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  1. #1

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    Default IEC Inlet Questions

    I'm looking into doing this mod to my Pio SC-05. I want something with set screws to install the wires. I read a post by F1 where he mentioned that "if the female end of the power cord is copper, then the Rhodium socket is the way to go as the copper would leach through the gold plating on the Gold socket and the fact that Rhodium conducts better than the gold plating."

    I found this, but wanted to get some more options and opinions and perhaps a cheaper alternative. I sort of expected them to run about ten bucks. Also opinions on Gold vs. Rhodium plating. "Furutech FI-10 IEC inlet is very easy to install, and does NOT require any soldering. The wires are simply screwed into the inlet. The Furutech Rhodium-plated FI-10R IEC Inlet sounds clean and nicely down-the-middle, where the gold plated model sounds a bit warmer."

    From Soniccraft's website: http://www.soniccraft.com/index.htm
    "The Furutech FI-10 is an excellent chassis mount IEC connector. The body comes in your choice of ny-glass or Teflon. The conductors are eutectic cast Brass contacts plated in Gold or Rhodium. As with most Furutech parts, they have been processed with Furutech's Super Cryogenic & Demagnetize treatment. The FI-10 is rated at 15 Amps. The FI-10 (G) is $27.35 each; FI-10 (R) is $34.99 each." Plus shipping

    They have archaic purchasing options. No online purchases. Placing an order may be done by phone, fax, E-mail, or snail mail. That's sooo 1990's.

    From Revolution Power's website: http://www.revolutionpower.com/
    FI-10G is $27.35
    FI-10R is $35
    Shipping $6.80 for one.

    Any recommendations on brands/models of IEC inlets are welcome. But I would prefer something with set screws for wire installation.
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    I read a post by F1 where he mentioned that "if the female end of the power cord is copper, then the Rhodium socket is the way to go as the copper would leach through the gold plating on the Gold socket and the fact that Rhodium conducts better than the gold plating."
    I'm not sure why I said the copper would leach through the gold plating. Sounds like something Furutech told me. However, it is true that Rhodium conducts better than the gold plating.

    They have archaic purchasing options. No online purchases. Placing an order may be done by phone, fax, E-mail, or snail mail. That's sooo 1990's.
    I made 2 friends by calling them for my orders. Something that will never happen placing an order online.
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  3. #3

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    Do you think the FI-10 would be a good choice for my application? And would you spend the extra $$ on the rhodium?

    Quote Originally Posted by F1nut View Post
    I made 2 friends by calling them for my orders. Something that will never happen placing an order online.
    Sure! How did your side of the conversation go???

    Hello, I'd like to place an order. What are you wearing? How much will the shipping be? You have a sexy voice. My address? Yes I can give you my address. Are going going to visit me? Do I want that shipped priority mail? Sure, I like things fast, but could you talk a little slower? Yeah, that's it. Oh...dead puppies, dead puppies, dead....oops.

    F1, you sly devil!! You've got game!
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    Aren't you glad I got you started on all this? LOL. Back when we were corresponding, it was like you had a fear of posting on the forum. Glad to see I'm no longer your one source as there are too many more knowledgeable than me on this site.

    I have no input on this because I've never done it. My Marantz 2216 is due for it though.
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  5. #5

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    Yep, I hate you most of all!
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    Quote Originally Posted by DSkip View Post
    Back when we were corresponding, it was like you had a fear of posting on the forum. Glad to see I'm no longer your one source
    I had to start posting. You blocked my email address.
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    I did buy the rhodium IEC's, but I prefer the version you solder.

    BTW, if you get Jeff on the phone, sit back for an hour long conversation and don't worry, he talks slow.
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    I added the Furetech FI10R to my TV so I could upgrade the power cord. Works great. I got it from The Cable Company.

    http://www.thecableco.com/Product/FI-10--R--IEC-Inlet

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    I highly recommend Oyide's "Inlet R" IEC. I installed one on my BAT VK-200 and it made a positive difference, especially in tone and bass.

