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  1. #1

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    Default PSW1000 just died, I think…….

    I bought it new in April of 2006 and it looks like it just died. I noticed that I had no sound, yet the green light was on. I powered it down, unplugged the power, checked all the connections and hooked back up. Now i have no green light at all and the fuse is good.

    Wondering if it is worth finding a new amp for it or not. The drivers are fine and the cabinet is in perfect condition, no scratches or anything.

    Anyone need the drivers or anything out of it? Would be good to get some cash towards the purchase of a new one.

    If anyone has any tips or interested in parts please let me know.

    DJ

    modefan101@comcast.net

  2. #2

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    Assuming the driver is in fact still good. I would look into repairing the amp or buying a new plate amp from somewhere like partsexpress.com.
    --Gary--

  3. #3

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    GAry,
    What new amp plate would i be looking for to be the right one for the PSW1000?

  4. #4

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    Well....I can not recommend a specific plate because I have never heard or really seen that sub you have. But if it were me I would be looking for a similar wattage plate and one the same size (if possible) to mount in the cab after you remove the bad one.

    Wait and see what others have to say or recommend first.
    --Gary--

  5. #5

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    They used a 400W BASH amp if I recall correctly. Fixing BASH amps is not easy. If its a power supply issue, which I suspect it most likely is, that's not a simple linear power supply. I think its some kind of switching power supply. If you want to keep the aesthetics, find a plate amp of at least 400W that will fit in the space. You may need to get creative. A new 500W plate amp should run you around 275-350. Look at partsexpress.com as mentioned above. Measure your existing amp, and choose one that might fit. Its obviously possible to expand the sub opening, not reduce it as easily.

    Alternately, you can remove the amp, seal the opening with a cut to size board of 3/4 or 1" MDF, with binding posts through it to connect an external amp. That's not going to be visually pretty, but its on the rear of the sub anyway, and if you paint it black should hardly matter. A pro amp such as the Behringer A500 amp should do nicely. Let me know if you decide to go this latter route. I have an amp I'll let go for cheap.

    Or simply get yourself a new sub. Stuff breaks eventually. Sucks but true.

  6. #6

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    For that coin, your better off parting it out and buying another sub.

  7. #7

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    I'd find an electronics repair shop and bring the amp in, and get a quote for a repair
    HT/2channel:
    AVR: Yamaha RX-V 765
    Fronts: Polk RTiA3
    sub: Polk PSW110(will add 2x PSW 505)
    Center: CS13
    surrounds:Polk RTi4
    TV: samsung 40
    The real 2 Channel(work in progress):
    Pre:HK 3490
    Amp:Parasound 1200 MK II
    Sub:RBH 1010-SEP
    Speakers: Monitor 5 Jr. +
    most of my comments are passing on of info, im a noob, im just trying to help how i can, if im wrong or out of place to comment, dont hesitate to let me know :)

  8. #8

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    You are not going to be able to find a replacement amp from Polk.... My PSW650 (same gen as PSW1000) died a couple of years ago and they had no replacements available as well... Your only options is to:

    1. fix it (might be hard without a schematic)
    2. find a suitable replacement (most likely you will find that won't fit without extensive modification
    3. buy a new sub
    4. call Polk and let them know what happened. They might offer you a new sub at a discounted price. They offered me some options but shipping to Hawaii was too expensive to consider it...

    Good luck..

  9. #9

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    You might find this thread helpful: http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/show...a-PSW650-today

  10. #10

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    Update: sent the amp in for repair and it checked out OK, great guys there by the way. So it is now 1 of 2 things, either the drivers themselves or the volume control unit. I can not see it being the subs (but it could be), anyone have a spare volume control unit?
    They did offer me a GREAT deal on the DSW Pro 660, but if i can't find this unit I may try that before ordering a new.

    LMK,
    DJ

  11. #11

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    how could the amp be good if you had no green light?

  12. #12

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    That's why they said either the volume control unit (why there is no green light) or the subs. I'm sure if they say the amp is good, the amp is good.

  13. #13

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    hmm... perhaps the wire to the volume control/light had just come loose with all the vibration?

  14. #14

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    It was off when i took the amp out. I got excited and thought thats it, put it back on and i'll be fixed. I put it back on and no such luck, it was still dead.

  15. #15

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    speaker connections are all nice and tight too.

  16. #16

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    Fuse?
    HT/Main- Panny 50" G10 Plasma, Pioneer Elite VSX01 AVR, Panny DMP-BD60 BDP, Polk LS90 mains, CS350LS center, LS/fx side surrounds, LS50 surround backs, SVS 25-31PC+ sub, Harmony One

    Office Rig- Marantz 2252B, Sony CDP-C8ESD CDP, Kenwood KD2070 TT, Polk RTA 12B's

  17. #17

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    fuse is good too

  18. #18

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    i just don't see the subs themselves going bad, but i guess anything is possible.

  19. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by maddevildog View Post
    fuse is good too
    Have you switched it out anyway? They can look good and still be blown.
    HT/Main- Panny 50" G10 Plasma, Pioneer Elite VSX01 AVR, Panny DMP-BD60 BDP, Polk LS90 mains, CS350LS center, LS/fx side surrounds, LS50 surround backs, SVS 25-31PC+ sub, Harmony One

    Office Rig- Marantz 2252B, Sony CDP-C8ESD CDP, Kenwood KD2070 TT, Polk RTA 12B's

  20. #20

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    Have you verified the AC outlet is okay, and the power cord works? If those are okay you should be able to get inside with a multimeter and verify power is coming into the amp (don't shock yourself). Maybe the ON/OFF switch is bad. Also, I would guess there are wires with connectors, so continuity needs to be verified on those.

  21. #21

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    power cord yes, fuse no. good point though. i will try that when i get the amp back.

  22. #22

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    My PSW1000 had a similar issue, sent it in to Polk for inspection/repair and they said it's a bad output circuit board.....

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