, the other two were distorting so they could not be turned up that loud. Come to find out the screws for the drivers are all loose. Not just a quarter turn but on some 2 turns loose with one half way out. Was just curious to see if a Polkie has one if they could check the tightness of the screws. I can't imagine that they are meant to be only bottomed out when new. Thanks for any help.

  2. #2

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    I don't know that particular sub, but I have to believe that the driver is meant to be tightly coupled to the front baffle. If the screws are even a little loose it's gonna rattle and the driver will move around, partially preventing the proper excursion of the cone. That can't be good.

    If the cabinet doesn't have metal inserts for the screws and it's made of particle board it's difficult to really use much torque when you tighten them for fear of stripping the threads in the cabinet. Installing hurricane nuts and socket head cap screws would solve this if it's an issue.
    "Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills, polyswitches removed, Lg Solen inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR binding posts, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheets (3" strips) installed on back wall behind MW's & Tweeters, interior of cabinets sealed, AI-1 interface with 1000VA transformer

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    The mounting screws for the drivers are allen head machine screws. For the amp plate they are wood screws for the smaller subs and machine screws for the larger sub. The wood screws only needed a slight turn to tighten, but the machine screws were LOOSE! My subs sound new again. Was even thinking of replacing them. If I have three of these subs and the screws were loose on all of them, I can't help but think other people have this problem and have not figured out what is wrong. With a failure rate that seems to be high, you have to wonder how many of these shook them selves to failure because of loose screws.

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    Do you have metal t-nuts or some sort of metal receiver embedded in the wood that the screws go into? If not I would do what I suggested above. If you already have that go to the auto parts store and buy some blue thread locker. Squirt it onto the screw thread and then put them back and tighten as usual. They won't come loose again until you want to take them out.

    Caution: the blue allows you to disassemble; the red is for permanent assembly - do not use the red.
    "Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills, polyswitches removed, Lg Solen inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR binding posts, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheets (3" strips) installed on back wall behind MW's & Tweeters, interior of cabinets sealed, AI-1 interface with 1000VA transformer

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    If it is a metal screw in metal thread maybe consider loctite to prevent the screws from unscrewing in the future.
    This is not going to help if it is a metal screw in wood though.

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