    Chris Venhaus has it for $35.99. Go to this page and scrool all the way down: http://www.vhaudio.com/connectors-ac.html

    Not sure if Sonic Craft carries it or not??
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    If I do this, I'll need to drill two holes to anchor the inlet. Since I'll be drilling into metal and not plastic, I have one question. My experience with drilling in to metal has always been the same. When you first start to drill, the drill bit immediately starts to slide and you have to take a center punch and hammer to make an indention for the bit to sit in. Obviously I don't want to take a punch and hammer to a delicate piece of electronics. Since this is aluminum, will the bit dig in and hold it's place because of the soft metal or will it still want to slide?

    I have very little experience with soldering. Do you need a certain type of solder for electronics (is all solder the same) and do you use flux on the wire and the stem that the wire will attach to? Would set screws not give as good of a connection? Or will the screws slowly loosen up from the heat of the unit? The only time I've ever used a soldering gun was when I built one of those remote control car kits 20+ years ago. So my experience is extremely limited.
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    For drilling metal, a small pilot hole helps immensely.
    "Unwad those panties and have a good time man. We're all here to help each other, no matter how it might appear." DSkip
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    Quote Originally Posted by ZLTFUL View Post
    For drilling metal, a small pilot hole helps immensely.
    That and a well placed smack with a center punch to divot the metal where your putting a hole to be drilled helps even more to avoid the bit walking. You don't need to hit it like a madman, just a light tap or two with a hammer to make a slight divot, even just the slightest depression will seriously avoid drill bit walking. Plus....do this before you remove the cover so that the back panel is still stiff and not flexible.
    Last edited by nbrowser; 06-04-2014 at 10:00 AM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by F1nut View Post
    I'm not sure why I said the copper would leach through the gold plating. Sounds like something Furutech told me. However, it is true that Rhodium conducts better than the gold plating.
    This will be a first... Jesse I can't help but dispute this. I was told by a knowledgeable person in the field that the ONLY thing Rhodium brings to the table is that it is incredibly hard and should only be used where where and tear are concerned as it is not a good conductor of electricity. That is one reason I have avoided it and either went with silver,copper or gold. In conductivity Rhodium don't even make the top 12-13 in metals


    http://www.lunarpedia.org/index.php?...cal_Conductors

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    headrott's inlet is plated with platinum and palladium. I guess I should first ask this question, since I'm using an AVR and not a dedicated two channel system, will the results of this mod (inlet and power cable) still be noticeable? Everyone always talks about how a dedicated two channel system is more revealing, and how noticeable upgrades are. Do upgraded power cables and inlets yield positive results on an all-in-one AVR? Does a unit that doesn't draw as much power as a separate amp still benefit from an upgraded PC? I assume so if people do this mod to TVs. I guess anything benefits from cleaner power. The cord on the SC-05 is literally as small as the one on my VCR. I should do this mod to the VCR that I plan on sending nbrowser, I'm sure he'd appreciate it. So is this mod about cleaner power or more power? Or both?
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hermitism View Post
    headrott's inlet is plated with platinum and palladium. I guess I should first ask this question, since I'm using an AVR and not a dedicated two channel system, will the results of this mod (inlet and power cable) still be noticeable? Everyone always talks about how a dedicated two channel system is more revealing, and how noticeable upgrades are. Do upgraded power cables and inlets yield positive results on an all-in-one AVR? Does a unit that doesn't draw as much power as a separate amp still benefit from an upgraded PC? I assume so if people do this mod to TVs. I guess anything benefits from cleaner power. The cord on the SC-05 is literally as small as the one on my VCR. I should do this mod to the VCR that I plan on sending nbrowser, I'm sure he'd appreciate it. So is this mod about cleaner power or more power? Or both?
    In an Ice amp like that I would not think it would matter as much as a big amp with huge tranny. On my Carver TFM45 I took out the 18ga. power cord and replaced with IEC and 12ga. cord. What I found is that the power transformer seems to whine a lot less as if current is rushing in faster( at start up) with less resistance. Which on the face of it it is. Better cord cannot hurt but I wouldn't expect night and day difference myself.

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    You should get noticeable improvement because its basically an integrated. The PC is going to affect the pre/pro moreso than it likely will with the power amp. Your CDP is the BDP-51, a blu-ray player. You noticed big gains with that, didn't you? The Pre/Source are the two biggest impacts for PC's IME.
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    It would be perfect if I went with a Furutech inlet because I just found out that Doug carries their products and I just sent him one of my cables yesterday to have him modify it. Since we're "besties", he told me his secret ingredient to making cables. He uses magic fairy dust.

    Skip, I love that blu-ray player. It's not the fastest unit ever, but it sure puts out a nice picture and sound. If Pioneer does end up closing that part of their empire and only sticks with car audio, do you think they will still put out firmware updates for their units? I have to give them credit for updating their firmware regularly. Blu-ray players seem to have lots of issues with certain movies and discs and are always in need of updates. Although I've never had a single issue with mine.
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    Skip, I saw where you recently bought two Pangea AC-14SE cables. Do you notice a significant difference between those and the non-SE model?
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    Quote Originally Posted by DSkip View Post
    You should get noticeable improvement because its basically an integrated. The PC is going to affect the pre/pro moreso than it likely will with the power amp. Your CDP is the BDP-51, a blu-ray player. You noticed big gains with that, didn't you? The Pre/Source are the two biggest impacts for PC's IME.
    This has been my experience as well. I recently replaced the stock IEC inlet on the power supply of my media player and my pre-pro with the Furutech FI-10G. There's a small improvement in sound quality in both components, but the improvement is more dramatic with the source than the pre-pro.

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    Quote Originally Posted by pitdogg2 View Post
    This will be a first... Jesse I can't help but dispute this. I was told by a knowledgeable person in the field that the ONLY thing Rhodium brings to the table is that it is incredibly hard and should only be used where where and tear are concerned as it is not a good conductor of electricity. That is one reason I have avoided it and either went with silver,copper or gold. In conductivity Rhodium don't even make the top 12-13 in metals


    http://www.lunarpedia.org/index.php?...cal_Conductors
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    First: It's Gold plating on base Copper that has problems. There is an intermediate plating step. If they don't do it correctly, they will have the same problem that computer memory chip connectors had a decade ago.

    Second: Gold is a great contact for low voltage, low current circuits. But it's not very good for high voltage, high current circuits. Also if you ever plug in Gold plated contacts while the power amp is turned on, you will blow the Gold plating off the connector.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hermitism View Post
    Skip, I saw where you recently bought two Pangea AC-14SE cables. Do you notice a significant difference between those and the non-SE model?
    Yes on my preamp. No on the power amps, even compared to generic PC's. The SE added holographic imaging where the non-SE was very flat and two dimensional. Rather lifeless actually when compared to the SE. Soundstage was also more recessed with the standard version.
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    If I go with a solder version, it looks like this might be the version I need. They don't have a model number, they are just listed as "Furutech Inlet".

    http://www.furutech.com/2013/01/29/899/

    $21.59 rhodium
    $12.50 gold

    Can someone explain to me the purpose of the holes in the tabs that you are going to be soldering the wires to. Are you supposed to pass the wire through the holes before soldering?
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    Correct about passing the wires through the holes before soldering.

    I still recommend getting the Oyaide "Inlet R" though. I have used both Furutech and Oyaide and the Oyaide is definately better, IMO. I am not saying the Furutech is bad by any means, however.
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    Thanks headrott, can you tell I'm a little out of my comfort zone on this one. Even with as little soldering experience as I have, I don't think I can screw up that part. Do you think someone with untrained ears like me will still be able to distinguish between inlet models/brands?

    A couple years after I bought my PSW125, the amp went out. Polk changed the amps that they were using and the new one they sent me uses what I think is called a C7 connection. So I still have the original cable to the old amp that I can use with the correct connection, so I won't be without a cable while I shop around for a good cable. Radio Shack carries an inexpensive nibbler that should suffice for this one time need. I've never used one before and dont have any sheet metal to practice on. I'll take step by step pictures so you guys can make fun of my cutting and solder jobs. Duct tape fixes everything, right?
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hermitism View Post
    I've never used one before and dont have any sheet metal to practice on. I'll take step by step pictures so you guys can make fun of my cutting and solder jobs. Duct tape fixes everything, right?
    No sheet metal to practice on ? uhm a piece or two at the local junkyard can't be too hard to scare up for practice materials. Highly recommended and if you bugger up a few holes in practice, the final product will be good cause we all learn from mistakes.
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    Tough to say if you will hear a difference between IEC inlets. I will say the differences in them are audibly "subtle" but distinguishable. Soldering the wires to the IEC inlet is fairly easy. Hell, just duct tape the wires to the blades. You don't even need to mess with soldering!

    Seriously, for solder type most Polkies highly recommend Cardas Quadeutectic. Excellent stuff and very "easy" to use.

    If you are not sure if you will hear a difference, just go with the IEC inlet that will hold the power cable best and be of good quality. I probably wouldn't go too crazy with it then. You can upgrade if/when you get a seperate amp/pre-amp.
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    Quote Originally Posted by nbrowser View Post
    No sheet metal to practice on ? uhm a piece or two at the local junkyard can't be too hard to scare up for practice materials. Highly recommended and if you bugger up a few holes in practice, the final product will be good cause we all learn from mistakes.
    Excellent idea! I think you can sense I'm not overly confident about cutting a hole in a perfectly good working unit.

    Quote Originally Posted by headrott View Post
    Seriously, for solder type most Polkies highly recommend Cardas Quadeutectic. Excellent stuff and very "easy" to use.
    Exactly the kind of info I need!
    Pioneer Elite SC-05 | Pioneer BDP-51FD | Pangea: AC-9SE, AC-14 PC's
    Monster PowerCenter HTS 5000 | Sony Bravia KDL-46S4100 | Dish HDTV
    Polk: RTi8 Towers, CSi5 Center, F/Xi3 Surrounds, CSi3 Single Rear | Polk Subs: PSW125-12", PSW303-8"
    Douglas Connection: Furez DCF124BW SC's | AudioQuest Chocolate HDMI | Monster: M850 SW-12, ULT I1000FO-4 IC's
    Acoustic Treatments OC703 | Dynamat: Components, Baskets

  29. #29

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    CARDAS Quad Eutectic Solder, so I found ten foot pieces for sale on eBay for $4.50/free shipping. That will last me a lifetime, so I see no need to buy a spool full. So this stuff has a resin core flux incorporated into the solder? So no prep work or flux needed before hand? Just melt it with a solder iron and your good?
    Pioneer Elite SC-05 | Pioneer BDP-51FD | Pangea: AC-9SE, AC-14 PC's
    Monster PowerCenter HTS 5000 | Sony Bravia KDL-46S4100 | Dish HDTV
    Polk: RTi8 Towers, CSi5 Center, F/Xi3 Surrounds, CSi3 Single Rear | Polk Subs: PSW125-12", PSW303-8"
    Douglas Connection: Furez DCF124BW SC's | AudioQuest Chocolate HDMI | Monster: M850 SW-12, ULT I1000FO-4 IC's
    Acoustic Treatments OC703 | Dynamat: Components, Baskets

  30. #30

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hermitism View Post
    CARDAS Quad Eutectic Solder, so I found ten foot pieces for sale on eBay for $4.50/free shipping. That will last me a lifetime, so I see no need to buy a spool full. So this stuff has a resin core flux incorporated into the solder? So no prep work or flux needed before hand? Just melt it with a solder iron and your good?
    Don't buy it. I'll send you some when I send your cable back. Cardas Quad is really the best, and is the only solder I use.
    Sunfire Theater Grand IV
    Sunfire Cinema Grand Signature
    SRS 2.1TL
    SDA 2BTL's
    CSiA6
    FXiA4
    FXiA6
    SDA 2A's
    Monitor 10A's

    http://www.douglasconnection.com

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